Cellar Raids: Day Three

There's a Pinot Noir character on the nose of the 2019 Roc de Cambes, with dark cherries, and lots of floral notes. There's a sweetness to the fruit, and such a delicacy to the tannins. This is beautifully balanced, and incredibly refined: such a good wine, it's not to be missed.

Juicy, zesty, fine-boned, and moreish: this is a brilliant food wine. What more could you want from Barbera? This comes from a plot in the Ravera vineyard.

Orange peel and fresh beef tomatoes. And blueberry fruit and some violets. Lovely density: there's a weight and tannins to this, with such impressive length. Lovely acidity here, so much energy and a beautiful finish.

Initial notes of white flowers on the nose, such as jasmine, honeysuckle and vine flowers can be felt and then opens with fruitier nuances of apple, pear and peach. A few notes of fresh sliced almond and frangipane complete the bouquet. In the mouth, the cuvée reveals more complex aromas: dried apricot, hazelnuts, honey and sugar candy. Silky textures give the wine its personality, elegance and character. The aging has imparted particular depth and power to the wine.

Brambles and rich dark berried fruits combine with savoury spice and crushed stone and hints of black olive and rosemary. There is an intensity and concentration that is supported beautifully with fine grained but firm tannins.

This is a balanced and refined Savigny, with a long, plummy, spicy finish. It has 20% whole bunch, helping draw out the tannins in a more gentle expression, which works well here. Perfumed with plum, red cherry and rose petal, with a delicious freshness. Fantastic.

Mario decided that the 2018 Monvigliero needed less time in barrel, and felt it won’t age quite as long as some vintages, so this isn’t a Riserva this year. This is so refined, pure, and energetic, with lovely finesse, and sumptuous tannins. This is pure Monvigliero, and such a delight already.

Brioche aromas combine with toasted hazelnut and red apples on the nose. The palate is packed full of dried citrus and wonderful lemon concentration with hints of tropical fruit. Impressive depth and texture, whilst remaining precise and elegant. Excellent.

The 2020 Rieussec is delicious. Full of layers of zesty citrus, fresh mandarin, peach, honeysuckle and white flowers, as well as baking spices and a hint of marmalade. Rich, textural but refreshing and lifted on the finish. Each bottle has a distinctive resealable cork closure.

The Rothenberg in 2020 is a drop-dead gorgeous Riesling. It ripples with tension and drive, but has a little more creaminess than in some vintages, making a really delicious, approachable wine. Don't underestimate this wine's ability to age, though. This will go on and on and on.

This cuvée is picked 2-3 weeks later than the others from the Domaine, and contains a higher proportion of mourvedre, giving darker, more mineral fruit, with more tannin and density. Layered and serious, this is a wine for the cellar. It more than justifies its separate bottling.

The 2021 Romance Pinot Noir opens with subtle spiced notes of pepper and dried wild herbs. There is a delicate undertone of earth which goes on to reveal floral notes of violets and rose petal. The palate is bright and focused with sinewy, delicate tannins and a lift of pomegranate and wild cherry on the finish.

Vignes Franches lies right in the middle of the Beaune Premiers Crus, bordering Clos des Mouches among several others. The third vintage for this cuvée, it has attractive cherry fruit aromas with an interesting herbal note. There is an elegance and depth to the crunchy, cherry fruit on the palate and a very fine and long saline finish.

Torbreck's classic and traditional Barossa Shiraz. Very dark fruit profile with soy, coffee, dark chocolate and star anise. This has 2 years in 50% new French oak barriques. This drought vintage in particular is textural and grippy on the palate. This has an earthy, iron-rich feel to it, almost Hermitage-esque.

This is a blend of two parcels and is the hidden gem of Sorrel’s range. 20% comes from Bessards, and 80% from Les Plantiers, just below Le Méal. These vines produce fruit with real power, and this wine has a great presence. But the floral tones and salty fruit make it more accessible than the Gréal, and mean it should start to open up a little earlier.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

Mineral, fine, and remarkably complex, this 2018 is a really lovely wine. The palate has cherry fruit with some rose petals, and then lifted notes of seville oranges, and just a hint of spice. There’s a quinine-like minerality that comes through on the finish, making the finish of the wine very long, and making you reach for another glass.

This single vineyard expression of Merlot from Steve and Jill Matthiasson is elegant and perfectly balanced, with dark cherry notes and a herbal lift. The Ashes & Diamonds vineyard was planted on silty loam and alluvial gravel in the 1980s and the mature vines are now showing a stunnning purity of fruit. This is an absolute delight.

A vineyard planted in 1996, this is the last bushvine Stellenbosch Syrah left. Dense and saline, this has a lot of tannin, but also the fruit inteensity to balance. This will age brilliantly.

2010 was a benchmark year at Wiston: a vintage of perfect balance between yield & ripeness of fruit, which produced extraordinarily complex and elegant wines. This limited-edition, single vineyard, 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs has savoury layers of mushroom, spice and truffle with notes of lemon zest, biscuit and crushed oyster shells. Generous and very long. A wonderful example of how beautifully English Blanc de Blancs can age.

Sebastian may be best known for his Pinot Noirs, but this is a spectacular Chardonnay. Apple fruit and lots of complexity, with some spice and a mineral finish. Delicious.

Only made in the better vintages Jean-Paul thinks around 10% of the wine this year has gone into Cuvée Félix, from their 27 plots across 16 hectares. It contains 30% Mourvèdre which lends a musky, cool blackcurrant character. Finely packed tannins coat the mouth and there's a lot of dark fruit concentration on the palate. Floral hints and fresh acidity builds to a fine finish, this should be fantastic with a few years in bottle.

From Monforte, this always takes a while to come round. Dark and balsamic, but with small berry fruit, and chunky yet savoury tannins, this is Monforte with the lightest touch. Brilliant.

Wild strawberries, redcurrant and bright red cherry notes exude from the glass whilst the chalky, tight knit tannins provide the perfect backbone. There is a concentration and accessibility on the palate creating a rather enticing Langhe Nebbiolo.

The quartzite and red stones give more roundness and texture. The 2022 is wonderfully mineral with a saltiness to the finish. The palate displays an energetic acidity as well juicy stone fruit flavours, a wine that will not disappoint

Attractive perfume of red cherries, wild flowers and raspberries combine beautifully with a savoury gravelly note. The palate is very precise with a zesty acidity and well knit tannins. An approachable Barolo that showcases the best the region has to offer.

A wine that is fermented and aged in premium Stockinger barrels, with 17 months on lees to give the palate more weight and texture. Attractive reduction and flinty on the nose with white pepper and white blossom adding layers of complexity. The acidity is crisp and energetic and balanced perfectly with the creaminess on the finish.

100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford, crafted by Steve Matthiasson. This cuvée from Ashes and Diamonds is a tribute to what they consider to be the 'golden era' of the 1960s and 1970s in Napa: great wines made by farming in a traditional way, picking at lower sugar levels for lower final alcohol, and using gentler extraction. It's from the famous George III vineyard in Rutherford. A portion of it was planted in 1896 by Mrs Thomas Rutherford herself, and later used by André Tchelistcheff to make wine for legendary Beaulieu Vineyards. The wine has that classic 'Rutherford dust' in its texture, with elegant, gourmand, savoury notes. There's pretty red fruit with red currant and red plum, as well as some darker bramble alongside layers of tobacco, dried rose petals and exotic spice.

A blend of 30% from La Morra’s Rive vineyard, bringing flesh and body, 30% from Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, giving an earthiness and savouriness, and 40% from Serralunga d’Alba’s Baudana & Broglio, bringing tension and brilliance.This is pale and translucent, with pure fruit, silky tannins, and stunning energy. This is a brilliant wine, and is not to be missed

Expect liquorice spice, garrigue and smoky notes that are typical of these wines with concentrated red berry perfume and pomegranate thanks to the 100% Garnacha. The palate is silky and the tannins are supple and fine grained, there is a wonderful energy and freshness to the core and the length is long.

Grown close to the Pacific Ocean, this a mineral driven Chardonnay with lots of salinity and chalky texture. Fresh citrus and delicate white peach fruit.

Grown close to the Pacific ocean, there's plenty of mineral, saline influence here, with some crunchy red fruit notes. Spicy with herbal notes, with precise red cherry and black cherry fruit. There's a chalky feel to the tannins, and a wonderful fresh finish.

Initial notes of white flowers on the nose, such as jasmine, honeysuckle and vine flowers can be felt and then opens with fruitier nuances of apple, pear and peach. A few notes of fresh sliced almond and frangipane complete the bouquet. In the mouth, the cuvée reveals more complex aromas: dried apricot, hazelnuts, honey and sugar candy. Silky textures give the wine its personality, elegance and character. The aging has imparted particular depth and power to the wine.

Pelaverga is the indigenous grape variety to Verduno and is being revived by some high quality producers, such as Castello di Verduno. 2020 is a beautiful vintage that is approachable and instantly attractive. Expect an explosion of pepper and red berry and wild flower perfume.

Dog Point own many of the vineyards that went into the original Cloudy Bay, the wine that put Marlborough on the global wine map. Ivan Sutherland and his team now use this fruit to make the celebrated Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc and it's really a cut above your average Marlborough Sauvignon. There's restraint and subtle complexity from wild fermentation, they also use plenty of lees to promote flinty, reductive notes which are especially present at this early stage in its development. Within there's a core of gooseberry, guava and grapefruit flavours.

The Tolpuddle vineyard was planted back in 1988, and purchased by Martin Shaw and Michael Hill-Smith in 2011. It's a prime spot in the Coal River Valley, on one of the many slopes. It's north-facing in a rain shadow, and is a brilliant cool, dry place to grow quality grapes. Originally planted to clones more suitable for sparkling wines, Martin and Michael have gradually re-planted the vineyard to Burgundy clones, and the results in these recent vintages speak for themselves. Their Pinot Noir contains a decent proportion of whole bunches, and around a third new oak. It's full of black cherry, bramble and five spice aromas, with some lift from the whole bunch. Fine soft tannins, luxurious texture and bright, concentrated black cherry and wild strawberry flavours.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde, and it produces a wine of huge elegance and subtlety, although you’ll want to tuck it away for a few years before pulling the cork.

BodegasTamerán was set up in 2019 by footballer and Canary Islands native, David Silva after a much sought after 6 hectare vineyard became available on the island. He asked friend Jonathan García (owner and winemaker at Suertes del Marqués) to run the project and the wines have since gained much praise. This exceptional white wine comes from the volcanic archipelago of Gran Canaria. Vines are planted on their own roots at altitudes of 600-700 metres on mountainous plots benefitting from a cooling Atlantic influence and volcanic soils. There is a lot of citrus and ginger spice combined with fleshy stone fruit aromas with an incredible waxy texture.

From two vineyards, this is the hidden gem of Sorrel’s range. From 60 year old vines, this has a delicate floral character, with plenty of rich fruit and a beautifully long finish. One not to be missed.

This parcel sits just under one of Nuits-St-Georges’ most celebrated premiers crus, Les Vaucrains. It has an agile, elegant, and pretty structure, more refined than the straight village cuvée.

This has all the constituent parts to soar after sevearl years of slumber in the bottle. It's deep, powerful and intense, showing its breeding just below the Clos du Roi in Corton. It has nice, silky tannins with good depth and energy, and reasonable freshness. It just needs some time to come together.

This comes from the legendary Skurfberg, from the Oudam farm. At this stage it's very tightly wound, with notes of thyme and fynbos, and incredible drive. Give this a couple of years, and it will be brilliant.

The nose is already inviting, showing power and deep cherry fruit. There’s amazing drive and energy on the palate, with black fruits, spice and fine tannins. The power is undeniable, but it’s so elegant and finessed.

Blended from six lieux-dits, there's wonderful tension here between ripeness and mineral purity, with wonderfully perfumed and expressive Syrah fruit. The tannins are ripe and supple: this is a complete wine.

By Farr Shiraz is from the original vineyard planted in 1994. It's co-fermented with 2-4% Viognier and is matured in 20% new oak. There's a bit of whole bunch bringing a lift to the nose, but on the palate it's deeply concentrated with dark fruit and aromatic spice. Complex and structured.

The 2016 La Bonette has electric energy and great depth to the flavour. It’s clean and elegant, with a saline balance to the finish. It’s a touch less overt or hedonistic than previous vintages, but it’s no bad thing.

Pajana is a single vineyard in the plot of Ginestra,in the heart of Monforte from 1971 plantings. The core is concentrated with sour cherry, redcurrants and cranberries that are supported by spice and balsamic notes.

Sebastian may be best known for his Pinot Noirs, but this is a spectacular Chardonnay. Apple fruit and lots of complexity, with some spice and a mineral finish. Delicious.

Mas de Daumas Gassac’s quirky blend has earned it many fans over the years. The main component of Cabernet Sauvignon gives it structure and tannic backbone, whilst Merlot fleshes out the mid-palate. Spiced notes from Petit Verdot and a herbaceous lift from Cabernet Franc help add complexity. So far, so Bordelais… But the Mas de Daumas has an extra edge, thanks to the baking southern sun of the Languedoc, and the unusual components of Tannat and Pinot Noir that also play supporting roles. The overall impression is a rich, full-bodied wine, with a dried herb-scented lift, and fine, peppery tannins.

Mainly a 1988 parcel, but with some 1968 vines, too. The wind is key for this wine, Bernhard explains. It's an energetic Cinsault, that's all about lift and brightness, and red berries and spice. The finish is saline and has you reaching for another glass right away.

Les Epenotes was the first site to be awarded premier cru status in Beaune. This parcel of between 65 and 80 years old, was planted by Claudie’s grandfather. Claudie comments that this parcel is the first to be harvested, which they always do themselves before their team arrives! The 2021 is packed full of spicy, red and even black fruit aromas. This wine has fantastic energy, the purity and depth of the fruit leaving a lasting impression on the palate. Very fine.

This Bordeaux blend (50% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc and 11% Petit Verdot) comes from the heart of the Bolgheri region where the grapes benefit from their proximity to the Mediterranean coast. 2021 experienced a warm summer and therefore the profile of this wine is rich and concentrated. The wine however displays incredible freshness and structure and the vintage is a real delight. Expect bramble flavours and garrigue herbs combined with clove spice.

Vinified in oak rather than stainless steel (as the Rabajà-Bas is). This is aromatic and open, with wild flowers on the nose and plenty of intensity. There’s a purity and focus to the fruit, and notes of liquorice and tons of energy on the finish. This is very impressive, and very long indeed.

Silky, supple, and charming, the 2018 Barbaresco from Giacosa is a wonderful example of what makes Barbaresco so alluring. Rose petals and some citrus fruit, too, and there’s also a real energy on the palate. This is very fine-boned, and there’s an almost Pinot-Noir like clarity to the finish.

Fresh, textured and accessible, this is simply delicious. There’s pure cherry and spice with a touch of smoke, and it’s thoroughly charming.

Having spent 12 years ageing in casks in Bodega La Campana in Jerez de la Frontera, this Oloroso has taken on complex aromas of baked apple, grilled nuts combined with dark chocolate and saltiness.

In his third vintage here, Jacques Devauge has made a Clos de Lambrays for the ages. It has depth, dimension, texture, light and shade. Its many layers build in the palate. Jacques has achieved this nuanced character through vinifying each parcel separately. This is the work of a master crafter.

We are delighted to have discovered a new wine project that was established only a few years ago in 2020. The grapes are sourced from a high altitude, single vineyard plot on the foothills of Mountain Za, on the island of Naxos, Greece. Exclusively old vines of more than 150 years old, these low yielding, ungrafted bush vines are planted on spectacular rocky and clay terraces.A burst of lemon verbena, white peach and grapefruit combined with ginger and flinty notes are supported by herbal notes on the finish. The crisp acidity balances perfectly with the wine’s salty and tangy profile. The 150 year old vine fruit going into this wine gives concentration and energy that is so rare and so enjoyable to be able to taste.

This comes from mineral vineyards, not from Loess. It’s delicate, with notes of iodine and then a floral element. The finish spreads out and then there’s a bitterness here, too. This is explosive and very pure. This is a spectacular Grüner. So much oyster shell on the finish, and brilliantly balanced. Love this: very driven style.

Sommerberg is a 19ha grand cru that rises up behind the village of Niedermorschwihr. This wine always has a driven tension, and in 2018 there is a silky, smooth length. This is a beguiling style of Riesling: dry but with a restrained power and richness. The balance is outstanding. An exceptional grand cru.

1991 is a vintage prized by Syrah lovers for its balance, with the best wines marrying ripeness of fruit and freshness, with refined and silky tannins. La Chapelle is one of the world’s greatest wines, and this parcel is remarkable, coming direct from the estate’s cellars. Don’t miss it.

A gorgeous garnet colour. Delicate aromas of soft summer fruit, strawberry, cherry and a subtle floral note combine. The palate is full of finesse and balance with fine-grained tannins leading to a long, persistent finish.

Sitting below Les Arvelets, this 0.4 hectare parcel was planted by Claudie’s great-grandfather. The plot has to be farmed by horse as the layer of soil is so thin here. This 2018 has a rich and opulent nose of flora and cerises. The depth and density of the fruit is backed up by fine and chalky tannins, that have just enough grip and bite. Delicious now, but with plenty of potential to improve with further time in bottle.

Beautiful clarity, crystalline and voluminous. So much purity here; love the salinity on the finish. There’s also exotic spice, touch of floral, and just such a nice weight in the mouth.

Freshness, elegance and silky texture are the hallmarks of the Favia estate's wines. Indeed, the Cabernet Franc-led 2018 Cerro Sur wouldn’t be out of place in a line-up of the Right Bank’s top estates. Made in minisule quantities, it's an exercise in elegance with laser-like focus, freshness, and layer upon layer of mineral-laced black fruits. It's a welcome addition to our range, and is sure to provide drinking pleasure for years to come.

Le Gréal is a unique wine, and one that has built up a loyal following for its decadent, statuesque style. 2021 is a departure from the norm. Unlike all previous vintages back to 2009 that have been made from 100% whole bunch fruit, this is 90% destemmed. It feels less massive than previous years, more juicy, bright, and balanced, though it has an echo of the wine’s signature spicy notes thanks to the 10% whole bunch Guillaume has kept in the blend. It harks back to a style Guillaume says was last found in the 1990s. It may be unlike the wines we’ve come to love from this domaine, but actually, is a delicious iteration in its own right. In spite of its slighter style, it should age fantastically. One thing that remains constant is the fruit’s origin: 90% is drawn from the lauded Le Méal parcel, at 10% from Les Gréffieux, on the Hermitage hillside, from vines dating back to the 1920s. A small amount of co-planted Marsanne amongst the Syrah adds freshness and mollifies the tannins.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With many old vines planted on the clay soil pockets around the village, he has produced some great examples in 2020. This old vine cuvée is dark-fruited and spicy, with sour cherry freshness on the palate.

A brilliant 2019 from Chateau de Ferrand, located on the end of the limestone plateau in St-Emilion. Offering bright bramble fruit with cedar and baking spices on the nose, this has the supple tannins and concentration to age gracefully. Cabernet Franc brings a floral freshness to the wine adding to its refined and elegant style.

This, from the Voor Paardeberg, from really young vines, is just spectacularly delicious. Red apple and wild roses swirl from the glass, while it’s the salinity and texture of the palate that really blew us away. Such an individual wine; such a wonderful wine.

The 2018 Cupano Brunello di Montalcino is a stunning wine from this corner of Tuscany. Notes of blood orange, of morello cherries, and of spice all swirl from the glass. The nose entices you in, while the palate dazzles with its balance and purity. There’s that core of fresh fruit, while there’s also incredible complexity brought by a savoury minerality and sweet spice from the 5% new oak. This is a really beautiful iteration of the vintage, showing elegance and refinement, but with no loss of concentration.

Made from a 20-hectare plot of Crozes owned by Delas, and blended from 5 different blocks with big galets. Nice nose, creamy cherry and silky tannins. Beautiful elegance and purity. Long and silky.

Tuvilains is a lovely vineyard on the Pommard side of the town. Scented with rhubarb and raspberries, with a lot of structure on the palate. There is 20% whole bunch here, and some support from new oak. In 2021, it is spicy, red fruited and light bodied, with a refreshing crunchiness to the tannins.

This comes from 0.7 hectares of premiers crus across the village: La Riotte, Les Sorbès, and Le Village. The new style of vinification has drawn out the finest qualities of the fruit here: tight red berries, but with a fine silky texture to the tannins, and an elegant thread of acidity.

One of the great wines of Piedmont, this doesn’t disappoint in 2012. From a single plot in the Bussia hillside, this has astonishing depth and intensity. Notes of tapenade and dark cherries swirl from the glass, with some notes of tar and lots of wild roses. This is so complex, so long, and so enticing.

This single vineyard is located on the north side of Nuits, near Vosne-Romanée. It has a hint of that silkiness, but in its youth, the Nuits structure and stature dominate. This is a great example of the bold and muscular Nuits: fully bodied and full flavoured, with 2019’s brilliant freshness.

From the Voor Paardeberg, this is a complex and well-balanced Grenache Blanc. It has notes of yellow fruit and plenty of spice and herbal notes. In no way overblown, this is a masterclass in balance from Marelise.

Continuum, owned by Tim Mondavi, is an impressive vineyard at the top of Pritchard Hill. The 2019 is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot and 6% Merlot and is aged in two-thirds new French oak, with the balance in second or third-use barrels and a single concrete amphora. There's a distinct sage note that is a hallmark of Continuum, with lifted violet notes and rich black cherries. The texture is plush and silky but there's a stoniness that brings freshness at the finish.

Sourced from very old vines on slate soils that take on an additional layer of salty minerality in vintages like 2020. Expect the jasmine, lemon citrus and fleshy peach notes to be underpinned with steely and stone notes as well as a saline core. Restrained concentration defines this wine.

This comes from old vines planted in the historic vineyard of Rocoules. It is powerful and deep, and will certainly benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Always a good value Pomerol, the 2020 Moulinet-Lasserre, from the middle of the appellation, has loads of juicy fruit but also excellent acidity. For lovers of Pomerol, who don't want the pricetag, this is a smart buy.

RunRig has a fragrant, soft profile, with fine tannins and an ethereal poise, despite some serious power and concentration. This is all grown on the western ridge of the Barossa Valley. It's a blend of six vineyards, including what is likely the oldest Shiraz in the world. There's 25km between the vineyard sites, creating plenty of complexity in the fruit. It finishes saline and mineral, long and fresh.