Côte de Beaune 2021: New Releases

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable. As ever, it is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep, well-drained, with very limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the savoury structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant, silky and inviting in its youth.

This Volnay is so vibrant and aromatically spiced through with wild strawberry and cherry fruit. It is a blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. There is a softer texture to the fruit. This is a finessed and balanced Burgundy with just enough of that sweet, scented fruit extracted to make it both tender and mineral.

This has an immediate and inviting energy. Pretty green orchard fruit and pithy lemon aromas greet you on the nose.. Fresh lemon sherbet flavours are complemented by touches of hazelnut and vanilla. This is fresh with a long, textured, saline finish. Brilliant value.

Auxey-Duresses is a relatively unknown village of the Côte de Beaune, tucked up above Meursault, next to Monthelie, on the way to St Romain. This anonymity is in spite of its association with Lalou Bize-Leroy. Comte Armand's vines - in lieu-dit Largillas - sit just above her Les Clous vines. Largillas gives the most spectacular views of the pretty village, and have an enviable mid-slope position for a village parcel. It is always one of the best value, most characterful, and fun reds on our list, and thus a veritable hidden gem. So juicy, energetic and bright but with plenty of body. This is a pleasure to drink.

Les Frémiets sits on the border with Pommard, and the wine often shows the character of both villages. In 2021, this shows more of its Volnay designation. It is deliciously floral, gourmand, and delicately plush. Its high proportion of old vines make it concentrated and deep. It displays effortless drive and energy and will only be more spectacular with age.

This is not a small vineyard. Indeed, at 5.23 hectares it is one of the largest monopole vineyards in Burgundy, and certainly one of the most celebrated in the region. The high proportion of old vines - some past their centenary year - means low yields are the norm. And demand is such that even in spite of its size, this wine regularly sells out early on. In a vintage like 2021 where volumes are considerably down, moving early would be a wise move. And you won’t regret it: this is a dazzling example of the Clos, and yet another instance for Paul Zinetti to rewrite the cliché that Pommard is muscular and rustic only: this is pure, elegant, thrillingly fresh, complex and intense, with detail and nuance. This is truly one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.