Chablis 2021: New Releases

This is a blend of five terroirs across the steep Vaillons premier cru. Blending gives Benoît the chance to introduce freshness, with higher acid fruit running through the riper parcels. A little over 25% was fermented and aged in old oak, giving a subtle smoky note to the nose with hints of lemon. This is an elegant wine with classical balance, plenty of ripe yellow citrus on the palate, a pretty floral character running in parallel and ending with a long saline, tangy finish.

Droin’s Vosgros is always one of the most striking and characterful wines at the domaine. Vinified and raised in stainless steel, this has a rich volume, coupled with delicious purity. It shows freshly cut grass and herbaceous notes on the nose, and has wonderful intensity on the palate, with green apple and pineapple notes carrying through to a long, fine finish.

Mont de Milieu, the mountain in the middle, historically marked the frontier between Burgundy and Champagne. It has a south-facing aspect - rare in Chablis - and this wine expresses the flamboyant side of Chardonnay grown in a sunny spot in a cool climate. 25% aged in oak. This wine is bursting with white flowers, apricots and peaches with a lick of toast. On the palate there is a pronounced chalky freshness, which wraps around the white stone fruit. This is so intense, salty, mineral, but fleshy.

Montmains is on the slope of the left bank, snuggled right up next to Vaillons, but has deeper clay soils, and typically produces a rounder wine with more weight. 40% aged in oak, this is really quite ‘bourguignon’ in style, as in, it wouldn’t be impossible to mistake it for something from the Côte d’Or if tasting blind, but that little kick of oyster shell that whips around the fruit gives it away as Chablis. There’s a wonderful perfume of yellow and white flowers, while the palate displays an enticing white stone fruit element with a little creamy toast character from the oak and a long iodine finish.

A fresh, chiseled Chardonnay from the master of Chablis.

Séchet is a lieu-dit within the Vaillons premier cru, which is prized for its floral, mineral, and delicate power. These old vines had belonged to his grandmother, and are now aged between 60 and 80 years. Aged in tank, this sees no wood. It is complex on the nose with a vibrant energy and plenty of green orchard fruit. The palate is long, saline, mineral, iodine and packed full of concentrated, fresh fruit.

This comes from three parcels, which are spread across the top, middle, and bottom sections of the premier cru. It has attractive floral, oyster shell and fresh pear aromas. The palate is energetic with notes of white peach. There’s a nice balance between fruit and minerality in this premier cru.

Samuel’s Montée de Tonnerre is a blend of two 50-60 year old parcels, one of which lies alongside that of Raveneau’s. It has a wonderful, slightly spicy scent, similar to ginger. The palate is savoury and taut, with a tangy, saline freshness on the finish.

Vaulorent is technically part of Fourchaume, the largest premier cru in Chablis, and is the only premier cru to share the same slope as the grand cru. It has very chalky soil and produces a wine of power and silky tension. The 2021 is so velvety and enticing, you almost don’t feel the power of the wine underneath the texture. Concentrated peach, apricot and a wonderful fresh grapefruit pithiness transcends, with a finish that is complex, long, saline and very fine - super!

Vaillons is a warm, sunny premier cru, and Fèvre has 3.5 hectares right in the middle of the slope. Their 55-year-old vines produce concentration and ripeness in the wine. This 2021 is bursting with white peaches, apple and pear on the nose, with a vibrant citrus-edged palate and fresh ginger spice. Wonderful acidity on the back palate leads to a long, elegant, saline finish.

Vaillons is a warm, sunny premier cru, and Fèvre has 3.5 hectares right in the middle of the slope. Their 55-year-old vines produce concentration and ripeness in the wine. This 2021 is bursting with white peaches, apple and pear on the nose, with a vibrant citrus-edged palate and fresh ginger spice. Wonderful acidity on the back palate leads to a long, elegant, saline finish.

2.2 hectares split between three parcels are blended here, creating a complex and crystalline wine. It has the honour of hosting the domaine’s oldest vines, which were planted in 1936. These add beautiful freshness along with density of rip, yellow plum fruit. It is restrained, taut, and so long and saline. You are in no doubt of the greatness of this wine when tasting.

Vaulorent is technically part of Fourchaume, the largest premier cru in Chablis, and is the only premier cru to share the same slope as the grand cru. It has very chalky soil and produces a wine of power and silky tension. The 2021 is so velvety and enticing, you almost don’t feel the power of the wine underneath the texture. Concentrated peach, apricot and a wonderful fresh grapefruit pithiness transcends, with a finish that is complex, long, saline and very fine - super!

With quantities down 60% in 2021, Montmains is blended with La Forêt. This was bursting with expression. It has vibrant, green apple energy, with an outstanding purity. This is mineral, saline, serious - and seriously delicious - classic Chablis.

Fourchaume has a little more flesh on its bones than Montmains. This is no surprise given Fourchaume is one of the warmer sites in Chablis, thanks to its southerly exposure. In 2021, Pièce au Comte also forms part of this cuvee. Despite this added weight, this is mineral and fresh with a complex saline acidity.