Côte de Beaune 2021: New Releases

The Grand Cru vineyard of Bâtard-Montrachet lies between the picturesque villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, home to the world's greatest white wines. Everything about this wine screams Grand Cru, from the elegant, enthralling nose of orchard fruit to the concentrated,weighty, energy-driven palate. It’s an astonishingly striking wine.

We did not taste Le Montrachet as just 300 bottles will be produced.

Criots is a tiny grand cru, just one and a half hectares, making Fontaine-Gagnard one of the largest owners, with one third of a hectare. The south-facing slope, with poor limestone soils, yields a wine with superb power and tension. Yet in spite of the emphatic power, the wine is so balanced, textured and graceful.

La Maltroie is located just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village. The domaine owns two parcels, one of 0.56 hectares and the other 0.17 hectares. Céline says it is always approachable, and in 2021 it has a superb concentration of nectarine fruit and a fantastic line of acidity. It is slightly more weighty than the village wine, with an added level of depth. It’s a great buy, from a domaine at the top of its game.

Fresh and delicious, with silky, almondy fruit, and perfectly pitched new oak (20%). This is abundant with fresh and ripe lemon, and has Chassagne’s signature chiselled texture. As ever, a benchmark Chassagne from one of our favourite producers, and excellent value.

This is indisputably one of the greatest premiers crus of Chassagne, and 2020 will be one of the final vintages for some time. From 2022 the old, low yielding vines will be grubbed up for replanting. Fontaine-Gagnard has two parcels, both east-facing and steep, with well draining soil. The vineyard is right next to a small forest, and apparently you can often see animals venturing into the vines. Only 300 bottles were produced in 2021.

Caillerets takes its name from the tiny stones that litter the vineyard’s soil, and it’s one of the village’s most highly prized sites. This 2021 is generous with a seductive side, Céline commenting that it is much more open after 1 year than the 2020. A wonderfully rounded mid-palate is packed full of concentrated nectarine fruit, kept in check with a racy, fresh acidity. The finish is saline, with serious and persistent length.