Cellar Raids: the final day

The 2020 vintage is bright and alluring with great juiciness and suppleness. Red berry perfume dominates the aroma profile, with sweet spice and wild flowers evident on the palate. There is a silkiness to the core that makes this wine very quaffable.

Complex, smoky and floral on the nose. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with superb texture and balance. It is precise and layered, full of savoury, dried herb and grassy notes on the palate. Impressive length. A perfect accompaniment to fish dishes or with goats cheese.

Billecart-Salmon might be one of the most recognisable names in Champagne, but it remains a family-run business to this day, with its cellars in the heart of the Montagne de Reims. Their Brut Réserve is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and is made in a wonderfully harmonious style. It is chalky and zesty, with bright, crunchy apple fruit on the palate and a zippy freshness. Its 50%+ reserve wine in the blend gives it complexity and character.

With only 6000 bottles produced, this 2019 sparkling is precise and very linear. White blossom, crushed shells as well as a nervy acidity produce a wine that is razor focused. At only 4 grams dosage, the wine is savoury and rather refreshing.

This wine is comparable in quality to the Grosse Gewächs level Spätburgunder from this estate. Expect the spiciness of Krauterberg, a breadth and creaminess of Sonnenberg and a minerality and complexity that you would associate with Herrenberg and Mönchberg. This wine has a delicious red berry perfume that is reminiscent of some of the best Pinot noir in Germany and beyond. Wild strawberries, jasmine tea and spice are the main charcteristics that shine in this wine. The tannins are tight knit and there is great tension on the core thanks to the crisp acidity and silky palate. The wine has an innate quality that you can enjoy now or will develop and age for many years to come.

This is from the lowest slopes at Vieille Julienne, a great site for Grenache, which loves its sandy, pebbly soils. The vines have an average age of 75+ years, and the wine is concentrated but poised. The Grenache gives generosity and breafth, and 10% Counoise brings some softer notes, freshness and balances the natural power of the wine. Lots of plush dark fruit flavours and firm structure, with a crunchy, red fruit accent and a minerally, stony finish.

Made from 100% Malvasia and aged for 20 years. Incredibly decadent and rich with masses of complexity and a persistent freshness so typical of fine Madeira. Berry fruit, leather, dried figs, coffee, citrus peel, caramel, and brown sugar. Perfect to pair with cheese or desserts or try as an aperitif.

This is a new cuvée in 2019, made from 50+ year old vines grown on a south-facing slope. It has a salty grip, and expresses the purity of fruit that Syrah is capable of in the best hands. Elegant and structured for the long-haul.

With a few years of bottle age, this is hitting its stride. Pithy and mineral, with just a hint of honey and freshly cut herbs, the price of this is astonishing. Complex, long, and stunningly delicious.

From one of the most famous sites in Neive, this shows the classic character of the commune. Very delicate and fragrant, this shows the classic tar and roses that we love in so much great Nebbiolo. Very pretty, and alpine tinged.

The most improved wine in Franco’s cellar, this is a stunner in 2020. It’s a blend of 44% Grenache Noir, 31% Cinsault, and 25% Syrah, and is floral, lifted, and so light on its feet. There’s such perfume here, as well as incredible energy. Just such a delight.

A classic Aussie blend of 73% Shiraz and 27% Cabernet. Rich and concentrated with savoury spice character from long maturation in old large-format oak.

The 2020 Bosberaad is from a single vineyard on the Paardeberg, planted on granite, with just 2,000 bottles produced. This is savoury and pure, with citrus lift, delicate spice, and a long and floral finish. Utterly delicious and sure to age well, it's not to be missed.

The Dry Red is inspired by the South African reds of the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. At this time, wines labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon would frequently have a considerable proportion of Cinsault, and this is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Cinsault, and is a wine built for long ageing.

The Kweekamp Chardonnay comes from a high altitude vineyard, planted on limestone. Limestone, the top pick for Chardonnay plantations throughout the world, is a rarity in the Cape, and this is a tense, mineral yet pleasingly open expression of the grape, with a lovely lick of oak spice. Just five barrels are made. In recent years, as well as being bottled by the Bruwers, this vineyard is also around one third of the blend of Capensis, South Africa’s most expensive Chardonnay, made by Jackson Family Wines.

Rich, soft and full-flavoured Cabernet, from vineyards all adjacent to the Rifle Range Road. They use large old oak for maturation which has softened the tannins but kept the pure Cabernet fruit at the fore.

There’s a lot of excitement about Lara and Luisa, and tasting this, we can see why. There’s a purity and fragrance to this that would not look out of place at the greatest estate. Fine-boned tannins, and then a remarkable sense of energy on the finish. A real charmer.

This is a great site for Grenache, which loves its sandy, pebbly soils. The vines have an average age of 75+ years, and the wine is concentrated but poised. The 2019 has a dry, savoury length, with spicy and floral notes emerging with some air. It's a truly delicious Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a tip-top vintage.

Expect bright, wild berry fruits from Pegel 735 with lots of energy and a very quaffable wine indeed. Rescued by H.O Spanier is more smoky in style with a signature bacon fat character from Stodden's wines. The wine is more brooding in profile with a zesty acid profile. Alexander Die Grossen is the Grand Cru wine that has an attractive perfume and presents jasmine tea and wild strawberry notes that continue for a long time on the palate.

Always on the tropical spectrum, the wine demonstrates a pepper spice as well as honey blossom and ginger notes. The concentration and ripeness is well balanced with purity and unflinching acidity.

This smells beautiful and has blood orange notes with plenty of focus and a lovely energy. Mouthwatering freshness, and there’s a real focus on the nose. Plenty of density here, with notes of baked earth, and lovely tannins on the finish. This is so juicy and fine, and with another year in bottle, this will open up even more, with so much texture and finesse. A brilliant Brunello.

Agile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure from this site. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, with some welcome Nuits-St-Georges structure giving it power and presence.

You’d expect this wine to be one of the best in the stable: from home turf, made from a magnificent blend of grapes from all but two of the village’s lieux-dits in 2021. It is one of the most complete and compelling portraits of the village you’ll find, and it’s a wine to remind you that these Olivier Leflaive wines are not only the most benchmark example of their appellations, but also some of the most exciting in their category. This is everything Puligny should be, and more: tight, steely, nervous, and in 2021, fabulously concentrated in rich fruit with a long, chalky, mineral finish

This comes from three parcels of 100-year-old vines in Champelrose, Eygats, and Combe. It is intense, and incredibly elegant on the nose, with mineral, saline, iodine notes. The palate shows voluptuous tannins which wrap around the deep red fruit, creating a mouth-coating texture.

From old vines of over 40 years, there is an intensity of ripes mango, pineapple and exotic friuts. The palate is much more tightly wound with real energy from the acidity as well as a touch of phenolics adding to the texture. This is a complex wine that will only get better with time in bottle.

Floral and expressive, haunting aromatics with wonderful ripeness of fruit. Palate is very textured and fresh, and very saline. Impressive density and length on the finish. This is wonderful.

The hallmark of great Châteauneuf is the ability to balance the weighty, mouthfilling fruit with freshness and lift, making a wine that can be enjoyed without being overpowering. Few make a wine with such charm and expression whilst still retaining the generous, mouthfilling style the region is famed for. Jean-Paul, take a bow.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

Darker and more brooding than the Gallina, this has more spice and sour cherry and lots of grip. Savoury, with impressive potential, and lots of dried herbs on the finish. A serious Barbaresco.

The Granite Syrah comes from the Paardeberg, from 24 year old vines, and is incredibly elegant and floral in style, with real focus.

Beautiful cherry fruit. Delicate, fresh, lovely purity and also plenty of juicy berries on the finish. Very saline and defined.

The 2017 Vin Santo from Castello di Volpaia is a magnificent effort that exhibits superb depth, density and complexity. Expect dried figs on the nose, with apricot and light caramel. There’s also a creamy texture here and an ever so slight nuttiness to the finish: almonds and toasted hazelnuts. Only the estate’s finest bunches of Trebbiano and Malvasia are selected for the this wine, and the qualityof this wine is soaring.

This is the estate's Grand Cru site with extremely old plantings from 1890. The wine has great acidity and freshness and the finish is long with a salinity that almost feels like a coastal wine. Grapefruit and beeswax notes combine with white florals.

A vineyard planted on Kalmoesfontein in 1954, this is a beautifully complex, savoury, well-balanced Cinsault. There’s notes of rose petal and a core of blue fruit. Delicious.

From a parcel planted in 1900, this is an incredible Cinsault of depth and power, and remarkable structure. Tiny quantities produced.

The Petite Arvine is intense and savoury. There’s peaches here, and plenty of savoury spice, with notes of fresh ginger and a long and textured finish. Very saline on the finish: makes you reach for another glass.

This is one of the great gems of our list: a top class grower’s signature wine. The fruit comes from around the village of Ingersheim, near the domaine’s cellars in Niedermorschwihr. Jean Boxler’s parcels are clustered around these villages; here, his attention to detail in the vineyard is revered by neighbours. There’s no doubt his efforts pay off in this 2020, which is concentrated, fresh, and poised. All of Jean Boxler’s wines have this enigmatic energy; they hold your attention and intrigue your taste buds. It bursts with zingy lime juice and white blossom. As ever, this is irresistible as a young wine but will also age beautifully.

This is Julien’s flagship wine. It is rich and woven-through with ripe tannin and forest berry flavours. It has a silky body and a bright, red-fruit-driven finish.

The Riserva is only made in exceptional vintages where the estate thinks the wine can keep in the bottle for at least 20 years. The wine has a lot of structure with the tannins and acidity giving the core focus and tension. The aromas project cool red berry fruits and wild strawberry and herbs with hints of spice and black tea.

This monopole vineyard spans over seven hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. It has a dark, swirling concentration of blackberries and spice. The tannins in this young wine are firm, and built for the long haul. Rich and powerful, long and tense.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. This is perfectly balanced with silky tannins and delicious salinity in the finish. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

Generous red fruit nose, floral and raspberry, with lots going on. The palate is finely judged, with lovely, silky and saline tannins, and good energy. Vibrancy and finesse in spades here. This is surprisingly approachable today.

From 85 year old vines that come from a small 1 hectare vineyard at altitude on complex soils of quartzite, slate and clay. Primarily Garnacha, there is some Macabeo that has been field blended in the vineyard. Blood orange, raspberries combined with sweet and savoury spice. The tannins a chalky and extremely well knit.

Beautiful fragrance and elegance on this stunning southern white. There’s texture and restraint here, and a finish that just makes you want to have another glass.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. It comes from a range of vineyards across the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau. Spicy and graphite-textured, with floral notes, and some intense black olive and cassis notes beneath. A classic Côte-Rôtie.

A blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese, 20% Grenache at 950m above sea level. Richness here, with a very floral character, and a spearmint finish. Very complex, and delicious.

Pure is 100% Grenache, all from 100 year old vines on sandy soils, very close to Rayas. The result is very intense, and, as the name suggests, pure. Black fruit wrapped in a rich, chocolaty texture and spicy length. It will need time in bottle to weave together, but already impresses.

This is, as ever, a sensational cuvée. 100% Grenache from 100 year old vines.Wonderful aromas of violets and lavender combine with pure black fruit notes and delicate nuances of rosemary and thyme. Morello cherry, damson and plums wrap around silky soft tannins, layers of mocha and sweet vanilla spice. Complex and precise with a wonderful freshness on the finish, this is a stylish and sophisticated wine that is not to be missed.
(Given 93-96 points in the Wine Advocate, Robert Parker)

Tinta Barocca has huge potential in the Swartland, this parcel, planted in 1972, shows it beautifully. There’s notes of iron oxide and black pudding, with a core of dark fruit. Structured and intense, this will age brilliantly.

Darker and more brooding than the Gallina, this has more spice and sour cherry and lots of grip. Savoury, with impressive potential, and lots of dried herbs on the finish. A serious Barbaresco.

The vineyard in Barbaresco that arguably made Roagna’s name. Pajé is a small strip of land facing South West, with an average age of the vines for this wine of 40 years old. It’s a benchmark Barbaresco, with lots of purity and delicacy to the fruit. Don’t miss this.

Howard John is in honour of Franco’s dad, and is a red blend that comes, from 2019, entirely from the Swartland. Lovely fruit. So much delicate energy, lovely mouthfeel. Plenty of perfume, then grip and a long and pure finish. Very detailed and very long.

Tin Soldier is 100% Semillon Gris from a vineyard propagated from cuttings from the Paper Kite vineyard, and planted just eight years ago. It’s fermented on the skins, and is copper-coloured and stunningly complex. Notes of orange pith and fresh ginger swirl from the glass, while the palate is wonderfully saline and brilliantly long. A favourite, the 2020 is taking this wine to a whole new level.

A blend of grapes from Greyton and Cape South Coast. Lovely energy here, with fynbos and tapenade notes, and then a core of dark fruit. Very nicely done.

Wonderfully pure on the nose, with plenty of rosehip character. This is incredibly floral and perfumed. The palate has notes of mint, with plenty of red berry fruit, and then also a hint of fresh pine needle. Blood orange, too, and other citrus. Very elegant, with such suave tannins, and a beautifully fine finish.

This comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It is so precise and lengthy, with a vibrant cherry red fruit that seems to go far beyond what a village usually delivers. It’s one of Mark’s favourites in the cellar, and we can see why. A small, well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. It is a resounding success in 2020.

Les Frémiets borders Pommard, and this wine has something of the character of both villages. There’s blue fruit here, with a floral lift and plenty of blood orange. Spicy and liquorice tinged, it’s a lovely wine.

The 2019 Taaibosch Crescendo is a Cabernet Franc led blend, that's utterly stunning in its second vintage. This has floral lift, plenty of body, and a lovely, saline, long, expressive finish. Delicious: this will age brilliantly, too.

A blend of half Chardonnay and half Pinot Blanc, from the Gouges clone, this is fresh and zippy, with notes of mandarins and a hint of fresh hazelnuts. There’s incredible acidity on the long, savoury finish, which has you reaching for glass after glass. Brilliant.

This cuvée is always the most powerful in the Clusel Roch stable, and even though the frame of all the 2021s is a little slimmer than recent warmer vintages, this still shows plenty of density and concentration. It comes from vines planted in 1935 by Guillaume Clusel’s great-grandfather. The parcel sits high up, above La Viallière, and makes a complex and structured wine.

Fragile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. It has bursting red currants and a firm blended spice note. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, and would be elevated further still if served with food.

Black and redcurrants to the fore with a fruit sweetness on the palate, balanced with fine grippy tannin alongside density and precision, this is seamless in its presentation. A very good vineyard, old vines and the detailed excellence of Manou and Frédéric have created a benchmark Gevrey.

A blend of Chenin, Viognier, Verdelho, Semillon Gris and a few other grapes. A lovely nose that is saline and fine, with plenty of reduction. Really nice savoury finish. Punches above its weight

Made by brothers Jim and Bob Varner, we love this Central Coast Pinot Noir for its bright and exuberant red fruit and mid-weight, refreshing style. It's uncomplicated and approachable, focused on the quality of the fruit and careful winemaking.

From a 19 year old vineyard on the iron-rich soils around Malmesbury, the Iron Syrah has a breadth on the palate that’s not found on the other wines, and is stunningly aromatic.

Bramble fruits are present here, intertwined with dried flower, fresh figs and licorice spice. Coffee and leather notes as well as rosemary give this wine added breadth. The acidity is energetic and juicy and the tannins are gripping.

Notes of wild herbs, sundried tomatoes, and rich cherries on the nose of this intense yet stunningly fresh Barolo. So intense and powerful, but yet also so lifted, with amazing complexity on the palate. There’s tar and blood orange, and an iron oxide note, too. Wonderful.

Pieuchaud is a flinty-soiled lieu-dit in the commune of Thauvenay in the south-east of the Sancerre appellation. Luc decided to isolate this vineyard after noting it always produced fruit with great maturity whilst maintaining high acidity - the secret to single vineyard wines in his opinion. In 2020 this is restrained, yet agile. It would do well for a few years in the cellar, and its saline, savoury structure will make it an excellent food wine in the years to come.

This cuvée was first bottled separately in 2019, but is actually the first vineyard that Sylvain rented when he struck out on his own in 2007. So it holds a special place in his heart. The vines are 50-60 years old on south-facing terraces. It has a salty grip, and a deep, rich dark fruit weight on the palate.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense, savoury, and long expression. The fruit concentration is impressive here, and the tannins are so well formed: punchy but well executed.

Baron Louis, their flagship red, is a testament to Rodolphe’s efforts to preserve local traditions and old rare varieties. The base is a classic 50% Grenache. But the other half is made up of floral Cinsault, powerful Mourvèdre, fresh Counoise, and fruity Carignan. The good value for money here cannot be overemphasized. Juicy, floral, fresh and poised.

This is a rare wine produced in tiny volumes from vines of well over 100 years grown on a cool, north-facing terrace that Jean-Paul and his son Antoine tend. Undeniably ample and powerful, it demands time in the cellar.

This is a creamy, dark, cassis-drenched Syrah with plenty of focus. There is so much black fruit depth here. It feels tight and coiled in youth, with density on the finish, and dark, silky tannins.

This is a wine that’s overlooked at your peril. From a number of plots, such as Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot and Chapuzes, this is the essence of Cornas. Baked earth and rusty notes, with a wonderful deep core of fruit, this is long,

This parcel is quintessential Chinon: at the top of the hill overlooking the Loire river, its flood plains, and the charming eponymous town. It is named after the huge and statuesque oak tree that grows at its edge. Its excellent position affords it good ripening and drainage. The soil here is clay and sandstone, and produces a wine with a pretty red fruit structure, and some distinctively spicy notes. In 2019 it has harmonious balance, a little lighter in weight than the Varenne and Dioterie, it has this amazing freshness to the fruit.

Contrada is the estate's 'Cru' and is made up of 90% Carricante and 10% indigenous white grapes. The wine spends 12 months in large oak and a year in bottle. Yellow stonefruits combine with honey and pink grapefruit. There is a saltiness and steely character on the palate, yet there is a concentration and density with a long length

Over the past few decades, Gros' Noré has emerged as a top Bandol address, rubbing shoulders with its famous neighbour, Tempier. Their powerful Mourvèdre blends are rich, spicy and impressively ageworthy, and as with all great Bandols, retain a salty, herb-infused freshness. This 2019 has such an intense aroma of wild berry fruit and savoury garrigue herbs. There is a refined focus on the palate, with its grippy little tannins thanks to the quality of Mourvèdre fruit in the blend. These are so well proportioned it gives it a noble astringency along the finish which is filled out with the abundant fruit. There are layers of tobacco and spice, with a touch of liquorice. It is both earthy and elegant, full of character, and with plenty of depth to evolve over the years.

Intensely perfumed with pure aromas of raspberry, black cherry and red cherry. Light mineral hints of reduction on the nose, and a firm structure at this young age. Incredible concentration and intensity for its modest 11% alcohol.

This comes from a 3.8ha plot, with vines planted in 1937, with others in the 1950s and 1960s. Lovely floral energy, more grapefruit than the other wines here, and lovely juicy berries. Very serious palate, notes of cumin and tamarind. And lovely density on the finish, which persists.

Winemaker Jorge Monzón is an extremely talented winemaker and has managed to secure some impressive very old vineyard parcels to realise his potential. This Gran Reserva that spends 55 months ageing in old oak prior to bottling displays complex layers of strawberries, wild flowers and dried fruits as well as leather, clove spice and liquorice notes. The tannins are extremely fine grained and the length is impressively long and seductive.

Les Hauts de Pierre is the pinnacle of Blaise’s production. It comes from a single parcel of old vine Chasselas, and is powerful, textured, and intense, almost reminiscent of top Burgundy. This 2019 is a little closed, but with texture and purity on the palate, it points to a long life ahead. The salinity and leesy complexity on the palate lasts an age, with notes of citrus and more savoury elements unfurling over time: this is a remarkable Swiss white.

This is packed with juicy concentration, with an impressive tension. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with the texture and balance to age well, though it’s probably too enticing to ignore right now. Impressive length.

This parcel actually used to be classified as a village parcel, and winemaker Mark seems particularly fond of it. It is really elegant and refined in 2021, with a hint of Gevrey’s density and spice. There’s a delicious hint of blood orange on the palate giving this a lift, there’s fine grained tannins and a long and pure, fruity finish. It’s one of the best Bourgogne Rouges you’ll find.

Coming from the oldest parcel of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, this wine delivers white grapefruit, jasmine, white peach and ginger and orange peel spice. The 12 months on lees gives the wine an additional weight and texture.

Like La Bretonnière, this vineyard is also within Vouvray, but cannot use the AOC name since it is vinified in Montlouis. It comes from a south-facing slope, and Jacky and Jean-Philippe are careful to get the picking date right here. Too early and it loses its drama, too late and it feels overweight. In 2020 it is distinctly pithy and dry, agile and long.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, and offers the best of Muscadet: pale lemon yellow, a little citrus and blossom on the nose, an elegant, defined length, with some savoury structure from lees ageing bringing it all together. This is an absolutely charming Muscadet. In 2019 it has an effortless freshness, and poised balance.

It’s the acidity that makes this a very special wine, with amazing freshness alongside a silky, precise finish. There’s loads of tension, and notes of oyster shell and ripe pears. Brilliantly complex and balanced.

This has fast become a Lay & Wheeler favourite. It’s a juicy, pure, light-footed, and expressive Syrah that comes from vines planted just beyond the limits of the Côte-Rôtie appellation. The 2020 has a poised cassis character with a leafy freshness, and a perfume of violets and peonies. Smooth and appetising. Stock up.

Another top cuvee, made from vines planted in 1901 in Pignam and La Crau, on sand, it’s named after their father Pierre, not a reference to stone. Volume and power, yet still elegance and finesse. Bravo.

This is Guy Breton’s top cuvée, and is given his nickname, P’tit Max, which he has been called since childhood after his father. The wine comes from a parcel of low yielding 130-year-old vines. He says that rather than being bigger or oakier than the rest of his wines (as top cuvées at other addresses can be), it instead has a level of finesse that sets it apart. This 2021 is so refined, with juicy elegance and perfectly formed velvety tannins. There is mineral depth to the fruit, and the wine already tastes delicious at this early stage. Don’t be afraid to cellar this with confidence.

In Aux Allots we find the domaine’s oldest vines, though how old precisely is unknown. The family bought the vineyard in 1969. It had been planted long before then, but the exact date has been lost to history. The wine has a wild, aromatic, peppery nose, fantastically textured tannins - not too imposing, but offering impressive structure - and a finish of great, great persistence. Wonderful.

Whilst most of the vineyard is terrassed (and goes into the blend bearing that name), a small half hectare section is not, having been planted in 1984. It might be difficult to farm, and very hard work to harvest, but it’s well worth it for the wine it produces. This 2019 hits the Pinot sweet spot. There’s no new oak getting in the way here; it’s just Pinot’s crystalline red fruit and subtle spice (cranberries and a hint of nutmeg) that sing here. It has a long, mineral finish.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey grands crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. The sweetly scented red berry fruit of 2017 is married with sleek new oak. Balanced and with a very fine, long finish. Truly grand cru.

Dark pink in colour, this rosato is a serious rosé that has a lot going on in the glass and a breadth on the palate that makes it a perfect pairing with food. Red cherry and plum fruits combine with pomegranate and citrus peel. The acidity is juicy and refreshing and there is a pithiness on the palate that brings more structure.

A tiny production wine from Luca, that’s got lots of Tortonian soil character. Lots of silky tannins, citrus fruit, and a lovely sense of purity. Rare but beautiful.

So mineral and deep, this balances a charming bitterness with lots of citrus fruit and also a core of very fresh fruit. This always reminds us of Negronis (in a very good way) and the 2017 is no different. Don’t be afraid to age this.

This wine shows fabulous richness and breadth, yet retains a mineral and flinty character and zesty acidity that brings structure and definition.

Released in 2022 directly from the Bollinger cellars in Champagne

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse. It is savoury, smooth, and long, with silky tannins and peppery freshness.

When we taste a wine like this, with such intense and eloquent expression, it is all the indication we need to follow an exciting new domaine. The 2018 is a deep plummy purple, with intense aromas of cassis, pepper and thyme. The palate is built around a bed of sweet, silky tannins, giving a smooth and dense structure, This is intense, dramaic, and compelling. Like all great Côte-Rôtie, with a few years in bottle this Syrah will fully unfurl.

Guy buys these grapes from a friend in the La Garonne climat. There’s an attractive floral note on the nose and a wonderful fresh, finesse to the fruit. The finish is long and saline leaving you reaching for another sip.

This comes from the young vines of the domaine, which are scattered across various parcels around the village of Nantoux. It has a zesty acidity giving it a fresh profile, which is twinned with the ripe berry fruit character. Whole bunch has been upped to 50% in 2020. It has a nice pepperiness, with a sapid length.

Taylor's flagship quinta, Vargellas yielded a fine ripe crop, which forms the backbone of this wine. Terrific intensity in the glass, certainly opaque, this offers scents of violet and fresh berry and exudes wonderfully ripe fruit. It is very impressive on the palate, with peppery characters and deep, dusky mulberry and plum fruit. There is an admirable sense of richness here and a beguiling, silky textural quality imparted by fine ripe tannins. A very appealing style with ample flowing fruit and a positively lingering intensity. A classic Taylor's in every sense.

This 60% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot comes from Latakia in Syria with the vineyards planted at 900 metres altitude. The wine spends 12 months in French new oak (20% new) which gives the wine an additional spice and tannin grip. The wine has a ripeness and suppleness as well as some development with dried spice notes. Expect bramble fruits and liquorice notes combined with hints of black pepper and dried cranberries.

The Tesselaarsdal Chardonnay is a generous yet impeccably balanced example, from a single vineyard on Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. There's lots of peachy fruit here, lime blossom, and notes of fresh ginger and sea spray. The finish is long and focussed, and there's real energy that lingers on.

From vines with a minimum of 35 years old, from across the Cape, this is Chris's ode to old vine Chenin Blanc (with 8% Semillon from the 80 year old La Colline vineyard, too). In 2022 serious selection has resulted in a beautiful wine. Orange peel and fynbos lift from the glass, with a blood orange note giving lift and gravitas to the palate. Don't be afraid to tuck this away for a decade.

From Stellenbosch, this Verdelho also has a drop of Semillon in the blend. Beautiful fruit here, with notes of pear and pineapple, and a long, pithy finish. An impressive whuite.

Lots of pepper spice here, which supports the core of dark berries and floral, violet-tinged character to the wine. This is nicely judged, and easily approachable, from a future star of the South African wine industry. Tiny production.

An incredibly elegant, refreshing expression of Grenache, this is delicate and perfumed. There’s wild petals and lots of crunchy red fruit, and there’s also talc-like tannins. This is from Bot River, and its cool climate credential, and careful winemaking, both show through beautifully.

Just the second vintage, and produced in miniscule quantities, this is floral and lifted, with lovely purity of fruit, and a juicy, fine-boned finish. Serve this at cellar temperature for a totally delicious Syrah.

Long a favourite Chardonnay, this is intense and structured. The fruit fills the mouth with stone fruits, white peach, and pear, while there's lots of spice and a long, savoury, mouth-watering finish. Just brilliant.

From the same vineyard on the far west coast of the cape as Eben Sadie’s Skerpioen. This Palomino is savoury, fresh, and beautifully balanced. It’s a curious, long-lived white that’s seriously impressive.

30% Greyton fruit, with the rest donated after the fire, this is complex and savoury, with plenty of grapefruit, and then spice from the oak. Really lovely, but needs a little time in bottle.

Sam is probably South Africa’s best Viognier producer. This shows why. Bot River, Elgin, Stellenbosch and Sutherland fruit makes up the blend, and the wine is peachy, with pear skin complexity and stem ginger, too. Lovely.

The 2020 Trust your gut is absolutely gorgeous. Floral, perfumed and wonderfully lifted, there's a core of grapefruit and elderflower, as well as greengage and yellow plum, and then leesy complexity on the palate. There's such drive on the finish, from the Paardeberg fruit, and then a peacock's tail of flavours emerges. Remarkable, and for this price a must-buy.

The 2020 Little William Syrah is a stunning, cool-climate Syrah from one of South Africa’s most dynamic producers. It’s cool, fresh and perfumed, with lots of floral lift and a really mineral finish. This is so delicious now, but will age well, too.

A blend of 41% Grenache from the Voor Paardeberg, 30% Syrah from the Swartland and Stellenbosch, and 29% Bot River Mourvèdre, this is a juicy, fine boned red that shows lovely focus alongside notes of pepper, redcurrant, and pomegranate. A wine that shows just how talented John is: it shouldn’t be missed.

The Miracle Bush White is a brilliant white blend from high altitude. It's a blend of 47% Chenin blanc, 40% Grenache blanc and 13% Palomino, with the Palomino from a vineyard planted in 1964. It's elegant, refined, with so much texture and floral lift. This is a brilliant wine from one of the Cape's best winemakers.

The Schist Chenin Blanc comes from two parcels of 35 and 39 years old, planted in the heart of the Kasteelberg. It gives a structured and intense Chenin, with a core of ripe fruit. This is so grippy and long. Remarkable.

Chenin Blanc from Durbanville just outside Cape Town. The Blouklip shale soils give a real richness to the fruit. There’s lovely purity here. Quite rich and spicy, with lovely energy, too. This is nicely balanced, with plenty of darker fruit on the palate.

The 2019 Family Vineyards Pinot Noir is a stunning wine, that’s all about floral aromatics and focussed energy. It comes from four separate parcels on the estate, and shows incredible balance, purity of fruit, and savoury length. A brilliant Pinot Noir: the best value we know?

From a single parcel high up on the Helderberg, this is cool and fresh, with lots of lemon oil focus. An outstanding Chardonnay.

The top wine of the estate, the 2019 Oude Nektar comes from a vineyard destroyed by fire in 2009, but that’s now in its sixth vintage following replanting. Profound, intense, and incredibly structured, this is surely one of the Cape’s great Cabernets. Don’t miss it.

From a 19 year old vineyard on the iron-rich soils around Malmesbury, the Iron Syrah has a breadth on the palate that’s not found on the other wines, and is stunningly aromatic. There’s incredible perfume here: this is bloody and almost citrus in character. A stunning Syrah.

The Schist Syrah comes from the couple’s Roundstone property, allowing full control of the farming. These 21 year old vines give a structured, peppery expression of Syrah. The berries here are 25% smaller than the Granite, and that gives this incredible texture and power.

The Granite Syrah comes again from the Paardeberg, from 24 year old vines, and is incredibly elegant and floral in style, with real focus. Powdery tannins and incredible length here. This is saline, with linear tannins and remarkable purity.

The country’s benchmark Pinotage delivers again in 2019. Notes of rose petal and a whiff of smoke on the nose, the palate is vibrant and full, with lovely minerality on the finish.

From 11 tiny parcels, the 2018 Pinot Noir is a powdery-tannined example of the grape, with notes of pomegranate and loads of floral elements. Red fruited and long, it’s a really lovely Pinot.

This Tinta Barocca, meanwhile, is a real labour of love. She loves the grape variety, and this comes from three different, old vine sources: one in Bot Rivier, one in Stellenbosch, and then a parcel on the same farm on the Paardeberg as the other two wines. This is a bottling that benefits from a couple of years in bottle: with that it develops wonderful smoky notes, and hints of blood orange.

There are just 1,800 bottles of the Wellington Old Vines Basson Cinsault, from a plot planted in 1900.

The culmination of the other wines of the estate is the Dry Red, inspired by the South African reds of the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. At this time, wines labelled as Cabernet Sauvignon would frequently have a considerable proportion of Cinsault, and this is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Cinsault, with grapes from the aforementioned vineyards included in the blend. In its youth, this is structured and intense, but with bottle age it’s sure to flourish.

Much more savoury and structured than the steepside, this is much more Cornas to Steepside’s Côte-Rôtie. The palate has notes of lavender and other herbs, and there’s also loads of bloody notes. From a vineyard that sees no morning sun, it’s no surprise that it’s so savoury and complex. This will age spectacularly.

Made by pinching the tops of the bunches, concentrating the sugars, and acidity, in the grapes, this is a really lovely sweet wine from Alex Starey. Green pineapple, ginger, and a hint of lemongrass create a very refreshing but intensely sweet wine. This is a blend of vintages, hence (for the one and only time) it's a N/V wine.

Sandhi are one of the most exciting producers in the central coast of California, crafting beautiful wines with character and sense of place. Exceptional nose of lemon rind, butterscotch and stone fruit. Perfectly balanced palate, flinty minerality, and complex citrus fruits.

A fantastic vintage from this biodynamic estate in Rutherford. It’s full of complex black fruits, floral notes and an earthy mineral element so typical of this sub region.

100% Cabernet Sauvignon made by Diana Snowden Seysses of Domaine Dujac. This is made from fruit sourced from the biodynamically farmed Red Hen Vineyard, owned by Bart and Daphne Araujo in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley. It's elegant in style, with silky tannins and a notable forest floor, earthy complexity around the bright red fruit. There are tobacco and cedar flavours in the background and a breadth across the palate towards the finish.

Full of fresh lemon, lime and grapefruit, with jasmine and kaffir on the nose. Tightly coiled with a seam of zingy acid through the palate. Zesty and saline on the finish.

Rockford pick their Semillon in several passes, sometimes taking two of three weeks on each of the vineyard parcels, resulting in a variety of ripeness levels to blend into the final wine. The result is complex, concentrated and rich. This is broad and soft in comparison to Hunter Valley Semillon, perpahs a result of bottling under cork.

Murdoch Hill's Artisan range has been on a roll in recent vintages, and winemaker Michael has reached new heights with this widely celebrated Syrah. A world away from traditional Aussie Shiraz, this is fine-tuned, layered and spicy with ripe plum, violet, and complex savoury, smoked meat and black olive aromas. Velvet in texture with melting tannins.

Racy and lifted style, with plenty of refreshing acidity and fresh citrus alongside some riper stone fruit aromas. This vintage is sourced from Sexton, Tarraford, Applejack, Primavera and Wombat Creek vineyards across the Yarra Valley with 50% from the upper Yarra ranges. They make this Chardonnay in a classic way with limited malolactic fermentation to keep the wines bright and racy.

Shiraz from Leeuwin Estate is the hidden gem of their range, often overlooked in the context of their brilliant Chardonnay and Cabernet. But this is rich, spicy and balanced with black cherry and plum, a hint of cassis and lots of aromatic spice like cardamom and clove. There's rich coffee and black olive complexity too and textbook freshly cracked black pepper.

Known locally as Rizling Rýnsky, this Riesling displays beautiful lime and citrus aromas with a steely quality that is evident on the nose and palate. There is an attractive waxy texture and ginger spice note on the palate that gives a breadth and additional concentration, with a brisk acidity that balances the wine elegantly.

Made up largely of Touriga Franca (50%) and Touriga Nacional (44%) this wine is a benchmark example of a Douro red. Bramble and black cherry fruits combine with black pepper spice and hints of lavender. Tannins are ripe and rich as well as firm and there is real balance and elegance. This is a real crowd pleaser.

The 2019 Apla is really fragrant and peppery, with amazing purity to the palate and a lovely touch of grip. It’s a blend of Xinomavro, Limniona and Mavroudi, and comes from vineyards across the very north of Greece. Made with elegance in mind, it’s a brilliant summer red, with added depth: akin to a very good Cru Beaujolais. Utterly delicious.

Though technically a rosé, this Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is verging on red and packed full of character. One of the great value wines on our list, this punches well above its weight with stimulating notes of cassia, pomegranate, crushed stone and zesty citrus. There’s gorgeous phenolics here too; the wine tapers off into a grippy and mouthwatering finale that will have you begging for another sip. The vibrant, eye-catching colour comes from Cristiana Tiberio’s exclusive use of free run juice and there’s a purity and expressiveness that belies the very modest price point. Absolutely magnificent.

The Dolcetto grapes are sourced from the Ovello vineyard, a west facing vineyard that is dominated by sand and significant diurnal fluctuations. The colour is brilliant purple with blueberry, violet and black cherry fruits. The tannin structure is chalky and the palate is very mineral and savoury.

Federica Dessolis, a young female winemaker is making waves in Mamoiada, Sardinia. Her work experience at DRC, Vincent Girardin and Domaine Marcoux in France has given her the grounding to return to her native Sardinia working with old vines and indigenous varieties. This wine has vibrancy and freshness that can often be missing in many wines from the region. Expect wild flowers, raspberries, clove spice and herbal hints. The tannins are supple and ripe, yet with sufficient grip to provide great structure.

A blend of two declassified Nebbiolo da Barolo vineyards: Bussia Brovi in Monforte d’Alba & Roncaglie in La Morra. There is purity of fruit and a precision and focus that are integral to this wine. The acidity is zesty and lively and the tannins are incredibly well resolved despite the wine’s youth.

From a single part of the Bricco delle Ciliegie vineyard: the steepest part. Really tense and mineral. Such cool fruit and texture. This has so much power and intensity, incredible acidity, and remarkable length. Such lovely purity here, this is fine, juicy, and very long. But just needs time.

This Chianti is a real delight in the glass with morello cherry, wild strawberries and red currant perfume. Licorice spice and subtle leather notes add complexity, with firm tannins that have a plushness to them and contribute to this wine’s seductive character.

Rich from old vine fruit with precise berries and wild strawberry fruit flavours. There's tons of dry spice aroma here too and a seriously long finish. Structured now with mouth-coating tannins, this is built for the long haul.

Lively, fresh, and a moderate 12.5% in alcohol, the Ribolla Gialla is blissfully easy to drink. Ribolla Gialla, native to the hills of Friuli is seeing a recent upsurge in popularity. And with wines like this, it's easy to see why. This is a carefully crafted hand-made wine, using organic fruit and wild yeast that speaks of an indigenous grape, and respects and reflects local tradition and territory. Don't miss it.

From 100 year old bush vines and planted on their own rootstock, this exclusively Nerello Mascalese red achieves an equilibrium of concentration and subtlety. Expect morello cherries, redcurrants and wild strawberries as well as liquorice, tar and clove spice. Tannins are chalky, with a firmness and the acidity is crisp and vibrant.

Old vines from over 80 years of age help give this wine a concentration and complexity from this Nerello Mascalese red with a small percentage of Grenache. Bright red fruits are the cornerstone of this wine, supported by violet perfeume and pepper spice. The tannins are fine grained and of exceptional quality.

From one of the oldest winemaking families in Italy, this Chardonnay is produced from the highly regarded Bussia vineyard. Having fermented and aged for 7 months in French barriques this wine has a breadth and hint of sweet spice that balances with ripe stone fruits and white blossom aromas. The acidity is crisp and refreshing and supports the wine's concentrated core that will enable this wine to develop and age in the bottle for some time to come.

Declassified Barbaresco, they only work with certified vineyards. Shorter maceration, for some vineyards, and some is a declassification based on the vintage. Really nice tannins, plenty of focus and energy, there’s real complexity here. This is creamy and nicely balanced. Used to be stainless steel only, from 2018 have enough oak, so it spends 4 months in oak.

From a single plot of the Bricco delle Ciliegie vineyard, planted on a precipitous slope, with some of the estate's oldest vines. More savoury and closed, but with such latent power, this is a remarkable Italian white. The pinnacle of the Arneis grape.

This wine is completely seductive and a joy to drink. Expect bramble fruits and spice combined with layers of complexity from leather and smoky notes. The tannins are present and have a grip yet have been very well managed and provide great structure and balance with the palate’s juicy core.

From a more exposed site, fermented on the skins of the amarone, to bring richness and power alongside the stunning perfume. It’s then aged in 500 litre tonneaux for 18 months, bringing spice and textural complexity. One for the cellar.

This Schioppettino from Marco Sara is such a delightful discovery. Peppery fruit on the nose, with wonderful aromatics of wild flowers, rose petal, fresh thyme, and so much more. The palate is vibrant and fresh, with lots of strawberry fruit and a savouriness, too. The tannins are light but present, and there's such lovely minerality on the finish. Serve this slightly chilled, or direct from the cellar. It's brilliant.

Broader than the Ribolla Gialla, this washes over the palate with notes of lemon pith and orange blossom. The finish is ever so slightly waxy, but the wine is not lacking freshness. Delicious.

Aged for longer than the Classico in larger barrels for 12 months, this wine is wrapped in savoury spice and leather notes. Bramble fruits take to the forefront, as well as cranberry and sour cherry combining with liquorice and tapenade notes. The tannins are powdery and present, but superbly integrated. This is Aglicanico at its best.

Specially selected bunches of a blend of Made up of a blend of 70% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, and 10% Rondinella are selected and placed in 7kg crates for 3 months to dry out in the sun, with this concentration of the sugars contributing to a weight loss of 40%. The grapes are then pressed and fermented. This is the 1st vintage of this Amarone, and Alessandro should be very proud of what he’s achieved. Classic Amarone notes of dried figs, cranberries and raisins are supported by cinnamon, clove and incense spice as well as more savoury notes of dark chocolate and leather. This wine is so well balanced and with only 16% alcohol (far lower than many Amarones), it shows restraint and focus. The tannins are sweet and well knit and the acidity is fresh and searing.

More dark and structured than the Chiniera, with much more present tannins. But on the nose there’s a wildness, an almost Pinot Noir type fruit. This balances elegance and incredible depth: there’s such pure fruit, and such length, and it demonstrates its Ginestra origins - with structure and minerality - with aplomb. This is a remarkable, beguiling wine from Gianluca Grasso.

The 2018 Yantra is one of the best value wines you'll find in Bolgheri, and probably in Tuscany. Ripe and open fruit on the nose, with silky tannins, and an impressively long finish. Very elegant yet intense.

Rossese Bianco is a grape variety that patriarch Giovanni worked very hard to bring back from extinction. There's a breadth of flavour here, with weight on the palate, balanced with amazing salinity and a piercing acidity. This is juicy and moreish, and will age well, too.

This is more about power, with Serravalian soil. Just 6000 bottles made from 3.2ha, showing the level of selection here. Fresh black olives and tapenade, and dark cherry. Really dense and complex, and the tannins are totally different, this is tightly wound with impressive texture. Really intense and pure fruit, and a hint of that citrus, blood orange character.

Coming from the Gallina vineyard, this wine is concentrated with the complexities you would expet from a high quality grower and site, with the focus and restraint that characterises a truly irrestistable Barbaresco.

Beautifully perfumed on the nose, with lifted notes of wild flowers, morello cherry, as well as sandy tannins and tons of energy. This is a remarkable Barbaresco from Luca, with a finish that lasts for minutes. So savoury, and so complex.

From the vineyard that borders the winery. Really floral, juicy and cool and lovely tannins. Touch of pepper, really nervous and elegant, and incredible length. This is very good indeed: floral and delicate, and amazing purity.

Fine-boned, with elegant tannins and almost pure citrus lift on the finish, this is a beautiful example of Barbaresco. So finessed and elegant, it’s a truly beautiful wine.

From the top of the hill in the Gramolere vineyard, from the oldest, 60 year old vines. More closed, but there’s such density and purity. Tons of vibrancy and it’s mineral and very perfumed, with nice tannins, and great density and silk, too.

This is the smallest and oldest vineyard in the domaine, with vines over 55 years old producing this Barolo in tiny quantities on red clay soil. Quite a serious wine, with intense tannins and a brooding concentrion. Complex, long and ageworthy.

Planted at 700 metres in a parcel named Barrandijos in the village of Alpartir on primarily limestone and slate soils. Juicy red cherry fruits combine with wild strawberries, rosemary and thyme notes. Fine grained tannins are supported with a silky palate and bright core.

A delicious wine where rose, wild strawberries and red currants ooze out of the glass. There is a finesse and a silkiness to the palate combined with a fine grained tannin that is of exceptional quality. The acidity is lively and crisp and there is a slight gravelly and mineral note on the finish. At 12.5% alcohol this wine is so approachable.

Dark cherries, plums, mixed spice and leather aromas with hints of dark chocolate. There is a lot going on in the glass, yet the wine retains its poise and there is freshness and vibrancy that cuts through the palate.

The red slate soil adds an iodine rich profile to the wines in this unique site. The backbone of this wine is flinty and saline and very tightly wound, with some fleshy peach and pink grapefruit notes and white pepper spice adding layers of complexity. The acidity is nervy and there is a wonderful phenolic grip on the finish.

From vineyards predominantly from volcanic soils, but also with slate and quartzite, this is a brilliant introduction to the wines of the estate. Mineral, cool, and utterly delicious, don’t underestimate the potential for ageing here.

With stony, warm soils this vineyard tends to flower early, making it the perfect vineyard for producing Kabinett. It is always delicate, with dancing acidity and plenty of ripe orchard fruit.

The Kahlenberg vineyard was first mentioned in 1499, it was used as the reference site for the former Royal Prussian Institute of Pomology and Viticulture when making official recommendations to winegrowers in the Nahe. South facing, this is a spicy Riesling with persistence.

Indigène is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. Its name refers to the use of only natural ingredients in its winemaking: primary fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and secondary fermentation initiated by the addition of Stéphane's own liqueur de tirage, made from the domaine’s own, fermenting straw wine. It is creamy and gently sparkling, with a vinous character running through the palate. It is one of the finest examples of its type

Owner Mark is a huge believer in the power of Pinot Noir-led sparklings, grown on the pure chalk of the Rathfinny farm. So their Classic Cuvée is Pinot Noir-led, and spends 36 months on the lees. Rathfinny only produce vintage wines, and the 2017 is crisp and fruit forward, with just 5g/l of dosage, and a long, chalky, delicious finish.

An outstanding Nyetimber Classic Cuvée, and the very last iteration of their vintage designated Classic Cuvée styles before they moved to a Multi-Vintage blend from 2011 onwards. It is also the last to be predominantly Pinot Noir. Toasty and complex aromas showing wonderful development after more than 5 years on lees in the cellar. On the palate a bright acidity is beautifully balanced by notes of honey, almond, pastry and baked apple flavours. Very fine and elegant with a great combination of intensity, delicacy and length. Truly special in this format.

The 1086 is Nyetimber’s prestige cuvée, produced to be the pinnacle of the estate. A careful selection of dozens of separate wines from the 2010 vintage, carefully blended together, it then spent six years on the lees before being disgorged. It’s not cheap, but it’s undoubtedly the most ambitious, and most complex, sparkling wine produced in England today. Notes of biscuit and red fruit, and a very long, focused finish. So impressive.

Released in 2022 directly from the Bollinger cellars in Champagne

This is a wonderful blend of Dom Pérignon’s nutty, rich, savoury style, with the freshness and drive of a high-acid year. Ripe peaches and a light tropical note on the nose are married with a generous and firm palate, with a vibrant, taut finish.

Recently disgorged 2008 vintage Bollinger is as good in real life as it is on paper. 2008 is a giant amongst recent vintages: the wines are long lived, powerful, and deep. The Bollinger original release was an instant hit. It’s a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, and the R.D has seen extended ageing, finally disgorged in October 2022.This extra ageing has added weight and depth to this already extraordinary wine, that opens with a nutty, savoury aroma. The palate is compact at first, with incredible energy, before unfurling in a magnificent wave of baked orchard fruit, hazelnut toast and sensational freshness.

Bin-end sale: case price down from £109.05 to £99 per 3 magnums in bond.
La Londe is unusual in the Côtes de Provence for warranting its own appellation, much like Bandol. It applies only to the best sites between Toulon and St Tropez, close to the coast, facing the dazzling Porquerolle islands. Here, the schiste soils and cooling sea breeze combine to make the most elegant and sophisticated of the region’s rosés. This is the top wine from the Combard family, made from the domaine’s organically-farmed grapes, selected and vinified by parcel with meticulous attention to detail. It is fine-boned and subtle, ethereal and enticing, and shows just what the best terroirs of Provence are capable of.

Tempier has stood as a preeminent domaine of Provence for decades, putting Bandol on the fine wine map. Under the direction of Daniel Ravier, the wines are getting better than ever. This classic blend of Mourvèdre, with Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault captures the wild garrigue scrub of the Provencal coast. It shows the sultry character of Mourvèdre with finesse and balance.

Domaine Tempier sit at the pinacle of the small but highly-prized Bandol appellation in Provence, famous for its long-lived Mourvèdre wines. The exposed parcel of La Tourtine enjoys the sunshine all day, but is freshened by the stiff Mistral winds. The vines look out over the Med - it's the perfect spot for Mourvèdre, which makes up at least 85% of the blend.

Sommelier-turned-winemaker Hervé Bizeul has earned kudos for his career change, from both somms and vignerons alike. He makes this superb cuvée from a parcel of very old vines (50-100 years) he bought in a forgotten corner of the Roussillon in the late 1990s. The vineyard had been abandoned, but over the past two decades has been brought back to life. The wine is a field blend of Grenache and local curiosity Lladoner Pelut, along with Carignan and Syrah grown on a limestone slope. The 2018 shows dark spice and black fruits, with dried herbs and a hint of salt. The structural tannins on the palate give it both richness and energy. It has impressive body, but there’s nothing heavy in its stature, lifted by just a hint of pepper running through the fruit.

Like La Bretonnière, this vineyard is also within Vouvray, but cannot use the AOC name since it is vinified in Montlouis. It comes from a south-facing slope, and Jacky and Jean-Philippe are careful to get the picking date right here. Too early and it loses its drama, too late and it feels overweight. In 2021 its as dramatic and exciting as it comes: pithy, zesty and fantastically long.

This is another of Jacky's outstanding monopole vineyards. Like Clos de Venise, it actually lies within Vouvray, but becuase it is vinified on the other side of the river, in Montlouis, it cannot use the AOC name on its label. This irritating quirk of appellation beaurocracy should not overshadow the quality found here. In 2021 the Bretonnière has astonishing length and persistence. This, combined with its perfectly weighted body gives the impression of both concentration and density as well as a light-as-air frame, make it a captivating Chenin Blanc. It brims with citrus and blossom notes on the nose, with a spicy, saline palate. One of the picks of the vintage.

This has got to be one of the best value sweet wines on the market. It is bottled in 50cl exclusively for Lay & Wheeler - the perfect size, we feel. It's made from 100% Chenin Blanc in the Loire Valley, and its balance of sweetness and freshness absolutely hits the spot. It is a beautiful pale golden colour, with aromas of Seville orange marmalade and acacia honey. The palate is fresh and vibrant giving it a refreshing, long finish. There is so much going on here.

This Cabernet Franc rosé is such a pretty delicate pink. It comes from the domaine’s young vines, which yield a fruity and open wine. The 2021 is the best vintage we’ve tried so far, with a delicious citrus fruit energy accompanying the sweet red berry fruits on the nose. A simple summer delight.

Although the Loire is a region that has not embraced the cru system, it makes an exception when it comes to the magnificent sweet wines around the tributary of the Layon, near Angers. Quarts de Chaume is made from Chenin Blanc, and offers up a complex symphony of Seville orange bitterness with sweet candied citrus peel depth. The wine is intensely perfumed with honey, flowers, quince and apricot. It shows outstanding acidity which cuts through the concentrated sweetness. 2021 was a challenging year in the vineyards, and only the most dedicated we able to achieve noble sweet wines. This example from Domaine des Forges was only produced in tiny quantities and is available exclusively in 50cl bottles.

Léon (previously named Florilège) is made from a blend of parcels across the limestone soils of the appellation. This has a limestone salinity and a brilliant tension. Such a great example of the appellation.

All the fruit for this blend comes from two parcels found at the bottom part of the slope. Some vines here are as old as 80 years, so although the attack of this wine is juicy, upfront, and invitingly drinkable, the finish is sustained and persistent with that old vine concentration taking this above a simple easy-drinking wine. It’s got a wonderful sour cherry note, with lightly smoky notes. This always works well in its youth.

This was yet again our top pick from the domaine’s four single vineyard wines. It comes from old vines planted on sandy gravel soils. It is always the first site to be picked, and in 2020 it captures the vibrant acidity and freshness of the vintage. The nose has subtle melon and green apple fruit, whilst the palate has beautiful energy, with crisp weight. A very complete and composed example of Quincy.

The Pinard brothers are the leading authority on Sancerre Rouge. This comes from a blend of parcels in the village of Bué, thought to be the best source of Pinot Noir in the Sancerre appellation. 50-year-old vines and low yields of around 30hl/ha give wonderful concentration. This means volumes are small, and demand far outstrips supply for this wine. It has deliciously fresh, ripe red fruit at its core, and silky tannins, it is an exceptionally well made Pinot Noir in any context. Wonderfully rich yet vibrant. 30% whole bunch.

Some of the vines in this vineyard are over 100 years old, and the wine always has a thrilling concentration and precision. The fruit is perfectly peachy, with a cool and silken texture on the palate that is supported by well-integrated oak.Fresh, vibrant, and complex, with bags of ageing potential.

These vines are grown on sandstone soils, and are picked around 10 days after La Jalousie, when the skins are a little thicker and beginning to turn golden brown. The wine is aged for 18 months in demi-muids, and the result is a wine that so perfectly captures the essence of Chenin Blanc. This is all crisp russet apple with just a hint of nutty complexity emerging. The palate is, whilst arresting in its freshness, also so silky in texture - a quality Evelyne says is typical of Les Caillardières. This is the dark horse of the Closel cellar: one to drink before the Clos du Papillon perhaps, but capably of giving as much enjoyment from its complex layer.

This is a grand cru in every sense of the word. It is so intensely perfumed with honey, flowers, quince and apricot. Outstanding acidity on the palate cuts through the concentrated sweetness. This is a high octane sweet wine.

This is the jewel in the crown of this domaine. It comes from a limestone (tuffeau) site overlooking the Loire which is so steep it has to be worked by horse instead of tractor. The nose has a chalky, mineral note alongside the apple and quince notes. The palate has a satisfying and silky weight, and a long, powerful finish.

All the fruit for this blend comes from two parcels found at the bottom part of the slope. Some vines here are as old as 80 years, so although the attack of this wine is juicy, upfront, and invitingly drinkable, the finish is sustained and persistent with that old vine concentration taking this above a simple easy-drinking wine. This 2019 has a leafy, sour cherry note, with lightly smoky, vegetal notes so typical of Cabernet Franc. It really opens up in the glass, promising it should age well.

This is a great vintage for Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire: ripe, balanced, and packed with punchy acidity. In 2019 Jean-François harvested this at night and the result is a pleasingly fresh wine with expressive energy. This is benchmark Sauvignon de Touraine, and a winner at this price.

This is the sweet spot of Domaine de la Butte - from right in the middle of the slope - and as such, produces the most complex and ageworthy of this triptych. Jacky and Jean-Philippe hold the wine back for an extra six months in the cellar before release as they know: this wine needs time. Its huge concentration and tannic stature are matched to slightly more new oak than the other wines. The density of fruit is more than a match.

These vines are grown on sandstone soils, and are picked around 10 days after La Jalousie, when the skins are a little thicker and beginning to turn golden brown. The wine is aged for 18 months in demi-muids, and the result is a wine that so perfectly captures the essence of Chenin Blanc. This is all crisp russet apple with just a hint of nutty complexity emerging. The palate is, whilst arresting in its freshness, also so silky in texture - a quality Evelyne says is typical of Les Caillardières. This is the dark horse of the Closel cellar: one to drink before the Clos du Papillon perhaps, but capably of giving as much enjoyment from its complex layer.

These vines are grown on sandstone soils, and are picked around 10 days after La Jalousie, when the skins are a little thicker and beginning to turn golden brown. The wine is aged for 18 months in demi-muids, and the result is a wine that so perfectly captures the essence of Chenin Blanc. This is all crisp russet apple with just a hint of nutty complexity emerging. The palate is, whilst arresting in its freshness, also so silky in texture - a quality Evelyne says is typical of Les Caillardières. Captivating.

This is a masterclass in balance. The sweetness may be intense, but so too is the acidity, and the length is truly of Grand Cru standard. There is a salty freshness to the bitter orange marmalade palate, and a finish that goes on and on. This comes highly recommended; a truly great sweet wine that will evolve for years to come.

Another big step up, this is a hugely impressive Savennières from one of the commune’s most celebrated vineyards. The fruit is lacy and pure, with really intense Chenin complexity:
a grassy, yeasty note alongside mouth-coating minerality. Superb.

Comtesse Madeleine: a brilliant white from Lirac, based on Marsanne, grown on limestone, and Clairette, whose vines are an impressive 140-150 year old. It is salty and mineral, with juicy stone fruit, some chalky notes and a refreshing and charming finsh.

The young vines planted by Graeme and Julie in l’Aleau have produced a miraculous wine in 2021. It’s only released in tiny quantities, but is well worth tracking down. There’s a step up in concentration and tension on the straight Condrieu. And the story behind the wine is one of the most charming we know. When winemakers talk about tending their vineyards like their gardens, we understand what they mean, but take it with a pinch of salt. In this case, these vines literally are Graeme and Julie’s garden, which sits between Coteau de Chéry and Château Grillet, below their house in Vérin. They bought the house a few years ago, and on discovering their garden was in fact prime AOC Condrieu, they not only decided to plant it with vines, but also to start their own domaine. So it’s where their story really begins.

Each year we see the Botts refine their style, and this Condrieu is a contender for most exciting wine of their 2021 vintage. They like to keep freshness in their Condrieu, rather than seeking richness and weight. And so 2021 plays right into their hands: the style is exactly that which they pursue. It is poised and energetic, vibrant and lively, with beautiful aromatic appeal. The granitic soils of Condrieu give the wine minerality and freshness alongside natural ripeness. It should be superb after a year in bottle.

Comtesse Madeleine: a brilliant white, based on Marsanne, grown on limestone, and Clairette, whose vines are an impressive 140-150 year old. It is salty and mineral, refreshing and charming.

This is a poised and energetic Condrieu. The Botts are not looking for richness and ripe alcohols in their whites. To that end they pick fairly early. This is a very balanced and restrained 13% abv, and is packed with vibrant fresh fruit flavours and a touch of almond. There is depth but no heaviness here. Julie says the granitic soils of Condrieu gives the wine minerality and freshness alongside natural ripeness. It should be superb after a year in bottle.

This Condrieu from a granitic south-west facing parcel has gained something of a following at Domaine Rostaing. It is the only white they make from the appellation, and is aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks. In 2019 it is brimming with ripe lemon, pineapple, pear, and almond aromas. The palate is smooth and gliding, with a light gingerbread note. Condrieu in its purest form.

From grapes grown just north of the boundary of the Châteauneuf appellation, surrounding the winery, this has to be one of our greatest hidden gems. Don't let the Côtes du Rhône label fool you, this is so much more than your average Côtes du Rhône. In 2020 it is full of brambly fruit and peppery garrigue notes along with dried flowers and savoury spice. There's lots of texture building on the palate but it feels tightly coiled now with restraint. As it opens it shows more generosity with fresh fruit and dry spice, with a very subtle hint of truffle.

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from, unsurprisingly, the old vines which are planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. Small amounts of whole bunch fruit (20%) add freshness and silkiness. In 2020 it benefits further from fruit that usually goes into a single vineyard cuvée, La Chapelle St Pierre, but because volumes were so small, it has been blended in here, adding extra lift and volume to the fruit. This wine shows superb old vine intensity, with density and precision in its notes of tapenade and cassis.

This is perhaps the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. The name may sound unfamiliar, but it’s one to remember. There are great hopes Seyssuel will be elevated to full cru status within a matter of years. The vines are planted just a 10 minute drive from Ampuis on schist and gneiss soils that glisten in the sunlight. There’s no granite here on this side of the river, and the Syrah is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture and a spicy, salty undertow. Kamata is the Maori word for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Much more than a curiosity.

This has got to be one of the bargains of the wine world. It is made by the Perrin family, of Château de Beaucastel fame. It is rich and spicy, with lovely juicy, peppery red fruit. Silky and delicious, it belies its price point.

This domaine only makes one wine, and they throw everything they’ve got at it. It is a blend of five parcels across the Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. They are the only domaine still producing just one blend in Côte-Rôtie. But they are fully justified in continuing this tradition; the quality of this wine speaks for itself. 2020 is the first vintage with talented Pierre Burgaud in sole charge, after a smooth handing-over from his father, Bernard. This vintage has deep concentration and wonderful acidity. Pierre calls it ‘exceptionnelle’, and we quite agree. He suggests it will have two drinking windows: one early on, in its first year or two, and another after a decade in the cellar.

This superb wine from Domaine Giraud comes from 50-80 year old vines grown across the various soil types found in the appellation. There is so much freshness and energy in this 2019, bursting with salty red berries. One of the best examples of its type.

This tiny cuvée is the jewel in the crown at this estate. Whilst it might be easy for a young domaine to buy vineyards in Seyssuel, it is not so easy in Côte-Rôtie. But Graeme and Julie do have two tiny parcels, and this cuvée has already won them much praise as newcomers to get seriously excited about. The 2019 continues their strong form in producing serious and impeccably balanced Côte-Rôtie.

This comes from a parcel of older vines, aged between 30 and 80 years. It is a textured and fragrant style of Crozes, with amplified fruit on the palate.

Sylvain fashions this from 12 different parcels across Saint-Joseph. Quite glossy and plush, this is openknit, with very exotic, intense fruit. A fruity, approachable Saint-Joseph.

There’s plenty of intensity and focus to this Crozes-Hermitage, with crunchy fruit and lovely depth and energy. There’s part of the blend that’s aged in barrels, the other part in stainless steel: the latter brings freshness, the former, texture.

A rare Côtes du Rhône made only from Syrah from the north of the valley, this is spicy and fresh, with wild strawberries and plenty of cherry fruit. There’s lovely grip on the finish: hard to spit.

From some of the best terroirs in Gigondas. 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. This is peppery with dark fruit and tapenade, and a touch of floral character on the finish. Very good potential.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. This is perfectly balanced with silky tannins and delicious salinity in the finish. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

Unlike the rest of the Breton range which is grown on granitic soils, this comes from the famous pierre bleue soils of Mont Brouilly. The parcel is actually owned by good friend, and Lay & Wheeler favourite, Jean-Claude Lapalu. J-C looks after the vines during the year, and he and Breton pick the parcel on the same day, with Breton buying half the grapes. The wines the two men make couldn’t be more different in style. This version is lightly scented with ripe strawberries and cinnamon. There’s a little light grip from some fine tannins that are woven through the symphony of sweet red fruits. It is a delicious expression of Beaujolais, one with some gentle body and sweet ripeness, but no heaviness at all.

This is the flagship wine of the domaine. It comes from 90-year-old vines, and shows a charming combination of energy and unforced concentration, with persistence and a light lift of reduction. At 13.5% it is perfectly balanced. This is a wine with so much life, and a great example of the Guy Breton style that has earned him such a following.

This comes from three parcels, two of which lie on the limestone soils near the distinctive Solutré rock bringing a tension to the wine, and the third on a richer clay site near Pouilly bringing density. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has a wonderful freshness in 2021, with light citrus and white peach aromatics, and a long, fine, saline finish.

Marcel believes this is his best vineyard. It is a blend of older and younger vines on limestone marl soils and makes a wine with silky ripeness and plenty of freshness. It could easily come from its grander and more expensive neighbour, Pouilly-Fuissé. In 2021 it has an intensely concentrated and juicy stone fruit core which gives the wine delicious grip and bite and a long, lingering finish.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.

Vaulorent is technically part of Fourchaume, the largest premier cru in Chablis, and is the only premier cru to share the same slope as the grand cru. It has very chalky soil and produces a wine of power and silky tension. The 2021 is so velvety and enticing, you almost don’t feel the power of the wine underneath the texture. Concentrated peach, apricot and a wonderful fresh grapefruit pithiness transcends, with a finish that is complex, long, saline and very fine - super!

The 2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay Le Haut des Champs has a well-defined bouquet with nectarine and peach aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite saline in the mouth with a bitter lemon finish. Fine.

This parcel in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, right next to Axelle’s cellar, sits at 450 metres altitude. The isolated parcel is naturally low yielding anyway, and, she says, naturally pruned by the local deer. As a result, it's an Aligoté with the yield of a grand cru, Axelle laments in jest. The vines are around 50 years old and around 10% of the vineyard is an old Burgundian variety, Melon de Bourgogne, more commonly found in Muscadet these days. The wine is energetic and delicious, brimming with apples and apricots, and a lacy, fine texture.

A blend of grapes from Bressandes and Chaumes, this is a generous but perfectly balanced Grand Cru, with notes of orchard, the texture of pear-skin on the palate, and and long, precise, and slightly pear skin finish.

This is a very special village lieu-dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. Most people who own vines here bottle it separately, as its character is of such high quality, it approaches premier cru complexity. This has Gevrey’s classical sour cherry density, and a sweet hint of dark cherry fruit on the palate. The fruit was entirely destemmed for this cuvée, and the body of the wine is juicy and fresh. Excellent.

Rossignol-Trapet owns two very fine parcels of this formidable grand cru. The vines were mostly planted in the 1950s, with a small section of young vines planted in 2000, and another small section planted way back in 1919. This is such an attractive wine in 2021, with magnificent structural texture, and a sophisticated length. It builds and builds, and will age with the best. Perfectly judged.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). Full of red cherries, with an elegant texture and silky length. Structured and complex.

Lots of mineral depth here, and there's also plenty of energy on the palate. There's a lovely density here - with notes of wild flowers and also darker frtui.

This monopole vineyard spans over seven hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. It has elegant and enticing red fruit on the nose, ripe though not rich. The tannins in this wine are supple and soft. This has astonishing depth, alongside haunting purity on the palate, a melange of wild strawberries, cherries, red plum with a finish that goes on forever. Such perfect balance in this fine, fine wine.

This is a flagship wine of the domaine, and at two hectares represents around a third of production. It’s an incredibly steep site just above Les Vaucrains which had been abandoned since the phylloxera crisis until Bertrand terraced and planted it in 2001. There is slightly darker, fuller fruit than that found in the 2019, but with the brightness of acidity it feels balanced and very complete, unforced and charming.

Claudie’s father, in his days of running a plant nursery with access to a huge range of plant material, planted seven different clones of Pinot Noir in this 2.5 hectare site. Now at 45 years old, this diversity, twinned with the quality of vineyard husbandry, means the vineyard is thriving. The different clones call for pruning and harvesting at different times, but it’s an effort worth making, as the wine is texturally sophisticated, juicy, and full of Pinot nuance. So balanced and extremely drinkable.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian Grands Crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). This is so suave and intense in 2020, with sweet, smoky spice around concentrated dark fruits, with a long, mineral length.

This is a flagship wine of the domaine, and at two hectares represents around a third of production. It’s an incredibly steep site just above Les Vaucrains which had been abandoned since the phylloxera crisis until Bertrand terraced and planted it in 2001. The wine is so precise and deliciously long. It feels almost excessively refined for a Nuits-St-Georges, and has little of the village’s typical robust structure. This is a seductive and tender Pinot, and will drink well from early on.

From a village vineyard, bordered on either side by two premiers crus. Fine-boned with energy, and plenty of savoury notes on the finish. Complex and detailed.

Monthélie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. The Lafon example is one of its leading lights. This is so juicy and attractive, with red fruit purity and beautiful cherry stone lift.

This is another outstanding Merlot from Marsau. Plums and brambles, with wild herbs and crushed rocks. The texture is gorgeous, and the finish lasts for an age. Brilliant.