South Africa 2021

The 2021 Salt River Sauvignon Blanc is an incredible bottle of wine for the price. There's so much texture and tension here, alongside super-exuberant fruit, and a long and savoury finish. Utterly delicious, it will continue to improve in the bottle. If you can keep your hands off it.

The Thief in the Night is, in 2020, around 63% Grenache, with the rest made up of 26% Cinsault and 11% Syrah. It comes from Piekenierskloof, with the Grenache coming from the same vineyard as Eben Sadie’s Soldaat - Eben has 8 rows, and Duncan has 4. Here, at 550m elevation on sandstone soils, the wine maintains stunning energy alongside perfect ripeness. It’s red fruited and spiced, and very long indeed.

Not tonight Josephine is Duncan’s sweet wine, and it’s an incredibly well balanced example of the style. Saline and pure, with remarkable opulence and sweetness (it’s 310g/l of residual sugar), this is a privilege to try.

This comes from a parcel of Chenin Blanc in Paarl, that’s over 60 years old. It’s spicy, with a lovely yellow fruit component, and a very long, savoury finish. Duncan may not be known for Chenin, but this is spectacular.

Arguably Duncan’s most sought after wine, predominantly because of the miniscule quantity produced, The Girl Next Door comes from a 0.38ha plot of Syrah vines planted in the housing compound where Duncan used to live, that was originally planted purely for decorative purposes. But Duncan has been coaxing it back to life, weaning it off water, and farming it organically. Already impressive, Duncan reckons it’s still a few years from its best. But good luck finding any then!

Follow the Line is Duncan’s Cinsault, that’s quickly gained an almost cult following. From south-east facing old bushvines that are almost 40 years old, the wind and heat here mean that picking date is key, and a drop of Syrah in the blend adds depth and structure. It’s ageworthy and suave, with amazing length.

Arguably the least imaginative of Duncan’s wine names, Are we there yet? Comes from Malgas, way distant from the Cape’s heartlands, and from the Sijnn vineyards. The first time Duncan visited David Trafford’s project out here, he was blown away. He asked if he could buy a few grapes, and this is the result: a blend of 50% Syrah and 50% Touriga Nacional from 14 year old bushvines, that reflects the wildness of the place. The 2020 is gorgeous: fynbos, tapenade and dark berries, and real stony minerality. Don’t miss this.

The Savage White is a mix of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, it’s a wine that’s all about texture and finesse. The 2020 is stunning, with tons of spice and lots of energy on the finish.

The Savage Red gets better every year. 100% Syrah from a single vineyard in Kuils River, it’s spice and pure, with incredibly refined tannins and remarkable length.