Easter Cellar Raids -
South Africa and USA

A South African benchmark. The first vintage after the fire, 2021 is a spectacular year. This has remarkable intensity on the palate, with notes of white pepper, wild strawberries, but also a hint of black olive. So complex, long, and poised, in ten years this will be remarkable.

Planted in 1968 on the soils with the highest clay content, this is a structured, yellow-fruited wine, with amazing saline minerality on the finish. Delicious and mouth watering.

Donovan’s Cinsault was first released in 2015, and is a blend of fruit from Swartland, shared with David Sadie, and Darling, from the same vineyard as Duncan Savage’s Follow the Line. It’s a really lovely expression of this grape, with loads of rose petal and plenty of juicy berry fruit. Will also age well.

From a plot in Franchhoek planted in 1932, there are just 5,000 bottles of the Franschhoek Old Vines Lötter Cinsault.

Made with 50% skin contact and 50% without, the 2021 Tin Soldier is beautifully balanced. There’s lots of iron oxide on the nose, with ripe red apples, and a wonderfully driven, saline finish. This is from a parcel of Semillon Gris planted on the Paardeberg, on decomposed granite soils.

Taking it's name from the horses that used to work this plot, the Perdeblokke is a real beauty in 2020. There's such energy here, alongside the opulence we've come to expect from this warm site. Sweet and sour in character, this will convert even the most anti-Sauvignon wine lover.

This Chenin Blanc is different from all the other Chenins in our range: it comes from Elgin, one of the coolest grape-growing regions in South Africa. Planted on Bokkeveld Shale - not all that dissimilar to the soils of the Loire’s Savennières - this is as cool and precise as South African Chenin gets.

Pieter discovered this vineyard in some bushes - it had been totally abandoned for twenty-five years. It’s a parcel of old Chenin Blanc, that’s now forty years old, along with some young Picpoul Blanc, Petit Manseng, Semillon, Macabeo and Grillo that have been planted among the old Chenins. Oorbegin means new beginnings, referring to this new start for a forgotten vineyard. Fermented and aged in Amphorae, this is complex and balanced, with remarkable purity and shape in the mouth.

The Chi Riesling is from the cool region of Elgin, and reflects Jessica’s love for all things Mosel. Indeed, the soils here, at 300m of altitude and 10km from the ocean, are red slate, just like the hillsides above Urzig. It’s slightly off-dry (although in German classifications it would be classed as dry), and is a pure, savoury Riesling that’s simply delicious. Chi means ‘life force’, reflecting the energy Jessica seeks in her Riesling, and also refers to Chiuta, the African rain god: Elgin is the wettest part of the Cape. This ages brilliantly.

The 2020 Raaigras is a beautiful Grenache, coming from just twelve long rows of the vineyard in front of the estate, planted in 1952, making it the oldest Grenache in the Cape. It’s delicate and floral on the nose, with a power and intensity that builds over the palate. There’s stunning freshness here, and a long and mineral finish. Beautifully done.

The Syrah is a blend of 30% Greyton fruit, and the rest from a shale and sandstone vineyard in Elgin. These cool vineyards produce a Syrah that’s all about pepper and rose petal: a joy to behold.

100% merlot from Stellenbosch, this blew us away when we tried it in February. From a vineyard on the Simonsberg, this has notes of blueberries, and then also lots of violet character, and a charming, saline, mineral finish. Brilliant.Just 902 bottles made.

Matthiasson are renowned for their elegant style, with earlier picking than their neighbours to protect the bright, expressive red cherry and bramble fruit. There's some floral lift here and subtle spice. A refreshing, appetising version of Napa Cabernet that remains excellent value.

Tinta Barocca is one of the great grapes of the Swartland, and this comes from a single vineyard planted in 1966. Floral and intense, and almost bloody in character, this is remarkably well balanced, and very long indeed.

A newer wine for Lismore, this comes from Walker Bay, and has plenty of points of difference from the Chenin Blancs from Stellenbosch and the Swartland. Notes of orange blossom and jasmine, alongside a core of apple fruit, and lots of texture.

From the vineyard next to the cellar - Kelder in Afrikaans - this is as bright and energetic a Chenin Blanc as you’ll find. Volumes are miniscule, and the vines were planted in 1972. Floral and intense.

While the Epilogue Syrah gets all the plaudits, the Sons of Sugarland is arguably just as good, if not even better. It sees no oak, and is a peppery, suave, floral expression of the grape. With bottlings like this, it's no wonder that Reenen is regarded as one of the Cape's Syrah masters.

The 2021 Romance Pinot Noir opens with subtle spiced notes of pepper and dried wild herbs. There is a delicate undertone of earth which goes on to reveal floral notes of violets and rose petal. The palate is bright and focused with sinewy, delicate tannins and a lift of pomegranate and wild cherry on the finish.

Subtle and brooding, with wild cherry, black plum and dried herbs. There's decent structure here with linear, densely-packed tannins.

Planted in 1954, this old block of Cinsault gives an intense and refined expression of the grape. There’s real energy here, and there’s also notes of fynbos, negroni, and very fine but almost Nebbiolo-like tannins.

The most improved wine in Franco’s cellar, this is a stunner in 2020. It’s a blend of 44% Grenache Noir, 31% Cinsault, and 25% Syrah, and is floral, lifted, and so light on its feet. There’s such perfume here, as well as incredible energy. Just such a delight.

This single vineyard expression of Merlot from Steve and Jill Matthiasson is elegant and perfectly balanced, with dark cherry notes and a herbal lift. The Ashes & Diamonds vineyard was planted on silty loam and alluvial gravel in the 1980s and the mature vines are now showing a stunnning purity of fruit. This is an absolute delight.

A vineyard planted in 1996, this is the last bushvine Stellenbosch Syrah left. Dense and saline, this has a lot of tannin, but also the fruit inteensity to balance. This will age brilliantly.

This is an ageing Cabernet Franc bushvine on the edge of the Paarl appellation, that’s grown on weathered sandstone and decomposed granite soil. It’s a very silky, elegant expression, with lots of top floral notes, and then very silky tannins, too.