2019 Burgundy: All Wines

This is undoubtedly one of the greatest premier cru sites in the Côte de Nuits. Clos Frantin are the proud owners of 1.75 hectares. It has a powerful but controlled aroma, laden with rich red fruits and oak spice. On the palate there is that core of sweetness you find only in the best examples of Pinot Noir, where freshness, ripeness, and power are all in perfect balance. Satin-like tannins and a powerful length.

This plot was once considered in the same breath as Chambertin and other great sites, so it now constitutes a real bargain. It is fruit, flamboyant, and fragrant in 2019, bursting with the scent of crushed raspberries. There is some stony minerality on the palate and delicious, crunchy little tannins. Bright and enticing.

Where Les Vaucoupins is discreet and reserved, Les Clos is expressive and powerful, with the full, luscious weight of the warm year behind it. 25% is raised in oak, of which only a tiny portion is new. This is a buttery, weighted, striking, and satisfying Les Clos, given exciting precision by the vintage’s wonderful acidity. Pretty smart for the money.

There are few premiers crus prized as highly as this. Many put Les Amoureuses on a par with grands crus, and it has stolen the hearts of many. It is the quintessential expression of Chambolle-Musigny, brimming with sweet redcurrant fruit, and gliding along on silky tannins.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

The Long-Depaquit parcel is situated right at the crest of the hill. This premier cru is reserved, tight and fresh with lemon zest and salty notes defining the palate. Some gunflint smoky notes should develop mineral complexity with time in bottle. A little shy right now, it should blossom a year or two. Excellent value for a premier cru.

La Moutonne is a unique parcel – a monopole that has only had three owners since the middle ages. On an incredibly steep slope, this ancient climat straddles the two grands crus: Vaudésir (95% of the parcel) and Preuses (just 5%). It has breadth and silky depth, and sensational balance. This is one of the finest examples of Chablis Grand Cru you will find and brings with it fantastic ageing potential.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

Domaine du Clos Frantin owns a parcel in the Champs Traversins part of this vineyard, high on the hill, which is noted for its fine expression. This is nicely silky and spicy, with graphite notes alongside the red berry fruit. Understated, svelte, and very sophisticated.

Domaine du Clos Frantin owns a parcel in the Champs Traversins part of this vineyard, high on the hill, which is noted for its fine expression. This is nicely silky and spicy, with graphite notes alongside the red berry fruit. Understated, svelte, and very sophisticated.

This wine is not only where his cellars are based, it is also the calling card of the domaine. It shows a burst of juicy red berries on the nose, with a lifted, minty freshness. The tannins are so strawberry-soft and supple that the overall impression is of an incredibly silky texture, that might feel like it were missing some structure if it weren’t for the elegant freshness of the Hautes-Côtes acidity. Nice peppery nuance to the cranberry fruit palate.

This vineyard lies just next to some of Nuits-St-Georges’s finest premiers crus, at the top of the hill, sheltered by the fringe of woodland above. It has this distinctive pink peppercorn note with fresh redcurrants on the nose. The tannins are slightly more granular and grippy than the previous wines, and add a pretty structure to this wine, which bodes well for its evolution over time.

This superb vineyard in Vosne makes such floral and elegant wines. With velvety texture yet saline tension, and dark berry fruits with a little grip, this should begin to sing after five years.

This is the defining wine of the grand cru, the one to which everyone looks as the quintessential Corton-Charlemagne. The west-facing aspect of the hill means the vines enjoy the long rays of the afternoon sun, making for rich textures and a sumptuous depth of fruit. It is always exhilarating to taste, with rich layers of exuberant fruit and creamy, lightly spiced notes giving freshness and balance.

From next vintage, Ch de Fuissé will finally be able to put ‘premier cru’ on the label of this wine. Le Clos, a 2.7 hectare monopole vineyard that lies just next to the Château, has been selected as one of the finest parcels in the appellation and deserving of this historic upgrade. The oldest vines here were planted in 1929, and the youngest in 1984. There is such a chiselled intensity in this wine, with smoky tension, and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is precise, energetic and persistent. It is no surprise this will be upgraded to premier cru.

This comes from three parcels, two of which come from the limestone soiled near the distinctive Solutré rock, and the third from a richer clay site near Pouilly. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has a wonderful freshness in 2019, with light citrus aromatics, and a clean, chalky finish.

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, giving a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half comes from Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest from limestone and sandy schist soils. 95% of the wine is aged in oak, with 15% in new oak. There is a hazelnut toastiness on the nose, and the bright balance of mandarin orange on the palate. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year. In 2019 it is, as ever, a highlight.

This is arguably the most famous and celebrated of Puligny’s premiers crus, whose chalky soils have produced some of the finest bottles of white Burgundy ever. There is such a precise attack here, with a marked salinity. Notes of grapefruit and spring flowers on the nose, with a palate that is so distinctly racy, this couldn’t be anything other than Puligny.

Since 2012, Alain has been exchanging juice with a neighbour, for just one barrel of this astonishing grand cru that he vinifies and ages in his cellar along with his premiers crus. It has a big bite, and nectarine plump juiciness underneath. This has richness and definition, and a long saline finish.

The plot of Charmes in Puligny is a continuation of 1er Cru Charmes in Meursault, and shares many of its characteristics, like the light, fine, stony soils. It certainly merits single bottling, with its fine-boned nervous freshness and delicate richness underneath. Plenty of fragrant, fresh yellow fruit and a light blossom note. Great value.

Clavoillon is shared between just three owners: Alain, his brother, and Domaine Leflaive. Alain’s vines are now 50 years old, and produce a concentrated, elegant example of Puligny. It is piercing, floral, and runs straight as a die on the palate, with mouthwatering minerality.

Aux Réas is an excellent village lieu dit that a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It sits at the southern end of the village, and its wines can offer some of neighbouring Nuits’ structure and firmness, with the supple, rippling fruit of classical Vosne.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice. It has an intensity and volumes that will unfurl with time.

Sweet-fruited, red berries, with some rounded silky tannins and the vintage’s signature freshness on the finish.

This is a stand-out in the Arlaud cellar in 2019, with suave red fruit, blood orange,and mineral structure. The 40 year old vines in the Clos de la Roche have really performed in 2019. This should have a long life ahead of it.

This comes from the very highest point of the Mazoyères section of Charmes. It has such fine powdery tannins, wrapped in cool red fruit. The power and weight of the grand cru build across the palate.

This is the largest premier cru at Ballot-Millot, and can be relied upon to produce a sensational wine year-in year-out. It is so savoury, weighty, but not heavy, dense and with fabulous purity. Outstanding.

This sits amongst a clutch of the top premiers crus in the village. The vines are over 80 years old, and have weathered the hot summer well. This is enticing and floral, with a poised edge. It has brilliant tension and precision, with a staggering length.

Charmes is one of the defining crus of the village. Its limestone terroir has just 30cm of topsoil, and it has produced a wine with blistering energy in 2019. It has the zing, depth, and structure to age brilliantly.

Narvaux is one of Meursault's best village lieux dits, sitting relatively high up on the slope, above Genevrières. There is such wonderful pithy grapefruit bitterness, with a straight and incisive line of acidity, and a voluptuous depth of stone fruit on the mid-palate. It is bright and poised, and with subtle smokiness. It is a highly complex village wine that should evolve well for many years.

Morgeot borders Santenay at the south end of the village, and is not only the largest premier cru in Chassagne, but the largest cru in the Côte d’Or. This wine is a blend of two lieux dits within: Les Fairendes and La Cadeuse, found at either end of the large cru. There is such intense fruit here, with plump orange pulp character, some white blossom, and light citrus oil, enrobed in zinging freshness.

The fruit comes from a number of parcels, all within the Chassagne commune. Alex says he looks for energy rather than too much ripeness in his Bourgogne. This has a wonderfully sweet core of nectarine, and some tart freshness balancing the natural roundness of the wine. A fragrant and charming Bourgogne Blanc, you will never regret having a few bottles of this in the cellar.

Consistently one of the finest sites in St-Aubin, towards the crest of the hill approaching Chassagne and its grands crus. Vibrant lime green flecks in the glass. The wine has a vibrant aroma of greengages, ripe peaches and blossom. Pure and very balanced.

Just one barrel made in 2019 of this magnificent wine. It is one of the finest sites in the village, with particularly stony soils, producing tense, vibrant, acid-driven wines. In 2019 the low yields have produced an amazing concentration. It is utterly delicious.

As one might expect, this grand cru is a glittering example of this superb terroir. Its fruit and freshness have a beguiling energy. Anyone who gets to enjoy this in the years to come is very lucky indeed.

La Maltroie is one of the larger premiers crus in Chassagne. It sits right in the middle of the village, opposite the Moreau cellar. This has a straight attack, with scintillating pink grapefruit on the mid-palate, that has a good volume, and is drawn together nicely in a long, piercing finish.

As might be expected from a producer of this calibre, this village wine offers complexity and depth on par with some other producers’ premiers crus. Its production accounts for 40% of the domaine’s output, being drawn from many sites across the village, half of which are tucked up in the pocket of village vines than hug the premiers crus, the other half from the village’s border with Puligny-Montrachet. It has a nutty, full freshness, and a concentrated yellow/green fruit character, and a brilliant persistence.

This wine has been bottled as a single vineyard cuvée by Amélie’s father for many years, and remains the flagship wine of the estate. It is just over a hectare and sits right in the heart of the appellation, just below the village itself. The alluvial soils, particularly at the bottom of the parcel, are well-draining. The vines age between 15 and 70 years, and the wine has a brilliantly grippy fresh fruit drive with ample tannins and a spicy backbone.

With Richebourg and Cros Parantoux as neighbours, you can expect great things from this vineyard. Amelie has five separate plots across half a hectare. The site is so steep and inaccessible that no tractors can reach it, and all work is done by horse or hand. The 2019 delivers a concentration and persistence commensurate with its fine position: lavish red fruit, tight acidity, and powerful but velvet-like tannins.

This steep-sloped vineyard is one of Gevrey’s most highly-regarded premiers crus. It makes a wine of structure and depth, with broad, sumptuous tannins and heady dark fruit.

Fixin doesn’t have any grand crus, but in Amélie’s eyes, this is a pretty close estimation. It has very shallow soils, and the vines, now aged 30-80 years old, dig deep. 30% whole bunch brings a fleshy, plump fruit core to the wine that has ample tannins, and dark licorice spice. Crunchy cool fruit, and a long, mineral finish.

If Les Crais is her father’s cuvée, then this is Amélie’s. The wine used to go into their village blend, but Amélie has been bottling it separately since 2013. The vines are now 70 years old, and in 2019 she has expertly used 35% whole bunch in the tank to add sweet fruit tones and off-set the crunchy, more savoury aspect of the fruit. The combination is a triumph. This is fresh, vibrant, and satisfyingly sappy.

This comes from a parcel of 60-year-old vines grown on the granite slopes of Mont Brouilly. These volcanic soils produce a wonderfully persistent style of Beaujolais, with the charming strawberry and cherry fruits on the nose. The palate abounds with dark juicy fruit and ripe, grippy tannins and a vibrat length. This has the structure to age extremely well.

This comes from the older vines in one of the domaine’s three large vineyards above Nantoux, named Bignon, where the elevation measures precisely 421 metres. Much like the young vine cuvée, this has a mellifluous fluidity and charm, with an added intensity of red fruit: delicious crunchy cranberry flavours, with a little new oak toastiness to support. Expertly done, this is a stunning debut.

This comes from the young vines of the domaine, and has a red fruit, juicy, peppery sappiness, with a tantalisingly long, silky, salty finish. The chalky acidity and velvety tannins are a revelation. This is so far removed from the rustic, green, watery wines that once were commonplace in the Hautes-Côtes; this is a serious wine, but its refreshing fluidity means it is first and foremost a joyful and delicious Pinot. There’s nothing complicated to unpick here: it is simply a gorgeous wine.

This remarkable village lieu dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has a dark-fruited depth, with a tannin structure that feels so sumptuous and silky. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru.

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, and were planted in 1902. Their concentration and complexity shows on the nose, which is chalky, floral, pretty, and spicy. The wine has so much energy, tightly coiled, and sinewy, with a pomegranate weight and floral power.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. There is a spicy depth of fruit on the nose, and a surprisingly fine, elegant frame on the palate. It always has a sweet salinity to it, which complements the nicely ripe fruit in 2019. A charming Gevrey premier cru that should drink well from early on. One of Bruno’s personal favourites.

Clos de Bèze is slightly steeper and warmer than Chambertin, and the heights of complexity and concentration in its fruit is remarkable. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s, which are affectionately still referred to as the young plants. It is nuanced, saline, floral, tantalisingly fresh, with such a profound ripe berry fruit. A wine of incredible soul.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard alongside the grands crus. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine is heavenly - so precise and elegant, with poised, savoury fruit. There is something so tender here, though not at all sweet. It is one of the most grown-up Gevreys you can find.

Bruno Clair has an impressive 10 hectares in his home village of Marsannay, and bottles five separate cuvées, including this wonderful iteration from a single parcel at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its name (meaning “fat heads”) refers not to anybody involved in its cultivation, but rather the large rocks that show through the surface of the soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2019 has peppery red fruit and a fresh crunch that runs through the mineral tannins. Quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair. Since being bottled it has evolved to reveal a wonderfully floral aroma with a supple palate, so poised and juicy. This will drink brilliantly from early on.

This is the most linear and acid-driven of Bruno’s premiers crus, with a zingy line running through the palate. Light almond and hazelnut notes add depth and complexity. The most subtle and precise in the cellar.

En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. It is a standout wine in Bruno’s cellar - so elegant and pure. The high elevation here, rocky soils, and old vines means yields are particularly low, and the wine is concentrated and explosive, with such tense precision.

This comes from eight plots across the village, with vines aged between 15 and 75 years. The older vines give structure and depth, whilst the younger vines add freshness and a little spice. It shows a restrained, chiselled example of the village, with a little touch of new oak giving structure and support to the white nectarine fruit. Focused and textured.

This tiny parcel is a family treasure, and just one barrel was made this year. This pinnacle of the Bruno Colin cellar is powerful and complex, with the exotically spiced scent of white tea on the nose and a deliciously weighty but graceful palate. Truly great.

This premier crus shares borders with two grands crus: Le Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. It takes its name from the white, chalky soils found here, and it delivers everything in the glass you might expect from such a superb position and soil-type. The flavours - apricot, honeysuckle, lime, and white peach - are so dense, but zip across the palate with such swift grace. It is the most captivating and sensuous wine in Bruno’s cellar this year.

This tiny plot near the border with St-Aubin produces a luxurious, smoky, powerful wine with energetic ripeness and a wonderful grapefruit character. It has excelled in 2019, with concentrated fruit character and the vintage’s exuberate freshness.

Always one of our favourite wines here, the Bressandes is always the most fleshy and appealing of their Cortons. The thin topsoil is very stony, with gravel over limestone. It always has a dark berry character, with some wild herbs in the background.

This is a steep site with very high limestone soils. It always produces a nervous, tight wine that can do with a year or two in bottle before the floral notes can blossom.

Pernande-Vergelesse is just slightly cooler than neighbouring Savigny, and the wines often have this spicy, mineral freshness about them. This is always a charming example.

This comes from the sandy west-facing soils on the lower part of the village’s slope, which enjoy a cool and fresh microclimate. Always zippy and fragrant.

This is a blend of grapes from Corton-Bressandes and Corton-Chaumes. It always displays an abundance of white fruit aromas, complemented by the little hint of vanilla and spice from the oak.

The soil in Les Lavières is high in limestone, and produces a wine with lots of mineral bite, and a floral nose. This is a cuvée where the gentler pressing of the vertical press has given greater elegance and silkiness to the structure.

Aux Fourneaux finds itself on a steep slope which can, as the name suggests, be a sun-trap in the summer. These vines were planted in 1956 and the wine they produce is concentrated and intense, with dark berry flavours.

This monopole is a giant amongst the great terroirs of the Côte de Beaune. This walled vineyard is over 5 hectares and contains within it some of the finest plant material in Burgundy – a great source of massal selection for growers around the world. The old vines – some in their 100th year – are low yielding but remarkably resilient. A good third down in volume in 2019, this is one of the wines to bag early on. It is ripe and full, but so fresh and pure, and elegantly powerful. Paul Zinetti continues to prove that the Clos des Epeneaux is one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

Les Frémiets borders Pommard, and this wine has something of the character of both villages. Old vines here make a concentrated wine, with profound depth and sweet-fruited complexity. Gentle acidity and supple tannins bode well for the future.

This is a secret gem of a wine to know about: outstanding value, and over-delivers in a big way in vintages like 2019. It's a blend of young vine fruit (now 10 years old) with some 90-year old Aligoté Dorée, whose tiny, golden berries are packed with vibrant flavours.

The domaine's tiny holdings of Chardonnay are situated on the flat plain opposite Pommard and Volnay. Only made in tiny quantities, there was just one large barrel in 2019. It is zesty and bright, with some tropical notes thanks to the Muscat clone of Chardonnay they have.

This comes from a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep, well-drained, with very limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. This is less spicy than the village, but more powerful. Fragrant aromatic fruit and zesty acidity should see this go the distance. If you can wait a few years, this could be one of the best buys in your cellar.

This must be one of the best value, most characterful, and fun reds on our list. It is juicy and bright, with plenty of body. The 20% whole bunch works well here, adding a light, spicy frame to the crunchy red fruit. Just five barrels made.

A blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. Only five barrels of this wonderful wine were made in 2019 – a drastic reduction on a normal yield. It has a grippy palate and nose bursting with red fruit aromas. Wonderful mineral freshness in the elegant tannins. This is such a brilliant example of the domaine. Don’t miss.

This is arguably the best placed village parcel in the whole of Gevrey, sandwiched between Griotte- and Charmes-Chambertin. It makes such an elegant style, with finer, silkier tannins than other village blends. It is open and juicy, with a delicately mineral, complex finish.

This is a little paler in colour than the other grands crus. The extraction has been carefully handled to draw out some lovely silkiness. There is a little light peppery spice on the palate that adds freshness and a little structure. Very long and detailed.

This is fast becoming one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. The vineyard was planted in 1920, and you can feel the power of the old vines in the glass. There is so much power. But it is delivered with such effortless charm. Saline, savoury, and utterly superb.

The Durochés have five parcels within Charmes. The 2019 is so completely charming, with an effortless finesse about its frame. Wonderfully perfumed with sweet red berries and a little spice. And a great finish.

This wonderful vineyard is perched in the middle of the Combe de Lavaux - the cooler south-east facing hillside in Gevrey’s northern sector. It is right next to one of the finest of all premiers crus, Clos St Jacques. This wine is nuanced, deep and wonderfully long.

Duroché owns a sizable 1 hectare parcel of this premier cru. It soars with dark cherry power and persistence. The fruit and tannins are balanced in such harmonious poise, and the vineyard’s classic cool undertow is on magnificent display in 2019.

This wine from the Côte Chalonnaise is one of the bargains of Burgundy. It performs every year, and offers excellent value. The 2019 is so expressive, bursting with crushed raspberry aromas, with crunchy freshness on the palate. Reliable and brilliant.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian Grands Crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). It is sweet and smoky, dripping with red fruits. There’s a serious amount of body beneath the inviting aromas, and this wine should develop great complexity and depth over the years.

Les Cazetiers lies right alongside Clos Saint-Jacques on the Combe de Lavaux. Its easterly exposure combined with cool, elevated position make for outstanding freshness in the wines. With plenty of smoky, savoury new oak to support the scintillating fruit, this should begin to unfurl magnificently with a few years in bottle.

Latricières always feels a little cooler than Charmes next door. A gently but cool breeze draws down the valley, keeping freshness and minerality in the grapes. It is so pure and elegant in 2019, with an ethereal rose petal perfume. A beautifully balanced weight on the palate, and fine freshness right to the end make for a sophisticated expression of the vintage.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey grands crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. The sleek Faiveley oak adds spice and structure to this deep and seductive wine.

This is another recent addition to the Felettig stable. It comes from the northern sector of the Côte de Nuits, from the commune just north of Gevrey-Chambertin. Its 300m elevation and 20% incline give it freshness and grippy precision.

As the name suggests, this is situated in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny, and is a monopole of the domaine that we’d argue is premier cru quality. There’s lots of limestone in the soil here, and the 2019 is agile and bright, with juicy flow.

One of a rare breed, a Nuits St Georges 1er Cru blanc. Only 900 bottles are made every year. Full and fleshy, with a bright, mineral drive.

This uncelebrated ‘other’ white grape from Burgundy is enjoying a moment: the wines are fresh, vibrant, wonderful for early drinking and offer unparalleled value. The Felettig example is everything we’re looking for: salty, fresh, and moreish.

A classic example from this cooler region in the hills above the Côte de Beaune. It is peachy and smooth, with lovely tension and a silky texture.

A spectacularly well placed vineyard that enjoyed a commanding view, and its perched just above Clos de Tart Grand Cru.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). Full of black cherries, with a creamy texture and silky length. Structured and complex.

This comes from 65 year old vines, that in 2019 have created a spicy purity. Les Charmes might take its name from the trees that were once planted here, but it is, incidentally, a particularly charming wine across the vintages, highlighted in this 2019.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). Full of black cherries, with a creamy texture and silky length. Structured and complex.

This cuvée has only been made by Domaine Felettig since 2018. It comes from a half hectare plot on the gentle slope towards the top of the Montagne de Beaune, just underneath Montée Rouge.

The domaine has vines in two plots on either side of Nuits: Les Chariots in the south and Aux Lavières in the north. There is a Chambolle signature woven through the Nuits fruit here: nice structure, but overall still very silky.

Caillerets takes its name from the tiny stones that litter the vineyard’s soil, and it’s one of the village’s most highly prized sites. This 2019 is exuberant, and hugely exciting. There is a beautiful expression of orange peel, and a spicy, mineral edge to the palate. Wonderfully pure and pristine, with excellent detail.

This fulfils every bit of its grand cru potential: it has a mesmerising nose of orchard fruit perfectly supported by the toasty, savoury oak. This is so big and powerful, but not at all heavy. Its energy gives it a drive and movement.

La Maltroie is located just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village. The domaine owns two parcels, one of 0.56 hectares and the other 0.17 hectares. Céline says it is always approachable, and in 2019 it is bursting with zesty fresh lemon. The palate is salty, noticeably weighted with a satisfying depth, and a persistent finish.

The greatest of all white grands crus, in 2019 it has the abundant sweet ripe fruit of just picked juicy peaches. It is absolutely singing, even at this early stage. The length and complexity of flavour here promise an astonishing life ahead. It was a true privilege to taste.

Criots is a tiny grand cru, just one and a half hectares, making Fontaine-Gagnard one of the largest owners, with one third of a hectare. The south-facing slope, with poor limestone soils, yields a wine with superb power and tension. Fragrant, explosive fruit: a mouthwatering style. Floral and complex.

This is a rich and nutty expression of the village; full and energetic, with a ripe nectarine character and a salty acidity on the balanced finish. As ever, a benchmark Chassagne from one of our favourite producers, and excellent value.

This is indisputably one of the greatest premiers crus of Chassagne. Fontaine-Gagnard has two parcels, both east-facing and steep, with well draining soil. The vineyard is right next to a small forest, and apparently you can often see animals venturing into the vines. It is incredibly low yielding, and has produced a wine of formidable concentration, with a smoky, slaty, salted length. Absolute dynamite.

This is indisputably one of the greatest premiers crus of Chassagne. Fontaine-Gagnard has two parcels, both east-facing and steep, with well draining soil. The vineyard is right next to a small forest, and apparently you can often see animals venturing into the vines. It is incredibly low yielding, and has produced a wine of formidable concentration, with a smoky, slaty, salted length. Absolute dynamite.

Nicole has three parcels within this grand cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. In 2019 she vinified all three separately, which helps add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is spicy and deep, with some sinewy muscle flexing underneath the berry fruit and savoury tannins. An outstanding Clos de Vougeot, so long and refined, but with some power beneath.

This wine is exclusive to Lay & Wheeler in the UK. It is a steep site that sits right up against Aux Boudots on the Vosne side of the appellation. It has the finesse of Vosne and the power of Nuits - a pretty appealing combination. Some of the very old vines were recently replaced, so the production of this site is strictly limited at the moment.

This monopole grand cru in the heart of Vosne between two Domaine de la Romanée-Conti monopoles - La Tâche and La Romanée-Conti - is the flagship wine of the estate. Its increased quality in recent years is the primary reason this domaine’s star is in the ascendency. This has a wealth of fruit, and the grace and power of this superb site are evident in the fine, elegant length. Complex, voluminous, and poised. Unquestionably one of the finest iterations of this site.

From a parcel in Concoeur-et-Courboin, on the hills just above Vosne. It is sappy and fruity, pale, and approachable, with a delicate astringency that adds elegance and structure.

This is one of the greatest sites in Burgundy, and often gives grands crus a run for their money. This 2019 is a delicate pale ruby, with superbly lifted aromatics on the nose. The palate is powerful and precise with some graphite tension. Outstanding.

This is so wonderfully aromatic, so sweetly and dramatically scented with wild strawberries, sous bois, and sweet spice, all married with a fine vegetal note, giving freshness and complexity. The palate is flowing and supple, with opulent tannins and a subtle weighty length. Superb.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s most substantial premiers crus, famous for producing particularly long-lived wines. It is a little closed up in youth, with some density and power locked in. With a few years, this closed structure will yield to the suave tannins and its deep, mesmerising fruit core.

This might just be the best village wine out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy power. There are such voluptuous tannins and depth of fruit. It is powerful and silky, and utterly delicious.

This comes from just one parcel in Vosne-Romanée, planted in 1955. The wines are yielding such low volumes that the domaine is in the process of replanting, one quarter of the parcel at a time. The yield in 2019 was just 20 hl/ha, and the result is a staggeringly concentrated Bourgogne Rouge. There is remarkable potency in the deep, structured fruit here. It should be fantastic for the next decade, which is not something you can say of every Bourgogne.

Mugneret-Gibourg has just one parcel within this sizable grand cru, planted in 1954. It is one of the finest examples of the vineyard, with depth, structure, length and complexity.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It is deeply perfumed with dark cherries and cranberry spice. Notes of peonies accent the palate, and the wine has a beguiling length. Hauntingly beautiful.

This lovely village vineyard lies right next to the family home and winery, extending out like a garden from the cellar doors. Their father had rented it to a neighbour, but the well-maintained vineyard came back under the domaine’s control again from 2017. It is a full-bodied, deeply-fruited village wine with superb density and a cool, supple, rich drive.

As with the Echezeaux, a small proportion of whole bunch is being used here to add nuance and lift. This takes the prize for the finest 2019 we tasted. Seamless, subtle, and ethereal.

65% of this comes from Rouges du Bas, the rest from the Quartier de Nuits section of the vineyard. It has a poised freshness and wonderfully fine tannins, giving the overall effect of effortless elegance. From 2016, the sisters started experimenting with a small amount of whole bunch, and in 2019 have continued with 15% in the blend, which delivers great expression in this wine.

This well-positioned vineyard on the Vosne side of the appellation sits on the slope, enjoying plenty of sunshine and the cooling ventilation of a constant breeze, keeping the fruit in excellent health during the growing season. This wine feels so gourmand, with rich, creamy tannins, and a dark, brambly length, with a suave, silky finish.

Gevrey provides the structure and savoury stature, Maxime provides the silky texture and long, poised finish.

This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny, Les Bons Batons. It has the perfect combination of tannins, fruit and acidity. With notes of rose petal and fresh berries, and a fine, lacy line of acidity with supply tannins, this feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne. Considerable ageing potential.

You won’t find much better than this at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and nuance, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her premiers crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins.

This vineyard lies right in the middle of the village, and Ghislaine says because it lies in a little dip, it’s always a cool spot, giving it an edge in warmer years. The vines are now 40 years old, and really hitting their stride. In 2019 it has produced a wine so quintessentially Chambolle, with a superb floral intensity, complex palate with layers of red berries, blood orange, smoke, and spice. Exceptional.

This is one of Ghislaine’s greatest cuvées, and marks a particular sweet spot even in this flight of remarkable wines. It is bursting with grenadine aromas, with some tart and refreshing acidity giving a lively energy to the palate that has a finesse and elegance as well a terrific power that should see it go the distance as one of the finest wines of the vintage.

This is the final wine we tasted of her 11 premiers crus, because its power and energy are so intense and tightly wound it would almost certainly obliterate anything that came after it. This will be worth cellaring for some time.

One of the lesser known Nuits premiers crus, this vineyard is shared with Domaine Robert Chevillon, just below Aux Thorey, on the Vosne side of the appellation. Its clay-rich soils have yielded a big-shouldered, powerful Nuits, with a complex and surprisingly silky palate with an ample, pleasing finish.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

This single vineyard is located on the north side of Nuits, near Vosne-Romanée. It has a hint of that silkiness, but in its youth, the Nuits structure and stature dominate. This is a great example of the bold and muscular Nuits: fully bodied and full flavoured, with 2019’s brilliant freshness.

Etienne’s parcel is just next to Grands Echezeaux and has produced a magnificent wine in 2019. The fruit is so exuberant and full bodied, with a long, powerful finish of tremendous intensity.

Clos de la Chatenière is a steep south-facing parcel enclosed by a wall, with 65 year old vines. There are warmer red soils here, on the Puligny side of the village, and the wine is rich, and exuberant. A high level of millerandages amongst the old vines produces this added concentration, and the wine displays bramley apple, crystallised ginger, and salty lime spice. It is so poised and well balanced.

Les Frionnes is one of Olivier’s most important and favourite vineyards. He has 5 parcels within it, varying in age from 10 to 80 years old. The chalky soil here is very similar to the Kimmeridgian soils found in the Chablis. This, combined with the cool breeze that is drawn down the valley over Frionnes at night, has produced a wine with powerful, bright acidity, and minty, crisp apple length. This cool east-facing site was singed by frost in the spring, and volumes are down.

En Remilly is considered the finest vineyard in St-Aubin. This 2019 is powerful, chalky, smoky, and mineral. There is a noble vegetal note here - mineral intensity with some superbly well-judged reductive tension. It has less power and weight than the Chatenière but more drive and focus.

It is well-worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. The 2019 might just be the finest yet. Frost, high density planting, and organic farming mean low yields were reached, and this wine has manifest concentration. 70% whole bunch in the tank adds juicy spice, but underneath, this is clearly a wine of powerful and precise dimensions. The vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

Santenay is one of the southern-most villages of the Côte d’Or. This sunny spot on limestone soil was the first Olivier picked in 2019, and he has captured the precocious juiciness of the fruit, with the chiselled, zingy freshness of vibrant acidity and phenolic extract giving an overall cool mineral effect. Excellent.

This comes from a parcel called Basses Mazières, just below Suchots. It is dark in colour and has swirling, heady aromas of dark cherries. The palate has a distinct freshness and nice grip. Intense, and crystalline.

This comes from an astonishing 18 different parcels, many in the vineyards facing Chambolle-Musigny. Poor weather at flowering has, sadly, cut the normal yield in half. But what remains is just lovely - juicy and energetic, with soft berry fruit and a salty acidity. Good precision on the finish. If you’re quick enough to get it, it’s one of the bargains of the list.

This is a supreme example of Clos de Vougeot, which is not surprising given how well placed the two Hudelot-Noëllat parcels are, with one just next to the château in the sweet spot of the Clos. There is nothing austere or hard here, it is just so elegant and flowing, with cool, dark fruits and refined, mineral tannins.

Les Murgers is one of the finest positioned vineyards in Nuits, in the heart of the hillside on the Vosne-Romanée side of the town. In 2019, this is sensationally aromatic on the nose. The tannins are fairly firm and straight, but then wrapped in this gorgeous summer fruit coulis character. Outstanding.

High up the hill, on the limestone, this is one of Vosne’s most highly-regarded premiers crus. It is dark, spicy, and mineral, with stunningly long freshness on the finish.

This measures up to a grand cru in every sense. There is an amplitude of flavour - fruit, savoury complexity, and spicy depth - and a many-layered texture that one only sees in the greatest terroirs. Luxurious, deep cherry flavours explode on the palate. Just brilliant.

Clos de Vougeot might be a grand cru, but in the wrong hands it can be ungainly and heavy. In the hands of the Grivots, however, it is a finely woven, detailed and poised wine with beautiful power and length. The structure here is a little austere in its youth, but this is just the innate structure of the site taking centre stage so early on. This bodes well for some complex ageing, and the fruit will unfurl around the tannin architecture in time.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. When tasting, Etienne mentioned that Henri Jayer once told him to never, ever rip out these vines. He has since kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. 2019 is a tiny vintage though, with the volumes reduced from a usual 20 barrels to just eight. It is dark, dense, and impressively powerful, with a full and exuberant palate that fans out with black cassis concentration. Certainly not your run of the mill Gamay.

This is always one of the prettiest in the Grivot cellar, and in 2019, it has a full and floral bouquet of fresh strawberries and peonies. With sweet, rippling tannins and bright freshness, this is a great Pinot Noir.

This wine has earned a strong following for its superb quality, and will no doubt sell out quickly on release. As ever, this is suave and intense, with an opulent and dazzling freshness. The finish goes on and on. What a treat this will be in the future.

Beaux Monts is always one of the most impressive wines from this cellar. It is a beautiful vineyard in Vosne, and one of Etienne’s personal favourites. It has a rich, dark nose, with some softer, more voluptuous fruit edges. The palate shows wonderful finesse and elegance. Completely delicious.

The Grivots have at their fingertips lots of small parcels across the village, resulting in a wonderfully complete and complex village wine. In 2019 it is ripe, full-flavoured and bursting with dark hedgerow notes, and structured but silky tannins. A relatively full-bodied wine, it has a well-balanced weight and a long satisfying finish.

Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath 1er Cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and it’s quite a step up on your regular village cuvée. It is deeply structured, with layers of tobacco, spice, coffee, and dark cherries. Mineral tannins and a sumptuous fresh finish.

This is perennially one of the most in-demand wines in Burgundy. In 2019 it is dazzling. There is such a massive and distinguished power within the depths of this profound wine. A legend in the making.

This is one of the standouts in the Grivot cellar in 2019: plush, concentrated, and bursting with energy. The slippery smooth tannins wrapped around glossy dark fruit give the wine a lift and luminosity that sets it apart. The clay soils in the southern part of Nuits, sometimes accused of producing rustic wines, have helped the vines glide through the dry growing season of 2019, and have resulted in this glorious wine.

This well-located premier cru is just beneath Les Rugiens-Bas on the Volnay side of the village. It is one of the most improved wines of this estate over the past ten years. In 2019, it has some crunchy herbal notes amongst the red fruit notes, and an appealing salinity on the palate.

La Truffière has some of the poorest soil in Puligny, and the wines it produces often glide along at another level. This is zingy, potent, fragrant and complex. As long as you like, as well.

The domaine used to - technically - rent these vines from Jean-Marc’s mother, Lydie’s grandmother. She passed away two years ago and since then the domaine has inherited the two parcels, from which they make this explosively good wine. It has an exquisite mineral depth, voluptuous, powerful fruit, and a scintillating length. Formidable.

With seven parcels scattered across 3 hectares, of which five are located in Enseignères (a highly-regarded vineyard that touches the grands crus), the JM Boillot Puligny is one of the most complete and quintessential Pulignys we know. The 2019 is tight, fresh, saline, and lime-driven. There is something sappy and tense about the palate. Very good indeed.

From the Meursault side of the village, touching Meursault’s Charmes. This is tight and firm, and fairly closed in youth; it will need some time. But the lovely orange blossom character, with hints of almonds and a citrus finish, promises a complex and interesting development.

Their tiny parcel of the highly-regarded Combettes is situated between Les Referts and Champ Canet, right at the top of the Puligny slope. It soars in 2019: fantastic tension and persistence, with a grand cru-esque complexity. It has a majestic power and elegance. Wonderful focus and length, powerful and intense.

The Boillots have two parcels here, which together amount to just over one hectare. This 2019 already feels open and ready, with a ripe, generous character on the nose, followed by the classic Puligny salinity and drive on the palate.

This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits village wine is a firm Lay & Wheeler favourite. It has a superbly lifted cherry fruit nose, with some excellent minty freshness on the peppery palate. Exactly what you’d look for in this appellation, with the intensity and dimensions to out-perform some grander communal wines with a few years in bottle.

This is a mix of three plots across the grand cru. It has a increible intensity on the nose, laden with crushed raspberries and bright cranberry notes. There is something satisfyingly astringent on the palate - the tannins adding structure and definition, and promising excellent potential with some age.

Les Suchots is a decent sized premier cru, and shared amongst many of the finest growers here; but Alix’s 2019 might just take the prize for Suchots of the vintage. It has the vineyard’s typical structure, broad tannins, and dark fruit depth. But what sets this apart are the tannins: they add an elegance with their smoothness, giving the wine that great texture of apparent sweetness the best Pinots have. Powerful, and supremely well balanced.

Grands-Echezeaux is actually much smaller than Echezeaux, and its wines are much rarer. It can often, in the right hands, hold the edge in terms of quality. It’s hard to choose between Alix’s Echezeaux and Grands-Echezeaux this year, they are both exceptional, though this, drawn from just 0.2 hectares, is certainly the rare one, with very limited production. This is so powerful and focused, with substantial tannin texture, it should hold for a few decades.

Clos de Vougeot is a huge vineyard, so it matters where you’re placed. Jean-Marc Millot’s plot is in Grand Maupertui, which borders Grands-Echézeaux, often considered the finest part of the vineyard. This has ample fruit density and lift, with powerful but satin-like tannins.

This comes from two sites in Vosne, one bordering Suchots (Hautes Maizières) and the other Clos Vougeot (Les Violettes). It has an abundant, supple red fruit character, with the aroma of wild strawberries introducing this poised and elegant Vosne. There is delicious volume on the palate that culminates in a long and sophisticated finish.

This comes from two parcels with an average vine age of 40 years. One is located on the Pernand side of the hill, adding freshness, and the other in the centre of the hill, just beneath the Bonneau du Martray parcel. Only two barrels made.

Clos St Marc is a single plot within the larger Vergers vineyard where Jean-Marc’s 100+ year old vines make this a powerful, impressive Chassagne. It is tight and tense in its youth, and will unfurl with great grace in the years to come.

Les Vergers sits at the northern border with St-Aubin, on the slope just above Les Chenevottes. It has produced a floral, delicate, but firm style of Chassagne, with great drive and energy.

This steep stony limestone site has triumphed in 2019. A rich intensity on the nose of fresh mango and white flowers is followed by a palate that strikes like lightning with its acidity and energy. It will open up brilliantly within a few years. A very fine example of this regal site.

This vineyard is on the lower slopes of Puligny, just above Les Enseignères, and directly below the grands crus. It has a salty reduction on the nose, with the aroma of roasted peanuts entwined with zingy pineapple fruit. Delicious.

The pinnacle of Jean-Marc’s cellar. These vines are situated just above Le Montrachet. The higher altitude and poorer soil gives additional bite and minerality to the wine. Just one barrel made in 2019.

This is from three of the village’s best communal sites: Les Pierres (93-year-old vines), Mazures (40+), and Houilleres (30). The younger vines give lift, elegance and a vibrant drive, while the older vines give depth and power. This has citrus zest and grilled nuts on the nose, with an impressive density and volume on the palate. Such a stylish village wine.

Les Chenevottes has slightly deeper soils than some neighbouring vineyards, and the 70-year-old vines, with their deep roots, were able to endure the extreme summer in more comfort than some others. This is so mineral and precise, with scintillating lemon-scented power and a long textured finish.