2023 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays

2023 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays

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Jacques Devauge has settled in and is now really hitting his stride in this magnificent Clos des Lambrays. It has depth, dimension, texture, light and shade. Its many layers build in the palate. Jacques has achieved this nuanced character through vinifying each parcel separately.

Critic score
96.75/100 info

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Wine details

  • Region & country
    Clos-des-Lambrays (Grand Cru), Morey-St-Denis, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France
  • Grape
    Pinot Noir
  • Maturity
    Young 2028 - 2044info
  • Colour
    Red
  • Sweetness
    Dry
  • Style
    Still
  • Unit Volume
    Bottle (75cl.)
  • Classification
    Grand Cru

Tasting notes

Eleven different cuvées combine to form the 2023 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, with every square meter contributing to the blend, to quote Jacques Devauges verbatim (as an aside, this is the same philosophy at Cheval Blanc, which is also on LVMH's mantelpiece). This vintage includes 80% whole bunch and was raised in 60% new oak. The bouquet is very expressive with ebullient red berry fruit, tobacco, forest floor and subtle aromas of ceps. The palate is medium-bodied with fine yet firm tannins that lend backbone and gentle grip. This fans out with style on the sapid finish with a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The 2023 ranks alongside the 2022 and may even surpass it. Prices have skyrocketed in recent years and priced out many Lambrays-lovers, but one cannot deny the quality.

Neal Martin, vinous.com (January 2025)
(96—98)/100

The 11 plots were made separately and reunited just before the bottling. The terroir delimited in 1365 rests whole, with nothing declassified. Intense black purple with some glycerol legs. Sweetly dark fruit with the whole bunches hidden. A multitude of different red fruit notes speed across the palate and then the stems do show a little, gracefully, at the finish, along with some oak. As with La Richemone one can see that this vintage is not as concentrated as the previous one, but the wine has been beautifully made with rare distinction. Fine tannins to finish. Drink from 2033-2045. Tasted Nov 2024.

Jasper Morris (January 2025)
95—98/100

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