2015 Château d'Issan, Cru Classé Margaux

The 2015 d'Issan is a striking Margaux. Next to so many other wines of the appellation that are much more opulent, the d'Issan presents a much more feral, savory profile. Smoke, tobacco, leather, cedar, white pepper and game are some of the signatures. Deep, powerful and endowed with a real sense of explosive energy, the 2015 is bursting at the seams with personality. D'Issan is less showy and opulent than most Margauxs and yet it is also super-distinctive. The 2015 is perhaps a bit rustic and eccentric, but those are small quibbles at this level. The blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, aging 50% new oak. Eric Boissenot is the consultant. Tasted three times.

The 2015 Château d'Issan is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot cropped at 40 hl/ha, representing 55% of the production. Emmanuel Cruse told me how they suffered less rain on the weekend of 12 and 13 September, 32 millimeters being less than in the northern Médoc. Cropped between 21 September and 6 October, it has a very pure and sensual bouquet that takes time to open up, eventually offering black cherries and blueberry, a marine influence tucked in just behind (a common thread throughout various vintages of d'Issan). The palate is underpinned by extraordinarily fine tannin that gently caress the mouth. The 55% new oak is beautifully embroidered throughout this wine from start to finish, which displays energy, real frisson in the mouth. This may well turn out to be one of the greatest Château d'Issan made in the modern era. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Only medium crimson. Only medium intensity of aroma but lots of vivacity underneath. Very 'new-fashioned', as the Joanne brothers put it. Racy and full of real charm and energy. Lots behind this. This builds towards the end in a way that good burgundy does. Chapeau!

This is solid and muscular Issan with round and powerful tannins. Full and long. Impressively structured.