Cellar Raids: Day Two

The estate’s ‘Premier Cru’, from the vineyards that surround the estate, with grapes that don’t quite make the Hundsrück or Centgrafenberg. It shows a little of both of these vineyards, with some brooding, mineral intensity, and then a charming, floral top note. Such a delight in 2020, it’s not to be missed.

Grown on clay limestone on some of the coldest soils they have for Riesling, this vineyard is surrounded by hills limiting the sunlight it receives. There’s some warmth here still, with a silky texture and some rich breadth. Savoury on the palate with ripe apple fruit and some citrus too, with very subtle petrol hints at this early stage.

René Rostaing is one of the most famous and respected of Côte-Rôtie ‘s vignerons. He is all but retired these days, leaving the domaine in the capable hands of his son, Pierre. This 1999 was made during René’s pomp, and shows the ambition and skill of a winemaker at the top of his game.

La Belle Hélène comes from the lieu-dit Rozier that lies in the northern half of the appellation, on the Côte Brune. Here the mica-schist soils and granite soils produce structured and concentrated wines, with lots of black fruit flavours, and plenty of power to see it through a few decades in the cellar.

Probably the finest Beaune vineyard, in the 19th century it was seen as a Tête de Cuvée, the top level of the côte’s wines. ⅔ of the vines here are over 55-60 years old. Blood orange and dark fruit, there’s so much to this. Lovely fruit, and the tannin builds on the crunchy finish, which is fresh withamazing elegance. Expressive and long.

The nose is reticent at first, but with time and aeration, aromas of pure blackcurrant, violets, cocoa bean and smoke emerge. On the palate this is a wine of grand stature. There is a ripe sweetness and multilayered depth to the fruit which offsets the fine and insistent grip of the tannin. This wine is classically Haut-Brion in its broad and powerful nature, alongside a lightness of touch, elegance and precision. There is a hidden depth to this wine, with just a touch of nuance and detail evident at this young stage. The incredibly long finish is an early testament to the potential that this will evolve into great wine with time.

The 40 – 45-year-old cru vineyard Colonnello is one of Conterno’s best sites, with its complex mix of sand, magnesium and manganese soils. The 2019 is a classic vintage and one for Nebbiolo lovers and is very similar in profile to 2016. The 28 months the wine spends in Slavonian oak has helped round out the present tannins. Wild flowers and red berries combine with pomegranate and crushed raspberries. There is a concentration that is perfectly balanced with the racy acidity, a true delight to drink.

Achleiten is one of Prager’s most recognised vineyard sites, with this cuvée coming from a parcel that is largely gneiss, with the vines planted in the 50s on the lower terraces at around 220 metres. This wine is often the most open and floral of all of the Prager wines with classic white pepper notes supported by crushed stone and lime.

With over 70 terraces of vines in the highly regarded Achleiten vineyard in Weissenkirchen, this vineyard is extremely diverse with plantings over 60 years old. This wine always displays an attractive white blossom aroma with hints of citrus and pear. The palate has a weight and silkiness as well as having a steely character and crisp acidity that provides a linear profile.

This magnificent slope rises up behind the village of Niedermorschwihr. It’s extremely steep, and produces wines of superb power and scintillating tension from its sedimentary volcanic soils. Zind Humbrecht only released this wine for the first time in 2019. The parcel was bought in 2010 and replanted after a few fallow years, in 2013. High density planting (9000 vines/hectare) and the steepness of the slope here have pushed the young vines to produce something really quite extraordinary. Indeed, Olivier admits, he hadn’t been planning on releasing a wine from this site so soon, but was so astonished with the quality and character of the wines from 2019 onwards that he felt compelled to do so. 2.8g/l residual sugar (dry)

Rangen de Thann is the most southerly of the Alsace Grands Crus, and the quality of its wines has been documented as far back as the 12th century. Olivier Humbrecht's immaculate vineyard work in its volcanic soils combined with low yields make this 2021 a wine of sensational freshness, inspite of the fact it's one of the parcels to be picked latest. It has a breadth of lime and papaya fruit on the nose witha silky texture on the palate. There is so much tension and power in this grand cru; it will age brilliantly. This magnificent slope rises up behind the village of Niedermorschwihr. It’s extremely steep, and produces wines of superb power and scintillating tension from its sedimentary volcanic soils. Zind Humbrecht only released this wine for the first time in 2019. The parcel was bought in 2010 and replanted after a few fallow years, in 2013. High density planting (9000 vines/hectare) and the steepness of the slope here have pushed the young vines to produce something really quite extraordinary. Indeed, Olivier admits, he hadn’t been planning on releasing a wine from this site so soon, but was so astonished with the quality and character of the wines from 2019 onwards that he felt compelled to do so. 3.5g/l residual sugar (dry)

The richest Pinot Gris they made this year at 8g/l. Slightly reductive on the nose with a mineral, flinty feel from its volcanic soils. It’s very tightly wound now and needs some years in the bottle to open up. The mineral character follows through on the palate but there is a little softness to the texture and citrus, pear fruit already.

This is a two hectare plot that borders Château Grillet. It’s so powerful and elegant, with clean mineral and savoury notes added to the spice and stone fruit. The definition across the finish is spectacular, and there’s energy to keep it driving on.

Only 1 cask (769 bottles) of this Sercial was produced by one of Madeira's top but lesser known producers. A family business where they have maintained tradition by buying grapes and specialising in ageing rather than grape growing. Expect dried apricot and mango as well as toasted hazelnuts and dark chocolate notes combined with a zesty acidity that despite the wine's age brings a youthful character.

This vinous, terroir-driven Fino from Peter Sisseck’s project in Jerez is an absolute revelation. In 2017, Sisseck, of Dominio de Pingus fame, acquired an 8-hectare plot of the Viña Corrales vineyard at the highest point of the Balbaína Pago. From this scenic plateau overlooking the Mediterranean, cooling sea breezes, famed albariza chalky soils, and Sisseck’s meticulous winemaking efforts combine to create a textured, aromatic, and vibrant wine. So moreish, this is a wine to delight sherry lovers and sherry sceptics alike!

This is a wine that gets better and better, no doubt thanks to Matt's experimenting with the single vineyard wines. This is the best iteration we've tried, and is up there with the best Sauvignon Blancs we've tried, from anywhere. At this price, not to be missed.

Brazen is a blend of Fernao Pires - from 37 year old vineyards in the Swartland - alongside amphora-aged Palomino from a 47 year old vineyard in Piekenierskloof, and Grenache Blanc from the Voor Paardeberg. It’s a savoury, textured, vibrant white, with a mineral finish that lasts for minutes.

The 2018 is a spectacular Vin de Constance. A wine that shows notes of fresh apricot, wild flowers, and just a hint of wild honey, the finish here is somehow savoury, keeping everything in check. There’s notes of white peach and grapefruit zing, and then spice fills the palate, too. It’s an astonishingly complex wine, that is somehow intellectual and delicious at the same time.

The forgotten grape of the Swartland, but one that makes some of the most interested wines from here. This is dark and savoury, but with Marelise’s lightness of touch. Don’t overlook this!

We were totally blown away by Lucinda’s Cinsaut, when we tasted it for the first time last year. It’s from a 1974-planted vineyard in Darling, on red sandy soils, and she’s making it in a style that’s most reminiscent of top Beaujolais. With 50% Carbonic Maceration, and the rest whole bunch fermentation, this brings out a really floral, elegant side to the Cinsaut grape. It’s a really beautiful red.

The Geyserville vineyard sits in the Alexander valley and is responsible for some of Ridge's most celebrated wines. The wines have elegance and restraint, but an underlying power with black fruit dominating. Lively acidity cuts through the density of the fruit and the complex coffee, cedar and vanilla notes.

Lingua Franca is the project started by Master Sommelier Larry Stone, with the help of winemakers Thomas Savre and Dominique Lafon. The 2019s might be the finest set of wines they've produced yet. The AVNI is an aromatic expression of Pinot, with bright, fresh red fruits and exotic spice, then smoky notes on the finish. There's some richer, fruit cake and cherry drop flavours on the palate and some soft tannins.

Kevin Judd was famously the winemaker for Cloudy Bay, and this is his own project. It's named after the local soils, and from the heart of Marlborough, made with his extensive knowledge and even adorned with his own photography. Fruit for the Wild Sauvignon is sourced from top Marlborough vineyard sites and the wine was entirely fermented with spontaneous indigenous yeast. It's a floral Sauvignon with herbal lift and an expansive texture from time in barrel and on the lees. This expressive texture is perfectly balanced with crisp, flinty acidity making for a truly delightful wine.

One of Australia's most revered wines, this vintage has 5% Viognier co-fermented and has 20% to 35% whole bunch fermentation. There's always an ethereal feel to this wine, almost Pinot Noir like in its structure. The flavours are pure Shiraz though, with licorice, spicy cured meat, black olive and exotic spice.

This Grenache is produced by Marco Cirillo from two 100+ year old vineyards from the renowned Barossa Valley. Full of rich fruit and spice, the palate is generous with intense and classically Grenache characteristics. It’s smooth, rounded, and generous with fantastic texture from 12 months maturing in old foudres. A true bargain, this is a wine that can be enjoyed now, or well into the future.

This is the top wine from the historic Wirra Wirra winery, one of the pioneers in McLaren Vale. Chook Block is from a single biodynamically farmed vineyard plot and is only released in the top vintages. There's lots of complex, ripe fruit here with red and black cherry, raspberry, cassis and mulberry, covered in dark chocolate and spice. There's more leathery notes as the palate continues, and iron-filing-like mineral notes. There's plenty of oak character and bold structure around the core of dense fruit. Long and concentrated on the finish.

The historic Wirra Wirra winery, first established in 1894, is one of the larger McLaren Vale producers that manage to deliver quality at all price points. This is one of their top reds and is the classic Aussie blend of Shiraz and Cabernet. It's sophisticated and focused, with powerful cassis and softer purple fruit on the nose and palate. There's lots of cedar, nutty notes and vanilla from oak, which adds to the structure of the wine. With a few years in bottle, it's knitting together beautifully, and has the stature to age well for decades.

Ben Glaetzer balances bright freshness with powerful ripe black fruit in this Shiraz and Cabernet blend from the northern end of the Barossa Valley. It has a lovely herbal lift on the nose, with vanilla and chocolate complexity giving richness to this serious generous wine.

Hunter Valley Semillon is one of the more unique and celebrated wine styles in the world, and many consider Vat 1 from the historic Tyrrell's winery to be the pinnacle. Made from old vines, it's concentrated with lemon barley, pear and grassy flavours when young. But the distinct feature of Hunter Valley Semillon is its ability to age beautifully. With no oak, and bottled under screwcap, it will develop rich, complex, toasty flavours.

With only 3,000 bottles made, this brilliantly individual, barrel-aged expression of Bacchus is a rare find. Made using later press fractions to extract more tannin and flavour, Flint ferment and age the wine in 3rd and 4th fill oak barrels for 6 months, with weekly bâtonnage (lees stirring) on half of the wine. Their use of barrels encourages aromatic development and softness rather than oak flavour. The result is pithy lime, almond, elderflower and cut grass aromatics that continue on the wonderfully textural, creamy palate. Flint Vineyards assure it will age well too, with honeyed, petrol-like characters developing over the next 3 to 5 years. One not to miss!

Fragrant, charming and unique. The 2020 Touriga Vai Nua is expressive and beguiling on the nose, with notes of violets and a hint of iron oxide alongside oodles of aromatic blue fruit. The palate is fresh and fine with wonderful precision, and layers of flavour that keep unfurling. At this price, it's a bargain.

The grapes for this outstanding 2022 Soave Classico come from the hills within the Soave Classico zone and benefit from volcanic soils and 300 metre altitudes on largely west facing slopes. Pieropan is the benchmark Soave wine producer and never fails to deliver vintage after vintage. 2022 yields were smaller than average, so expect great concentration and vibrant acidities as well as white stone fruit, white blossom and lemon citrus notes.

Made predominately of Carricante and a 1/3 and grapes being sourced from Contrada Arcurìa, Passopisciaro on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. The altitude of 600 metres as well as the complex volcanic soils help the wine achieve its mineral and vibrant palate. White, fleshy stonefruits are supported by white pepper spice and orange blossom notes. Citrus peel, fresh mango and salty notes continue on the finish for a long time.

Bruno Giacosa put lots of emphasis on his Roero Arneis, and this is one of the best examples as a result. There’s lovely drive, with pithy pears, and a slightly savoury, floral character, too.

The grapes for the Vie di Romans Chardonnay are sourced from the estate’s 10.75-hectare vineyard in the commune of Mariano del Friuli. The wine spends 9 months on its lees in French oak barrels which gives the wine added texture and creaminess. Quite ripe and hints of tropical fruits are supported by toast and vanilla, as well as white blossom and flesh peach notes.

This family estate based in FriulI, northern Italy sources fruit for this wine from the 12.5-hectare Piere vineyard in the commune of Mariano del Friuli. Having spent 8 months on its lees in stainless steel, the wine is fruit forward and displays wonderful purity. Passionfruit, citrus and grassy herbal notes combine with a zesty acidity and attractive phenolic grip on the palate.

Guidalberto is a second wine that gets better and better. This 2020 is a real taste of one of Italy's greatest estates, and is not to be missed. Secure it while you can.

The Pieropan family were the first to bottle and release a single vineyard wine in the region, this was the Calvarino vineyard that is planted to 60 year old vines on very steep slopes. The basalt soils help to produce a wine that has great finesse and a saline core. Expect florals, red apple, ginger and honey notes as well as a zesty acidity with herbal hints and an attractive phenolic grip.

The Pieropan family were the first to bottle and release a single vineyard wine in the region, this was the Calvarino vineyard that is planted to 60 year old vines on very steep slopes. The basalt soils help to produce a wine that has great finesse and a saline core. Expect florals, red apple, ginger and honey notes as well as a zesty acidity with herbal hints and an attractive phenolic grip.

A mini Ornellaia, this second wine is made up of a Bordeaux blend of Merlot (44%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Cabernet Franc (13%) and Petit Verdot (13%). 2020 saw rather changeable weather with very long periods followed by heavy rainfall and drops in temperature, resulting in a longer harvest than usual to enable the different varieties were picked at optimum ripeness and condition. A combination of hand picking, sorting tables at the winery as well as the addition of an optical sorter in 2016 has resulted in a wine that is of impressive quality. The wine is aged in French barriques (25% new) for 15 months before being bottled and remains in bottle for a futher 6 months prior to release. The winemaker believes the 2020 is reminiscent of 2018, 2013 and 2010, and having tasted all three recently, this wine is destined for great things. Expect red plums and red wild berry perfume, combined with liquorice spice and herbal undertones.

A tiny production white, made from 30+ year old Chardonnay from the Pira Vineyard, alongside a little white Nebbiolo. This is exotic and generous, with lots of texture and almond kernel on the finish.

This wine displays bright red and black berried fruits as well as licorice and cinnamon spice notes that persist on the palate. The tannins are fine grained with a pleasant grip that provides the perfect structure, alongside the refreshing and juicy acidity.

From one of the oldest winemaking families in Italy, this Chardonnay is produced from the highly regarded Bussia vineyard. Having fermented and aged for 7 months in French barriques this wine has a breadth and hint of sweet spice that balances with ripe stone fruits and white blossom aromas. The acidity is crisp and refreshing and supports the wine's concentrated core that will enable this wine to develop and age in the bottle for some time to come.

The 2019 Fonte Canale is a revelation – it’s easily the finest Trebbiano d’Abruzzo we’ve tried. It’s sourced from 80-90 year old vines planted on limestone soils, uses only free run juice, and is fermented with natural yeasts in stainless steel tanks. This is pure, precise, and citrusy with a nutty and expansive texture and a finish that seems to go on for days. It’s a virtuosic performance from winemaker Cristiana Tiberio, worthy of Paganini himself. Brava!

The Cicala comes from vines of 50-55 years old from iron rich soils within the Bussia vineyard. Wild strawberries, blood orange and red cherries are supported with liquorice and clove spice. The tannins are evident and need time to resolve, however this wine has the concentration and structure to allow the wine to develop and age to make old bones.

This Nerello comes from a special 1.5 hectare parcel in the Acuria Contrada, Sopra il Pozzo (“above the well”) that is dominated by volcanic sand and layers of stone named locally as "Rifusa". Following various soil studies by Alberto Graci, this plot was seen as being able to offer a unique expression of the terroir and grape. A wine that is only produced in exceptional vintages. The wine is layered with red berries and spice, with hints of smoke and wild flowers. The palate is gloriously fresh and vibrant.

The 2018 Cepparello is another astonishing wine from this great estate. Detailed, with notes of wild cherries, citrus lift, and plenty of vibrant spice, the palate is fine boned and wonderfully fresh. Once again shows why this is one of Tuscany's most prized wines.

Vajra’s ode to the wines of the past, this is a blend of vineyards. There’s a softness and easiness here: a freshness and lift alongside the easygoing character of the vintage. A simply delicious, easy to try Barolo.

The 2019 has been described as one the best vintages ever made at the estate. 100% Sangiovese, this is a wine that oozes the true soul and character of the property. Expect cherries, red plums and bright red berry fruits supported by clove and liquorice spice with hints of tobacco. The tannins are very structured, so would merit a little ageing or time in the decanter in youth.

From a single vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, this shows talc-like tannins, amazing purity, and lots of lifted citrus fruit, alongside dark berry fruit, and an incredible amount of energy. Beautifully balanced.

This indigenous variety spends 8 months in large cask prior to bottling. There are wild strawberry and black pepper notes with hints of liquorice spice. Tannins are chalky and firm and the palate is silky with purple fruits that persist on the finish.

Intense and powerful on the nose, this 2017 Saffredi is masterful. Careful selection ensured that the fruit remained fresh, with crunchy dark berries, and notes of sea spray, tapenade, and spice. The palate is so refined and elegant, with a finish that lasts for minutes.

From the oldest Sangiovese vines, with a little Petit Verdot in the blend, this is ample, generous, and utterly beguiling. There's a balance of ripe fruits, citrus, and plenty of spice, and incredibly silky tannins. This is long, mineral, and incredibly high-class. Outstanding.

This takes its name from the road that backs onto the winery, but is in fact a blend of vineyards. Energy and power, with plenty of focussed tannins and a wonderfully saline finish. So drinkable, and so long.

Fossacolle is in the careful hands of Stefano Bambagioni who has brought a new lease of life into this 4 hectare property. The Riserva isn't produced every year and only small volumes are made with a selection of the best plots from some of their older plantings. Savoury in its profile with coffee, black olive and clove notes with hints of dried red berry fruits.

Winemaker and owner of this impressive family estate, Pedro Rodríguez, has brought this estate to the forefront of high quality Spanish wines and is considered a pioneer of the Ribeira Sacra region. The blend is largely Mencía with 15% Galician indigenous varieties Caiño, Sousón, Mouraton, Garnacha Tintorera, Brancellao, Negralada and Alicante Bouchet. Located on steep slate and granite terraces, the grapes are sourced from different plots and vinified separately. The 2022 is a delight of violets, wild flowers, rosemary and graphite aromas that are supported beautifully by a fresh acidity and chalky tannins.

Certainly comparable with the greatest red Burgundy, this is so juicy and intense, with an effortless concentration, lots of spice, and a finish that lasts for minutes. Such a complex wine, and one with remarkable poise. Astonishing.

Winemaker and owner of this impressive family estate, Pedro Rodríguez, has brought this estate to the forefront of high quality Spanish wines and is considered a pioneer of the Ribeira Sacra region. The blend is largely Mencía with 15% Galician indigenous varieties Caiño, Sousón, Mouraton, Garnacha Tintorera, Brancellao, Negralada and Alicante Bouchet. Located on steep slate and granite terraces, the grapes are sourced from different plots and vinified separately. Fresh and lively red berry fruits combined with raspberry and cranberry notes are supported by fine grained tannins and a lively acidity.

The grapes are sourced from five vineyard sites in the hills of Alt Penedès. From 100% Xarel-lo grapes, the wine is aged in a mix of 500 litre French new oak barrels and the rest in concrete eggs for 8 months. Grapefruit pith, fresh apricot and white pear notes. The acidity is lively and there is an attractive phenolic grip on the finish.

Expect bright red berry fruits combined with wild strawberries and a subtle gravelly note that is a nod to the Mencia. Garrigue like notes underpin the aroma profile and the palate is so fine and silky, with the low alcohol (11%)making this a very easy drinking wine. Tannins are fine and well integrated. This is such a delicious wine.

Having spent 24 months in a mix of French and American oak, this more modern style Rioja is displaying attractive purple and black fruit aromas. Notes of cinnamon, coconut and licorice spice. Tannins are fine grained with some grip, yet extremely well integrated given this wine is still so young. There is a red berry fruit concentration on the palate that continues for a long time on the finish and is balanced spectactularly with a lively acidity.

This limited edition Gran Reserva is made from 80% tempranillo, 9% graciano, 9% mazuelo and 2% garnacha. Having spent 27 months in 225-litre American oak barrels, this wine displays attractive sweet spice and dill notes. Expect balsamic and black olive notes as well as bramble and black cherry notes. The tannins are well integrated with perfect ripeness and grip and the palate showcases vibrant and refreshing acidity.

A vineyard that is only 0.73 hectares and sits on the eastern part of the village on very steep terraces, close to Achleiten this cuvée is often more austere than some of the estate’s other wines. It is largely gneiss soils and incredibly poor soils that produce grapes with low yield yet with great concentration. Crushed stones, smoke with ginger and lemon verbena herbal notes. The acidity is crisp and nervy and the length is incredibly long. Would benefit from decanting.

The 2022 vintage from Prager is exceptional and this Grüner displays a wonderful restrained concentration. Expect pear, white peach, white pepper and herbal notes combined with salty minerality and racy acidity.

Planted in the 1930s, this parcel that is trained with poles (hence the Stockkultur’ name) within the middle section of the Achleiten vineyard and is on extremely poor soils on exclusively chalk soils. A wine that is always so concentrated and juicy and displays more tropical aromas, yet is brought sharply into focus with racy acidity and crushed shell minerality.

Steinriegel is to the West of Weissenkirchen on a 4.6 hectare plot that compared to Prager's pther sites contains no gneiss, but is dominated by a distinct and rare white chalk silicate marble. This is a cool site and demonstrates peach, lime and jasmine notes. Subtle ginger spice notes and red apple aromas combine with a juicy core.

Coming from vines in the village of Weissenkirchen and translated as 'behind the castle', this Federspiel level wine at 12.5% is glorious and one that you don't have to wait to drink to appreciate. Red apple and citrus notes are supported by a juicy acidity. The palate has an approachable creaminess, yet it is carefully balanced with a grapefruit pithiness on the finish that provides clarity and focus.

An intense but approachable Spätlese from this master of the Riesling grape.

The Riesling is sourced from around the village of Gonnheim. All the fruit is hand harvested from biodynamically and organically farmed vineyards. Ginger, slate and citrus driven with notes of white peach and apricot. The acidity is zesty and whilst I have no doubt this wine will age, it is drinking beautifully now.

Bollinger's late disgorgement release from the celebrated 1996 vintage.

Philipponnat hold back a proportion of each vintage from their outstanding single vineyard Clos des Goisses, and age it sur lattes in their cellars. For those who love the complexity and vinous power of old Champagnes, there is nothing better.

Pol Roger's classic N/V blend has a huge following, and with good reason. It is one of the most finely balanced and delicious grandes marques on the market. It's a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It is one of the most complex and rewarding non-vintage Champagnes you'll find, with creamy citrus notes on the nose, and a crisp orchard fruit palate with savoury minerality on the long, elegant finish. This is based on the excellent 2017 vintage.

Pol Roger's latest vintage release is an absolute joy. It's vibrant and refreshing, with a creamy, smooth texture, and Pol's signature generosity of depth. It is a classic blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from grand and premier crus sites across the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs. It's got the delicious biscuity notes of ageing on lees, with the crunch of orchard fruits on the palate. It's already in the prime of its drinking, with the poise and structure for cellaring.

This 2015 from Pol Roger has a beautifully precise, delicate nose with floral notes taking the lead and orchard notes underneath. It is a classic blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from grands and premiers crus sites. The palate is fresh and agile, with just a hint of brioche, biscuity richness, which should emerge further with bottle age. Overall it is one of the prettiest, most subtle, and enticing releases from Pol Roger in recent years.