Cellar Raids: the final day

The 2020 vintage is bright and alluring with great juiciness and suppleness. Red berry perfume dominates the aroma profile, with sweet spice and wild flowers evident on the palate. There is a silkiness to the core that makes this wine very quaffable.

Complex, smoky and floral on the nose. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with superb texture and balance. It is precise and layered, full of savoury, dried herb and grassy notes on the palate. Impressive length. A perfect accompaniment to fish dishes or with goats cheese.

Billecart-Salmon might be one of the most recognisable names in Champagne, but it remains a family-run business to this day, with its cellars in the heart of the Montagne de Reims. Their Brut Réserve is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and is made in a wonderfully harmonious style. It is chalky and zesty, with bright, crunchy apple fruit on the palate and a zippy freshness. Its 50%+ reserve wine in the blend gives it complexity and character.

With only 6000 bottles produced, this 2019 sparkling is precise and very linear. White blossom, crushed shells as well as a nervy acidity produce a wine that is razor focused. At only 4 grams dosage, the wine is savoury and rather refreshing.

This wine is comparable in quality to the Grosse Gewächs level Spätburgunder from this estate. Expect the spiciness of Krauterberg, a breadth and creaminess of Sonnenberg and a minerality and complexity that you would associate with Herrenberg and Mönchberg. This wine has a delicious red berry perfume that is reminiscent of some of the best Pinot noir in Germany and beyond. Wild strawberries, jasmine tea and spice are the main charcteristics that shine in this wine. The tannins are tight knit and there is great tension on the core thanks to the crisp acidity and silky palate. The wine has an innate quality that you can enjoy now or will develop and age for many years to come.

This is from the lowest slopes at Vieille Julienne, a great site for Grenache, which loves its sandy, pebbly soils. The vines have an average age of 75+ years, and the wine is concentrated but poised. The Grenache gives generosity and breafth, and 10% Counoise brings some softer notes, freshness and balances the natural power of the wine. Lots of plush dark fruit flavours and firm structure, with a crunchy, red fruit accent and a minerally, stony finish.

Made from 100% Malvasia and aged for 20 years. Incredibly decadent and rich with masses of complexity and a persistent freshness so typical of fine Madeira. Berry fruit, leather, dried figs, coffee, citrus peel, caramel, and brown sugar. Perfect to pair with cheese or desserts or try as an aperitif.

This is a new cuvée in 2019, made from 50+ year old vines grown on a south-facing slope. It has a salty grip, and expresses the purity of fruit that Syrah is capable of in the best hands. Elegant and structured for the long-haul.

With a few years of bottle age, this is hitting its stride. Pithy and mineral, with just a hint of honey and freshly cut herbs, the price of this is astonishing. Complex, long, and stunningly delicious.

From one of the most famous sites in Neive, this shows the classic character of the commune. Very delicate and fragrant, this shows the classic tar and roses that we love in so much great Nebbiolo. Very pretty, and alpine tinged.

The most improved wine in Franco’s cellar, this is a stunner in 2020. It’s a blend of 44% Grenache Noir, 31% Cinsault, and 25% Syrah, and is floral, lifted, and so light on its feet. There’s such perfume here, as well as incredible energy. Just such a delight.

A classic Aussie blend of 73% Shiraz and 27% Cabernet. Rich and concentrated with savoury spice character from long maturation in old large-format oak.

The 2020 Bosberaad is from a single vineyard on the Paardeberg, planted on granite, with just 2,000 bottles produced. This is savoury and pure, with citrus lift, delicate spice, and a long and floral finish. Utterly delicious and sure to age well, it's not to be missed.

The Dry Red is inspired by the South African reds of the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. At this time, wines labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon would frequently have a considerable proportion of Cinsault, and this is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Cinsault, and is a wine built for long ageing.

The Kweekamp Chardonnay comes from a high altitude vineyard, planted on limestone. Limestone, the top pick for Chardonnay plantations throughout the world, is a rarity in the Cape, and this is a tense, mineral yet pleasingly open expression of the grape, with a lovely lick of oak spice. Just five barrels are made. In recent years, as well as being bottled by the Bruwers, this vineyard is also around one third of the blend of Capensis, South Africa’s most expensive Chardonnay, made by Jackson Family Wines.

Rich, soft and full-flavoured Cabernet, from vineyards all adjacent to the Rifle Range Road. They use large old oak for maturation which has softened the tannins but kept the pure Cabernet fruit at the fore.

There’s a lot of excitement about Lara and Luisa, and tasting this, we can see why. There’s a purity and fragrance to this that would not look out of place at the greatest estate. Fine-boned tannins, and then a remarkable sense of energy on the finish. A real charmer.

This is a great site for Grenache, which loves its sandy, pebbly soils. The vines have an average age of 75+ years, and the wine is concentrated but poised. The 2019 has a dry, savoury length, with spicy and floral notes emerging with some air. It's a truly delicious Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a tip-top vintage.

Expect bright, wild berry fruits from Pegel 735 with lots of energy and a very quaffable wine indeed. Rescued by H.O Spanier is more smoky in style with a signature bacon fat character from Stodden's wines. The wine is more brooding in profile with a zesty acid profile. Alexander Die Grossen is the Grand Cru wine that has an attractive perfume and presents jasmine tea and wild strawberry notes that continue for a long time on the palate.

Always on the tropical spectrum, the wine demonstrates a pepper spice as well as honey blossom and ginger notes. The concentration and ripeness is well balanced with purity and unflinching acidity.

This smells beautiful and has blood orange notes with plenty of focus and a lovely energy. Mouthwatering freshness, and there’s a real focus on the nose. Plenty of density here, with notes of baked earth, and lovely tannins on the finish. This is so juicy and fine, and with another year in bottle, this will open up even more, with so much texture and finesse. A brilliant Brunello.

Agile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure from this site. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, with some welcome Nuits-St-Georges structure giving it power and presence.

You’d expect this wine to be one of the best in the stable: from home turf, made from a magnificent blend of grapes from all but two of the village’s lieux-dits in 2021. It is one of the most complete and compelling portraits of the village you’ll find, and it’s a wine to remind you that these Olivier Leflaive wines are not only the most benchmark example of their appellations, but also some of the most exciting in their category. This is everything Puligny should be, and more: tight, steely, nervous, and in 2021, fabulously concentrated in rich fruit with a long, chalky, mineral finish

This comes from three parcels of 100-year-old vines in Champelrose, Eygats, and Combe. It is intense, and incredibly elegant on the nose, with mineral, saline, iodine notes. The palate shows voluptuous tannins which wrap around the deep red fruit, creating a mouth-coating texture.

From old vines of over 40 years, there is an intensity of ripes mango, pineapple and exotic friuts. The palate is much more tightly wound with real energy from the acidity as well as a touch of phenolics adding to the texture. This is a complex wine that will only get better with time in bottle.

Floral and expressive, haunting aromatics with wonderful ripeness of fruit. Palate is very textured and fresh, and very saline. Impressive density and length on the finish. This is wonderful.

The hallmark of great Châteauneuf is the ability to balance the weighty, mouthfilling fruit with freshness and lift, making a wine that can be enjoyed without being overpowering. Few make a wine with such charm and expression whilst still retaining the generous, mouthfilling style the region is famed for. Jean-Paul, take a bow.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

Darker and more brooding than the Gallina, this has more spice and sour cherry and lots of grip. Savoury, with impressive potential, and lots of dried herbs on the finish. A serious Barbaresco.

The Granite Syrah comes from the Paardeberg, from 24 year old vines, and is incredibly elegant and floral in style, with real focus.

Beautiful cherry fruit. Delicate, fresh, lovely purity and also plenty of juicy berries on the finish. Very saline and defined.

The 2017 Vin Santo from Castello di Volpaia is a magnificent effort that exhibits superb depth, density and complexity. Expect dried figs on the nose, with apricot and light caramel. There’s also a creamy texture here and an ever so slight nuttiness to the finish: almonds and toasted hazelnuts. Only the estate’s finest bunches of Trebbiano and Malvasia are selected for the this wine, and the qualityof this wine is soaring.

This is the estate's Grand Cru site with extremely old plantings from 1890. The wine has great acidity and freshness and the finish is long with a salinity that almost feels like a coastal wine. Grapefruit and beeswax notes combine with white florals.

A vineyard planted on Kalmoesfontein in 1954, this is a beautifully complex, savoury, well-balanced Cinsault. There’s notes of rose petal and a core of blue fruit. Delicious.

From a parcel planted in 1900, this is an incredible Cinsault of depth and power, and remarkable structure. Tiny quantities produced.

The Petite Arvine is intense and savoury. There’s peaches here, and plenty of savoury spice, with notes of fresh ginger and a long and textured finish. Very saline on the finish: makes you reach for another glass.

This is one of the great gems of our list: a top class grower’s signature wine. The fruit comes from around the village of Ingersheim, near the domaine’s cellars in Niedermorschwihr. Jean Boxler’s parcels are clustered around these villages; here, his attention to detail in the vineyard is revered by neighbours. There’s no doubt his efforts pay off in this 2020, which is concentrated, fresh, and poised. All of Jean Boxler’s wines have this enigmatic energy; they hold your attention and intrigue your taste buds. It bursts with zingy lime juice and white blossom. As ever, this is irresistible as a young wine but will also age beautifully.

This is Julien’s flagship wine. It is rich and woven-through with ripe tannin and forest berry flavours. It has a silky body and a bright, red-fruit-driven finish.

The Riserva is only made in exceptional vintages where the estate thinks the wine can keep in the bottle for at least 20 years. The wine has a lot of structure with the tannins and acidity giving the core focus and tension. The aromas project cool red berry fruits and wild strawberry and herbs with hints of spice and black tea.

This monopole vineyard spans over seven hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. It has a dark, swirling concentration of blackberries and spice. The tannins in this young wine are firm, and built for the long haul. Rich and powerful, long and tense.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. This is perfectly balanced with silky tannins and delicious salinity in the finish. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

Generous red fruit nose, floral and raspberry, with lots going on. The palate is finely judged, with lovely, silky and saline tannins, and good energy. Vibrancy and finesse in spades here. This is surprisingly approachable today.

From 85 year old vines that come from a small 1 hectare vineyard at altitude on complex soils of quartzite, slate and clay. Primarily Garnacha, there is some Macabeo that has been field blended in the vineyard. Blood orange, raspberries combined with sweet and savoury spice. The tannins a chalky and extremely well knit.

Beautiful fragrance and elegance on this stunning southern white. There’s texture and restraint here, and a finish that just makes you want to have another glass.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. It comes from a range of vineyards across the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau. Spicy and graphite-textured, with floral notes, and some intense black olive and cassis notes beneath. A classic Côte-Rôtie.

A blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese, 20% Grenache at 950m above sea level. Richness here, with a very floral character, and a spearmint finish. Very complex, and delicious.

Pure is 100% Grenache, all from 100 year old vines on sandy soils, very close to Rayas. The result is very intense, and, as the name suggests, pure. Black fruit wrapped in a rich, chocolaty texture and spicy length. It will need time in bottle to weave together, but already impresses.

This is, as ever, a sensational cuvée. 100% Grenache from 100 year old vines.Wonderful aromas of violets and lavender combine with pure black fruit notes and delicate nuances of rosemary and thyme. Morello cherry, damson and plums wrap around silky soft tannins, layers of mocha and sweet vanilla spice. Complex and precise with a wonderful freshness on the finish, this is a stylish and sophisticated wine that is not to be missed.
(Given 93-96 points in the Wine Advocate, Robert Parker)

Tinta Barocca has huge potential in the Swartland, this parcel, planted in 1972, shows it beautifully. There’s notes of iron oxide and black pudding, with a core of dark fruit. Structured and intense, this will age brilliantly.

Darker and more brooding than the Gallina, this has more spice and sour cherry and lots of grip. Savoury, with impressive potential, and lots of dried herbs on the finish. A serious Barbaresco.

The vineyard in Barbaresco that arguably made Roagna’s name. Pajé is a small strip of land facing South West, with an average age of the vines for this wine of 40 years old. It’s a benchmark Barbaresco, with lots of purity and delicacy to the fruit. Don’t miss this.

Howard John is in honour of Franco’s dad, and is a red blend that comes, from 2019, entirely from the Swartland. Lovely fruit. So much delicate energy, lovely mouthfeel. Plenty of perfume, then grip and a long and pure finish. Very detailed and very long.

Tin Soldier is 100% Semillon Gris from a vineyard propagated from cuttings from the Paper Kite vineyard, and planted just eight years ago. It’s fermented on the skins, and is copper-coloured and stunningly complex. Notes of orange pith and fresh ginger swirl from the glass, while the palate is wonderfully saline and brilliantly long. A favourite, the 2020 is taking this wine to a whole new level.

A blend of grapes from Greyton and Cape South Coast. Lovely energy here, with fynbos and tapenade notes, and then a core of dark fruit. Very nicely done.

Wonderfully pure on the nose, with plenty of rosehip character. This is incredibly floral and perfumed. The palate has notes of mint, with plenty of red berry fruit, and then also a hint of fresh pine needle. Blood orange, too, and other citrus. Very elegant, with such suave tannins, and a beautifully fine finish.

This comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It is so precise and lengthy, with a vibrant cherry red fruit that seems to go far beyond what a village usually delivers. It’s one of Mark’s favourites in the cellar, and we can see why. A small, well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. It is a resounding success in 2020.

Les Frémiets borders Pommard, and this wine has something of the character of both villages. There’s blue fruit here, with a floral lift and plenty of blood orange. Spicy and liquorice tinged, it’s a lovely wine.

The 2019 Taaibosch Crescendo is a Cabernet Franc led blend, that's utterly stunning in its second vintage. This has floral lift, plenty of body, and a lovely, saline, long, expressive finish. Delicious: this will age brilliantly, too.

A blend of half Chardonnay and half Pinot Blanc, from the Gouges clone, this is fresh and zippy, with notes of mandarins and a hint of fresh hazelnuts. There’s incredible acidity on the long, savoury finish, which has you reaching for glass after glass. Brilliant.

This cuvée is always the most powerful in the Clusel Roch stable, and even though the frame of all the 2021s is a little slimmer than recent warmer vintages, this still shows plenty of density and concentration. It comes from vines planted in 1935 by Guillaume Clusel’s great-grandfather. The parcel sits high up, above La Viallière, and makes a complex and structured wine.

Fragile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. It has bursting red currants and a firm blended spice note. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, and would be elevated further still if served with food.

Black and redcurrants to the fore with a fruit sweetness on the palate, balanced with fine grippy tannin alongside density and precision, this is seamless in its presentation. A very good vineyard, old vines and the detailed excellence of Manou and Frédéric have created a benchmark Gevrey.

A blend of Chenin, Viognier, Verdelho, Semillon Gris and a few other grapes. A lovely nose that is saline and fine, with plenty of reduction. Really nice savoury finish. Punches above its weight

Made by brothers Jim and Bob Varner, we love this Central Coast Pinot Noir for its bright and exuberant red fruit and mid-weight, refreshing style. It's uncomplicated and approachable, focused on the quality of the fruit and careful winemaking.

From a 19 year old vineyard on the iron-rich soils around Malmesbury, the Iron Syrah has a breadth on the palate that’s not found on the other wines, and is stunningly aromatic.

Bramble fruits are present here, intertwined with dried flower, fresh figs and licorice spice. Coffee and leather notes as well as rosemary give this wine added breadth. The acidity is energetic and juicy and the tannins are gripping.

Notes of wild herbs, sundried tomatoes, and rich cherries on the nose of this intense yet stunningly fresh Barolo. So intense and powerful, but yet also so lifted, with amazing complexity on the palate. There’s tar and blood orange, and an iron oxide note, too. Wonderful.

Pieuchaud is a flinty-soiled lieu-dit in the commune of Thauvenay in the south-east of the Sancerre appellation. Luc decided to isolate this vineyard after noting it always produced fruit with great maturity whilst maintaining high acidity - the secret to single vineyard wines in his opinion. In 2020 this is restrained, yet agile. It would do well for a few years in the cellar, and its saline, savoury structure will make it an excellent food wine in the years to come.

This cuvée was first bottled separately in 2019, but is actually the first vineyard that Sylvain rented when he struck out on his own in 2007. So it holds a special place in his heart. The vines are 50-60 years old on south-facing terraces. It has a salty grip, and a deep, rich dark fruit weight on the palate.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense, savoury, and long expression. The fruit concentration is impressive here, and the tannins are so well formed: punchy but well executed.

This is a rare wine produced in tiny volumes from vines of well over 100 years grown on a cool, north-facing terrace that Jean-Paul and his son Antoine tend. Undeniably ample and powerful, it demands time in the cellar.

This is a creamy, dark, cassis-drenched Syrah with plenty of focus. There is so much black fruit depth here. It feels tight and coiled in youth, with density on the finish, and dark, silky tannins.

This is a wine that’s overlooked at your peril. From a number of plots, such as Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot and Chapuzes, this is the essence of Cornas. Baked earth and rusty notes, with a wonderful deep core of fruit, this is long,

This parcel is quintessential Chinon: at the top of the hill overlooking the Loire river, its flood plains, and the charming eponymous town. It is named after the huge and statuesque oak tree that grows at its edge. Its excellent position affords it good ripening and drainage. The soil here is clay and sandstone, and produces a wine with a pretty red fruit structure, and some distinctively spicy notes. In 2019 it has harmonious balance, a little lighter in weight than the Varenne and Dioterie, it has this amazing freshness to the fruit.

Contrada is the estate's 'Cru' and is made up of 90% Carricante and 10% indigenous white grapes. The wine spends 12 months in large oak and a year in bottle. Yellow stonefruits combine with honey and pink grapefruit. There is a saltiness and steely character on the palate, yet there is a concentration and density with a long length

Over the past few decades, Gros' Noré has emerged as a top Bandol address, rubbing shoulders with its famous neighbour, Tempier. Their powerful Mourvèdre blends are rich, spicy and impressively ageworthy, and as with all great Bandols, retain a salty, herb-infused freshness. This 2019 has such an intense aroma of wild berry fruit and savoury garrigue herbs. There is a refined focus on the palate, with its grippy little tannins thanks to the quality of Mourvèdre fruit in the blend. These are so well proportioned it gives it a noble astringency along the finish which is filled out with the abundant fruit. There are layers of tobacco and spice, with a touch of liquorice. It is both earthy and elegant, full of character, and with plenty of depth to evolve over the years.

Intensely perfumed with pure aromas of raspberry, black cherry and red cherry. Light mineral hints of reduction on the nose, and a firm structure at this young age. Incredible concentration and intensity for its modest 11% alcohol.

This comes from a 3.8ha plot, with vines planted in 1937, with others in the 1950s and 1960s. Lovely floral energy, more grapefruit than the other wines here, and lovely juicy berries. Very serious palate, notes of cumin and tamarind. And lovely density on the finish, which persists.

Winemaker Jorge Monzón is an extremely talented winemaker and has managed to secure some impressive very old vineyard parcels to realise his potential. This Gran Reserva that spends 55 months ageing in old oak prior to bottling displays complex layers of strawberries, wild flowers and dried fruits as well as leather, clove spice and liquorice notes. The tannins are extremely fine grained and the length is impressively long and seductive.

Les Hauts de Pierre is the pinnacle of Blaise’s production. It comes from a single parcel of old vine Chasselas, and is powerful, textured, and intense, almost reminiscent of top Burgundy. This 2019 is a little closed, but with texture and purity on the palate, it points to a long life ahead. The salinity and leesy complexity on the palate lasts an age, with notes of citrus and more savoury elements unfurling over time: this is a remarkable Swiss white.