August Bank Holiday Cellar Raids: Day Two

From the vineyard next to the cellar - Kelder in Afrikaans - this is as bright and energetic a Chenin Blanc as you’ll find. Volumes are miniscule, and the vines were planted in 1972. Floral and intense.

Planted in 1954, this old block of Cinsault gives an intense and refined expression of the grape. There’s real energy here, and there’s also notes of fynbos, negroni, and very fine but almost Nebbiolo-like tannins.

From a vineyard planted in 1968 at the entrance to Adi’s property, this has lots of yellow fruit and an almost tropical note, but remains taut and mineral on the finish.

From a vineyard planted in the 1940s, which also provides Eben’s Skerpioen, this is a saline, pithy, long, delicious white that’s one of Adi’s hidden gems.

Fewer than 1500 bottles are made of this, from a vineyard planted in 1966. This is intense and vibrant, and there’s so much concentration and depth of flavour. A brilliant Chenin Blanc.

Tinta Barocca has huge potential in the Swartland, this parcel, planted in 1972, shows it beautifully. There’s notes of iron oxide and black pudding, with a core of dark fruit. Structured and intense, this will age brilliantly.

Miniscule production here - just 800 kg of grapes or so come from this wall-surrounded vineyard, planted in 1963. It’s savoury and spicy, with notes of ginger and rooibos. This is intense and stunningly pure.

From the same vineyard on the far west coast of the cape as Eben Sadie’s Skerpioen. This Palomino is savoury, fresh, and beautifully balanced. It’s a curious, long-lived white that’s seriously impressive.

A serious Cinsault from a vineyard planted on the Paardeberg in 1954. This has notes of liquorice, rose petal, and lifted strawberry fruit. And it will age brilliantly, too. Powdery tannins complete the picture. You can almost taste the soil here. Brilliant.

A blend of half Chardonnay and half Pinot Blanc, from the Gouges clone, this is fresh and zippy, with notes of mandarins and a hint of fresh hazelnuts. There’s incredible acidity on the long, savoury finish, which has you reaching for glass after glass. Brilliant.

A new project from Querciabella, all the fruit comes from high altitude vineyards on the Ruffoli hill, in the commune of Greve. Classically made, this is a profound, complex, ageworthy wine from Querciabella. There’s so much going on here, and the texture is astonishing. A new benchmark for Chianti?

Querciabella’s Super Tuscan, the 2017 Camartina is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Sangiovese. The trick here is the estate’s high-altitude vineyards, bringing freshness and poise alongside astonishing depth of flavour and complexity. One of Italy’s greatest wines, this shouldn’t be missed.

South African winemaker Manfred Ing has been elevating this estate since his arrival and the Querciabella wines are considered to be some of the most exciting wines to be coming out of the Chianti region. A blend of 70 % Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Sangiovese, the 2019 vintage displays the richness and concentration that you would expect from a warm vintage, combined with the complex layers from a long growing season and long, cool autumn. Bramble fruits, wild herbs and sour cherries combine with dark chocolate and clove spice. Tannins provide great structure and the backbone from a wine with a juicy, concentrated core.

The 2020 Solaia is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller percentages of Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese. It's a rich and dark expression this vintage, with layers of blackberry, black plum and cassis. There's lots of complexity, with freshly roasted coffee, dark chocolate and dry spice. The tannins are bold too, and densely packed, adding to the rich texture here.

Planted in 1972 and 1978. Quite dark and powerful, lovely energy, silky, very cherry, lovely tannic character, hint of rose and talc too, nice texture and very good energy and length. Racy but a sweetness of fruit. Cassis on the finish, and good length.

From a plot planted in 1948, this has strawberry on the nose, touch of spice, and is silky and almost Pinot. There’s notes of pomegranate, lovely acidity, mouth watering and very long, flowing tannins, and a very fine and silky finish. Luminous

The fruit comes from the San Sebastiano vineyard in Monforte, a site that has exceptional expositions for the Barbera grape. A significant amount of whole cluster and whole berry fruit goes into this Barbera that is aged exclusively in concrete to preserve the wine’s true expression. Sour cherry and damson fruit take hold of this red fruit focused wine. Subtle reduction adds some complexity, along with the wine’s mineral core.

This is a brilliant example of the results of an intense Monforte site, and the careful, elegance-inspired winemaking of Lara and Luisa. Notes of petrichor and baked earth, and some balsamic notes give way to wild flowers and mulberries. The finish is structured, but the tannins are enrobed in wonderfully juicy fruit. A spectacular second Barolo from Lalù.

Contrada is the estate's 'Cru' and is made up of 90% Carricante and 10% indigenous white grapes. The wine spends 12 months in large oak and a year in bottle. Yellow stonefruits combine with honey and pink grapefruit. There is a saltiness and steely character on the palate, yet there is a concentration and density with a long length

The 2021 Testamatta is sourced from various hilltop vineyards with a bit of altitude providing some coolness to this warm vintage. The philosophy here is to make transparent, approachable wines, so techniques avoid anything that might create too much concentration in the final wine. There's a savoury, earthy element to the wine that brings that approachable, gourmand feel they are looking for, and the fresh black cherry fruit and violet, rose petal complexity builds on that appetising quality. The tannins are lithe and subtly frame the wine, leaving it feeling classic and effortless in style.

Ultra, meanwhile, takes its name from the farmer’s love of trance music - and more specifically a gig named Ultra. It’s a Chenin Blanc from the Swartland, and is generous, textured, and astonishingly good value.

Aasvoel is Verdelho, from a single plot in Stellenbosch, that Pieter’s always desperate to get his hands on. So much so, that he feels like a vulture - Aasvoel in Afrikaans - waiting to pick over the vineyard. It's a textured, mouth filling white, but with loads of focussed energy.

A left field blend from Pieter: Grenache, Cinsault, Pinot, Syrah and then some Chenin Blanc & Viognier. This is a ripost to those who claim Pieter is a jack of all trades, master of none. It's so easy drinking, but with the structure and length to make it interesting.

Brazen is a blend of Fernao Pires - from 37 year old vineyards in the Swartland - alongside amphora-aged Palomino from a 47 year old vineyard in Piekenierskloof, and Grenache Blanc from the Voor Paardeberg. It’s a savoury, textured, vibrant white, with a mineral finish that lasts for minutes.

The 2021 Syrah is a brilliant iteration of this legendary wine from Boekenhoutskloof. This outstanding vintage has resulted in a wine that has delicacy and focus, but also incredible structure. Notes of violet and dark fruit, and lots of energy on the finish. Spectacular.

While the Epilogue Syrah gets all the plaudits, the Sons of Sugarland is arguably just as good, if not even better. It sees no oak, and is a peppery, suave, floral expression of the grape. With bottlings like this, it's no wonder that Reenen is regarded as one of the Cape's Syrah masters.

Sourced from a 2.5 hectare parcel at the top of Falletto, the red label Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva is one of Barolo’s most iconic wines. Dark and layered, the 2017 iteration of the wine offers up an aromatic intensity that’s perfectly wrapped in suave, impeccably judged tannins. This year's top Barolo from Bruno Giacosa is outstanding, and yet again it’s well worth seeking out.

Mineral, fine, and remarkably complex, this 2018 is a really lovely wine. The palate has cherry fruit with some rose petals, and then lifted notes of seville oranges, and just a hint of spice. There’s a quinine-like minerality that comes through on the finish, making the finish of the wine very long, and making you reach for another glass.

Attractive perfume of red cherries, wild flowers and raspberries combine beautifully with a savoury gravelly note. The palate is very precise with a zesty acidity and well knit tannins. An approachable Barolo that showcases the best the region has to offer.

Sourced from across the Barbaresco region, from trusted suppliers, this is a wonderfully fragrant example of the region's everyday grape variety.

Yet another wine that shows just how good the 2014 vintage is. Soaring aromatics, incredible finesse, and remarkable length. A complete wine.

Silky, supple, and charming, the 2018 Barbaresco from Giacosa is a wonderful example of what makes Barbaresco so alluring. Rose petals and some citrus fruit, too, and there’s also a real energy on the palate. This is very fine-boned, and there’s an almost Pinot-Noir like clarity to the finish.

As with all of the wines at Giacosa, this is a lovely expression of the grape variety. Lots of cherry yoghurt here, with plenty of spice, too. Serve slightly chilled for a delicious red for summer.

A parcel within a single vineyard. Rocche sits at the top of the hill and has the oldest vines within the vineyard. Complex layers of red plums, cherries, rose and sweet clove and cinnamon spice. There is a herbal note on the palate as well as a leather that adds intrigue, with firm powdery tannins that are quite prominent now, but will almost certainly calm down in a couple of years. This is a classy wine that needs time.

Asili is a great vineyard in Barbaresco, and 2019 is a brilliant vintage. The result is a wine that dazzles with its intensity and finesse, and also with its nobility. The tannins are grippy but fine-boned, and the fruit is perfectly ripe. This lasts an age.

Wonderfully fresh and vibrant, particularly for a 2017, this has notes of cinnamon and freshly cut flowers swirling from the glass. A finessed and classy Barbaresco, that's surprisingly ready to go.

Yet another wine that shows just how good the 2014 vintage is. Soaring aromatics, incredible finesse, and remarkable length. A complete wine.

Bruno Giacosa put lots of emphasis on his Roero Arneis, and this is one of the best examples as a result. There’s lovely drive, with pithy pears, and a slightly savoury, floral character, too.

2008 was an outstanding vintage in Piedmont, and this shows it off. A rare treat.

From a more exposed site, fermented on the skins of the amarone, to bring richness and power alongside the stunning perfume. It’s then aged in 500 litre tonneaux for 18 months, bringing spice and textural complexity. One for the cellar.

Really beautiful perfume. Quite savoury, with a nice hint of reduction. There’s plenty of purity here, with grippy tannins and fine thread of acidity. Lots of dark berries, and there’s a suaveness, or coolness across the palate. A touch austere, but with impressive depth, too.

The Dolcetto grapes are sourced from the Ovello vineyard, a west facing vineyard that is dominated by sand and significant diurnal fluctuations. The colour is brilliant purple with blueberry, violet and black cherry fruits. The tannin structure is chalky and the palate is very mineral and savoury.

Slightly darker in character. More deep fruit here, and then a balsamic note, too. Very different from the Albesani. A wildness here, a hedgerow character, with lots of tannins that build. The fruit character is almost Pinot Noir in character, it’s so elegant. The structure builds on the palate, and it’s incredibly fine on the long finish. Saline and long. Outstanding.

Just 4,000 bottles are made of this delicious, vibrant, mouthwatering fizz from Gianmario. Notes of orange blossom and citrus peel on the nose, on the palate there's a hint of peaches, too. The palate has verve and vibrancy, and so much precision on the finish, too. This is brilliantly balanced, and oh-so-delicious. Make sure you grab a case or two.

Really nice fruit, almost citrus and red berries. Good concentration, nice hint of reduction, and there’s lots of tannic structure here. This is very finely judged and good length, Slightly herbal in character, quite mineral on the finish.

Selection of grapes, of barrels - quantity can change from year to year. Quite balsamic in character, really nice energy, this have coiled energy on the palate. Very nice texture, this is quite backward, but with time it will be outstanding. From a truly great vintage, don’t miss this.

Slightly closed today, but there’s impressive power and intensity here. So driven and intense, lots of tannic structure, very vertical in style, more mineral and powerful. This has incredible potential: there’s a coolness and definition here, with lovely length on the finish.

2019 is a great Barbaresco vintage, and this has cool fruit and plenty of acidity. There’s a tension here, and lots of rippling energy, with flavours that develop on the palate. Very impressive indeed.

Mario decided that the 2018 Monvigliero needed less time in barrel, and felt it won’t age quite as long as some vintages, so this isn’t a Riserva this year. This is so refined, pure, and energetic, with lovely finesse, and sumptuous tannins. This is pure Monvigliero, and such a delight already.

There’s a lot of freshness to the 2017 Monvigliero Riserva, and also a very silky palate, despite the challenges of the vintage. This has grip and grows on the palate, and there’s notes of sea spray and red fruits, and then some balsamic. Very complex, with time this will blossom into a wonderful wine.

From a vineyard planted in 1978. Wow. What a nose. So detailed and floral, and there’s notes of clove and liquorice, and a balsamic character, too. The palate is silky and mineral, with lots of salinity, and powdery, fine-grained tannins that grow. Really nice texture here, with plenty of focus. Very long indeed. This is intense and powerful, yet such a baby. Outstanding. And there’s a hint of nice bitterness on the finish, which keeps the mouth watering.

Pelaverga is the indigenous grape variety to Verduno and is being revived by some high quality producers, such as Castello di Verduno. 2020 is a beautiful vintage that is approachable and instantly attractive. Expect an explosion of pepper and red berry and wild flower perfume.

The Riserva is only made in exceptional vintages where the estate thinks the wine can keep in the bottle for at least 20 years. The wine has a lot of structure with the tannins and acidity giving the core focus and tension. The aromas project cool red berry fruits and wild strawberry and herbs with hints of spice and black tea.

Vinified in oak rather than stainless steel (as the Rabajà-Bas is). This is aromatic and open, with wild flowers on the nose and plenty of intensity. There’s a purity and focus to the fruit, and notes of liquorice and tons of energy on the finish. This is very impressive, and very long indeed.

One of the finest vineyards in Barbaresco, from a spectacular vintage. This is perfumed, intense, and fine-boned, with amazing precision on the finish. Outstanding.

One of the greatest vineyards in Barolo has produced a stonking wine in 2011. Juicy, rich strawberry fruit and rendered tannins craft a wine with amazing mouthfeel, and a purity that’s rarely seen. Brilliant.

The 2017 Vin Santo from Castello di Volpaia is a magnificent effort that exhibits superb depth, density and complexity. Expect dried figs on the nose, with apricot and light caramel. There’s also a creamy texture here and an ever so slight nuttiness to the finish: almonds and toasted hazelnuts. Only the estate’s finest bunches of Trebbiano and Malvasia are selected for the this wine, and the qualityof this wine is soaring.

The 2017 Coltassala, the single vineyard wine from Volpaia, is brooding, intense, and very powerful. With time it's sure to be an impressive wine: at this price, a no brainer.

The forgotten grape of Piemonte, Cavallotto's Freisa is a real joy. So much fresh fruit and pure energy, and there's a slight crunchiness here too. Notes of fresh thyme and plenty of grip of the finish complete the picture. This is a delicious red from one of the region's greatest names.