Easter Cellar Raids - Rhône, Cognac and Champagne

Billecart-Salmon might be one of the most recognisable names in Champagne, but it remains a family-run business to this day, with its cellars in the heart of the Montagne de Reims. Their Brut Réserve is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and is made in a wonderfully harmonious style. It is chalky and zesty, with bright, crunchy apple fruit on the palate and a zippy freshness. Its 50%+ reserve wine in the blend gives it complexity and character.

As the name suggests, this is higher up than the surrounding vineyards, and its elevation affords it a freshness and also a heightened concentration. The 2020 is musky, fragrant and full of garrigue notes. Rich with blackcurrant fruit at the core, with more aromatic bramble and exotic spice as the wine opens up.

There’s a beautifully balanced, yet intense and powerful Cornas. Notes of blood and iron, and such an inky character. This is a brilliant wine.

Blended from six lieux-dits, there's wonderful tension here between ripeness and mineral purity, with wonderfully perfumed and expressive Syrah fruit. The tannins are ripe and supple: this is a complete wine.

As the name suggests, this is higher up than the surrounding vineyards, and its elevation affords it a freshness and precision. Alongside the decadent berry fruit and garrigue herbs are notes of baked earth and roasted spices. What a wonderful Châteauneuf.

Alain Voge’s pithy sparkling wine, Les Bulles d’Alain, is unlike anything else we have on our list. It is lively, dry, refreshing, and refined. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, but don’t want the weight of a Champagne, this is the perfect option, and a smart price too. It’s a very good example of why Saint-Péray has built its renown for sparkling wines.

There is something magical here: it is at once aromatically precise, and energised with a wildness, reminiscent of garrigue herbs. As usual, it is a blend of 15 different parcels around Cornas, which Stéphane vinified separately, only blending at the final moment before bottling. Great freshness and balance.

Initial notes of white flowers on the nose, such as jasmine, honeysuckle and vine flowers can be felt and then opens with fruitier nuances of apple, pear and peach. A few notes of fresh sliced almond and frangipane complete the bouquet. In the mouth, the cuvée reveals more complex aromas: dried apricot, hazelnuts, honey and sugar candy. Silky textures give the wine its personality, elegance and character. The aging has imparted particular depth and power to the wine.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. Indeed, until recently it had been called ‘Classique’ rather than Les Schistes. It comes from a range of vineyards across the iron-rich soils of the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and the bottom of Viallière. The blend is saline and taut, with a flash of fresh cherry running through the palate. Fragrant, with a little cool spice.

This comes from a selection of 100-year-old vines in some of Stéphane’s best parcels, Champelrose, Eygats, and Combe. It follows in the same vein as the Cornas, but with greater presence of tannins and drive. It will therefore need longer in bottle to reach its peak. Hugely elegant, mouth-coating, and intense.

A blend of 15 lieux-dits across Côte Blonde and Côte Brune (in total 25 plots go into it). Really nice character here, fresh and lifted and pure with amazing density and a long and deep finish. René adores his son’s handiwork here.

The south-facing schist-terraced Les Picaudières vineyard produces age-worthy, expressive, sumptuous wines. As usual, this wears a little more oak than the straight Crozes-Hermitage, and as a result has a richer depth that will require some patience. It is focused and vibrant, with a wonderful depth of fruit.

This is from the lowest slopes at Vieille Julienne, a great site for Grenache, which loves its sandy, pebbly soils. The vines have an average age of 75+ years, and the wine is concentrated but poised. The Grenache gives generosity and breafth, and 10% Counoise brings some softer notes, freshness and balances the natural power of the wine. Lots of plush dark fruit flavours and firm structure, with a crunchy, red fruit accent and a minerally, stony finish.

Mon Village is the destination for the fruit of the Ogier’s younger vines, and it’s an approachable yet not-to-be-undervalued Côte-Rôtie. Very floral and supple, with persistence on the finish.

This is so much more than your average Côtes du Rhône. It comes from the vines that surround the cellar, sitting just beyond the northern border of Châteauneuf. It is so textured and fresh, with energy, purity, and density. Its juicy red fruits combine with a lovely salty minerality making for a charming, drinkable style.

A blend of 15 lieux-dits across Côte Blonde and Côte Brune (in total 25 plots go into it). Floral lift and wonderful dark intensity. Perfectly balanced tannins make this a brilliant Côte-Rôtie: one to stock up on.

This is a new cuvée in 2019, made from 50+ year old vines grown on a south-facing slope. It has a salty grip, and expresses the purity of fruit that Syrah is capable of in the best hands. Elegant and structured for the long-haul.

This cuvée is picked 2-3 weeks later than the others from the Domaine, and contains a higher proportion of mourvedre, giving darker, more mineral fruit, with more tannin and density. Layered and serious, this is a wine for the cellar. It more than justifies its separate bottling.

This is the emblematic cuvée of the Rostaing domaine, which blends 15 lieux-dits from around Côte-Rôtie. It showcases the Rostaing signature style: rich, dense fruit, with bold tannin structure. The 2021 has wonderfully open fruit, and this will drink well from early on. Savoury and highly appetising.

Cool berry fruit, with tapenade and fine tannins, and nice acidity, from a mix of foudre and demi-muids. Hints of violet and lovely freshness to the fruit. Real hit of salinity - this a Châteauneuf you can drink - with a persistent finish and a nice phenolic bitterness keeping it all focused.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde, and it produces a wine of huge elegance and subtlety, although you’ll want to tuck it away for a few years before pulling the cork.

This is a blend of two parcels and is the hidden gem of Sorrel’s range. 20% comes from Bessards, and 80% from Les Plantiers, just below Le Méal. These vines produce fruit with real power, and this wine has a great presence. But the floral tones and salty fruit make it more accessible than the Gréal, and mean it should start to open up a little earlier.

In 2021 this has a delightful herbal freshness entwined with the red berry fruit. It comes from granitic slopes in the heart of Cornas. It has no new oak and is always the most floral and forward of the Courbis Cornas wines.

Only made in the better vintages Jean-Paul thinks around 10% of the wine this year has gone into Cuvée Félix, from their 27 plots across 16 hectares. It contains 30% Mourvèdre which lends a musky, cool blackcurrant character. Finely packed tannins coat the mouth and there's a lot of dark fruit concentration on the palate. Floral hints and fresh acidity builds to a fine finish, this should be fantastic with a few years in bottle.