Over £75 per bottle

One can't help but be impressed by Château Ausone, set at the top of a tortuously twisted road, with its caves and chapelle dug into the limestone cliff. It is a fittingly romantic location for one of the world's greatest wines. A blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot, this is dark and brooding in the glass. The nose is exceedingly rich and dense, with attractive black cherry and bramble fruit characters. The tannins are firm and structured, yet ripe and well integrated with the rich core of dark cherry, cassis and damson fruit. A stony minerality and a dart of refreshing acidity reflect the terroir and lend backbone to the rich succulent fruit.

93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc. The 2019 from Rudd Oakville Estate is focused with pure, ripe blackcurrant and plum aromas, with more floral notes from the Franc and a stony, graphite finish. There's more blue fruit as time goes on with damson and blueberry, with a juicy, succulent feel on the palate and soft, rounded tannins.

With only 3000 bottles produced, the fruit for this wine comes from the oldest vineyard plots of Vigna Romirasco, Vigna Cicala and Vigna Colonello and is only produced in the best vintages. The wine is aged for 33 months in large Slavonian casks and spent a further 9 years in bottle before release. Expect fresh and dried fruits combined with liquorice, mushrooms, blood orange and wild flowers. The tannins have resolved and balance perfectly with the silky core.

When asked whether the Château was having to change anything to compensate for climate change, Marie Descotis, who heads up the Château's research and development department, explained that their terroir is proving to be perfect for the somewhat warmer and drier conditions over the last few years, allowing their Cabernet Sauvignon to flourish. The blend this year is made up of 86% of this Cabernet, 10% Merlot and the rest split between Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The resultant wine is the most concentrated they have ever produced, yet it is also incredibly poised and balanced. Dark berry fruits, notes of woodsmoke and spice come through on the nose. The palate is immediately fresh and pure, with a layered sense of fine tannin, depth and power. There is a graphite-like grip to the structure, a definite minerality and a core of cool-natured, classic fruit. Despite the concentration and density in the wine, the balance is such as to give it an almost approachable sensation. Beautiful rather than pretty, this is an elegant and refined wine that shows what could be achieved in 2011 with great terroir and a deft hand.

Yet another wine that shows just how good the 2014 vintage is. Soaring aromatics, incredible finesse, and remarkable length. A complete wine.

This 2017, sourced from 54 year old vines in La Morra’s Brunate vineyard, is rich and concentrated, with plenty of dark fruit, cedar and liquorice notes. Brunate is always among Barolo’s densest bottlings, but Vietti’s expression of the vineyard is as balanced a wine as we’ve tasted. It’s incredibly precise, and the extraction is masterfully handled.

An impeccable second wine from a celebrated vintage. The 2016 Forts de Latour is rich and exuberant with bright cassis and kirsch fruit alongside more aromatic blueberry and exotic spices. There is a tension to the palate though with bright acidity, compact tannins, and a mineral finish.

Clos des Goisses is Philipponnat's single vineyard Champagne from an impossibly steep site, with remarkable ageing potential. Taut, reserved, and refined in its youth, it will evolved and unfurl with manificent grace. The 2014 is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, striking the perfect balance.

It is anticipated that just 10,000 bottles will be produced, and this iconic Pomerol has created a memorable wine in 2013. Deep concentrated aromas of sweet red fruits and violets lead into a palate of rich, ripe cherry and strawberry fruits, with fine, ripe tannin and well-judged oak influences. Well structured, it will drink in four to five years and unfurl into a beauty. Very enjoyable, even as a barrel sample!