Côte de Beaune 2021: New Releases

2021 sees the second vintage of this cuvée (along with a Savigny-Lès-Beaune). The Chardonnay comes from vineyards in Puligny and old vines in Meursault that are organically and biodynamically farmed and have met Catharina’s high standards. It is a delicious white, full of grippy, saline citrus flavour, and with an enjoyably long and refreshing finish.

As with the 2020, this is made with the ripest third of the grapes undergoing a short period of skin contact maceration. After malolactic fermentation this portion was then blended with the other two thirds, which had been pressed directly after picking. This method gives the wine an edgy, saline freshness, with just a hint of phenolic grip adding an extra dimension and texture to the wine. The Aligoté is the wine Catharina says she always takes to tastings with other growers; her secret weapon, if you will.

Along with the Bourgogne Blanc, this is the second vintage for this cuvée in 2021. It comes from a close friend of Catharina’s, and she is able to administer all the biodynamic treatments to the vines throughout the year. The wine is deliciously peppery and fresh, packed full of cherries and with beautifully refined silky, velvet tannins. Electrifying energy here.

2021 sees the first year of biodynamic farming on this vineyard plot by Catharina. This Gevrey-Chambertin in 2021 is more structured and classic Gevrey in style than in 2020. The tannins are there, but there is a soft, approachability to them, even at this stage. The notes of brambly fruit on the nose are enticing already, but of all the wines in the Horées cellar, I suspect this will enjoy a few years in bottle the most.

This is a particular highpoint in the Horées cellar, but sadly only made in tiny quantities. Deliciously salty, savoury and silky. It is so complete; and combines a weightless flow with real intensity. It is a brilliant example of this premier cru. Snap it up whilst you can.

This is a blend of 30% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Beaune, 15% Gamay from Pommard and 55% Gamay from Fleurie. Previously these Coteaux Bourguignons wines were known as Passetoutgrain; the change in appellation name a few years ago has coincided with a renewed interest in this less common but historic style of red from Burgundy. Some are simple and fruity, others, like this, are more serious, with a savoury density and precision in the fruit. This 2021 has a beautifully spiced, vibrant red cherry energy, with hints of blood-orange, and silky, fine tannins.

Catharina’s 70 year old Bourgogne Rouge vines are in Pommard, and she now does a slightly longer élévage on this than previously. The tannins are so finely knit, and the whole bunch style of winemaking she favours really suits the fruit here, producing a perfumed, chalky, supple wine with a gorgeous herbal, savoury note running through.