Côte de Beaune 2021: New Releases

The new Santenay from Champs Claudes, En Boichot and Prarons Dessous is named after its Jurassic geology. It also contains whatever Les Hâtes David was able to rescue this yearl. It is so red-fruited and floral - bursting with grenadine and red currant aromas. The palate is packed with concentrated red fruit laced with a touch of spice leading to a long, elegant finish. The floral character is a natural expression of these sites, and makes it a delicious introduction to the village for first-timers.

A blend of two parcels and now christened ‘Les Gryphées’ in honour of the fossilised oyster shells that abound. . 55% comes from a village parcel, while the other 45% comes from the 1er Cru Clos Rousseau vineyard, which is an extension of the vineyard of the same name in Santenay. This cuvée is so bright and energetic, with a crunchy texture and well-handled tannins, giving it bite, without any hard edges. This is vibrant, red-fruited, light-bodied, crisp Pinot Noir.

The plot of Charmes in Puligny is a continuation of 1er Cru Charmes in Meursault, and shares many of its characteristics, like the light, fine, stony soils. There is a nervous tension on the palate at first, but this is backed up with delicate stone fruit and citrus peel flavours underneath, which will undoubtedly come to the fore as the wine evolves. Plenty of bright, fresh citrus energy and a charming floral note. Great value.

This is the wine Alex is most proud of in his cellar, which is telling praise. This is because it offers the complexity and depth on par with some other producers’ premiers crus. Its production accounts for 40% of the domaine’s output, being drawn from many sites across the village, half of which are tucked up in the pocket of village vines that hug the premiers crus. The other half comes from the village’s border with Puligny-Montrachet.

Le Clou is planted at a precise elevation of 377 metres on chalky, rocky soil. Packed full of red cherry and peppery aromas, this is mineral, concentrated and has an impressive purity of fruit on the palate. This needs time to unfurl but the potential is considerable.

As the name suggests, En Bignon is planted at 421 metres on red clay soils and comes from older vines in one of the domaine’s three large vineyards above Nantoux. It has an almost Nebbiolo-like purity, with refined tannins and loads of freshness and charm. It has plenty of vibrant red cherry, red currant and plum on the nose with a splash of blood orange too.The fruit here is lively and juicy with an impressive energy, making it a joy today but this will age beautifully, too.

From young vines with an average age of 7 years, planted at altitude and partly aged in an old barrel from 1998 belonging to his predecessor Didier Montchovet (the year that France won the World Cup!) this wine has a joyful freshness and purity of fruit. Delicate, yet ripe aromas of red plum and damson continue on the palate. The fine-boned tannins interplay perfectly with a long, mineral finish. Simply delicious Pinot Noir.

This is a fantastic example of village Chassagne, with extremely expressive nectarine fruit character and a bright, energetic palate. It gets its intensity from the old vines (up to 66 years old in parts) from some nine parcels scattered across the village. A little touch of new oak gives it structure and support. Perfect.

Fresh and delicious, with silky, almondy fruit, and perfectly pitched new oak (20%). This is abundant with fresh and ripe lemon, and has Chassagne’s signature chiselled texture. As ever, a benchmark Chassagne from one of our favourite producers, and excellent value.

Le Charmois is on a hill just next to Chassagne-Montrachet’s 1er Cru Les Chaumées and this cuvée comes from six parcels in the same plot. Its cool, poor limestone soil makes for a energetic, vibrant wine with great density of red apple fruit and a superb savoury freshness. Textured and elegant, with a long, fresh finish. Delicious and approachable now, there is also so much potential here for the future.

Les Aubues is a parcel within Puligny’s excellent Enseignères, just below Bâtard-Montrachet. Les Enseignères has long been on the radar of collectors as one of the sweetest spots for any village wine on the whole Côte. The wine is, quite simply, exhilarating. Slightly reductive, stony, textured, and vibrant, but with a silkiness and saltiness on the palate that makes it stand out. Fantastic.

With seven parcels scattered across three hectares, of which five are located in Enseignères (a highly-regarded vineyard that touches the grands crus), this Puligny is one of the most complete and quintessential we know. This year it also includes the three buckets that were salvaged from La Garenne. 2021 is another benchmark vintage here, delivering both richness and freshness. It is packed with peach, white flowers and a gunflint character, and a wonderful saline thread of acidity. Great value.

This excellent vineyard is on the lower slopes of Puligny, just above Les Enseignères, and directly below the grands crus. It is again a highlight in 2021 - balanced, refined, amazing stone fruit purity, fresh acidity, great precision and texture. A joy.

This is from three of the village’s best communal sites: Les Pierres (94-year-old vines), Mazures (40+), and Houillères (30+). The younger vines give lift, elegance and a vibrant drive, while the older vines give depth and power. In 2021, it is lightly floral and peachy on the nose, with a fresh yet textured palate. The finish is long, fine and saline.

This is one of the gems on our list: it may be village on paper, but this exceptionally well-placed parcel - an east-facing limestone vineyard that extends just beyond the band of premiers crus - delivers well beyond its status in the glass. In 2021, it has both spicy and floral notes on the nose, a thrilling peachy definition and that great Meursault structure - plenty of ripeness combined with great energy and salinity on the finish.

The Lafarge parcels lie on the Volnay side of the village, naturally. This is the only Meursault cuvée made in 2021. It is has a pretty floral, honeycomb, pear and white peach nose. The palate is textured with a bright freshness, and a long, sophisticated saline length.

This well-positioned village parcel, just below Les Champs-Gains, certainly merits being singled out.

Nicolas sees these vineyards, around Corgoloin just south of Nuits St Georges, as the future of his domaine. Land prices here aren’t impossibly high, yet the quality of terroir is terrific. It means he can make this enormously characterful and interesting wine for an outstanding price. The 2021 has a floral, peppery, cherry and damson character, both ripe and with a little crunchy tannic kick.Satisfyingly delicious.

These 3 parcels of vines are between 50-70 years old, and Nicolas has used 100% whole bunch on this wine, giving it a kirsch/cranberry fruit character. The tannins are really quite crunchy and energetic in their youth, but will stand it in good stead for ageing.

Clos de la Barre is a 2.1 vineyard just behind the domaine which is a monopole of Lafon.

This is a blend of multiple parcels of older vines (that are a minimum of 45 years), which all share in common their mid-slope position. There is quite a lot of flat land and heavy clay at the bottom of Santenay which is less good, so this is an important distinction. These vines are all in the upper part of the village on limestone, and make for an aromatic, fresh, juicy and vibrant red wine packed with crunchy red fruit notes, layered with fine-boned, expressive tannins. Delicious.

Beauregard is one of Santenay’s finest premiers crus, lying at the eastern end of the village, near the border with Chassagne. It’s a particularly picturesque site, with a windmill in the vineyard - a good indication there is a steady breeze here, helping to keep the fruit cool as it matures. The limestone soil gives the wine a freshness and acidity that make it hugely appealing in its youth. Where the Vieilles Vignes is all about black fruits, this is scented with red berries: cranberries and red currants. Its tannin structure is particularly fine-grained, and its finish is long and graceful.

This delicious white comes from a 6 hectare plot grown on limestone soils. This is a new cuvée for Lay & Wheeler this year and one we are delighted to introduce. Aromatic with notes of freshly cut green apple on the nose. The palate is beautifully balanced, packed with juicy apple and citrus fruit, a lovely line of fresh acidity and a long, saline finish. Fantastic!

2021 sees the second vintage of this cuvée (along with a Savigny-Lès-Beaune). The Chardonnay comes from vineyards in Puligny and old vines in Meursault that are organically and biodynamically farmed and have met Catharina’s high standards. It is a delicious white, full of grippy, saline citrus flavour, and with an enjoyably long and refreshing finish.