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This is arguably the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines even more venerable. This year the grapes are totally destemmed and there is a natural concentration and complexity from the old vines offering small, tight bunches. The wine has a beautiful, sinewy structure with accents of cherry blossom and detailed hedgerow fruit on the finish. Refreshing and very fine.
The 2023 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has a delineated and focused bouquet with a discrete floral element. Its pure red fruit notes gain intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and nicely poised with grainy tannins, gentle grip and a slight lactic note toward the finish that will be subsumed. Very fine.
From two plots, one high up on very white soil. Medium deep ruby, with quite an austere nose, not quite giving yet. Elevage is bringing the 2023s on brilliantly, thinks Marc-Olivier, but Clos des Chênes remains a tough beast, albeit with a touch of velvet on the bones and a long finish. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.
Maturity Young 2025 - 2032
Prices shown in bond
Critic score 90/100
Maturity Young 2025 - 2033
Maturity Young 2027 - 2037
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