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Domaine Claude Riffault
2021 Sancerre Les Chailloux, Domaine Claude Riffault Dry | White | Still | 13%

Stéphane Riffault grows in stature with every vintage, and is now unquestionably one of the most exciting producers in the appellation. His 2021s are thrilling wines. Chailloux is the local Sancerrois name for flint (more commonly known as silex), and this parcel is tucked up in the north-east of the appellation where this soil type predominates. It has a northwest aspect and is shaded by a large forest. Flinty sites are often a little warmer, but this one keeps cool, and produces profound acidity. The 2021 is extremely powerful, with exceptional acidity and length. Chapeau.

Ready: 2023 - 2035
2021 Sancerre Les Denisottes, Claude Riffault Dry | White | Still | 13%

Staggering attention to detail is paid by Stéphane Riffault in both the vineyard and cellar. He is unquestionably making some of the most exciting wines in the appellation. They stand out for their tightly coiled, supercharged concentration. This is Sauvignon Blanc as you've never known it before: powerful, with a filigree, piercing, precise freshness. It reminds me of the best 2014s, Chablis-eqsue in stature. It comes from a parcel grown on Kimmeridgian marl, known locally as terres blanches, which produces wines full of flavour and texture. The 2021 is a tour de force, and appropriately marks the domaine's first year with full biodynamic certification.

Ready: 2023 - 2035
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