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Criots is a tiny grand cru, just one and a half hectares, making Fontaine-Gagnard one of the largest owners, with one third of a hectare. The south-facing slope, with poor limestone soils, yields a wine with superb power and tension. Yet in spite of the emphatic power, the wine is so balanced, and understated.
The 2020 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, matured in around 40% new oak, has quite an intense bouquet: orange pith, grilled hazelnut and walnut, just a hint of spice. It will require time for the wood to fully integrate. The palate is rounded in texture with light tropical notes, passion fruit and pineapple counterbalanced by a fine line of acidity. Just misses a little tension on the finish, but otherwise this is very fine.
Critic score 94/100
Maturity Young 2028 - 2039
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Critic score 90/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2032
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