August Bank Holiday Cellar Raids: Day Four

4 Kilos' first vintage in 2006 was made in a milk refrigeration unit and since then, winemaker Francesc Grimalt and business partner and musician Sergio Caballero have really honed their efforts to produce Mallorca's most well known and respected wines. 100% Callet grape. A wine that displays immense purity and freshness with a wild strawberry perfume and aromas of crushed red berries and hints of violet and sweet spice. The tannins are so fine grained and the palate is silky in texture with a restrained concentration on the core.

Agricola is the brainchild of Callum Powell, the son of Torbreck founder Dave Powell, who worked in the Northern Rhône with Jean-Louis Chave before striking out on his own. There's a clear nod to the Northern Rhône here. Its 'low hi', hands off winemaking, and all that, combined with some excellent vineyard sources, makes Callum's wines some of the most exciting we've found in the Barossa. This has all the bold, expressive black fruit you would expect from the powerful subregion of Ebenezer, but with a bright energetic acidity and relatively restrained 13.9% alcohol.

Agricola is the brainchild of Callum Powell, the son of Torbreck founder Dave Powell, who worked in the Northern Rhône with Jean-Louis Chave before striking out on his own. There's a clear nod to the Northern Rhône here. Its 'low hi', hands off winemaking, and all that, combined with some excellent vineyard sources, makes Callum's wines some of the most exciting we've found in South Australia. The Flaxman Shiraz is from the Eden Valley and is sourced from two vineyards; the 100+ year old Powell family vineyard, and a neighbouring steep slope. This is a medium-weight, elegant Shiraz. It's fresh and saline, with black olive and black pepper in amongst fresh red and black fruit. Callum uses very little new oak, and coming in at below 12% alcohol it's a truly unique, and incredibly impressive, example of Eden Valley Shiraz.

Macán Clásico 2019 is Vega’s project in Rioja with the Rothschild family. It is 100% Tempranillo planted in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria in the Sonsierra region of Rioja. The Clásico is their second wine that uses younger vine fruit and the wine spending a few months less ageing in french oak barrels (14 months). 2019 was a very dry and warm vintage, with a concentrated core and richness.

This is the estate's Grand Cru site with extremely old plantings from 1890. The wine has great acidity and freshness and the finish is long with a salinity that almost feels like a coastal wine. Grapefruit and beeswax notes combine with white florals.

From 85 year old vines that come from a small 1 hectare vineyard at altitude on complex soils of quartzite, slate and clay. Primarily Garnacha, there is some Macabeo that has been field blended in the vineyard. Blood orange, raspberries combined with sweet and savoury spice. The tannins a chalky and extremely well knit.

Tawny gold colour. Complex and elegant, this classic Amontillado is pungent and aromatic, with fine notes of oak. Nutty on the palate with a hint of sweetness and a lingering, dry finish. The Solera of this Amontillado consists of 10 casks which are aged in José Luis González Obregón’s bodegas in El Puerto de Santa María.

Having spent 12 years ageing in casks in Bodega La Campana in Jerez de la Frontera, this Oloroso has taken on complex aromas of baked apple, grilled nuts combined with dark chocolate and saltiness.

Pale lemon in colour, this Fino has an attractive lemon citrus profile that supports the yeasty, salty and savoury notes that are a result of the biological ageing. The palate has a refreshing acidity and saltiness on the palate.

By Farr Shiraz is from the original vineyard planted in 1994. It's co-fermented with 2-4% Viognier and is matured in 20% new oak. There's a bit of whole bunch bringing a lift to the nose, but on the palate it's deeply concentrated with dark fruit and aromatic spice. Complex and structured.

A brilliant cool climate Shiraz from the By Farr team in 2019. Bright and fresh with sappy berries alongside some riper black fruit. There’s some black pepper and earthiness and a silky texture.

Viña del Olivo was revolutionary in Rioja in the early 1970s for being Rioja's first single estate, modelled on the Bordeaux concept. Under the meticulous winemaking of Jorge Navascués, this wine and the 2020 vintage is exceptional. A wonderful perfume of red cherries, rose petals and cranberries are supported by sweet and savoury spice. There are hints of lapsang souchong tea and crushed stones as well as some herbs. The tannins have a great presence, as well as an attractive suppleness.

A touch of coconut is present along with the cinnamon-spiced oak here. Again the fruit core is compact, dense and concentrated with the promise of power and weight to follow. The palate is incredibly taut with intense, tightly bound raspberry and dark cherry. The tannins are ripe, full, and assertive while the acidity brings the trademark long, juicy character. This is currently showing all the potential of a beautifully constructed Gran Reserva. An exciting prospect indeed.

Viña del Olivo was revolutionary in Rioja in the early 1970s for being Rioja's first single estate, modelled on the Bordeaux concept. Under the meticulous winemaking of Jorge Navascués, this wine and the 2020 vintage is exceptional. A wonderful perfume of red cherries, rose petals and cranberries are supported by sweet and savoury spice. There are hints of lapsang souchong tea and crushed stones as well as some herbs. The tannins have a great presence, as well as an attractive suppleness.

A very special wine with limited production, the grapes are sourced from a small plot, with many vines over 100 years old. Black cherries, juicy red plums, brambles and clove and cedar spice are also supported by chalky, ripe tannins. Dark chocolate notes persist on the finish.

Grapes come from a slate dominated plot in the village of Toral de los Vados. It's northeast-facing exposition at 700 metres altitude, combined with 100 year old vines as well as Mencia co-planted with around 12 other varieties makes this a very exciting site and wine. Expect wild strawberries, cranberries and sweet spice combined with graphite and garrigue. Tannins are chalky and the core has so much finesse.

Dominio del Águila was established in 2010 by Jorge Monzón and his partner Isabel Rodero in the small town of La Aguilera in the Ribera del Duero and since their arrival have been making waves in the wine world. They manage to achieve breathtaking elegance in their wines, focused on small volumes and high quality, these are not your typical Ribera del Duero fruit and alcohol bombs. The Canta la Perdiz is a single vineyard parcel that is made up of a field blend (principally Tempranillo with a mix of Carignan, Bruñal, Bobal and Albillo) of mainly 100 year old, ungrafted vines. The organically grown grapes are hand harvested and foot trodden and later spend over 30 months in oak prior to bottling. Despite the wine’s concentration and density, it still manages to portray great minerality and focus. Expect bramble fruits and spice combined with blood orange and wild strawberries. The tannins are fine grained yet present and the acidity remains refreshing and lively, and the wine’s length is exceptionally long.

Eaton Wines was established in 2014. Along with his wife Jo, Mike established some of New Zealand’s most renowned Pinot Noir vineyards (Clayvin, Clay Hills, Outpost, Calrossie) and the TerraVin wine brand. 2019 was a ripe peachy vintage for Sauvignon Blanc and this tiny production cuvee showcases this with soft fruit on the nose with a zingy citrus lift on the palate. Juicy and mouth-watering, it's one of the finest New Zealand wines we've tried.

Eaton Wines was established in 2014. Along with his wife Jo, Mike established some of New Zealand’s most renowned Pinot Noir vineyards (Clayvin, Clay Hills, Outpost, Calrossie) and the TerraVin wine brand. This is a single vineyard wine, fermented and aged in French oak barrels. Zesty and pungent, with added leesy richness and subtle nutty aromas. Textural and rich.

Benje Tinto grapes come from an impressive altitude of 1000 metres in Santiago del Tiede in Ycoden-Daute-Isora with notable Atlantic and volcanic influence. The majority is Listán Prieto (also known as País) and a small amount of Tintilla and the vines are completely untrained which no doubt has contributed to this wine’s wild character. Expect bright red cherries and wild flower aromas combined with juicy, refreshing acidity and fine grained, integrated tannins.

A relative new addition to the Envínate range, this 100% Listá Negro wine comes from four different parcels in the Orovata Valley, in a village previously named Migan, on ungrafted vines that are over 100 years old. The altitudes reach 600 metres and contribute to the wine’s energy and freshness. Wild flowers and strawberries combine with powdery tannins and lively acidity. One of the more rounder styles within the range.

The Benje Blanco grapes come from an impressive altitude of 1000 metres in Santiago del Tiede in Ycoden-Daute-Isora with notable Atlantic and volcanic influence. The Listán blanco vines are old and aren’t trained, which contributes to the wine’s wild personality. The Benje demonstrates aromas of blossom, grapefruit and flinty notes combined with zesty acidity.

This is only the 2nd vintage of this exciting wine sourced from over 100 year old vines from 3 plots that reach 600 metres altitude and situated in the north of Tenerife in Santa Úrsula. A blend of Listán Negro, Negramoll and Listán Blanco, depending on where the grapes originate from the wine undergoes different percentages of whole bunch. Bramble fruits and violet aromas combine with rosemary and thyme. The tannins are chalky and well integrated.

An indigenous white blend that is dominated by Arinto, this Alentejo white is a favourite at Lay & Wheeler. It offers orange peel and grapefruit notes as well as ginger spice and flinty notes. The palate is energetic and crisp, with a pithiness that persists on the finish.

Old vine wine, vines from 50 years of age plus, with all the associated concentration and richness. Vibrant and ripe with blackberry, plum, pure and plush in style. Violets, black pepper and cedar notes. Bright and balanced with fine-grained tannins and silky texture.

Arguably the longest consecutively-produced single vineyard wine in Australia, Mt Edelstone was planted in 1912. It now represents incredible value in Henschke's portfolio. Made entirely from Shiraz vines that average over 100 years old, the 2017 expression is full of ripe blackcurrant, spiced plum and fine pepper. There's a distinct sage leaf aroma and a little creaminess on the nose from oak ageing. This vintage is beautifully fresh, energetic, with clean fresh fruit flavours and long, fine tannins.

Mt Edelstone tends to be our favourite of the new Henschke releases each year. From vines planted in 1912, it always impresses and is more approachable than its stablemate Hill of Grace. Rich cherry and plum, with sage, fresh cracked pepper, and more lifted earl grey, floral aromas. Elegant and charming, even in this seriously warm vintage. This feels like it will be impressive young, but has a powerful core and grainy tannins that will set it up well for a decade or more in the cellar.

Named after the Poniente winds, these sherries are produced from the el Aljibe vineyard in Pago Añina, and aged in a restored house tucked among the vines. The Fino comes from a very small selection of barrels that are displaying the finest flor. Expect typical yeasty and brioche notes combined with wild herbs and lemon citrus. The palate has a zesty acidity and saltiness.

Named after the Poniente winds, these sherries are produced from the el Aljibe vineyard in Pago Añina, and aged in a restored house tucked among the vines. Complex layers of dried fruits, salted almonds, hazelnuts and candied orange peel.

From the famed Springvale vineyard at altitude in the Clare Valley, that brings a beautiful fragrant, floral quality to the wine. Intense and aromatic with white flowers, fresh lemon and lavender. The sherbert-like acidity is perfectly balanced with a refreshing long finish.

This is a collaboration between the Barrys and Ernie Loosen. It's made from vines planted in 1979 in one block of the Lodge Hill vineyard. It's made in large 3,000 litre German foudres, and fermentation is arrested when 5 grams of residual sugar remain. It's not sweet, but has a great balance of rich fruit with the powerful, textural character of the wine. The wine finishes rich and long, with lemon barley, white peach and a waxy note.

From a newer vineyard for Kumeu River, this time in Hawke's Bay. Limestone soils give a distinct mineral character to the wines here with more than a passing resemblance to Burgundy. Fine-grained tannins, with sweet red cherry, fresh mint and subtle forest floor aromas. A must try for any Pinot fan.

Benchmark Australia Chardonnay from Margaret River, Leeuwin Estate 2020 is ripe, vibrant and energetic, with bright citrus, pithy notes, and oyster shell, saline notes on the finish.

From the Yarra Junction sub-region in the Upper Yarra, this is delicate and mineral in style. Mac only uses old oak here and wild yeasts. Lemon barley and white flowers on the nose, with some wet stone and steely aromas too. Bolder, fresh lemon and pith on the palate and some creamy texture. Then there's a stony quality and salinity on the finish.

Mac thought it was frankly ridiculous he had to travel all the way to the Macedon Ranges to find top quality Cabernet Franc, but find it they did and this is full of the same charm and character as the rest of the range from Yarra. They used 10% whole bunch, 60% whole berry, and 30% foot-stomped fruit before fermenting with indigenous yeasts. The wine was then aged for 7 months in large and small old oak before being bottled unfiltered. This has old-world leafy freshness and fine tannins. It has Mac's trademark transparency and a mixture of black and red brambly, aromatic fruit flavours.

This comes from the Bulong Estate vineyard in the Yarra Junction sub-region. It has dark cherry fruit on the nose and palate, with lots of intensity and complex spicy notes. On the palate it has a lot of intensity too with fine tannins and texture that builds and leads to an energetic, fresh finish. This has all the volume, texture and harmony of the great Australian Pinot Noirs.

Intensely perfumed with pure aromas of raspberry, black cherry and red cherry. Light mineral hints of reduction on the nose, and a firm structure at this young age. Incredible concentration and intensity for its modest 11% alcohol.

A delicious Pinot Noir from Murdoch Hill's Artisan range, each named after vintage horse-drawn carriages winemaker Michael's grandfather collected. They are stored at the winery to this day. This vintage of Phaeton has 50% fruit from Lenswood and 50% from Piccadilly and is full of complexity. There's a dense core of brambly fruit, red cherry and plum, in a delicate frame with fragrant, lifted earthy notes. It perfectly showcases the delicate characters of Pinot Noir from these cool sites.