Côte de Beaune 2021: New Releases

This is the defining wine of this famous grand cru, the one to which everyone looks as the quintessential Corton-Charlemagne. The west-facing aspect of the hill means the vines enjoy the long rays of the afternoon sun, making for rich textures and a sumptuous depth of fruit.

A blend of two parcels and now christened ‘Les Gryphées’ in honour of the fossilised oyster shells that abound. . 55% comes from a village parcel, while the other 45% comes from the 1er Cru Clos Rousseau vineyard, which is an extension of the vineyard of the same name in Santenay. This cuvée is so bright and energetic, with a crunchy texture and well-handled tannins, giving it bite, without any hard edges. This is vibrant, red-fruited, light-bodied, crisp Pinot Noir.

The new Santenay from Champs Claudes, En Boichot and Prarons Dessous is named after its Jurassic geology. It also contains whatever Les Hâtes David was able to rescue this yearl. It is so red-fruited and floral - bursting with grenadine and red currant aromas. The palate is packed with concentrated red fruit laced with a touch of spice leading to a long, elegant finish. The floral character is a natural expression of these sites, and makes it a delicious introduction to the village for first-timers.

This was a stand-out among a strong line up of premiers crus in David’s cellar. It comes from a parcel which has some very hard limestone bedrock, though the wine is marked by its surprising suppleness. Elegant and alluring with spiciness and minerality entwined with small flowers and lovely weight, this has beautiful depth and an enchanting, beguiling, mineral, pure, long finish. This is delicious now but has the depth and concentration to improve even further in years to come.

Due to the miniscule yields in 2021, Alain has blended all four of the estate’s Premiers Crus (Folatières, Clavoillon, Pucelles and Champ Gain) together to make one cuvee. Elegant and packed full of juicy stone fruit and citrus aromas. The palate has a fantastic line of acidity running through, which gives this great energy. Well-balanced, with impressive concentration and a deliciously long, fine, saline finish.

Charles Ballot is making some of the greatest Chardonnays in Burgundy these days, and his Bourgogne Blanc is an excellent place to get a taste of the style on offer at this address. 80% of the fruit is sourced from his home village of Meursault, with the balance coming from Puligny-Montrachet.

The Ballot-Millot vines sit at the top of the parcel, giving this Charmes atypical minerality, setting it apart from the richer examples produced further down the slope.

This is the wine Alex is most proud of in his cellar, which is telling praise. This is because it offers the complexity and depth on par with some other producers’ premiers crus. Its production accounts for 40% of the domaine’s output, being drawn from many sites across the village, half of which are tucked up in the pocket of village vines that hug the premiers crus. The other half comes from the village’s border with Puligny-Montrachet.

As the name suggests, En Bignon is planted at 421 metres on red clay soils and comes from older vines in one of the domaine’s three large vineyards above Nantoux. It has an almost Nebbiolo-like purity, with refined tannins and loads of freshness and charm. It has plenty of vibrant red cherry, red currant and plum on the nose with a splash of blood orange too.The fruit here is lively and juicy with an impressive energy, making it a joy today but this will age beautifully, too.

Le Clou is planted at a precise elevation of 377 metres on chalky, rocky soil. Packed full of red cherry and peppery aromas, this is mineral, concentrated and has an impressive purity of fruit on the palate. This needs time to unfurl but the potential is considerable.

This premier cru shares borders with two grands crus: Le Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. It takes its name from the white, chalky soils found here, and it delivers everything in the glass you might expect from such a superb position and soil-type. It has astonishing concentration, and is the most mineral and complex of the premiers crus in Bruno’s cellar. It’s a tiny parcel and low yields means it is made in very small volumes. Enthralling and supremely balanced.

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable. As ever, it is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep, well-drained, with very limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the savoury structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant, silky and inviting in its youth.

This Volnay is so vibrant and aromatically spiced through with wild strawberry and cherry fruit. It is a blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. There is a softer texture to the fruit. This is a finessed and balanced Burgundy with just enough of that sweet, scented fruit extracted to make it both tender and mineral.

La Maltroie is located just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village. The domaine owns two parcels, one of 0.56 hectares and the other 0.17 hectares. Céline says it is always approachable, and in 2021 it has a superb concentration of nectarine fruit and a fantastic line of acidity. It is slightly more weighty than the village wine, with an added level of depth. It’s a great buy, from a domaine at the top of its game.

Caillerets takes its name from the tiny stones that litter the vineyard’s soil, and it’s one of the village’s most highly prized sites. This 2021 is generous with a seductive side, Céline commenting that it is much more open after 1 year than the 2020. A wonderfully rounded mid-palate is packed full of concentrated nectarine fruit, kept in check with a racy, fresh acidity. The finish is saline, with serious and persistent length.

This is indisputably one of the greatest premiers crus of Chassagne, and 2020 will be one of the final vintages for some time. From 2022 the old, low yielding vines will be grubbed up for replanting. Fontaine-Gagnard has two parcels, both east-facing and steep, with well draining soil. The vineyard is right next to a small forest, and apparently you can often see animals venturing into the vines. Only 300 bottles were produced in 2021.

We did not taste Le Montrachet as just 300 bottles will be produced.

The Grand Cru vineyard of Bâtard-Montrachet lies between the picturesque villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, home to the world's greatest white wines. Everything about this wine screams Grand Cru, from the elegant, enthralling nose of orchard fruit to the concentrated,weighty, energy-driven palate. It’s an astonishingly striking wine.

For many, this is the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines around 80. Their concentration and natural complexity are honed through the use of some whole bunch in this cuvée. It is a precise and exquisite expression, whose delicate power should not be underestimated. Ethereal.

This has the seductive nose of sweet red berry and cherry fruit and floral lift we love in Volnay. The site’s generous top soil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay premiers crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a gorgeous, luscious, sappy texture on the palate. Cellar for a few years, then don’t hold back.

This Volnay is pale, fragrant, strawberry-scented, and a true success story of the 2021 vintage. It’s a blend of two parcels: the evocatively named Les Famines, whose paucity of soil makes the roots dig deep; and a small dash of a tiny lieu-dit, La Gigotte, which is nestled just beneath Mitans premier cru, and lifts this village wine up a notch. Grapes from both parcels were entirely destemmed, and the wine has a silky, agile, old-school charm that opens up as soon as you pull the cork.

Like the Volnay Taillepieds, this is one of the smaller cuvées in the Buffet stable. It comes from the upper part of the vineyard, and is a stylish, seductive wine with a powerful, deep, and muscular drive. Its one-hundred-year-old vines are responsible for its dense layers of complexity. Unlike some of the Volnay premiers crus from this domaine, this wine will need some time, so tuck it away for a few years.

Les Aubues is a parcel within Puligny’s excellent Enseignères, just below Bâtard-Montrachet. Les Enseignères has long been on the radar of collectors as one of the sweetest spots for any village wine on the whole Côte. The wine is, quite simply, exhilarating. Slightly reductive, stony, textured, and vibrant, but with a silkiness and saltiness on the palate that makes it stand out. Fantastic.

Le Charmois is on a hill just next to Chassagne-Montrachet’s 1er Cru Les Chaumées and this cuvée comes from six parcels in the same plot. Its cool, poor limestone soil makes for a energetic, vibrant wine with great density of red apple fruit and a superb savoury freshness. Textured and elegant, with a long, fresh finish. Delicious and approachable now, there is also so much potential here for the future.

The Bachelets have four parcels in this premier cru, the oldest of which were planted in 1927 and 1960. It carries the superb concentration of old-vine fruit, with citrus oil purity and juicy nectarine freshness. On the nose there is a seductive, struck match note. The wine is both harmonious and balanced and serious and tighly coiled. Real depth and precision here.

There are many who consider Bachelet’s Blanchot-Dessus on a par with its grand cru neighbours, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet and Le Montrachet. The vines were planted in 1927, and the old-vine wine is nothing short of magical in 2021. You will struggle to find a better premier cru than this.

The Boillot family have two parcels here, which together amount to just over one hectare and have an average age of 70 years old. This is scented with peachy stone fruit and pithy citrus notes, and the palate is tightly coiled with an elegant mineral intensity running though. This is Puligny at its best.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With old vines (as old as 70 years old) planted on the clay soil pockets from 5 different parcels around the village, he has produced a great example again in 2021. This old vine cuvée is perfumed with rich, red-fruit and spice, and has a pleasing sour cherry freshness on the palate.

Champs Claude comes from 4 different parcels of vines in Santenay, with an average age of 60 years. This is classic Pinot Noir - full of subtle, red fruit on the nose and fresh, balanced with a great energy on the palate. Brilliant value.

This excellent vineyard is on the lower slopes of Puligny, just above Les Enseignères, and directly below the grands crus. It is again a highlight in 2021 - balanced, refined, amazing stone fruit purity, fresh acidity, great precision and texture. A joy.

This is a fabulous example of what Pinot Noir can do in Chassagne. The poor soils of Clos St Jean have long been one of the hotspots for Pinot in the village, and Jean-Marc counts himself lucky to have inherited this parcel of 100+ year old vines. He likes to make a gourmand style you can approach from youth, but don’t let that make you think this is lacking in concentration or sophistication. This 2021 is sitting emphatically in the elegant red fruit spectrum, with pretty floral notes on the nose and a silky, fine-boned tannin structure. This Clos St Jean shows a level of freshness and detail that lifts it up to great heights.

Les Vergers sits at the northern border with St-Aubin, on the slope just above Les Chenevottes. The wine has buttery, almondy hints on the nose , detailed with white peach. Open and charming, there is elegant fruit concentration and a fantastic saline finish on the palate.

Les Chenevottes has slightly deeper soils than some neighbouring vineyards, and the 70-year-old vines, with their deep roots, have more safely endured the extreme weather of the past few years than some others. It is so mineral and precise , with almond and nectarine aromas on the nose, and a compelling, textured finish.

This vineyard bordering Pommard did once produce wines with some robust, muscular tannins. But now that they have reached 70 years old, the father and son team note how much the tannins have begun to soften, and become distinctly finer in recent years. In 2021, this is a little more serious and brooding in character. It’s all about energy and minerality, and at the moment the name feels almost onomatopoeic. Give this time to unfurl.

This is a blend of three parcels: one in Chassagne, one in St-Aubin and one in Puligny, a brilliant example of the Côte de Beaune. In 2021 it is packed with pure and concentrated citrus and peach fruit, creating a vibrant energy to this wine. The palate has a delicious freshness and a supple, elegant balance.

This outstanding premier cru in St-Aubin sits on top of the hill that peaks between Chassagne and St-Aubin, just behind Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. The wine is a blend of five parcels within En Remilly, with different soils and elevation. It expresses the vineyard’s natural tendency to floral, aromatic fruit, with mineral tension underneath. The 2021 is a fuller-bodied expression of the site, with tender, lemony fruit tempered by some crystalline acidity and a fine, persistent finish.

The cuvée is named after Damien and Caroline’s grandmother, Lucie, whose nickname was ‘Luce’. Its personalised moniker hints at how fond the family are of this wine, which is a blend of three parcels in the village. Delicate and refined on the nose with aromas of white blossom, red apple and pear. The palate displays great freshness and balance, and is a fantastic portrait of St-Aubin.

This vineyard straddles the village boundary between Puligny and Chassagne and is well regarded as a top flight village parcel, with the likes of Coche-Dury also producing a single vineyard cuvée from this site. Its position just beneath Bâtard-Montrachet goes a long way in explaining its superior quality. It is detailed, lacey and precise. The 70-year-old vines in this parcel deliver wonderfully sophisticated and complex fruit; its ageing potential for its village status is pretty astonishing. Don’t hesitate to hold for ten years if you can resist.

Vignes Franches lies right in the middle of the Beaune Premiers Crus, bordering Clos des Mouches among several others. The third vintage for this cuvée, it has attractive cherry fruit aromas with an interesting herbal note. There is an elegance and depth to the crunchy, cherry fruit on the palate and a very fine and long saline finish.

The origin of the word "Cras" comes from "rocky hillsides", a term often used to describe a vineyard whose soil is made of rubble and pebbly stones. This parcel's soil is gravelly with a high quality red clay that is very typical of Pommard. Pretty cherry and wild raspberry fruit combine with rose petal on the nose. The fruit continues to sing on the palate and is juicy, sappy and generous with a long, mineral finish. This is lovely.

This is one of Meursault’s finest vineyards, shared amongst some of its greatest growers. Jean-Baptiste owns a 1.5 hectare parcel. Reaching this wine in the tasting marked a gear change - this has so much elegance, texture, precision and length. Outstanding.

This is a blend of their lower-lying parcels of village Volnay plus some 1er Cru Brouillards. This was the only village Volnay the domaine produced in 2021. Lafarge’s Volnay is always so elegant and charming, with a perfumed, concentrated nose, and a smooth and refined frame. The fruit is definitely red here, and the wine feels poised and sweetly ripe, whilst remaining taut and fresh.

Produced in every vintage since the foundation of the domaine, this 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, produced from co-planted vines, is one of Burgundy’s bargains. The vines are now aged between 100 and 103 years. Fortunately they ripen at the same time, and are picked together. The wine has an energetic and fresh sour cherry character, with a light body, and fine-grained slightly crunchy tannins. Delicious

The 2021 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots wafts from the glass with an elegant bouquet of cherries, plums and cranberry fruit. On the palate, it's classic Pinot with slightly crunchy red fruit, terrific depth at the core, silky tannins, and a long, lingering finish.

This well-positioned village parcel, just below Les Champs-Gains, certainly merits being singled out.

This village wine is 100% destemmed and has a sapid, redcurrant, spiced pomegranate character, with long, lightly structured tannins holding it together. This is a great entry point for one of Pommard’s most promising new voices.

First introduced in 2020, this cuvée is a blend of old and young vines mostly coming from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. There's a precise, lean feel to the palate. This is classic Pinot Noir with juicy, bright, smooth red fruit that builds to a long, fresh finish.

Nicolas sees these vineyards, around Corgoloin just south of Nuits St Georges, as the future of his domaine. Land prices here aren’t impossibly high, yet the quality of terroir is terrific. It means he can make this enormously characterful and interesting wine for an outstanding price. The 2021 has a floral, peppery, cherry and damson character, both ripe and with a little crunchy tannic kick.Satisfyingly delicious.

Nicolas has the oldest vines in this highly-rated premier cru. They were planted in 1904, and Nicolas plans to uproot them within the next year because the old vines have become so low-yielding. The wine has powerful and concentrated tannins, fantastic texture and elegant, floral,plummy aromatics to its fruit.

Clos de la Barre is a 2.1 vineyard just behind the domaine which is a monopole of Lafon.

Dominique Lafon declassifies the fruit of young vines grown in the 4 hectare plot into the Volnay, meaning the 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu cuvée is the exclusive product of old vines.

This cuvée has been made by Lafon since 2011, when the domaine bought the 1 hectare parcel. The clay soils make a wonderfully rich wine that never shows any heaviness

The vineyard is just next to Puligny-Montrachet’s 1er Cru Les Combettes, and it shares a little of its neighbour’s nervous tension. It has vines of up to 95 years old.

Monthélie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. With the added generosity of 2020, it's a must-try.

This is a blend of multiple parcels of older vines (that are a minimum of 45 years), which all share in common their mid-slope position. There is quite a lot of flat land and heavy clay at the bottom of Santenay which is less good, so this is an important distinction. These vines are all in the upper part of the village on limestone, and make for an aromatic, fresh, juicy and vibrant red wine packed with crunchy red fruit notes, layered with fine-boned, expressive tannins. Delicious.

Beauregard is one of Santenay’s finest premiers crus, lying at the eastern end of the village, near the border with Chassagne. It’s a particularly picturesque site, with a windmill in the vineyard - a good indication there is a steady breeze here, helping to keep the fruit cool as it matures. The limestone soil gives the wine a freshness and acidity that make it hugely appealing in its youth. This is scented with red berries: cranberries, wild strawberry, red currants. There is such freshness, balance and depth on show here, with a lovely herbal note running through the palate. The tannin structure is particularly fine-grained and supple, and its finish is long and elegant. This is one of the best value reds we tasted in all our time in Burgundy.

The Saint-Romain from Olivier Leflaive comes from two plots, Sous le Château and En Poillange. It's lively and energetic on the nose, with aromas of waxy lemon with a little saline twist. The palate is fresh, precise and linear. This shows the very best of this up-and-coming appellation.

This vineyard is tucked up at the top of the village on the border with Auxey-Duresses. The cooler hilltop position helps the wine retain a terrific mineral drive. Just one barrel was made in 2021. Its 50-year-old vines produce concentrated stone fruit flavours and aromas, that when ripened to perfection, as in 2021, make for a fleshy, full, savoury wine with lots of impact. Wonderful.

This village parcel is in the north of the commune, bordering Puligny-Montrachet. If you were to stand here and turn your gaze up the hill, you’d notice you are spitting distance from Bâtard-Montrachet, with only the thin sliver of Vide Bourse 1er Cru between. This wine has such a satisfyingly silky weight and a pleasing floral note on the nose . Its Chassagne roots show in the slightly nutty, savoury structure, and the influence of Puligny peaks through in the nervous, steely finish. It’s definitely more than an average village wine. Delicious.

You’d expect this wine to be one of the best in the stable: from home turf, made from a magnificent blend of grapes from all but two of the village’s lieux-dits in 2021. It is one of the most complete and compelling portraits of the village you’ll find, and it’s a wine to remind you that these Olivier Leflaive wines are not only the most benchmark example of their appellations, but also some of the most exciting in their category. This is everything Puligny should be, and more: tight, steely, nervous, and in 2021, fabulously concentrated in rich fruit with a long, chalky, mineral finish

Champlots is a steep site, just next to Frionnes, and can be back-breaking work for the pickers. They pick early in the morning here, both to preserve the freshness of the fruit and to give the pickers the benefit of the cooler morning temperatures. The vines are relatively young - just 15 years - and the limestone soils make a charming style of St-Aubin. This was aged in 1 year old oak and only one barrel was made in 2021 compared to six the year before. Slightly richer nose with floral and light spicy notes, this has some deliciously plump lemony fruit, fresh acidity, a mineral core and a lip-smacking saline finish.

This is a top contender for most popular wine on our list, from anywhere in the world. It captures everything we want from a classic Bourgogne Blanc, and its keen price means it sells out every year at en primeur. Most of its fruit is sourced from Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. The 2021 has a waxy lemon intensity on the nose, a great bite of freshness from both acidity and pithy minerality, with just a gentle hint of discreet oak (10-12% new oak this year) supporting in the background. There’s a lovely texture and great energy in this wine. All in all, there’s a lot going on here for a humble Bourgogne. Its following is well deserved.

This is 100% domaine-owned fruit from the tiny clos of just 1.7ha in the climat of Vergers on the Chassagne/St-Aubin border. Just three barrels were made in 2021. The nose is aromatic and attractive with lot’s to entice you in. The palate is elegant, with a powerful yet controlled saline freshness enveloping the concentrated nectarine stone fruit. Delicious.

Like Les Clousots, this is a blend of two sites in Meursault rather than a single lieu-dit. It is a combination of Les Casses Têtes and Les Murgers de Monthélie. This cuvée has been bottled since 1996, and is a cornerstone of the Javillier range. It is always the straightest and more driven of the range. In 2021, this expresses a wonderful honeysuckle, floral and fresh stone fruit bouquet and there is a full and vibrant expression on the impressive finish. As ever, elegant and refined. Leave for a year or two before diving in.