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The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The 2022 has a fragrant and salty dynamism. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a top contender for promotion to premier cru status.
An intense ruby purple. More concentration of the intense raspberry strawberry fruit. The Grasses Têtes is much tighter on the palate with a certain tannic austerity but such a concentration of fruit. Strawberry and raspberry together, definitely both dense and structured, will hold back until June before bottling. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: November 2023.
The 2022 Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes has one of the more mineral/rocky bouquets engendering a Marsannay with great transparency. The medium-bodied palate is taut and linear with a crisp entry. It is quite an uncompromising wine with a slightly tapered, austere finish. I suspect it will fill out during the remaining élevage.
Critic score 89.25/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2035
Prices shown in bond
Critic score 91/100
Maturity Ready 2025 - 2036
Critic score 93/100
Maturity Young 2027 - 2040
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