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En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. At 300m altitude, with very little topsoil, Bruno’s two parcels (one of which touches Chevalier-Montrachet) make a magnificent wine: concentrated, opulent, mineral and energetic, with a precision you only find in Chardonnay grown on limestone.

This special cuvée comes from the oldest vines in Faiveley’s Clos de Bèze holding, and was first produced in 2011. The name is an homage to the family’s connection with the artist, Rodin, and the cuvée is only ever produced in tiny quantities. Powerful, deep, and dramatic. This will reward the patient.

Clos de Vougeot might be a grand cru, but in the wrong hands it can be ungainly and heavy. In the hands of the Grivots, however, it is a finely woven, detailed and poised wine with beautiful power and length. Rose petal and violets perfume the nose, with a little tobacco spice and pepper on the palate spicing up the ripe red berry fruit. Sweetly tender, but also so powerful, with nicely detailed tannins. This has fantastic ageing potential.

This is a brilliant 2021: pure, concentrated, and energetic. It has a beautiful nose of fresh rose petal, cherry and plum combining. An ample body, and smooth, supple tannins with just a little grip at the back. The depth of fruit and length of finish are equally impressive. Bravo.

You can feel the character of the poor stony soil found in Puligny here in this wine’s floral, racy delicacy. It has a piercing, slightly spicy intensity accompanied by a tenderness of fruit on the finish. Enticing, with intricate structure and superb definition.

Floral with a great energy on the nose. The energy follows through to the palate, with a lively core of acidity running through this wine. There is great depth to the fruit and a crunchy grip to the tannins which should see this wine age with grace.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s greatest vineyards, situated on the line of Grands Crus. Vines planted in 1937. Power and volume here, but not lacking focus on the palate. It’s a brilliant example of a brilliant vineyard.

This monopole vineyard spans over seven hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. In 2022 it steals the show, with its plush fruit, and beautifully rounded tannins. Excellent length that plays with fruit and spice gives it a persuasive power. You can order in magnum format until 2 January 2024.

In his third vintage here, Jacques Devauge has made a Clos de Lambrays for the ages. It has depth, dimension, texture, light and shade. Its many layers build in the palate. Jacques has achieved this nuanced character through vinifying each parcel separately. This is the work of a master crafter.