2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs, Michel Lafarge

2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs, Michel Lafarge

Cellar Circle Exclusive

This tiny monopole vineyard is just 0.57 hectares, and along with the Clos des Chênes, is the jewel in the Lafarge crown. They have bottled it separately since 1985, and it has since become their most sought-after release. The grapes are destemmed by hand, such is the reverence in which the family hold this site: in their eyes, a Grand Cru. It has a texture that can only be described as lacy: so fine, so complex, intricate, and detailed. Intense purity and length to this wine, there is a seriousness and gravitas that shows through on the dark cherry fruit laced with a mineral accent. Extremely fine.

Critic score
93.5/100 info

This wine is now sold out. Please get in touch with your advisor or one of our team on [email protected] or 01473 313 300 for more information or guidance on an alternative.

Wine details

  • Region & country
    France
  • Grape
    Pinot Noir
  • Maturity
    Young 2027 - 2046info
  • Colour
    Red
  • Sweetness
    Dry
  • Style
    Still
  • Unit Volume
    Bottle (75cl.)
  • Classification
    Premier Cru

Tasting notes

The 2023 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru underwent a later malo and so had been racked just a fortnight before my visit. Despite that, it has an outstanding bouquet of beautifully defined blackcurrant and raspberry fruit laced with iris flowers. The palate was still a bit gassy, yet the fruit is very pure with a hint of licorice toward the finish. Great potential but I suspect it will require longer in bottle than Lafarge's other Premier Crus.

Neal Martin, vinous.com (January 2025)
(93—95)/100

Just racked this week. The Lafarges decided against their hand destemming in 2023 because there wasn’t time and the grapes were warm. A solid dark centre with crimson rim. The nose is slightly muddled after racking. I do like the structured aftertaste, less tannic than Clos des Chênes but beautifully interweaving with the sumptuous fruit and very long. Drink from 2033-2044. Tasted Dec 2024.

Jasper Morris (January 2025)
92—94/100

Also from this producer

Pricing
info