Côte de Nuits 2021: New Releases

Bruno Clair has an impressive 10 hectares in his home village of Marsannay. He bottles five separate cuvées, including this wonderful iteration from a single parcel at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its name (meaning “fat heads”) refers not to anybody involved in its cultivation, but rather the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2021 it is muscular and tightly coiled, reminiscent of Gevrey-Chambertin. It has fantastic fruit concentration, and with the structure and freshness to age wonderfully. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. Arthur uses up to 30% whole bunch on the young vine parcel, which he vinifies separately from the older vines, blending later to build layers of complexity. It has a fresh red fruit aroma - cherries and wild strawberries - with tightly-coiled tannins giving the palate a nervous yet bright energy. Superb.

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, and were planted in 1902. It’s an east-facing vineyard that catches the sun all day in its amphitheatre-like form. This precious site was Bruno’s father’s favourite, and is now his son’s, Arthur’s, favourite too. This is beautifully aromatic, with cranberries, cinnamon spice, and floral lift on the nose, and some pure and elegant fruit on the palate. Complex, harmonious and saline. A beautiful wine and a highlight in 2021.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. The wine has an incredible concentration expressed with exquisite finesse. This is absolutely delicious, with red-fruit power, fine tannins and mineral length. Clos du Fonteny is always one of Bruno’s personal favourites.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard as equal to the Gevrey grands crus. The Clairs refer to it as ‘the Prince of Gevrey’. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine shows so much depth and suave elegance on the palate. Its cool, controlled nose suggests the moderating influence from the valley breeze. Such luxuriously, silky tannins. Profoundly refined and elegant.

Clos de Bèze is a slightly steeper and warmer site than Chambertin, and the potential heights of complexity and concentration it can produce are remarkable. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s, which are affectionately still referred to as the young plants. The old vines produce a wine that is perfumed on the nose and gourmand on the palate. It has an almost endless, saline finish, with beautiful supple tannins.

Bruno Clair’s is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest falls within Chambolle-Musigny’s borders). It also happens to be one of the grand cru’s consistently finest examples. The 2021 shows an irresistible concentration of red fruits. The tannins are supple and rounded. There is an unbelievable saline length here. This should enjoy an exciting evolution in bottle!