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0.63ha running from bottom to top on the south side. Nice juicy fruit. Silky tannins, with real finesse and balance. Very sensuous and appealing, with surprising weight to the palate, and nice length.

This is an exceptionally pretty Chambolle-Musigny, offering up wild strawberry and blueberry notes. If you like the sweet aromatic fruit of 100% whole-bunch winemaking, this is the wine you’re looking for. Fine, silky tannins are extremely well-expressed on the poised finish.

These vines are, almost unbelievably, 104 years old. Claudie has just 0.37 hectares in this premier cru, and admits that keeping it with the original vines is more sentimental than business-savvy, since the yields they produce are so low. But it’s wrapped up in her family history, and she just loves it too much to uproot it. Instead she works the tiny parcel by horse and hand, and makes from its fruit a floral and intense wine with surprisingly silky tannins that has the substance and poise to age with grace.

Claudie’s father, in his days of running a plant nursery with access to a huge range of plant material, planted seven different clones of Pinot Noir in this 2.5 hectare site. Now at 45 years old, this diversity, twinned with the quality of vineyard husbandry, means the vineyard is thriving. The different clones call for pruning and harvesting at different times, but it’s an effort worth making, as the wine is texturally sophisticated, juicy, and full of Pinot nuance. So balanced and extremely drinkable.

Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by premiers crus on well-draining soil. It is so red-fruited and floral - bursting with grenadine and red currant aromas - that you’d be forgiven for thinking it probably has a high proportion of whole bunch fruit. But, in fact, David says only 3-5% whole bunches went into the tank. The floral character is a natural expression of the site, and makes it a delicious introduction to the village for first-timers.

Charles Ballot is making some of the greatest Chardonnays in Burgundy these days, and his Bourgogne Blanc is an excellent place to get a taste of the style on offer at this address. 80% of the fruit is sourced from his home village of Meursault, with the balance coming from Puligny-Montrachet.

Fragile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. It has bursting red currants and a firm blended spice note. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, and would be elevated further still if served with food.

En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. At 300m altitude, with very little topsoil, Bruno’s two parcels (one of which touches Chevalier-Montrachet) make a magnificent wine: concentrated, opulent, mineral and energetic, with a precision you only find in Chardonnay grown on limestone.

This is a blend of grapes from Corton-Bressandes and Corton-Chaumes. It always displays an abundance of white fruit aromas, complemented by the little hint of vanilla and spice from the oak.

This is made in the old fashioned method, with 12 hours in a vertical whole bunch press, once the skins have been split open. When we tasted it still hadn’t seen sulphur. Very fresh pears and energetic.

Corton Blanc is rarely seen, indeed the de Nicolay family have the only Chardonnay vines planted in the clay-rich Bressandes grand cru, which makes up 90% of the blend here. It’s a weighty, richly textured white, with admirable precision and balance. This is a rare treat you should snap up if you have the chance.

This special cuvée comes from the oldest vines in Faiveley’s Clos de Bèze holding, and was first produced in 2011. The name is an homage to the family’s connection with the artist, Rodin, and the cuvée is only ever produced in tiny quantities. Powerful, deep, and dramatic. This will reward the patient.

Faiveley are the largest landowner in this fêted corner of Chambertin, with three parcels to their name. It is one of the consistently most complex wines in their range, and offers staggering ageing potential. In 2022, aromas of rose petal and cranberries combine, leading to gorgeously silky tannins, a fresh line of acidity driving through to a spicy finish.

This monopole grand cru in the heart of Vosne-Romanée between two Domaine de la Romanée-Conti monopoles - La Tâche and La Romanée-Conti - is the flagship wine of the estate. It is like a basket full of freshly picked strawberries and raspberries. The palate, although it displays this gorgeous summer fruit element, is almost so much more complex than that, with silky, refined tannins, subtle smoky notes and savoury acidity. Extraordinary length, extraordinary wine.

This has the seductive nose of sweet red berry and cherry fruit and floral lift we love in Volnay. The site’s generous top soil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay premiers crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a gorgeous, luscious, sappy texture on the palate. Cellar for a few years, then don’t hold back.

This is a fairly recent addition to Maxime’s portfolio. As with all his wines it shows depth of fruit and suave tannins, with a long finish, tempered by the freshness of the vintage.

The Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is proving a popular spot for growers in Vosne who are looking for wines that are a little more forward, accessible, and with vibrant freshness, as is the case in this excellent example.

“Bousselots” means “little bumps”, but this premier cru’s clay-rich soils make for a rounded and approachable Nuits-Saint-Georges. The 2017 is juicy and saline, with silky tannins, and really fine acidity on the finish.

At the bottom of the slope of grand cru Chapelle-Chambertin.Notes of kirsch, fresh dark cherries, and baked earth. Very rich and intense, there’s just enough freshness to keep it lifted and mouthwatering.

A Lay & Wheeler favourite for years, from up to 90 year old vines, half of which are next to Lavaux in the combe, and another fifteen parcels. Fragrant, long, and very complex.

This is a brilliant 2021: pure, concentrated, and energetic. It has a beautiful nose of fresh rose petal, cherry and plum combining. An ample body, and smooth, supple tannins with just a little grip at the back. The depth of fruit and length of finish are equally impressive. Bravo.

The wine for which the domaine is perhaps best known (this, or their Richebourg!). Deep and dark and herbal, with almost a linseed oil character. Such purity here, but certainly feel the tannins and intensity. Lovely berry fruit, very long, energetic and dense. Amplitude but comes back together on the finish.

Clos St Marc is a single plot within the larger Vergers vineyard where Jean-Marc’s 100+ year old vines make this a powerful, impressive Chassagne. There is a distinct step up in the density of fruit here. The old vines are very low yielding and the resulting wine is concentrated, precise, and graceful.

This is from three of the village’s best communal sites: Les Pierres (94-year-old vines), Mazures (40+), and Houillères (30+). The younger vines give lift, elegance and a vibrant drive, while the older vines give depth and power. It shows a light lemon scent on the nose, with a fresh, linear drive of acidity on the palate.

This is a steep stony limestone site, and the wine is richly intense, with a long, fine finish. It has all the structure and complexity to evolve over the years, taking on weight in bottle and further nuance with age.

Marcel believes this is his best vineyard. It is a blend of older and younger vines on limestone marl soils and makes a wine with silky ripeness and plenty of freshness. It could easily come from its grander and more expensive neighbour, Pouilly-Fuissé. In 2021 it has an intensely concentrated and juicy stone fruit core which gives the wine delicious grip and bite and a long, lingering finish.

Blagny sits high up, above the heart of the Meursault commune. This altitude brings a focused freshness to the wines. It has notes of honeydew melon, with a richly mineral seashell note - not unlike Chablis - on the nose. The soil is very white limestone up here, and this makes for a scintillating palate. It feels straighter than the Grands Charrons, in many ways, more like a Puligny in profile than a Meursault.

This vineyard is a monopole of the estate which has been in the hands of the family since 1860. Where the Brûlées is firm and structured, Clos de Réas is more lithe, mineral and supple, with a sophisticated flavour palette of blood oranges, crushed raspberries, ripe damson and fresh rosemary. It is both luxurious and refined.

This is the only parcel the domaine bottles separately from the other Gevrey village parcels. That is thanks to its quite incredible situation, and the consistency of quality it delivers every year. It is sandwiched just between grands crus Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. It’s almost unbelievable it’s only a village lieu-dit. The Rossignol-Trapet vines lie right alongside the Joseph Roty Charmes Vieilles Vignes parcel, but the soil is more like Griotte-Chambertin just to the north. There is just a hint of black fruit depth combined with the red fruit freshness, something reminiscent of cassis and cherries. The tannins are well-formed, offering structure and frame with a slight broodiness, but not imposing too heavily on the fruit. Very fine.

A premier cru that often punches with the Grands Crus, Mont de Milieu is a charming, intense, powerful Chardonnay in 2016. There's notes of oyster shell and gun flint, as well as orange peel and spice. Delicious and will only get better.

One of the best terroirs among Morey’s premiers crus, this comes from 40-50 year old vines. Wild and stony, there are notes of almond kernels and fresh berries. There is such focus here, and a long and savoury finish. Brilliant, and so well priced.

This is drawn from a couple of parcels on the south side of the commune towards Fixin and Gevrey-Chambertin. 35% whole-bunch gives the fruit a bright, crystalline, sapid quality, reminiscent of cranberries and pomegranates. There is some brambly, structural tannins typical of the village on display.

This really works in 2022. The fully destemmed fruit has been given 25% new oak, and the balance is just right. It is sweetly scented, with pliant tannins and a pretty and delicate finish.

This is a very special village lieu-dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. Most people who own vines here bottle it separately, as its character is of such high quality, it approaches premier cru complexity. This has Gevrey’s classical sour cherry density, and a sweet hint of dark cherry fruit on the palate. The fruit was entirely destemmed for this cuvée, and the body of the wine is juicy and fresh. Excellent.

This comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It is so precise and lengthy, with a lively, spicy, cherry red fruit that seems to go far beyond what a village usually delivers. It’s one of Mark’s favourites in the cellar, and we can see why. A small (25%), well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. This is fantastic in 2021.

Vinified without sulphur, using as little on bottling as possible. This is a remarkably pure wine, which shows the very best of Pinot Noir. Juicy, long and textured.

Vaudésir is shaped like an amphitheatre and catches the sun. As a result, the fruit ripens early here, and it needs to be picked at just the right time. This 2022 is a real gear-change in the cellar: it shows the hallmarks of a truly great terroir. Its fine-boned energy is so pretty in youth and will maintain its striking beauty with age. Aromatically complex, zingy and detailed.

Three parcels are blended here, creating a complex and crystalline wine. It has the honour of hosting the domaine’s oldest vines, which were planted in 1936. These add beautiful freshness along with density of fruit. It is one of the most backward in the cellar when tasting at this early stage, but the density and precision it already shows promises a very exciting future. You are in no doubt of the greatness of this wine when tasting.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and it is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site with over four hectares. Lots of their vines are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. The wine is saturated in white peach, oyster brine, and limestone minerality. It is statuesque yet understated. This is truly grand cru in every sense.

Preuses tends to be the most mineral and chalky or the grand cru lieux-dits, and the Fèvre example is quintessential. It is tight and powerful, with wonderful depth on the nose. The palate has pronounced energy and precision, and there is a long, tingling line of mineral freshness that stretches right down the finish. It encapsulates the purity and finesse of the 2022 vintage.

2019 was the final vintage of Nicolas’ much loved Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes. 2020 sees the introduction of this new cuvée, a marked step up in complexity and length, and still an absolute bargain. It’s a brilliant debut, with juicy, bright, smooth fruit, a touch of sweetness to the tannins, and a long, fresh finish.

This was a high point to finish on with Nicolas. It was elegant, smoky, savoury, and spicy with such intense density, power and concentration in the fruit. It is full-bodied with a great acidity and voluminous tannins. A cut-above.

Lovely nose of fragrant wild red fruit and rose petal, then velvety and rich with cherry, plum and wild berry fruit flavours. Fresh and complex with lots of depth. Great energy and concentration in the finish.

Nicolas has the oldest vines in this highly-rated premier cru. They were planted in 1904, and we learned this year that their days are numbered. Nicolas plans to uproot them within two years because the old vines have become so low-yielding (just 16 hl/ha in 2020). The wine has highly concentrated tannins and a particularly perfumed aromatic fruit.

From 50 year old vines. Nice nose, slightly herby and garrigue, ⅔ whole bunch. There’s depth here, so much volume, too. Also violets, with really nice finesse, and mineral, too with great energy. Very fine and complex.

This monopole vineyard spans over seven hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. In 2022 it steals the show, with its plush fruit, and beautifully rounded tannins. Excellent length that plays with fruit and spice gives it a persuasive power. You can order in magnum format until 2 January 2024.

Monthélie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. The Lafon example is one of its leading lights. Indeed, the red wines at Lafon have come on a great deal in recent years, and this is one of the most affordable entry points to the domaine. Juicy, crunchy, and elegant Côte de Beaune Pinot at its finest.

Guy buys these grapes from a friend in the La Garonne climat. There’s an attractive floral note on the nose and a wonderful fresh, finesse to the fruit. The finish is long and saline leaving you reaching for another sip.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. This is perfectly balanced with silky tannins and delicious salinity in the finish. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. At 13.5% it is perfectly balanced. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

Jean-Claude combines classic Beaujolais vinification of carbonic maceration with the freshness derived from Gamay grown on granitic soils to make this fresh, bright, juicy, red cherry scented wine, that is quite simply, delicious.

This vineyard is tucked up at the top of the village on the border with Auxey-Duresses. The cooler hilltop position helps the wine retain a terrific mineral drive. Its 50 year old vines produce concentrated fruit, that when ripened to perfection, as in 2020, make for a fleshy, full, savoury wine with lots of impact.

This is a blend of three terroirs and is vinified almost exclusively in oak, with just a fraction of it new. It has a gorgeously sumptuous, ripe fruit core. And what’s more, it tastes so fresh - the juiciness and fully ripened apricot and peach fruit flavours wrap around an energetic, zippy acidity. A very smart buy.

This is the jewel in the crown of this estate. The vines are on the Aloxe-Corton side of the hill, south-facing, with clay/limestone soil. It sees no new oak (instead, the small volume is vinified in one-year-old barrels), so it has a fresh fruit style. It always has that classic Corton-Charlemagne smoky bacon nose, and a palate of profound and concentrated fruit. The freshness of the vintage works excellently here with the natural weight and power of the site.