Côte de Beaune 2021: New Releases

The new Santenay from Champs Claudes, En Boichot and Prarons Dessous is named after its Jurassic geology. It also contains whatever Les Hâtes David was able to rescue this yearl. It is so red-fruited and floral - bursting with grenadine and red currant aromas. The palate is packed with concentrated red fruit laced with a touch of spice leading to a long, elegant finish. The floral character is a natural expression of these sites, and makes it a delicious introduction to the village for first-timers.

A blend of two parcels and now christened ‘Les Gryphées’ in honour of the fossilised oyster shells that abound. . 55% comes from a village parcel, while the other 45% comes from the 1er Cru Clos Rousseau vineyard, which is an extension of the vineyard of the same name in Santenay. This cuvée is so bright and energetic, with a crunchy texture and well-handled tannins, giving it bite, without any hard edges. This is vibrant, red-fruited, light-bodied, crisp Pinot Noir.

This was a stand-out among a strong line up of premiers crus in David’s cellar. It comes from a parcel which has some very hard limestone bedrock, though the wine is marked by its surprising suppleness. Elegant and alluring with spiciness and minerality entwined with small flowers and lovely weight, this has beautiful depth and an enchanting, beguiling, mineral, pure, long finish. This is delicious now but has the depth and concentration to improve even further in years to come.

Le Clou is planted at a precise elevation of 377 metres on chalky, rocky soil. Packed full of red cherry and peppery aromas, this is mineral, concentrated and has an impressive purity of fruit on the palate. This needs time to unfurl but the potential is considerable.

As the name suggests, En Bignon is planted at 421 metres on red clay soils and comes from older vines in one of the domaine’s three large vineyards above Nantoux. It has an almost Nebbiolo-like purity, with refined tannins and loads of freshness and charm. It has plenty of vibrant red cherry, red currant and plum on the nose with a splash of blood orange too.The fruit here is lively and juicy with an impressive energy, making it a joy today but this will age beautifully, too.

From young vines with an average age of 7 years, planted at altitude and partly aged in an old barrel from 1998 belonging to his predecessor Didier Montchovet (the year that France won the World Cup!) this wine has a joyful freshness and purity of fruit. Delicate, yet ripe aromas of red plum and damson continue on the palate. The fine-boned tannins interplay perfectly with a long, mineral finish. Simply delicious Pinot Noir.

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable. As ever, it is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep, well-drained, with very limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the savoury structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant, silky and inviting in its youth.

This Volnay is so vibrant and aromatically spiced through with wild strawberry and cherry fruit. It is a blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. There is a softer texture to the fruit. This is a finessed and balanced Burgundy with just enough of that sweet, scented fruit extracted to make it both tender and mineral.

Auxey-Duresses is a relatively unknown village of the Côte de Beaune, tucked up above Meursault, next to Monthelie, on the way to St Romain. This anonymity is in spite of its association with Lalou Bize-Leroy. Comte Armand's vines - in lieu-dit Largillas - sit just above her Les Clous vines. Largillas gives the most spectacular views of the pretty village, and have an enviable mid-slope position for a village parcel. It is always one of the best value, most characterful, and fun reds on our list, and thus a veritable hidden gem. So juicy, energetic and bright but with plenty of body. This is a pleasure to drink.

Les Frémiets sits on the border with Pommard, and the wine often shows the character of both villages. In 2021, this shows more of its Volnay designation. It is deliciously floral, gourmand, and delicately plush. Its high proportion of old vines make it concentrated and deep. It displays effortless drive and energy and will only be more spectacular with age.

This is not a small vineyard. Indeed, at 5.23 hectares it is one of the largest monopole vineyards in Burgundy, and certainly one of the most celebrated in the region. The high proportion of old vines - some past their centenary year - means low yields are the norm. And demand is such that even in spite of its size, this wine regularly sells out early on. In a vintage like 2021 where volumes are considerably down, moving early would be a wise move. And you won’t regret it: this is a dazzling example of the Clos, and yet another instance for Paul Zinetti to rewrite the cliché that Pommard is muscular and rustic only: this is pure, elegant, thrillingly fresh, complex and intense, with detail and nuance. This is truly one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

For many, this is the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines around 80. Their concentration and natural complexity are honed through the use of some whole bunch in this cuvée. It is a precise and exquisite expression, whose delicate power should not be underestimated. Ethereal.

This has the seductive nose of sweet red berry and cherry fruit and floral lift we love in Volnay. The site’s generous top soil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay premiers crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a gorgeous, luscious, sappy texture on the palate. Cellar for a few years, then don’t hold back.

Like the Volnay Taillepieds, this is one of the smaller cuvées in the Buffet stable. It comes from the upper part of the vineyard, and is a stylish, seductive wine with a powerful, deep, and muscular drive. Its one-hundred-year-old vines are responsible for its dense layers of complexity. Unlike some of the Volnay premiers crus from this domaine, this wine will need some time, so tuck it away for a few years.

This Volnay is pale, fragrant, strawberry-scented, and a true success story of the 2021 vintage. It’s a blend of two parcels: the evocatively named Les Famine, whose paucity of soil makes the roots dig deep; and a small dash of a tiny lieu-dit, La Gigotte, which is nestled just beneath Mitans premier cru, and lifts this village wine up a notch. Grapes from both parcels were entirely destemmed, and the wine has a silky, agile, old-school charm that opens up as soon as you pull the cork.

This cuvée is made in tiny volumes. It has the seductive nose of sweet, ripe berry and cherry fruit and the floral lift we love in Volnay. Its one third whole bunch adds a plush, pillowy texture that caresses the structured backbone of this wine. Elegant, fine and stunningly complex. This is a truly great expression of the village.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With old vines (as old as 70 years old) planted on the clay soil pockets from 5 different parcels around the village, he has produced a great example again in 2021. This old vine cuvée is perfumed with rich, red-fruit and spice, and has a pleasing sour cherry freshness on the palate.

Champs Claude comes from 4 different parcels of vines in Santenay, with an average age of 60 years. This is classic Pinot Noir - full of subtle, red fruit on the nose and fresh, balanced with a great energy on the palate. Brilliant value.

This is a fabulous example of what Pinot Noir can do in Chassagne. The poor soils of Clos St Jean have long been one of the hotspots for Pinot in the village, and Jean-Marc counts himself lucky to have inherited this parcel of 100+ year old vines. He likes to make a gourmand style you can approach from youth, but don’t let that make you think this is lacking in concentration or sophistication. This 2021 is sitting emphatically in the elegant red fruit spectrum, with pretty floral notes on the nose and a silky, fine-boned tannin structure. This Clos St Jean shows a level of freshness and detail that lifts it up to great heights.

This vineyard bordering Pommard did once produce wines with some robust, muscular tannins. But now that they have reached 70 years old, the father and son team note how much the tannins have begun to soften, and become distinctly finer in recent years. In 2021, this is a little more serious and brooding in character. It’s all about energy and minerality, and at the moment the name feels almost onomatopoeic. Give this time to unfurl.

Les Pruliers, on the south side of Nuits-Saint-Georges, was seriously impacted by the frost, with just one and a half barrels produced in 2021. That’s given an incredible density and concentration, while it remains incredibly balanced. The fruit has a great pinosity, with a fine structure and vivid energy. A highlight.

Les Angles is a classic Volnay that is all about purity and precision. In 2021, it’s an incredibly focussed, pretty wine. It has a lovely perfume and elegant fruit on the nose. Extremely pinotte on the palate, it is a caucophony of the purest wild strawberry and red cherry fruit. It’s a wonderful wine.

Vignes Franches lies right in the middle of the Beaune Premiers Crus, bordering Clos des Mouches among several others. The third vintage for this cuvée, it has attractive cherry fruit aromas with an interesting herbal note. There is an elegance and depth to the crunchy, cherry fruit on the palate and a very fine and long saline finish.

The origin of the word "Cras" comes from "rocky hillsides", a term often used to describe a vineyard whose soil is made of rubble and pebbly stones. This parcel's soil is gravelly with a high quality red clay that is very typical of Pommard. Pretty cherry and wild raspberry fruit combine with rose petal on the nose. The fruit continues to sing on the palate and is juicy, sappy and generous with a long, mineral finish. This is lovely.

Produced in every vintage since the foundation of the domaine, this 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, produced from co-planted vines, is one of Burgundy’s bargains. The vines are now aged between 100 and 103 years. Fortunately they ripen at the same time, and are picked together. The wine has an energetic and fresh sour cherry character, with a light body, and fine-grained slightly crunchy tannins. Delicious

The 2021 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots wafts from the glass with an elegant bouquet of cherries, plums and cranberry fruit. On the palate, it's classic Pinot with slightly crunchy red fruit, terrific depth at the core, silky tannins, and a long, lingering finish.

In 2021, due to the effects of the frost just one cuvée was made, from all four vineyards. Even with this blending, just 11 barrels were made, with grapes destemmed by hand, so low were the volumes: the same as the total of the Clos du Château des Ducs in 2022. Yields were between 7 and 8 hl/ha. This has a perfumed and pretty nose with alluring notes of rose petal. Elegance personified, with perfect phenolic ripeness and fine and silky tannins. It has a texture that can only be described as lacy: so fine, so complex, intricate, and detailed, and ultimately just beautiful.

This is a blend of their lower-lying parcels of village Volnay plus some 1er Cru Brouillards. This was the only village Volnay the domaine produced in 2021. Lafarge’s Volnay is always so elegant and charming, with a perfumed, concentrated nose, and a smooth and refined frame. The fruit is definitely red here, and the wine feels poised and sweetly ripe, whilst remaining taut and fresh.

The 2021 Beaune-Grèves comes from a single parcel of 100 year old vines, the oldest that the Lafarge family owns. It has a well defined, fragrant cherry nose with a hint of herbal aromatics. The palate exhibits such balance - fine tannin, fleshy red cherry and strawberry fruit, an elegant mineral complexity, fresh acidity and a long, velvety finish. Profound.

This village wine is 100% destemmed and has a sapid, redcurrant, spiced pomegranate character, with long, lightly structured tannins holding it together. This is a great entry point for one of Pommard’s most promising new voices.

This is a wonderful site in Beaune, high up on the hill to the south of the town. The 100% whole bunch works extremely well here, making for a salty, charming wine. There’s red currant and red plum depth and a freshness in the length, all enveloped in silky, fine-boned tannins.

This south facing parcel is tucked up the valley slope, so on the Beaune (i.e. north) side of the village, facing directly towards Volnay. It’s a cool site, thanks to the fresh breeze that is drawn down through the vines, but the white soil and south-facing exposure means it can heat up pretty quickly when the sun shines. Joannes has used 50% whole bunch fruit in the vinification here. There’s a wonderful purity of red plum and cherry fruit as a result, with fine, slightly chalky tannins. This has fabulous elegance.

This magnificent vineyard in Pommard is a prime contender for promotion to grand cru. The wine shows a nicely spicy hint of reduction, and the tannins build in dramatic layers. Unlike some Rugiens, which can need the best part of a decade to even approach their drinking window, this should, thanks to the graceful and elegant structure of its tannins (again from 100% whole bunch fruit) be relatively accessible from five years onwards.

The vines here have an average age of 70 years and enjoy one of the finest positions in the village, along with Rugiens. The soil on this side of the village, nearer to Beaune, is extremely complex, with a high mineral and limestone content towards the top of the slope. This makes for a more ethereal, delicate, and elegant expression of Pommard than perhaps we are used to, and Joannes has managed to extract the most perfumed, supple, fine- grained tannins in this 2021 from 100% whole bunch fruit. Really excellent.

First introduced in 2020, this cuvée is a blend of old and young vines mostly coming from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. There's a precise, lean feel to the palate. This is classic Pinot Noir with juicy, bright, smooth red fruit that builds to a long, fresh finish.

Nicolas sees these vineyards, around Corgoloin just south of Nuits St Georges, as the future of his domaine. Land prices here aren’t impossibly high, yet the quality of terroir is terrific. It means he can make this enormously characterful and interesting wine for an outstanding price. The 2021 has a floral, peppery, cherry and damson character, both ripe and with a little crunchy tannic kick.Satisfyingly delicious.

These 3 parcels of vines are between 50-70 years old, and Nicolas has used 100% whole bunch on this wine, giving it a kirsch/cranberry fruit character. The tannins are really quite crunchy and energetic in their youth, but will stand it in good stead for ageing.

Nicolas has the oldest vines in this highly-rated premier cru. They were planted in 1904, and Nicolas plans to uproot them within the next year because the old vines have become so low-yielding. The wine has powerful and concentrated tannins, fantastic texture and elegant, floral,plummy aromatics to its fruit.

Dominique Lafon declassifies the fruit of young vines grown in the 4 hectare plot into the Volnay, meaning the 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu cuvée is the exclusive product of old vines.

Monthélie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. With the added generosity of 2020, it's a must-try.

This is a blend of multiple parcels of older vines (that are a minimum of 45 years), which all share in common their mid-slope position. There is quite a lot of flat land and heavy clay at the bottom of Santenay which is less good, so this is an important distinction. These vines are all in the upper part of the village on limestone, and make for an aromatic, fresh, juicy and vibrant red wine packed with crunchy red fruit notes, layered with fine-boned, expressive tannins. Delicious.

Beauregard is one of Santenay’s finest premiers crus, lying at the eastern end of the village, near the border with Chassagne. It’s a particularly picturesque site, with a windmill in the vineyard - a good indication there is a steady breeze here, helping to keep the fruit cool as it matures. The limestone soil gives the wine a freshness and acidity that make it hugely appealing in its youth. Where the Vieilles Vignes is all about black fruits, this is scented with red berries: cranberries and red currants. Its tannin structure is particularly fine-grained, and its finish is long and graceful.

Beauregard is one of Santenay’s finest premiers crus, lying at the eastern end of the village, near the border with Chassagne. It’s a particularly picturesque site, with a windmill in the vineyard - a good indication there is a steady breeze here, helping to keep the fruit cool as it matures. The limestone soil gives the wine a freshness and acidity that make it hugely appealing in its youth. This is scented with red berries: cranberries, wild strawberry, red currants. There is such freshness, balance and depth on show here, with a lovely herbal note running through the palate. The tannin structure is particularly fine-grained and supple, and its finish is long and elegant. This is one of the best value reds we tasted in all our time in Burgundy.

Along with the Bourgogne Blanc, this is the second vintage for this cuvée in 2021. It comes from a close friend of Catharina’s, and she is able to administer all the biodynamic treatments to the vines throughout the year. The wine is deliciously peppery and fresh, packed full of cherries and with beautifully refined silky, velvet tannins. Electrifying energy here.

2021 sees the first year of biodynamic farming on this vineyard plot by Catharina. This Gevrey-Chambertin in 2021 is more structured and classic Gevrey in style than in 2020. The tannins are there, but there is a soft, approachability to them, even at this stage. The notes of brambly fruit on the nose are enticing already, but of all the wines in the Horées cellar, I suspect this will enjoy a few years in bottle the most.

This is a particular highpoint in the Horées cellar, but sadly only made in tiny quantities. Deliciously salty, savoury and silky. It is so complete; and combines a weightless flow with real intensity. It is a brilliant example of this premier cru. Snap it up whilst you can.

This is a blend of 30% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Beaune, 15% Gamay from Pommard and 55% Gamay from Fleurie. Previously these Coteaux Bourguignons wines were known as Passetoutgrain; the change in appellation name a few years ago has coincided with a renewed interest in this less common but historic style of red from Burgundy. Some are simple and fruity, others, like this, are more serious, with a savoury density and precision in the fruit. This 2021 has a beautifully spiced, vibrant red cherry energy, with hints of blood-orange, and silky, fine tannins.

Catharina’s 70 year old Bourgogne Rouge vines are in Pommard, and she now does a slightly longer élévage on this than previously. The tannins are so finely knit, and the whole bunch style of winemaking she favours really suits the fruit here, producing a perfumed, chalky, supple wine with a gorgeous herbal, savoury note running through.