2021 Northern Rhône

Alain Graillot has long reigned as Crozes-Hermitage’s most respected grower. His sons Maxime and Antoine now run the ship and are making Crozes par excellence. Their Crozes is sweetly fruited, with excellent depth. It always sits in the red spectrum of fruit, where all the best Crozes find themselves. It has structure, but also an effortless tenderness, thanks perhaps to its whole bunch fruit (the influence of Alain’s training at Domaine Dujac?).

Alain Graillot has long reigned as Crozes-Hermitage’s most respected grower. His sons Maxime and Antoine now run the ship and are making Crozes par excellence. Their Crozes is sweetly fruited, with excellent depth. It always sits in the red spectrum of fruit, where all the best Crozes find themselves. It has structure, but also an effortless tenderness, thanks perhaps to its whole bunch fruit (the influence of Alain’s training at Domaine Dujac?).

Alain Voge’s pithy sparkling wine, Les Bulles d’Alain, is unlike anything else we have on our list. It is lively, dry, refreshing, and refined. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, but don’t want the weight of a Champagne, this is the perfect option, and a smart price too. It’s a very good example of why Saint-Péray has built its renown for sparkling wines.

This is the second of the domaine’s signature cuvées (the other is Cornas Les Chailles). It comes from the old vines planted further up the slopes at altitudes ranging from 250-400m. The wine shows old vine intensity, twinned with the precision of the 2021 vintage.

This is one of two signature reds at the domaine (the other being Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes). Les Chailles is tight and firm in its youth, but floral aromatics open up with some aeration, promising this will start drinking well from early on.

This domaine only makes one wine from across the Côte Blonde and Côte Brune, and they throw everything they’ve got at it. In fact, they are the only domaine still producing just one blend in Côte-Rôtie, and when you taste the wine, you know they are fully justified in continuing this tradition. Bernard has recently retired, and his son, Pierre, is clearly hitting his stride. He says 2021 was a difficult year in the vineyard: frost, rain, disease… it had it all, and required a huge amount of work. But in spite of this, he says he’d take a ‘21 every year for the rest of his career, so pleased is he with the final wine. It is fresh and juicy, with some of the most fondant, supple tannins we tasted in the 2021 vintage. Don’t miss.

This has become a firm favourite, not only for its outstanding value for money, but also for its sweetly-fruited, supple and delicious style. It’s everything we look for in a Crozes. The vines are all clustered in the northern sector of the appellation on granitic soils at high altitude (between 120-300m). This resulting wine has charming red fruit, with a juicy, bright drinkability. Highly recommended.

The south-facing schist-terraced Les Picaudières vineyard produces age-worthy, expressive, sumptuous wines. As usual, this wears a little more oak than the straight Crozes-Hermitage, and as a result has a richer depth that will require some patience. It is focused and vibrant, with a wonderful depth of fruit.

André Perret saw some of the heaviest losses from the spring frost of any grower we work with. As a result there is no village Condrieu this year, and a much smaller amount of the magnificent Coteaux de Chéry available. These vineyards are west facing, and therefore get the morning sun a little later than the south/east facing slopes, meaning they weren’t as badly exposed to the morning frost. The wine is truly wonderful - fresh and flowing, with excellent acidity giving it such a pleasing saline/bitter edge. It’s a highlight in any context, particularly this year in a cellar so depleted of its normal volumes. The epitome of tension and precision.

This Coteaux du Lyonnais, which is made from Gamay, has earned a huge following for its upfront peppery blue fruit and soft tannins. The vines grow on decomposed granitic soils that lie south of Lyon, and it’s made by one of Côte-Rôtie’s most accomplished winemakers, Guillaume Clusel. In 2021 it feels crunchier and tighter than some recent vintages, with a sour cherry bite keeping it lively and energetic. As always, it is great value.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. Indeed, until recently it had been called ‘Classique’ rather than Les Schistes. It comes from a range of vineyards across the iron-rich soils of the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and the bottom of Viallière. The blend is saline and taut, with a flash of fresh cherry running through the palate. Fragrant, with a little cool spice.

This cuvée is always the most powerful in the Clusel Roch stable, and even though the frame of all the 2021s is a little slimmer than recent warmer vintages, this still shows plenty of density and concentration. It comes from vines planted in 1935 by Guillaume Clusel’s great-grandfather. The parcel sits high up, above La Viallière, and makes a complex and structured wine.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse and voluptuous depth. This was the highlight of the Clusel Roch cellar in 2021 - lovely notes of torrefaction give the sweet fruit a toasty charm. It is a warm site, and usually produces the roundest, richest wine here. In 2021 it is on song: the freshness and elegant balance of the vintage showing it at its best.

In 2021 this has a delightful herbal freshness entwined with the red berry fruit. It comes from granitic slopes in the heart of Cornas. It has no new oak and is always the most floral and forward of the Courbis Cornas wines.

This vineyard was planted in 1945, and the old vines are treated with huge respect in the Courbis cellar. It has been aged in 60% new oak, and will demand more time in bottle than the other Courbis wines. There is a natural density to the fruit, and the wine shows its calibre in a long, powerful finish.

For those seeking sleek Cornas that has the body and structure to age but the open fruit to approach from youth, this is your wine. It is the most refined of the Courbis Cornas wines, and with a well-judged 40% new oak wrapped around the sweet fruit, giving it savoury, toasty depth.

Sometimes there is a marked difference between this and the Grand Vallon and Deponcins cuvées from Villard. But in a vintage like 2021 where the quality is so high, it sits side by side with its cellar siblings: all three fabulous in their different characters. The grapes come from various parcels around Chavany and Vérin. It displays wonderful tropical citrus notes: yuzu and kumquat. Nice mineral length.

This 2021 shows great energy. Bursting with pineapple fruit and mineral depth. It comes from a single vineyard in the south of the appellation, in St Pierre de Boeuf. The east/north-east aspect makes this site cooler than many, and its granite and gneiss soils results in superb mineral tension in the wine.

This site is in Saint-Michel-sur-Rhône, just south of Château Grillet, where the quartzite mica-schist soils make wines of length and finesse. It is bright and vibrant with impressive tension derived from its freshness. The pinnacle of the Villard cellar.

Sybarine comes from the vines that surround the Garon cellar, nestled at the bottom of the Côte Blonde. Its granite soils make for an open, refined, and silky Côte-Rôtie. This was bottled before the other Côte-Rôties, and is easily the most approachable of the four cuvées, drinking well from early on. No new oak is used, with the emphasis on Syrah’s peppery and sappy style.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde. Its depth of fruit is clear, even in the 2021 vintage that tends towards lighted, more restrained wines. Supporting new oak gives it spice and succulence. Of all the Garon cuvées, this will benefit the most from some time in the cellar, though it should drink well from just 3 to 4 years.

This fantastic site on the Côte Brune is shared between just three growers. The Garons’ vines were replanted in 1980 and 2001, and their youthful vigour produces a juicy wine, with a rounded balance. 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak add silkiness and depth.

This comes from four neighbouring lieux-dits on the Côte Blonde: Lancement, La Triote, Le Combard and Le Mollard. They share a high proportion of white schist in their soils, making for an intense and savoury expression. It is glossy, black-fruited, with a fresh, tense length.

A first swirl of this in the glass and you’ll fall for it. It’s a juicy, pure, light-footed, and expressive Syrah that comes from vines planted just beyond the limits of the Côte-Rôtie appellation. The 2021 is fragrant and open, with vivid cherry and cranberry notes. There’s a deliciously leafy freshness, with the scent of peonies woven through the fruit. Fresh, bright, and appetising. Stock up. This has fast become a Lay & Wheeler favourite.

This tiny cuvée is the jewel in the crown at this estate. It’s tough for any young domaine to buy vines in Côte-Rôtie these days, and only the very brave attempt it. Graeme and Julie now have two tiny parcels, and this cuvée has already won them much praise as the new kids to get seriously excited about. The 2021 continues their strong form. It is restrained, tightly coiled, and serious. It will need more time than the rest of their wines to open up, but will unfurl in magnificent splendour.

This is Syrah wearing its Pinot cloak. The Kamaka is the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. Seyssuel, on the other side of the river to Côte-Rôtie, is an appellation on the march. There are hopes that it will be elevated to full cru status within a matter of years. Here, the schist and gneiss soils glisten in the sunlight; there’s no granite on this side of the river, The Syrah that grows here is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture and a spicy, salty undertow. Kamata is the Maori word for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Much more than a curiosity

The young vines planted by Graeme and Julie in l’Aleau have produced a miraculous wine in 2021. It’s only released in tiny quantities, but is well worth tracking down. There’s a step up in concentration and tension on the straight Condrieu. And the story behind the wine is one of the most charming we know. When winemakers talk about tending their vineyards like their gardens, we understand what they mean, but take it with a pinch of salt. In this case, these vines literally are Graeme and Julie’s garden, which sits between Coteau de Chéry and Château Grillet, below their house in Vérin. They bought the house a few years ago, and on discovering their garden was in fact prime AOC Condrieu, they not only decided to plant it with vines, but also to start their own domaine. So it’s where their story really begins.

Each year we see the Botts refine their style, and this Condrieu is a contender for most exciting wine of their 2021 vintage. They like to keep freshness in their Condrieu, rather than seeking richness and weight. And so 2021 plays right into their hands: the style is exactly that which they pursue. It is poised and energetic, vibrant and lively, with beautiful aromatic appeal. The granitic soils of Condrieu give the wine minerality and freshness alongside natural ripeness. It should be superb after a year in bottle.

This fresh, bright, early-picked Viognier encapsulates Graeme & Julie’s skill at handling this grape. Where their Condrieus are emerging as some of the most interesting in the appellation, this ‘First Flight’ is a great value window onto their style. The vines are grown in granite soils at 300m altitude. This zips across the palate with the natural freshness of the 2021 vintage, with an attractive almond bite on the finish.

Le Gréal is a unique wine, and one that has built up a loyal following for its decadent, statuesque style. 2021 is a departure from the norm. Unlike all previous vintages back to 2009 that have been made from 100% whole bunch fruit, this is 90% destemmed. It feels less massive than previous years, more juicy, bright, and balanced, though it has an echo of the wine’s signature spicy notes thanks to the 10% whole bunch Guillaume has kept in the blend. It harks back to a style Guillaume says was last found in the 1990s. It may be unlike the wines we’ve come to love from this domaine, but actually, is a delicious iteration in its own right. In spite of its slighter style, it should age fantastically. One thing that remains constant is the fruit’s origin: 90% is drawn from the lauded Le Méal parcel, at 10% from Les Gréffieux, on the Hermitage hillside, from vines dating back to the 1920s. A small amount of co-planted Marsanne amongst the Syrah adds freshness and mollifies the tannins.

2021 is the greatest vintage for northern Rhône whites since 2014, and this is the best Rocules we can remember tasting. Unlike recent warmer vintages that have lent into the honeyed, nutty, tropical richness of Marsanne, this is fresh, precise, and has its old vine concentration on full display not in high alcohol, but in profound length.

This is usually a blend of two parcels, but in 2021 Bressands was hailed in August, meaning the yield here was decimated. So the heart of the wine is from Les Plantiers, just below Le Méal. Like the Crozes Hermitage, this was fully destemmed - a marked departure from the domaine’s usual style. It is sappy, salty, crunchy, and fresh. The floral tones make it more accessible than the Gréal, and mean it should start to open up a little earlier, too.

Guillaume Sorrel's whites are as interesting and profound as his reds. This wine from Crozes is a little more forward and floral than the Hermitage wines, making it delicious in its youth. 2021 is an outstanding vintage for northern Rhône whites, and this is a prime example. It is apple-scented, fresh, bright, and with wonderful energy.

This is grown in kaolinite soils, a clay-limestone soil that only accounts for around 1% of Crozes-Hermitage. These white soils result in highly mineral wines. In 2021 Guillaume lost 40% of his crop to frost here, and unusually, applied full destemming to the fruit (the domaine is usually associated with whole bunch fermentation). The result is a fresh, crunchy, and vigorous Crozes, saline rather than spicy, and driven by a sappy minerality.

Although Domaine Ogier is based in Ampuis in the Northern Rhône, Stéphane has made a very savvy investment in the South. From a site near Cairanne he produces this brilliant value Côtes du Rhône. It delivers fantastically juicy, lightly grippy length, with an abundance of sweet red fruit flavours, thanks to the 60% Grenache in the blend, which is filled out with 40% Syrah. It is pleasingly rich and ripe for 2021, with vibrant freshness. Early drinking and full of joy.

2021 is a vintage of extremes in Condrieu: drastically small quantities (frost) yet soaring quality. This example from Ogier is bright, balanced, lithe and complex. At 12.5% ABV it is fine and refreshing.

This Vin de Pays comes from vineyards situated just behind the hillside of Côte-Rôtie, on the same granitic soils as the famous slope, but with a south-west exposure. It is dark, leafy, and svelte. It’s a great introduction to Stéphane’s Northern Rhône range. A mini-Côte-Rôtie.

This comes from the northern part of the long appellation of St Joseph, in the part that borders Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie. It is dark and brooding, with notes of salty black olive tapenade and cassis fruit, with full, grippy tannins. It will need a little time.

This is the emblematic cuvée of the Rostaing domaine, which blends 15 lieux-dits from around Côte-Rôtie. It showcases the Rostaing signature style: rich, dense fruit, with bold tannin structure. The 2021 has wonderfully open fruit, and this will drink well from early on. Savoury and highly appetising.

This is arguably Côte-Rôtie’s most famous vineyard. In 2021, this magnificent Rostaing cuvée bursts with cranberries and nutmeg spice. Grippy little tannins give it a certain austerity in its youth.

Viognier in Condrieu was hit hard by the April frosts, and as a result, only a tiny amount of this popular, characterful Condrieu has been made in 2021. As usual, it was vinified and aged in stainless steel, rather than oak. It comes from a granitic south-west facing parcel, and in 2021 is floral, fine, and shows the minerality that Condrieu, in a cooler vintage, is capable of.

This is one of the most sought-after wines in the Rostaing stable, and only produced in tiny volumes. In 2021, when no Côte Brune was produced, it will see even greater demand. It has structure, spicy, deep tannins and a density of fruit not easily found in the 2021 vintage. The natural freshness of the vintage sings through. Powerful, but poised.

This wine is a blend of fruit from various parcels in the southern part of the appellation, but the majority is drawn from the vineyards lying right next to Sylvain’s new cellars, perched at 350m altitude. It is always so fresh and lively, with impressive weight.

This cuvée was first bottled separately in 2019, but is actually the first vineyard that Sylvain rented when he struck out on his own in 2007, so it holds a special place in his heart. The vines are 50-60 years old on south-facing terraces. It has a salty grip, and a deep, rich dark fruit weight on the palate from the old vines.

This comes from many parcels dotted around the central and southern part of the appellation. Sylvain intelligently handles his fruit: the young vine bunches are destemmed, while the older vines’ stems are kept intact, combining them to produce a highly juicy, perfumed style. It's a spicy Syrah, with the freshness of the 2021 holding it in balance.

This comes from a selection of 100-year-old vines in some of Stéphane’s best parcels, Champelrose, Eygats, and Combe. It follows in the same vein as the Cornas, but with greater presence of tannins and drive. It will therefore need longer in bottle to reach its peak. Hugely elegant, mouth-coating, and intense.

There is something magical here: it is at once aromatically precise, and energised with a wildness, reminiscent of garrigue herbs. As usual, it is a blend of 15 different parcels around Cornas, which Stéphane vinified separately, only blending at the final moment before bottling. Great freshness and balance.

This cuvée flies out the door, so much so that we have to be early to confirm our allocation or it all goes well before the en primeur campaign. Pithy, expressive, and with a supple freshness. It’s beautiful to drink in its youth, but will develop well with some time in bottle.