2019 Burgundy: All Wines

This is undoubtedly one of the greatest premier cru sites in the Côte de Nuits. Clos Frantin are the proud owners of 1.75 hectares. It has a powerful but controlled aroma, laden with rich red fruits and oak spice. On the palate there is that core of sweetness you find only in the best examples of Pinot Noir, where freshness, ripeness, and power are all in perfect balance. Satin-like tannins and a powerful length.

This plot was once considered in the same breath as Chambertin and other great sites, so it now constitutes a real bargain. It is fruit, flamboyant, and fragrant in 2019, bursting with the scent of crushed raspberries. There is some stony minerality on the palate and delicious, crunchy little tannins. Bright and enticing.

Where Les Vaucoupins is discreet and reserved, Les Clos is expressive and powerful, with the full, luscious weight of the warm year behind it. 25% is raised in oak, of which only a tiny portion is new. This is a buttery, weighted, striking, and satisfying Les Clos, given exciting precision by the vintage’s wonderful acidity. Pretty smart for the money.

There are few premiers crus prized as highly as this. Many put Les Amoureuses on a par with grands crus, and it has stolen the hearts of many. It is the quintessential expression of Chambolle-Musigny, brimming with sweet redcurrant fruit, and gliding along on silky tannins.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

This wine is not only where his cellars are based, it is also the calling card of the domaine. It shows a burst of juicy red berries on the nose, with a lifted, minty freshness. The tannins are so strawberry-soft and supple that the overall impression is of an incredibly silky texture, that might feel like it were missing some structure if it weren’t for the elegant freshness of the Hautes-Côtes acidity. Nice peppery nuance to the cranberry fruit palate.

From next vintage, Ch de Fuissé will finally be able to put ‘premier cru’ on the label of this wine. Le Clos, a 2.7 hectare monopole vineyard that lies just next to the Château, has been selected as one of the finest parcels in the appellation and deserving of this historic upgrade. The oldest vines here were planted in 1929, and the youngest in 1984. There is such a chiselled intensity in this wine, with smoky tension, and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is precise, energetic and persistent. It is no surprise this will be upgraded to premier cru.

This is arguably the most famous and celebrated of Puligny’s premiers crus, whose chalky soils have produced some of the finest bottles of white Burgundy ever. There is such a precise attack here, with a marked salinity. Notes of grapefruit and spring flowers on the nose, with a palate that is so distinctly racy, this couldn’t be anything other than Puligny.

Since 2012, Alain has been exchanging juice with a neighbour, for just one barrel of this astonishing grand cru that he vinifies and ages in his cellar along with his premiers crus. It has a big bite, and nectarine plump juiciness underneath. This has richness and definition, and a long saline finish.

The plot of Charmes in Puligny is a continuation of 1er Cru Charmes in Meursault, and shares many of its characteristics, like the light, fine, stony soils. It certainly merits single bottling, with its fine-boned nervous freshness and delicate richness underneath. Plenty of fragrant, fresh yellow fruit and a light blossom note. Great value.

Aux Réas is an excellent village lieu dit that a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It sits at the southern end of the village, and its wines can offer some of neighbouring Nuits’ structure and firmness, with the supple, rippling fruit of classical Vosne.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice. It has an intensity and volumes that will unfurl with time.

Sweet-fruited, red berries, with some rounded silky tannins and the vintage’s signature freshness on the finish.

This is the largest premier cru at Ballot-Millot, and can be relied upon to produce a sensational wine year-in year-out. It is so savoury, weighty, but not heavy, dense and with fabulous purity. Outstanding.

This sits amongst a clutch of the top premiers crus in the village. The vines are over 80 years old, and have weathered the hot summer well. This is enticing and floral, with a poised edge. It has brilliant tension and precision, with a staggering length.

Morgeot borders Santenay at the south end of the village, and is not only the largest premier cru in Chassagne, but the largest cru in the Côte d’Or. This wine is a blend of two lieux dits within: Les Fairendes and La Cadeuse, found at either end of the large cru. There is such intense fruit here, with plump orange pulp character, some white blossom, and light citrus oil, enrobed in zinging freshness.

The fruit comes from a number of parcels, all within the Chassagne commune. Alex says he looks for energy rather than too much ripeness in his Bourgogne. This has a wonderfully sweet core of nectarine, and some tart freshness balancing the natural roundness of the wine. A fragrant and charming Bourgogne Blanc, you will never regret having a few bottles of this in the cellar.

Consistently one of the finest sites in St-Aubin, towards the crest of the hill approaching Chassagne and its grands crus. Vibrant lime green flecks in the glass. The wine has a vibrant aroma of greengages, ripe peaches and blossom. Pure and very balanced.

This wine has been bottled as a single vineyard cuvée by Amélie’s father for many years, and remains the flagship wine of the estate. It is just over a hectare and sits right in the heart of the appellation, just below the village itself. The alluvial soils, particularly at the bottom of the parcel, are well-draining. The vines age between 15 and 70 years, and the wine has a brilliantly grippy fresh fruit drive with ample tannins and a spicy backbone.

This comes from a parcel of 60-year-old vines grown on the granite slopes of Mont Brouilly. These volcanic soils produce a wonderfully persistent style of Beaujolais, with the charming strawberry and cherry fruits on the nose. The palate abounds with dark juicy fruit and ripe, grippy tannins and a vibrat length. This has the structure to age extremely well.

This comes from the older vines in one of the domaine’s three large vineyards above Nantoux, named Bignon, where the elevation measures precisely 421 metres. Much like the young vine cuvée, this has a mellifluous fluidity and charm, with an added intensity of red fruit: delicious crunchy cranberry flavours, with a little new oak toastiness to support. Expertly done, this is a stunning debut.

This remarkable village lieu dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has a dark-fruited depth, with a tannin structure that feels so sumptuous and silky. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru.

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, and were planted in 1902. Their concentration and complexity shows on the nose, which is chalky, floral, pretty, and spicy. The wine has so much energy, tightly coiled, and sinewy, with a pomegranate weight and floral power.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. There is a spicy depth of fruit on the nose, and a surprisingly fine, elegant frame on the palate. It always has a sweet salinity to it, which complements the nicely ripe fruit in 2019. A charming Gevrey premier cru that should drink well from early on. One of Bruno’s personal favourites.

Clos de Bèze is slightly steeper and warmer than Chambertin, and the heights of complexity and concentration in its fruit is remarkable. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s, which are affectionately still referred to as the young plants. It is nuanced, saline, floral, tantalisingly fresh, with such a profound ripe berry fruit. A wine of incredible soul.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard alongside the grands crus. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine is heavenly - so precise and elegant, with poised, savoury fruit. There is something so tender here, though not at all sweet. It is one of the most grown-up Gevreys you can find.

This is the most linear and acid-driven of Bruno’s premiers crus, with a zingy line running through the palate. Light almond and hazelnut notes add depth and complexity. The most subtle and precise in the cellar.

En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. It is a standout wine in Bruno’s cellar - so elegant and pure. The high elevation here, rocky soils, and old vines means yields are particularly low, and the wine is concentrated and explosive, with such tense precision.

This comes from eight plots across the village, with vines aged between 15 and 75 years. The older vines give structure and depth, whilst the younger vines add freshness and a little spice. It shows a restrained, chiselled example of the village, with a little touch of new oak giving structure and support to the white nectarine fruit. Focused and textured.

Always one of our favourite wines here, the Bressandes is always the most fleshy and appealing of their Cortons. The thin topsoil is very stony, with gravel over limestone. It always has a dark berry character, with some wild herbs in the background.

This is a steep site with very high limestone soils. It always produces a nervous, tight wine that can do with a year or two in bottle before the floral notes can blossom.

Pernande-Vergelesse is just slightly cooler than neighbouring Savigny, and the wines often have this spicy, mineral freshness about them. This is always a charming example.

This monopole is a giant amongst the great terroirs of the Côte de Beaune. This walled vineyard is over 5 hectares and contains within it some of the finest plant material in Burgundy – a great source of massal selection for growers around the world. The old vines – some in their 100th year – are low yielding but remarkably resilient. A good third down in volume in 2019, this is one of the wines to bag early on. It is ripe and full, but so fresh and pure, and elegantly powerful. Paul Zinetti continues to prove that the Clos des Epeneaux is one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

Les Frémiets borders Pommard, and this wine has something of the character of both villages. Old vines here make a concentrated wine, with profound depth and sweet-fruited complexity. Gentle acidity and supple tannins bode well for the future.

This is a secret gem of a wine to know about: outstanding value, and over-delivers in a big way in vintages like 2019. It's a blend of young vine fruit (now 10 years old) with some 90-year old Aligoté Dorée, whose tiny, golden berries are packed with vibrant flavours.

This is arguably the best placed village parcel in the whole of Gevrey, sandwiched between Griotte- and Charmes-Chambertin. It makes such an elegant style, with finer, silkier tannins than other village blends. It is open and juicy, with a delicately mineral, complex finish.

This wine from the Côte Chalonnaise is one of the bargains of Burgundy. It performs every year, and offers excellent value. The 2019 is so expressive, bursting with crushed raspberry aromas, with crunchy freshness on the palate. Reliable and brilliant.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian Grands Crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). It is sweet and smoky, dripping with red fruits. There’s a serious amount of body beneath the inviting aromas, and this wine should develop great complexity and depth over the years.

This is another recent addition to the Felettig stable. It comes from the northern sector of the Côte de Nuits, from the commune just north of Gevrey-Chambertin. Its 300m elevation and 20% incline give it freshness and grippy precision.

As the name suggests, this is situated in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny, and is a monopole of the domaine that we’d argue is premier cru quality. There’s lots of limestone in the soil here, and the 2019 is agile and bright, with juicy flow.

Caillerets takes its name from the tiny stones that litter the vineyard’s soil, and it’s one of the village’s most highly prized sites. This 2019 is exuberant, and hugely exciting. There is a beautiful expression of orange peel, and a spicy, mineral edge to the palate. Wonderfully pure and pristine, with excellent detail.

This fulfils every bit of its grand cru potential: it has a mesmerising nose of orchard fruit perfectly supported by the toasty, savoury oak. This is so big and powerful, but not at all heavy. Its energy gives it a drive and movement.