2019 Burgundy: All Wines

This is undoubtedly one of the greatest premier cru sites in the Côte de Nuits. Clos Frantin are the proud owners of 1.75 hectares. It has a powerful but controlled aroma, laden with rich red fruits and oak spice. On the palate there is that core of sweetness you find only in the best examples of Pinot Noir, where freshness, ripeness, and power are all in perfect balance. Satin-like tannins and a powerful length.

This plot was once considered in the same breath as Chambertin and other great sites, so it now constitutes a real bargain. It is fruit, flamboyant, and fragrant in 2019, bursting with the scent of crushed raspberries. There is some stony minerality on the palate and delicious, crunchy little tannins. Bright and enticing.

Where Les Vaucoupins is discreet and reserved, Les Clos is expressive and powerful, with the full, luscious weight of the warm year behind it. 25% is raised in oak, of which only a tiny portion is new. This is a buttery, weighted, striking, and satisfying Les Clos, given exciting precision by the vintage’s wonderful acidity. Pretty smart for the money.

There are few premiers crus prized as highly as this. Many put Les Amoureuses on a par with grands crus, and it has stolen the hearts of many. It is the quintessential expression of Chambolle-Musigny, brimming with sweet redcurrant fruit, and gliding along on silky tannins.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

The Long-Depaquit parcel is situated right at the crest of the hill. This premier cru is reserved, tight and fresh with lemon zest and salty notes defining the palate. Some gunflint smoky notes should develop mineral complexity with time in bottle. A little shy right now, it should blossom a year or two. Excellent value for a premier cru.

La Moutonne is a unique parcel – a monopole that has only had three owners since the middle ages. On an incredibly steep slope, this ancient climat straddles the two grands crus: Vaudésir (95% of the parcel) and Preuses (just 5%). It has breadth and silky depth, and sensational balance. This is one of the finest examples of Chablis Grand Cru you will find and brings with it fantastic ageing potential.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

Domaine du Clos Frantin owns a parcel in the Champs Traversins part of this vineyard, high on the hill, which is noted for its fine expression. This is nicely silky and spicy, with graphite notes alongside the red berry fruit. Understated, svelte, and very sophisticated.

Domaine du Clos Frantin owns a parcel in the Champs Traversins part of this vineyard, high on the hill, which is noted for its fine expression. This is nicely silky and spicy, with graphite notes alongside the red berry fruit. Understated, svelte, and very sophisticated.

This wine is not only where his cellars are based, it is also the calling card of the domaine. It shows a burst of juicy red berries on the nose, with a lifted, minty freshness. The tannins are so strawberry-soft and supple that the overall impression is of an incredibly silky texture, that might feel like it were missing some structure if it weren’t for the elegant freshness of the Hautes-Côtes acidity. Nice peppery nuance to the cranberry fruit palate.

This vineyard lies just next to some of Nuits-St-Georges’s finest premiers crus, at the top of the hill, sheltered by the fringe of woodland above. It has this distinctive pink peppercorn note with fresh redcurrants on the nose. The tannins are slightly more granular and grippy than the previous wines, and add a pretty structure to this wine, which bodes well for its evolution over time.

This superb vineyard in Vosne makes such floral and elegant wines. With velvety texture yet saline tension, and dark berry fruits with a little grip, this should begin to sing after five years.

This is the defining wine of the grand cru, the one to which everyone looks as the quintessential Corton-Charlemagne. The west-facing aspect of the hill means the vines enjoy the long rays of the afternoon sun, making for rich textures and a sumptuous depth of fruit. It is always exhilarating to taste, with rich layers of exuberant fruit and creamy, lightly spiced notes giving freshness and balance.

From next vintage, Ch de Fuissé will finally be able to put ‘premier cru’ on the label of this wine. Le Clos, a 2.7 hectare monopole vineyard that lies just next to the Château, has been selected as one of the finest parcels in the appellation and deserving of this historic upgrade. The oldest vines here were planted in 1929, and the youngest in 1984. There is such a chiselled intensity in this wine, with smoky tension, and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is precise, energetic and persistent. It is no surprise this will be upgraded to premier cru.

This comes from three parcels, two of which come from the limestone soiled near the distinctive Solutré rock, and the third from a richer clay site near Pouilly. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has a wonderful freshness in 2019, with light citrus aromatics, and a clean, chalky finish.

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, giving a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half comes from Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest from limestone and sandy schist soils. 95% of the wine is aged in oak, with 15% in new oak. There is a hazelnut toastiness on the nose, and the bright balance of mandarin orange on the palate. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year. In 2019 it is, as ever, a highlight.

This is arguably the most famous and celebrated of Puligny’s premiers crus, whose chalky soils have produced some of the finest bottles of white Burgundy ever. There is such a precise attack here, with a marked salinity. Notes of grapefruit and spring flowers on the nose, with a palate that is so distinctly racy, this couldn’t be anything other than Puligny.

Since 2012, Alain has been exchanging juice with a neighbour, for just one barrel of this astonishing grand cru that he vinifies and ages in his cellar along with his premiers crus. It has a big bite, and nectarine plump juiciness underneath. This has richness and definition, and a long saline finish.

The plot of Charmes in Puligny is a continuation of 1er Cru Charmes in Meursault, and shares many of its characteristics, like the light, fine, stony soils. It certainly merits single bottling, with its fine-boned nervous freshness and delicate richness underneath. Plenty of fragrant, fresh yellow fruit and a light blossom note. Great value.

Clavoillon is shared between just three owners: Alain, his brother, and Domaine Leflaive. Alain’s vines are now 50 years old, and produce a concentrated, elegant example of Puligny. It is piercing, floral, and runs straight as a die on the palate, with mouthwatering minerality.

Aux Réas is an excellent village lieu dit that a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It sits at the southern end of the village, and its wines can offer some of neighbouring Nuits’ structure and firmness, with the supple, rippling fruit of classical Vosne.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice. It has an intensity and volumes that will unfurl with time.

Sweet-fruited, red berries, with some rounded silky tannins and the vintage’s signature freshness on the finish.

This is a stand-out in the Arlaud cellar in 2019, with suave red fruit, blood orange,and mineral structure. The 40 year old vines in the Clos de la Roche have really performed in 2019. This should have a long life ahead of it.

This comes from the very highest point of the Mazoyères section of Charmes. It has such fine powdery tannins, wrapped in cool red fruit. The power and weight of the grand cru build across the palate.

This is the largest premier cru at Ballot-Millot, and can be relied upon to produce a sensational wine year-in year-out. It is so savoury, weighty, but not heavy, dense and with fabulous purity. Outstanding.

This sits amongst a clutch of the top premiers crus in the village. The vines are over 80 years old, and have weathered the hot summer well. This is enticing and floral, with a poised edge. It has brilliant tension and precision, with a staggering length.

Charmes is one of the defining crus of the village. Its limestone terroir has just 30cm of topsoil, and it has produced a wine with blistering energy in 2019. It has the zing, depth, and structure to age brilliantly.

Narvaux is one of Meursault's best village lieux dits, sitting relatively high up on the slope, above Genevrières. There is such wonderful pithy grapefruit bitterness, with a straight and incisive line of acidity, and a voluptuous depth of stone fruit on the mid-palate. It is bright and poised, and with subtle smokiness. It is a highly complex village wine that should evolve well for many years.

Morgeot borders Santenay at the south end of the village, and is not only the largest premier cru in Chassagne, but the largest cru in the Côte d’Or. This wine is a blend of two lieux dits within: Les Fairendes and La Cadeuse, found at either end of the large cru. There is such intense fruit here, with plump orange pulp character, some white blossom, and light citrus oil, enrobed in zinging freshness.

The fruit comes from a number of parcels, all within the Chassagne commune. Alex says he looks for energy rather than too much ripeness in his Bourgogne. This has a wonderfully sweet core of nectarine, and some tart freshness balancing the natural roundness of the wine. A fragrant and charming Bourgogne Blanc, you will never regret having a few bottles of this in the cellar.

Consistently one of the finest sites in St-Aubin, towards the crest of the hill approaching Chassagne and its grands crus. Vibrant lime green flecks in the glass. The wine has a vibrant aroma of greengages, ripe peaches and blossom. Pure and very balanced.

Just one barrel made in 2019 of this magnificent wine. It is one of the finest sites in the village, with particularly stony soils, producing tense, vibrant, acid-driven wines. In 2019 the low yields have produced an amazing concentration. It is utterly delicious.

As one might expect, this grand cru is a glittering example of this superb terroir. Its fruit and freshness have a beguiling energy. Anyone who gets to enjoy this in the years to come is very lucky indeed.

La Maltroie is one of the larger premiers crus in Chassagne. It sits right in the middle of the village, opposite the Moreau cellar. This has a straight attack, with scintillating pink grapefruit on the mid-palate, that has a good volume, and is drawn together nicely in a long, piercing finish.

As might be expected from a producer of this calibre, this village wine offers complexity and depth on par with some other producers’ premiers crus. Its production accounts for 40% of the domaine’s output, being drawn from many sites across the village, half of which are tucked up in the pocket of village vines than hug the premiers crus, the other half from the village’s border with Puligny-Montrachet. It has a nutty, full freshness, and a concentrated yellow/green fruit character, and a brilliant persistence.

This wine has been bottled as a single vineyard cuvée by Amélie’s father for many years, and remains the flagship wine of the estate. It is just over a hectare and sits right in the heart of the appellation, just below the village itself. The alluvial soils, particularly at the bottom of the parcel, are well-draining. The vines age between 15 and 70 years, and the wine has a brilliantly grippy fresh fruit drive with ample tannins and a spicy backbone.

With Richebourg and Cros Parantoux as neighbours, you can expect great things from this vineyard. Amelie has five separate plots across half a hectare. The site is so steep and inaccessible that no tractors can reach it, and all work is done by horse or hand. The 2019 delivers a concentration and persistence commensurate with its fine position: lavish red fruit, tight acidity, and powerful but velvet-like tannins.

This steep-sloped vineyard is one of Gevrey’s most highly-regarded premiers crus. It makes a wine of structure and depth, with broad, sumptuous tannins and heady dark fruit.

Fixin doesn’t have any grand crus, but in Amélie’s eyes, this is a pretty close estimation. It has very shallow soils, and the vines, now aged 30-80 years old, dig deep. 30% whole bunch brings a fleshy, plump fruit core to the wine that has ample tannins, and dark licorice spice. Crunchy cool fruit, and a long, mineral finish.

If Les Crais is her father’s cuvée, then this is Amélie’s. The wine used to go into their village blend, but Amélie has been bottling it separately since 2013. The vines are now 70 years old, and in 2019 she has expertly used 35% whole bunch in the tank to add sweet fruit tones and off-set the crunchy, more savoury aspect of the fruit. The combination is a triumph. This is fresh, vibrant, and satisfyingly sappy.

This comes from a parcel of 60-year-old vines grown on the granite slopes of Mont Brouilly. These volcanic soils produce a wonderfully persistent style of Beaujolais, with the charming strawberry and cherry fruits on the nose. The palate abounds with dark juicy fruit and ripe, grippy tannins and a vibrat length. This has the structure to age extremely well.

This comes from the older vines in one of the domaine’s three large vineyards above Nantoux, named Bignon, where the elevation measures precisely 421 metres. Much like the young vine cuvée, this has a mellifluous fluidity and charm, with an added intensity of red fruit: delicious crunchy cranberry flavours, with a little new oak toastiness to support. Expertly done, this is a stunning debut.

This comes from the young vines of the domaine, and has a red fruit, juicy, peppery sappiness, with a tantalisingly long, silky, salty finish. The chalky acidity and velvety tannins are a revelation. This is so far removed from the rustic, green, watery wines that once were commonplace in the Hautes-Côtes; this is a serious wine, but its refreshing fluidity means it is first and foremost a joyful and delicious Pinot. There’s nothing complicated to unpick here: it is simply a gorgeous wine.

This remarkable village lieu dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has a dark-fruited depth, with a tannin structure that feels so sumptuous and silky. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru.

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, and were planted in 1902. Their concentration and complexity shows on the nose, which is chalky, floral, pretty, and spicy. The wine has so much energy, tightly coiled, and sinewy, with a pomegranate weight and floral power.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. There is a spicy depth of fruit on the nose, and a surprisingly fine, elegant frame on the palate. It always has a sweet salinity to it, which complements the nicely ripe fruit in 2019. A charming Gevrey premier cru that should drink well from early on. One of Bruno’s personal favourites.

Clos de Bèze is slightly steeper and warmer than Chambertin, and the heights of complexity and concentration in its fruit is remarkable. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s, which are affectionately still referred to as the young plants. It is nuanced, saline, floral, tantalisingly fresh, with such a profound ripe berry fruit. A wine of incredible soul.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard alongside the grands crus. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine is heavenly - so precise and elegant, with poised, savoury fruit. There is something so tender here, though not at all sweet. It is one of the most grown-up Gevreys you can find.

Bruno Clair has an impressive 10 hectares in his home village of Marsannay, and bottles five separate cuvées, including this wonderful iteration from a single parcel at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its name (meaning “fat heads”) refers not to anybody involved in its cultivation, but rather the large rocks that show through the surface of the soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2019 has peppery red fruit and a fresh crunch that runs through the mineral tannins. Quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair. Since being bottled it has evolved to reveal a wonderfully floral aroma with a supple palate, so poised and juicy. This will drink brilliantly from early on.

This is the most linear and acid-driven of Bruno’s premiers crus, with a zingy line running through the palate. Light almond and hazelnut notes add depth and complexity. The most subtle and precise in the cellar.

En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. It is a standout wine in Bruno’s cellar - so elegant and pure. The high elevation here, rocky soils, and old vines means yields are particularly low, and the wine is concentrated and explosive, with such tense precision.

This comes from eight plots across the village, with vines aged between 15 and 75 years. The older vines give structure and depth, whilst the younger vines add freshness and a little spice. It shows a restrained, chiselled example of the village, with a little touch of new oak giving structure and support to the white nectarine fruit. Focused and textured.

This tiny parcel is a family treasure, and just one barrel was made this year. This pinnacle of the Bruno Colin cellar is powerful and complex, with the exotically spiced scent of white tea on the nose and a deliciously weighty but graceful palate. Truly great.

This premier crus shares borders with two grands crus: Le Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. It takes its name from the white, chalky soils found here, and it delivers everything in the glass you might expect from such a superb position and soil-type. The flavours - apricot, honeysuckle, lime, and white peach - are so dense, but zip across the palate with such swift grace. It is the most captivating and sensuous wine in Bruno’s cellar this year.

This tiny plot near the border with St-Aubin produces a luxurious, smoky, powerful wine with energetic ripeness and a wonderful grapefruit character. It has excelled in 2019, with concentrated fruit character and the vintage’s exuberate freshness.

Always one of our favourite wines here, the Bressandes is always the most fleshy and appealing of their Cortons. The thin topsoil is very stony, with gravel over limestone. It always has a dark berry character, with some wild herbs in the background.

This is a steep site with very high limestone soils. It always produces a nervous, tight wine that can do with a year or two in bottle before the floral notes can blossom.

Pernande-Vergelesse is just slightly cooler than neighbouring Savigny, and the wines often have this spicy, mineral freshness about them. This is always a charming example.

This comes from the sandy west-facing soils on the lower part of the village’s slope, which enjoy a cool and fresh microclimate. Always zippy and fragrant.

This is a blend of grapes from Corton-Bressandes and Corton-Chaumes. It always displays an abundance of white fruit aromas, complemented by the little hint of vanilla and spice from the oak.

The soil in Les Lavières is high in limestone, and produces a wine with lots of mineral bite, and a floral nose. This is a cuvée where the gentler pressing of the vertical press has given greater elegance and silkiness to the structure.

Aux Fourneaux finds itself on a steep slope which can, as the name suggests, be a sun-trap in the summer. These vines were planted in 1956 and the wine they produce is concentrated and intense, with dark berry flavours.

This monopole is a giant amongst the great terroirs of the Côte de Beaune. This walled vineyard is over 5 hectares and contains within it some of the finest plant material in Burgundy – a great source of massal selection for growers around the world. The old vines – some in their 100th year – are low yielding but remarkably resilient. A good third down in volume in 2019, this is one of the wines to bag early on. It is ripe and full, but so fresh and pure, and elegantly powerful. Paul Zinetti continues to prove that the Clos des Epeneaux is one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

Les Frémiets borders Pommard, and this wine has something of the character of both villages. Old vines here make a concentrated wine, with profound depth and sweet-fruited complexity. Gentle acidity and supple tannins bode well for the future.

This is a secret gem of a wine to know about: outstanding value, and over-delivers in a big way in vintages like 2019. It's a blend of young vine fruit (now 10 years old) with some 90-year old Aligoté Dorée, whose tiny, golden berries are packed with vibrant flavours.

The domaine's tiny holdings of Chardonnay are situated on the flat plain opposite Pommard and Volnay. Only made in tiny quantities, there was just one large barrel in 2019. It is zesty and bright, with some tropical notes thanks to the Muscat clone of Chardonnay they have.

This comes from a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep, well-drained, with very limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. This is less spicy than the village, but more powerful. Fragrant aromatic fruit and zesty acidity should see this go the distance. If you can wait a few years, this could be one of the best buys in your cellar.

This must be one of the best value, most characterful, and fun reds on our list. It is juicy and bright, with plenty of body. The 20% whole bunch works well here, adding a light, spicy frame to the crunchy red fruit. Just five barrels made.

A blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. Only five barrels of this wonderful wine were made in 2019 – a drastic reduction on a normal yield. It has a grippy palate and nose bursting with red fruit aromas. Wonderful mineral freshness in the elegant tannins. This is such a brilliant example of the domaine. Don’t miss.

This is arguably the best placed village parcel in the whole of Gevrey, sandwiched between Griotte- and Charmes-Chambertin. It makes such an elegant style, with finer, silkier tannins than other village blends. It is open and juicy, with a delicately mineral, complex finish.

This is a little paler in colour than the other grands crus. The extraction has been carefully handled to draw out some lovely silkiness. There is a little light peppery spice on the palate that adds freshness and a little structure. Very long and detailed.

This is fast becoming one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. The vineyard was planted in 1920, and you can feel the power of the old vines in the glass. There is so much power. But it is delivered with such effortless charm. Saline, savoury, and utterly superb.

The Durochés have five parcels within Charmes. The 2019 is so completely charming, with an effortless finesse about its frame. Wonderfully perfumed with sweet red berries and a little spice. And a great finish.

This wonderful vineyard is perched in the middle of the Combe de Lavaux - the cooler south-east facing hillside in Gevrey’s northern sector. It is right next to one of the finest of all premiers crus, Clos St Jacques. This wine is nuanced, deep and wonderfully long.

Duroché owns a sizable 1 hectare parcel of this premier cru. It soars with dark cherry power and persistence. The fruit and tannins are balanced in such harmonious poise, and the vineyard’s classic cool undertow is on magnificent display in 2019.

This wine from the Côte Chalonnaise is one of the bargains of Burgundy. It performs every year, and offers excellent value. The 2019 is so expressive, bursting with crushed raspberry aromas, with crunchy freshness on the palate. Reliable and brilliant.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian Grands Crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). It is sweet and smoky, dripping with red fruits. There’s a serious amount of body beneath the inviting aromas, and this wine should develop great complexity and depth over the years.

Les Cazetiers lies right alongside Clos Saint-Jacques on the Combe de Lavaux. Its easterly exposure combined with cool, elevated position make for outstanding freshness in the wines. With plenty of smoky, savoury new oak to support the scintillating fruit, this should begin to unfurl magnificently with a few years in bottle.

Latricières always feels a little cooler than Charmes next door. A gently but cool breeze draws down the valley, keeping freshness and minerality in the grapes. It is so pure and elegant in 2019, with an ethereal rose petal perfume. A beautifully balanced weight on the palate, and fine freshness right to the end make for a sophisticated expression of the vintage.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey grands crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. The sleek Faiveley oak adds spice and structure to this deep and seductive wine.

This is another recent addition to the Felettig stable. It comes from the northern sector of the Côte de Nuits, from the commune just north of Gevrey-Chambertin. Its 300m elevation and 20% incline give it freshness and grippy precision.

As the name suggests, this is situated in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny, and is a monopole of the domaine that we’d argue is premier cru quality. There’s lots of limestone in the soil here, and the 2019 is agile and bright, with juicy flow.

One of a rare breed, a Nuits St Georges 1er Cru blanc. Only 900 bottles are made every year. Full and fleshy, with a bright, mineral drive.

This uncelebrated ‘other’ white grape from Burgundy is enjoying a moment: the wines are fresh, vibrant, wonderful for early drinking and offer unparalleled value. The Felettig example is everything we’re looking for: salty, fresh, and moreish.

A classic example from this cooler region in the hills above the Côte de Beaune. It is peachy and smooth, with lovely tension and a silky texture.

A spectacularly well placed vineyard that enjoyed a commanding view, and its perched just above Clos de Tart Grand Cru.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). Full of black cherries, with a creamy texture and silky length. Structured and complex.

This comes from 65 year old vines, that in 2019 have created a spicy purity. Les Charmes might take its name from the trees that were once planted here, but it is, incidentally, a particularly charming wine across the vintages, highlighted in this 2019.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). Full of black cherries, with a creamy texture and silky length. Structured and complex.

This cuvée has only been made by Domaine Felettig since 2018. It comes from a half hectare plot on the gentle slope towards the top of the Montagne de Beaune, just underneath Montée Rouge.

The domaine has vines in two plots on either side of Nuits: Les Chariots in the south and Aux Lavières in the north. There is a Chambolle signature woven through the Nuits fruit here: nice structure, but overall still very silky.

Caillerets takes its name from the tiny stones that litter the vineyard’s soil, and it’s one of the village’s most highly prized sites. This 2019 is exuberant, and hugely exciting. There is a beautiful expression of orange peel, and a spicy, mineral edge to the palate. Wonderfully pure and pristine, with excellent detail.

This fulfils every bit of its grand cru potential: it has a mesmerising nose of orchard fruit perfectly supported by the toasty, savoury oak. This is so big and powerful, but not at all heavy. Its energy gives it a drive and movement.

La Maltroie is located just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village. The domaine owns two parcels, one of 0.56 hectares and the other 0.17 hectares. Céline says it is always approachable, and in 2019 it is bursting with zesty fresh lemon. The palate is salty, noticeably weighted with a satisfying depth, and a persistent finish.

The greatest of all white grands crus, in 2019 it has the abundant sweet ripe fruit of just picked juicy peaches. It is absolutely singing, even at this early stage. The length and complexity of flavour here promise an astonishing life ahead. It was a true privilege to taste.

Criots is a tiny grand cru, just one and a half hectares, making Fontaine-Gagnard one of the largest owners, with one third of a hectare. The south-facing slope, with poor limestone soils, yields a wine with superb power and tension. Fragrant, explosive fruit: a mouthwatering style. Floral and complex.

This is a rich and nutty expression of the village; full and energetic, with a ripe nectarine character and a salty acidity on the balanced finish. As ever, a benchmark Chassagne from one of our favourite producers, and excellent value.

This is indisputably one of the greatest premiers crus of Chassagne. Fontaine-Gagnard has two parcels, both east-facing and steep, with well draining soil. The vineyard is right next to a small forest, and apparently you can often see animals venturing into the vines. It is incredibly low yielding, and has produced a wine of formidable concentration, with a smoky, slaty, salted length. Absolute dynamite.

This is indisputably one of the greatest premiers crus of Chassagne. Fontaine-Gagnard has two parcels, both east-facing and steep, with well draining soil. The vineyard is right next to a small forest, and apparently you can often see animals venturing into the vines. It is incredibly low yielding, and has produced a wine of formidable concentration, with a smoky, slaty, salted length. Absolute dynamite.

Nicole has three parcels within this grand cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. In 2019 she vinified all three separately, which helps add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is spicy and deep, with some sinewy muscle flexing underneath the berry fruit and savoury tannins. An outstanding Clos de Vougeot, so long and refined, but with some power beneath.

This wine is exclusive to Lay & Wheeler in the UK. It is a steep site that sits right up against Aux Boudots on the Vosne side of the appellation. It has the finesse of Vosne and the power of Nuits - a pretty appealing combination. Some of the very old vines were recently replaced, so the production of this site is strictly limited at the moment.

This monopole grand cru in the heart of Vosne between two Domaine de la Romanée-Conti monopoles - La Tâche and La Romanée-Conti - is the flagship wine of the estate. Its increased quality in recent years is the primary reason this domaine’s star is in the ascendency. This has a wealth of fruit, and the grace and power of this superb site are evident in the fine, elegant length. Complex, voluminous, and poised. Unquestionably one of the finest iterations of this site.

From a parcel in Concoeur-et-Courboin, on the hills just above Vosne. It is sappy and fruity, pale, and approachable, with a delicate astringency that adds elegance and structure.

This is one of the greatest sites in Burgundy, and often gives grands crus a run for their money. This 2019 is a delicate pale ruby, with superbly lifted aromatics on the nose. The palate is powerful and precise with some graphite tension. Outstanding.

This is so wonderfully aromatic, so sweetly and dramatically scented with wild strawberries, sous bois, and sweet spice, all married with a fine vegetal note, giving freshness and complexity. The palate is flowing and supple, with opulent tannins and a subtle weighty length. Superb.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s most substantial premiers crus, famous for producing particularly long-lived wines. It is a little closed up in youth, with some density and power locked in. With a few years, this closed structure will yield to the suave tannins and its deep, mesmerising fruit core.

This might just be the best village wine out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy power. There are such voluptuous tannins and depth of fruit. It is powerful and silky, and utterly delicious.

This comes from just one parcel in Vosne-Romanée, planted in 1955. The wines are yielding such low volumes that the domaine is in the process of replanting, one quarter of the parcel at a time. The yield in 2019 was just 20 hl/ha, and the result is a staggeringly concentrated Bourgogne Rouge. There is remarkable potency in the deep, structured fruit here. It should be fantastic for the next decade, which is not something you can say of every Bourgogne.

Mugneret-Gibourg has just one parcel within this sizable grand cru, planted in 1954. It is one of the finest examples of the vineyard, with depth, structure, length and complexity.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It is deeply perfumed with dark cherries and cranberry spice. Notes of peonies accent the palate, and the wine has a beguiling length. Hauntingly beautiful.

This lovely village vineyard lies right next to the family home and winery, extending out like a garden from the cellar doors. Their father had rented it to a neighbour, but the well-maintained vineyard came back under the domaine’s control again from 2017. It is a full-bodied, deeply-fruited village wine with superb density and a cool, supple, rich drive.

As with the Echezeaux, a small proportion of whole bunch is being used here to add nuance and lift. This takes the prize for the finest 2019 we tasted. Seamless, subtle, and ethereal.

65% of this comes from Rouges du Bas, the rest from the Quartier de Nuits section of the vineyard. It has a poised freshness and wonderfully fine tannins, giving the overall effect of effortless elegance. From 2016, the sisters started experimenting with a small amount of whole bunch, and in 2019 have continued with 15% in the blend, which delivers great expression in this wine.

This well-positioned vineyard on the Vosne side of the appellation sits on the slope, enjoying plenty of sunshine and the cooling ventilation of a constant breeze, keeping the fruit in excellent health during the growing season. This wine feels so gourmand, with rich, creamy tannins, and a dark, brambly length, with a suave, silky finish.

Gevrey provides the structure and savoury stature, Maxime provides the silky texture and long, poised finish.

This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny, Les Bons Batons. It has the perfect combination of tannins, fruit and acidity. With notes of rose petal and fresh berries, and a fine, lacy line of acidity with supply tannins, this feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne. Considerable ageing potential.

You won’t find much better than this at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and nuance, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her premiers crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins.

This vineyard lies right in the middle of the village, and Ghislaine says because it lies in a little dip, it’s always a cool spot, giving it an edge in warmer years. The vines are now 40 years old, and really hitting their stride. In 2019 it has produced a wine so quintessentially Chambolle, with a superb floral intensity, complex palate with layers of red berries, blood orange, smoke, and spice. Exceptional.

This is one of Ghislaine’s greatest cuvées, and marks a particular sweet spot even in this flight of remarkable wines. It is bursting with grenadine aromas, with some tart and refreshing acidity giving a lively energy to the palate that has a finesse and elegance as well a terrific power that should see it go the distance as one of the finest wines of the vintage.

This is the final wine we tasted of her 11 premiers crus, because its power and energy are so intense and tightly wound it would almost certainly obliterate anything that came after it. This will be worth cellaring for some time.

One of the lesser known Nuits premiers crus, this vineyard is shared with Domaine Robert Chevillon, just below Aux Thorey, on the Vosne side of the appellation. Its clay-rich soils have yielded a big-shouldered, powerful Nuits, with a complex and surprisingly silky palate with an ample, pleasing finish.

Aloxe-Corton, which hugs the hill of Corton, may not be the most famous village in the Côte d’Or, overshadowed both metaphorically and literally by the grands crus, but in the hands of winemakers like Etienne the results can be impressive - and good value. This is spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with a juicy palate that abounds with summer fruits and a voluminous, structured finish.

This single vineyard is located on the north side of Nuits, near Vosne-Romanée. It has a hint of that silkiness, but in its youth, the Nuits structure and stature dominate. This is a great example of the bold and muscular Nuits: fully bodied and full flavoured, with 2019’s brilliant freshness.

Etienne’s parcel is just next to Grands Echezeaux and has produced a magnificent wine in 2019. The fruit is so exuberant and full bodied, with a long, powerful finish of tremendous intensity.

Clos de la Chatenière is a steep south-facing parcel enclosed by a wall, with 65 year old vines. There are warmer red soils here, on the Puligny side of the village, and the wine is rich, and exuberant. A high level of millerandages amongst the old vines produces this added concentration, and the wine displays bramley apple, crystallised ginger, and salty lime spice. It is so poised and well balanced.

Les Frionnes is one of Olivier’s most important and favourite vineyards. He has 5 parcels within it, varying in age from 10 to 80 years old. The chalky soil here is very similar to the Kimmeridgian soils found in the Chablis. This, combined with the cool breeze that is drawn down the valley over Frionnes at night, has produced a wine with powerful, bright acidity, and minty, crisp apple length. This cool east-facing site was singed by frost in the spring, and volumes are down.

En Remilly is considered the finest vineyard in St-Aubin. This 2019 is powerful, chalky, smoky, and mineral. There is a noble vegetal note here - mineral intensity with some superbly well-judged reductive tension. It has less power and weight than the Chatenière but more drive and focus.

It is well-worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. The 2019 might just be the finest yet. Frost, high density planting, and organic farming mean low yields were reached, and this wine has manifest concentration. 70% whole bunch in the tank adds juicy spice, but underneath, this is clearly a wine of powerful and precise dimensions. The vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

Santenay is one of the southern-most villages of the Côte d’Or. This sunny spot on limestone soil was the first Olivier picked in 2019, and he has captured the precocious juiciness of the fruit, with the chiselled, zingy freshness of vibrant acidity and phenolic extract giving an overall cool mineral effect. Excellent.

This comes from a parcel called Basses Mazières, just below Suchots. It is dark in colour and has swirling, heady aromas of dark cherries. The palate has a distinct freshness and nice grip. Intense, and crystalline.

This comes from an astonishing 18 different parcels, many in the vineyards facing Chambolle-Musigny. Poor weather at flowering has, sadly, cut the normal yield in half. But what remains is just lovely - juicy and energetic, with soft berry fruit and a salty acidity. Good precision on the finish. If you’re quick enough to get it, it’s one of the bargains of the list.

This is a supreme example of Clos de Vougeot, which is not surprising given how well placed the two Hudelot-Noëllat parcels are, with one just next to the château in the sweet spot of the Clos. There is nothing austere or hard here, it is just so elegant and flowing, with cool, dark fruits and refined, mineral tannins.

Les Murgers is one of the finest positioned vineyards in Nuits, in the heart of the hillside on the Vosne-Romanée side of the town. In 2019, this is sensationally aromatic on the nose. The tannins are fairly firm and straight, but then wrapped in this gorgeous summer fruit coulis character. Outstanding.

High up the hill, on the limestone, this is one of Vosne’s most highly-regarded premiers crus. It is dark, spicy, and mineral, with stunningly long freshness on the finish.

This measures up to a grand cru in every sense. There is an amplitude of flavour - fruit, savoury complexity, and spicy depth - and a many-layered texture that one only sees in the greatest terroirs. Luxurious, deep cherry flavours explode on the palate. Just brilliant.

Clos de Vougeot might be a grand cru, but in the wrong hands it can be ungainly and heavy. In the hands of the Grivots, however, it is a finely woven, detailed and poised wine with beautiful power and length. The structure here is a little austere in its youth, but this is just the innate structure of the site taking centre stage so early on. This bodes well for some complex ageing, and the fruit will unfurl around the tannin architecture in time.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. When tasting, Etienne mentioned that Henri Jayer once told him to never, ever rip out these vines. He has since kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. 2019 is a tiny vintage though, with the volumes reduced from a usual 20 barrels to just eight. It is dark, dense, and impressively powerful, with a full and exuberant palate that fans out with black cassis concentration. Certainly not your run of the mill Gamay.

This is always one of the prettiest in the Grivot cellar, and in 2019, it has a full and floral bouquet of fresh strawberries and peonies. With sweet, rippling tannins and bright freshness, this is a great Pinot Noir.

This wine has earned a strong following for its superb quality, and will no doubt sell out quickly on release. As ever, this is suave and intense, with an opulent and dazzling freshness. The finish goes on and on. What a treat this will be in the future.

Beaux Monts is always one of the most impressive wines from this cellar. It is a beautiful vineyard in Vosne, and one of Etienne’s personal favourites. It has a rich, dark nose, with some softer, more voluptuous fruit edges. The palate shows wonderful finesse and elegance. Completely delicious.

The Grivots have at their fingertips lots of small parcels across the village, resulting in a wonderfully complete and complex village wine. In 2019 it is ripe, full-flavoured and bursting with dark hedgerow notes, and structured but silky tannins. A relatively full-bodied wine, it has a well-balanced weight and a long satisfying finish.

Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath 1er Cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and it’s quite a step up on your regular village cuvée. It is deeply structured, with layers of tobacco, spice, coffee, and dark cherries. Mineral tannins and a sumptuous fresh finish.

This is perennially one of the most in-demand wines in Burgundy. In 2019 it is dazzling. There is such a massive and distinguished power within the depths of this profound wine. A legend in the making.

This is one of the standouts in the Grivot cellar in 2019: plush, concentrated, and bursting with energy. The slippery smooth tannins wrapped around glossy dark fruit give the wine a lift and luminosity that sets it apart. The clay soils in the southern part of Nuits, sometimes accused of producing rustic wines, have helped the vines glide through the dry growing season of 2019, and have resulted in this glorious wine.

This well-located premier cru is just beneath Les Rugiens-Bas on the Volnay side of the village. It is one of the most improved wines of this estate over the past ten years. In 2019, it has some crunchy herbal notes amongst the red fruit notes, and an appealing salinity on the palate.

La Truffière has some of the poorest soil in Puligny, and the wines it produces often glide along at another level. This is zingy, potent, fragrant and complex. As long as you like, as well.

The domaine used to - technically - rent these vines from Jean-Marc’s mother, Lydie’s grandmother. She passed away two years ago and since then the domaine has inherited the two parcels, from which they make this explosively good wine. It has an exquisite mineral depth, voluptuous, powerful fruit, and a scintillating length. Formidable.

With seven parcels scattered across 3 hectares, of which five are located in Enseignères (a highly-regarded vineyard that touches the grands crus), the JM Boillot Puligny is one of the most complete and quintessential Pulignys we know. The 2019 is tight, fresh, saline, and lime-driven. There is something sappy and tense about the palate. Very good indeed.

From the Meursault side of the village, touching Meursault’s Charmes. This is tight and firm, and fairly closed in youth; it will need some time. But the lovely orange blossom character, with hints of almonds and a citrus finish, promises a complex and interesting development.

Their tiny parcel of the highly-regarded Combettes is situated between Les Referts and Champ Canet, right at the top of the Puligny slope. It soars in 2019: fantastic tension and persistence, with a grand cru-esque complexity. It has a majestic power and elegance. Wonderful focus and length, powerful and intense.

The Boillots have two parcels here, which together amount to just over one hectare. This 2019 already feels open and ready, with a ripe, generous character on the nose, followed by the classic Puligny salinity and drive on the palate.

This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits village wine is a firm Lay & Wheeler favourite. It has a superbly lifted cherry fruit nose, with some excellent minty freshness on the peppery palate. Exactly what you’d look for in this appellation, with the intensity and dimensions to out-perform some grander communal wines with a few years in bottle.

This is a mix of three plots across the grand cru. It has a increible intensity on the nose, laden with crushed raspberries and bright cranberry notes. There is something satisfyingly astringent on the palate - the tannins adding structure and definition, and promising excellent potential with some age.

Les Suchots is a decent sized premier cru, and shared amongst many of the finest growers here; but Alix’s 2019 might just take the prize for Suchots of the vintage. It has the vineyard’s typical structure, broad tannins, and dark fruit depth. But what sets this apart are the tannins: they add an elegance with their smoothness, giving the wine that great texture of apparent sweetness the best Pinots have. Powerful, and supremely well balanced.

Grands-Echezeaux is actually much smaller than Echezeaux, and its wines are much rarer. It can often, in the right hands, hold the edge in terms of quality. It’s hard to choose between Alix’s Echezeaux and Grands-Echezeaux this year, they are both exceptional, though this, drawn from just 0.2 hectares, is certainly the rare one, with very limited production. This is so powerful and focused, with substantial tannin texture, it should hold for a few decades.

Clos de Vougeot is a huge vineyard, so it matters where you’re placed. Jean-Marc Millot’s plot is in Grand Maupertui, which borders Grands-Echézeaux, often considered the finest part of the vineyard. This has ample fruit density and lift, with powerful but satin-like tannins.

This comes from two sites in Vosne, one bordering Suchots (Hautes Maizières) and the other Clos Vougeot (Les Violettes). It has an abundant, supple red fruit character, with the aroma of wild strawberries introducing this poised and elegant Vosne. There is delicious volume on the palate that culminates in a long and sophisticated finish.

This comes from two parcels with an average vine age of 40 years. One is located on the Pernand side of the hill, adding freshness, and the other in the centre of the hill, just beneath the Bonneau du Martray parcel. Only two barrels made.

Clos St Marc is a single plot within the larger Vergers vineyard where Jean-Marc’s 100+ year old vines make this a powerful, impressive Chassagne. It is tight and tense in its youth, and will unfurl with great grace in the years to come.

Les Vergers sits at the northern border with St-Aubin, on the slope just above Les Chenevottes. It has produced a floral, delicate, but firm style of Chassagne, with great drive and energy.

This steep stony limestone site has triumphed in 2019. A rich intensity on the nose of fresh mango and white flowers is followed by a palate that strikes like lightning with its acidity and energy. It will open up brilliantly within a few years. A very fine example of this regal site.

This vineyard is on the lower slopes of Puligny, just above Les Enseignères, and directly below the grands crus. It has a salty reduction on the nose, with the aroma of roasted peanuts entwined with zingy pineapple fruit. Delicious.

The pinnacle of Jean-Marc’s cellar. These vines are situated just above Le Montrachet. The higher altitude and poorer soil gives additional bite and minerality to the wine. Just one barrel made in 2019.

This is from three of the village’s best communal sites: Les Pierres (93-year-old vines), Mazures (40+), and Houilleres (30). The younger vines give lift, elegance and a vibrant drive, while the older vines give depth and power. This has citrus zest and grilled nuts on the nose, with an impressive density and volume on the palate. Such a stylish village wine.

Les Chenevottes has slightly deeper soils than some neighbouring vineyards, and the 70-year-old vines, with their deep roots, were able to endure the extreme summer in more comfort than some others. This is so mineral and precise, with scintillating lemon-scented power and a long textured finish.

This is a brilliant example of what Pinot Noir can do in Chassagne. The poor soils of Clos St Jean have long been one of the hotspots for Pinot in the village, and Jean-Marc counts himself lucky to have inherited this parcel of 100+ year old vines. He likes to make a gourmand style you can approach from youth, but don’t let that make you think this is lacking in concentration or sophistication. It is dark and spicy, with soft, sweet tannins, and a staggering concentration - you can feel the small volume of old vine fruit here.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With many old vines planted on the clay soil pockets around the village, he has produced some great examples in 2019. This is red-fruited, juicy, and minty on the nose. The palate abounds with pretty cherry fruit, and there is a lovely flicker of freshness that accompanies the grippy tannins along the finish.

This is undoubtedly the pinnacle of the Droin 2019s, and one of the finest grand cru cuvées in Chablis. Delicious on the nose, with mesmerising notes of citrus, oyster brine, and green apple. But whilst the nose is already so expressive, the palate will need time to fulfill its potential. There is so much power and elegance here, it will be worth the wait.

Benoît’s village Chablis is a go-to wine across the vintages. Highly sought-after for its reliability and brilliant quality, this cuvée is a thrill to bring to Lay & Wheeler this year. It has a beautifully chalky, citrus character, so typical of the Kimmeridgian soil here. Notes of oyster shell and a balanced, poised palate make this a pretty perfect wine at the price.

This is the first premier cru Benoît decides to show. It is so flinty and taut on the nose, with lime, lemon, apricot and floral aromas, followed by nice fleshiness on the palate. It feels fresh, ripe, and straight: a classic structure, with perhaps a touch more roundness than cooler years. This unoaked premier cru will drink well from early on.

This is a blend of five terroirs across the steep Vaillons premier cru. Blending gives Benoît the chance to introduce freshness, with higher acid fruit running through the riper parcels. 30% was fermented and aged in oak, giving a good depth of structure behind the bright and peachy fruit. It is usually one of the most forward and approachable in his cellar, and 2019 is no different, with its lovely scent of spring flowers. No need to wait here; it has the energy and tension to make it open from youth.

This stands out in the Droin flight for its smoky, gunflint reduction. Benoît says Vosgros always shows a petrolly note in its youth, which marries beautifully with the impressive intensity on the palate in 2019. There is a quiet and refined austerity in this wine’s grip, expertly chiselled by the stainless steel fermentation and ageing. Very fine indeed.

The Valmur displays its calibre in its depth of fruit and precision. There are extra layers of floral precision here, and formidable drive on the finish. It has a wonderful length, and will reward those who are patient as its finely balanced elements evolve over the years.

This is a sunny, south-facing vineyard, and the Droin vines are old, and low yielding. In 2019 you can feel the concentration of the vintage. Its nose is laden with peaches, ripe pears, and an elegant reduction. The salinity and mineral energy of the palate carry the full body of the wine with admirable grace. Powerful and persistent.

40% of this has been fermented and aged in oak, giving it a distinctly Burgundian feel. The vineyard has marly soil, and its wine’s aroma is like slicing through a juicy lemon. The oak helps give the palate structure and satisfying buttery depth, though the wine remains focused and nervous to the end.

There is always a clear gear shift when you reach the grands crus of the Droin cellar, with their greater density and focus. The Vaudésir is much like the Vaillons: open and inviting already, and of all the grands crus, should begin to drink the earliest, though its drinking window should not be underestimated. Chalky lift and a white peach scent make for an enticing wine.

This vineyard borders Pommard, and has produced a wine with a fruity, vibrant pallet of cranberry and redcurrant flavours in 2019. In cooler years it can be a little austere, but in 2019, it is a winner, with such plush and charming fruit.

This was the first parcel Louis and Clément picked, and they have captured the crunchy freshness of the vintage, whilst also drawing out a supple, silky red fruit core through destemming and gentle extraction. This is pretty, violet-scented and very finely balanced, with abundant, fine-grained tannins. A charming Volnay.

10% whole bunch works really well here, and the Gamay has the structure and sophistication of the Boillots’ Côte d’Or Pinots, but with the juicy, pretty, peppery texture of Beaujolais. Of the four wines they make in the Beaujolais this is the most elegant, and always our favourite.

Les Pruliers is a substantial Nuits vineyard, just south of the town, producing wines of structure and energy. Just four barrels of this were made in 2019. It has chalky little tannins and a great balance of red fruit - cranberries, raspberries, and a little tobacco spice.

This vineyard straddles the village boundary between Puligny and Chassagne and is well regarded as a top flight village parcel, with the likes of Coche-Dury also producing a single vineyard cuvée from this site. Its position just beneath Bâtard-Montrachet goes a long way in explaining its superior quality. It is so detailed and fine - like filigree lace, but with a wonderful and rewarding richness underneath. 70 year old vines and outstanding terroir make for an extra-special village wine that delivers a density and sophistication of flavour far beyond its communal status.

This is a blend of three parcels: one in Chassagne, one in Puligny, and one in St-Aubin, so it’s a pretty brilliant introduction to this domaine who excels at all three. It has a notably supple, silky texture, with a bright, clean, crisp balance. This was one of the stand-out Bourgognes Blancs of the vintage, and worth every penny.

This outstanding premier cru in St-Aubin sits on top of the hill that peaks between Chassagne and St-Aubin, just behind Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. The wine is a blend of five parcels within En Remilly, and expresses the vineyard’s natural tendency to floral, peachy fruit, with mineral tension underneath. This has so much zing and pop in 2019. In warm years it can tend towards the exotic, but here it is zingy and citrus, and incredibly well balanced.

The cuvée is named after Damien and Caroline’s grandmother, Lucie, whose nickname was ‘Luce’. Its personalised moniker hints at how fond the family are of this wine, which is a blend of three parcels in the village. It has a deliciously fleshy concentration, peaches and nectarines. Some pithy texture beneath holds it all together. A great showing.

These vines are over 80 years old and the wine they have produced in 2019 is so wonderfully concentrated and persistent. There is an intense pineapple character - sweetness but also so much freshness, with a pithy grapefruit note on the palate. A bit of a bargain.

Because yields were so small in 2019, this is a one-off cuvée. It is a blend of Clos Reyssier and the climat Les Scellés, usually bottled separately. It might be the only time we’ll see this blend, and you shouldn’t miss it. It has the zingy freshness of juicy tangerine juice, with lightly but well-controlled tropical notes woven throughout. Totally delicious.

This is one of the gems on our list: it may be village on paper, but this exceptionally well-placed parcel - an east-facing limestone vineyard that extends just beyond the band of premiers crus - delivers well beyond its status in the glass. It has a more amplified weight than the Bourgogne with a plump citrus fruit and nectarine drive.

You can really feel the character of the poor stony soil found in Puligny here: the wine stands in contrast to Jean-Baptiste’s Meursault premiers crus in its floral delicacy and racy edge. This superb 2019 should also open up a little earlier than the Meursaults, offering its enticing blossom character on the nose and lacy fine acidity with steely acidity on the palate. No need to wait too long here, this will sing from early on: its tight coil and fine grain are part of its charm. So fine and so promising.

This is one of Meursault’s finest vineyards, shared amongst some of its greatest growers. In the hands of Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau, the palate is bursting with energy. There is such density and persistence on the palate, whilst the nose remains relatively tightly coiled, with much more to give as it unfolds with time. This should make a wonderful mature white Burgundy, if you have the patience.

Blagny sits high up, above the heart of the Meursault commune. This altitude brings a focused freshness to the wines. This 2019 has a wonderfully nutty intensity, with a chalky, white blossom character, and long, citrus finish.

The fruit for this blend comes from three sites in Meursault (making up 60%), with the remainder from a single plot in Puligny. It is lemony, full of energy, and completely delicious; you’d be hard pressed to find a more crowd-pleasing Bourgogne Blanc, and even harder pressed to find one with these credentials coming in at the same price. It’s well structured enough to offer interest and complexity over the next four to five years, too.

This parcel sits just under one of Nuits-St-Georges’ most celebrated premiers crus, Les Vaucrains. It is such a pretty, defined wine, with an energetic fruit persistence, and firm but fairly fine tannins, and lifting freshness.

This vineyard is a monopole of the estate which has been in the hands of the family since 1860. Where the Brûlées was firm and structured, this is ethereal and lithe. There is such harmony in its length, with that silky red Vosne fruit echoing through the length of the finish. Opulent yet refined.

This premier cru neighbours Richebourg, and has a lot of limestone on the soil. This gives the wine great definition and drive on the palate. It has fairly broad shoulders for a Vosne, but with the body amply filled out with spiced fruit and smooth tannins, everything is in great balance.

If you are looking for good value in Vosne-Romanée, you’re on the right track here. It comes from three well-placed parcels, including Aux Réas which extends on from the premier cru, along with La Colombière, and Au Dessus de la Rivière. It is dark and deep, with luscious black cherries on the palate and a smooth, creamy texture. This is a brilliant example of Burgundy’s most highly-prized village.

This large 7 hectare vineyard in the hills above Nuits-St-Georges has wonderful limestone soils, quite similar to those found on the hill of Corton, though with a much fresher climate, of course. It is wild and fresh, with a hedgerow fruit aroma and a long, and ripe finish. This has done particularly well in 2019.

This is a blend of their lower-lying parcels of village Volnay plus some 1er Cru Brouillards. Lafarge’s Volnay is always so elegant and charming, with a perfumed nose, and an expressive silky frame.

Produced in every vintage since the foundation of the domaine, this 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, produced from co-planted vines, is one of Burgundy’s bargains. The vines are now aged between 98 and 101 years. Lovely dark berry fruit on the nose, with a pure and delicious length.

This comes from their best parcels around the village - Grands Champs, Pluchots, Gigottes, Echards. It has a complexity and depth that leans towards premier cru. There is slightly more concentration and structure than in the straight village, though it retains that floral prettiness.

There was no Vendanges Sélectionnées made this year, given how small the yields were. So all the domaine's Meursault fruit was blended into this cuvée. It comes from two parcels: one under Santenots du Milieu, the other under Santenots du Dessus. Spicy, fresh and fleshy in 2019.

This comes from 84 year old vines of the ‘raisins dorés’ clone of Aligoté,which produces lower yields of highly concentrated fruit, with complex flavours developed in the small golden-skinned berries. The 2019 has the richness of juicy stone fruit with some citrus fruit freshness driving through.

This parcel in Les Mitans, in the centre of the village, has been owned by the Lafarge family since 2005. It has an ideal mid-slope position, and produces a floral wine with great tension: quintessential Volnay.

These vines were planted in 1921, and as they approach their centenary they are still going strong, producing wines of haunting beauty and finesse.

This vineyard has been owned by the Lafarge family since the domaine was founded, and is arguably their most famous wine. Always serious and intense, with huge ageing potential. The 2019 is so seduction and enticing, with layer upon layer of tannin and savoury depth.

This is a monopole vineyard belonging to the Lafarge family of just 0.57 hectares. They have bottled it separately since 1985, and it has since become their most sought-after release. The grapes are destemmed by hand, such is the reverence in which the family hold this site: in their eyes, a grand cru. The 2019 will have a note about Michel on the label, celebrating his life.

This is a brilliant ruby red, with an exuberantly crunchy red fruit-scented nose. The structure is cool and poised with bright acidity and good density of saline fruit. Lovely purity and drive.

These vines were planted in 1965 and 1972. Aux Murgers is one of the warmer, and therefore earlier ripening sites in Nuits, and this 2019 is generous, luscious, whilst still vibrant, thanks to good picking decisions and sensitive vinification.

This parcel sits in the mid-slope of the hill of Corton, and is one of its finest vineyards, noted for its elegance and finesse. This has intense floral and spicy notes as the new oak wraps around the wonderful fruit. Wonderfully complex and balanced.

Aux Boudots is a magnificent vineyard that borders Aux Malconsorts in Vosne. It produces some of the most luxurious and decadent wines of Nuits, with much of its neighbours character intertwined with its structred and muscular frame.

This is a blend of two parcels, one planted in the 1970s and 1980s, the other in the 1950s. It is raised in 50% new oak, which gives drama and texture to the sumptuous Vosne fruit.

This is sourced from two parcel, one with very old vnes that yields small, concentrated berries, and wonderfully balanced acidity and fruit, with smooth tannins.

This vineyard is in the hills above Vosne, and enjoys a cooler microclimate thanks to its 437m elevation. There is a tiny bit of Pinot Blanc grown amongst Chardonnay here, and this wine has a lovely apricot perfume, and fresh citrus zip on the palate. Beautifully textured.

One third of the Méo vines in this parcel were planted in 1920, and their vines reach metres deep into the soils, producing formidably concentrated fruit. The rest of the blend is made up of fruit from vines planted in the 1960s. The overall effect is of great maturity and finesse. 2019 is a particularly stong year for Clos de Vougeot, and it is at its most fabulous in the hands of Jean-Nicolas Méo.

This is a dark, wild, heady glass. It has the deep fruit and toothsome tannins of Fixin, which lies just north of Gevrey-Chambertin, but also that typical Méo silkiness. There is a minty character to the red fruit, and a beautifully held savoury finish.

This vineyard lies just below La Tâche towards the centre of the village. Its 2019 is so sumptuous and satin-like, with luxurious depth of silky fruit. You get lost in it with the first sip. Vosne at its best.

This vineyard needs little introduction: it can lay claim as one of the finest in the village. The wine is tight and mineral, but it has the structure and depth to unfurl in magnificent splendour with a few years in bottle.

Just three barrels of this were made in 2019. It is located in the southern part of the village, alongside other such exalted sites as La Grande Montagne and La Romanée. The wine is so dense and powerful, with a weighted, almost oily texture. Thierry has mastered the use of oak here, with no new oak dominating the spicy, floral character of the wine.

This is the Pillots’ largest premier cru, and lies just up the road from their cellar. It is the emblematic cuvée of the domaine. It has a cool stone fruit nose, with a round, salty palate. The finish is wonderfully long and sustained, with a greengage character and energetic freshness.

This well-positioned village parcel, just below Champs-Gains, certainly merits being singled out. The soil has lots of little limestone pebbles, and this wine is so zippy and limey, with a wonderful citrus verve. Lovely drive, and an impressively complex finish.

Les Pitangerets straddles Chassagne-Montrachet and St-Aubin, sitting just above Les Chenevottes. In 2019 only four barrels were made. The nose has a wonderful blossom and salty scent; the palate is so pure and piercing with a rich freshness and a deliciously bitter twist on the finish.

⅓ comes from the Petits Maupertuis, next to Grands Echezeaux, and the rest from near Grivot. Good length and volume. Plenty of richness and power. This is quite intense, but has a layer of elegance, which keeps it fresh and focussed.

This is a blend of three vineyards, with 20% Clos du Roi, 20% Perrières, and the rest Paulands. This is wild and herbal, with definition of fruit and very Côte de Beaune tannins. Dark and intense, there’s great depth here.

The Monts-Luisants is the only Premier Cru Bourgogne Aligoté in Burgundy, and this is a stunning expression in 2018. There’s apple fruit and plenty of spice, and then a really complex and focussed finish.

This comes from two parcels, with equal parts of Languettes and Le Charlemagne. This has beautiful fruit, with greengages and plenty of mineral notes. Quite peachy on the finish, and very saline, this is a brilliant Corton-Charlemagne.

From the vineyard that sits between Clos de la Roche and the Aligoté of Monts Luisants, this has real power and plenty of mineral grip. Spicy, and finely balanced, this is very long and focussed.

This comes from the part of the vineyard that’s called Mazoyères, and could be labelled as such. Nice cassis and dark fruit. Also a red berry lift and wild flower complexity. Nicely fine and supple tannins and a baked earth character. Very complex.

Elegant and finessed, stony and mineral, this is an outstanding Grand Cru. There’s elegance here, and a warm, baked earth character. There’s real density, but also a freshness and poise. Lovely.

This comes from vines at the top of Les Teurons, in the vineyard’s sweet spot between Aux Cras and Les Grèves. As usual, this cuvée is just lovely in its youth. The red stony soil and sunny exposition here make a silky, sweet-scented style of wine, with gorgeously light and supple tannins.

Rossignol-Trapet owns a very fine two parcels of this formidable grand cru. The vines were mostly planted in the 1950s, with a small section of young vines planted in 2000, and another small section planted way back in 1919. It has magnificent structure, with a voluminous length. It remains subtle and restrained on the nose, but builds in power, and has a persistent finish of dark fruits and mineral spice.

This is the only parcel the domaine bottles separately from the other Gevrey village parcels. That is thanks to its quite incredible situation, and the consistency of quality it delivers every year. It is sandwiched just between grands crus Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. It’s almost unbelievable it’s only a village lieu dit. The Rossignol-Trapet vines lie right alongside the Joseph Roty Charmes Vieilles Vignes parcel, but the soil is more like Griotte-Chambertin just to the north. It has such charming sweet strawberry and cherry fruit on the nose, and lovely savoury tannins that give it an excellent but understated body. Only seven barrels of this were made, so it will be scarce.

This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: multiple parcels scattered around the village, they vinify them in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the grands crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 45 and 85 years, and the concentration and complexity this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It has a beautifully grippy tension in 2019.

The clay soils of this well-placed parcel produce a wine of depth and roundness. It has an abundance of small, granular tannins that give a subtle spiciness underneath the dark fruit. It’s a clear step up in complexity, and should age with elegance.

This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: multiple parcels scattered around the village, they vinify them in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the grands crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 45 and 85 years, and the concentration and complexity this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It has a beautifully grippy tension in 2019.

Cool air comes down the valley between Morey-St-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, meaning Latricières is a little slower to mature than the other Gevrey grands crus. It has a soft, sweet red berry character, with a cool mineral freshness underneath, and a little lift of wild herbs.

This was the first parcel they converted to biodynamics in 1997, so this lovely single parcel of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin has now benefitted from over two decades of low-intervention farming. It is also planted with a north/south orientation, and in the fierce heat of 2019 has retained all the crunchy, juicy freshness you would hope to find. Impeccable Bourgogne.

This comes from three parcels within the premier cru, and has been raised 80% in tank, and 20% in oak. It is one of the most open and expressive of the premiers crus. Concentrated and saline, it is intense and pure, with nicely weighted green fruit in its backbone.

This comes from a blend of three parcels, which Samuel says each contributes complexity, richness, and minerality. That’s a pretty good combination for a Chablis. It is flinty, clean-cut, direct, and persistent, and invariably one of our best-sellers.

Samuel’s Montée de Tonnerre is a blend of two parcels, one of which lies alongside that of Raveneau’s. Light peachy scent with a precise and sizzling length of taut chalky acidity. The creaminess of the year’s fruit comes through nicely on the finish.

A focused, firm and structured Vaudésir. Saline and crisp on the nose, there is something intriguingly spicy on the palate - pickled ginger? This is a lovely grand cru from Samuel, with weight and depth. It packs a lot of punch.

This comes from a blend of three parcels, which Samuel says each contributes complexity, richness, and minerality. That’s a pretty good combination for a Chablis. It is flinty, clean-cut, direct, and persistent, and invariably one of our best-sellers.

Séchet is a lieu dit within the Vaillons premier cru, which is prized for its floral, mineral, and delicate power. These old vines, aged between 60 and 80 years, produce one of Samuel’s most complete wines. It is freshly tight on the nose, all lemon and seaspray. This, combined with the palate’s depth, perfectly demonstrates this winemaker’s pursuit of tension and energy in his wines.

This fruit comes from a parcel that Samuel owns just above Grand Cru Les Clos, where the soil shifts to a mixture of Portlandian and Kimmeridgian limestone. When the parcel was owned by Billaud Simon, it had a reputation as one of the best sites for Petit Chablis, and this has followed Samuel in his own venture. Limey, salty, and tight, with a neat line of acidity.

Bursting with citrus and floral notes: freshly cut spring flowers and slices of lemon. A full, but precise and tense palate follows. Luscious without being heavy-weight, this strikes a fine balance. It should drink well from early on.

The most prized vineyard in Chablis, and with good reason. It feels tightly coiled in its youth, with a wisp of smoky iodine lingering over briny citrus fruit. This will need a few years to level out and fully express the power contained within its mineral, tingling shell.

Samuel’s Montée de Tonnerre is a blend of two parcels, one of which lies alongside that of Raveneau’s. Light peachy scent with a precise and sizzling length of taut chalky acidity. The creaminess of the year’s fruit comes through nicely on the finish.

Stéphane’s parcel of 65 year old vines lie right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. There is a delicate salinity beneath the fruit and an understated density here. This is a serious wine displaying graceful purity and a gorgeous length. An absolute triumph in 2019.

This premier cru is one of Chambolle’s finest, and right on the border with Morey, just beneath Bonnes Mares. A quarter of the vines are extremely old, having been planted in 1902, with the rest between 1950 and 1980. It has a brilliant leafy edge to the red fruit, with a fluid, harmonious length. So poised and long.

This is one of the best terroirs among Morey’s premiers crus, just below Clos de la Roche. It has made a deliciously opulent wine in 2019, with a rich voluminous body that has a gorgeous fresh and lifting line of acidity and such well integrated tannins that it simply glides across the palate. Wonderful. Best value premier cru red to be found?

This is a blend of two parcels, Les Congées and Clos Solon, with an average vine age over 55 years. It has some satisfyingly big shoulders, padded with dark fruit and intense, silky tannins. An absolutely brilliant wine for the price.

This vineyard has the unusual honour of spanning grand cru (Clos de la Roche), premier cru, and village. Stéphane’s parcel lies right in the middle of the lieu dit, and thus the premier cru sector. The wine has a satisfying richness about it, and with that pure thread of acidity and stony minerality, it is a well-proportioned premier cru that carries its oak with style.

Delicate and perfumed on the nose. When the quality of fruit is this good, it becomes irrelevant its classification is merely Bourgogne.

Another new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2019. It feels slightly more structured than the Aux Chaumes at this early stage, with a saline drive.

40% Gamay with the rest Pinot Noir, from a 38 year old vineyard. Great density, with crunchy berries, grip, and long, fine finish.

This premier cru has an enviable exposure, similar to Clos St Jacques in Gevrey. These 65 year old vines were planted by Sébastien’s great grandfather when he was a tenant farmer. Wonderfully cool but ripe, intense fruit.

A recent addition to the Cathiard portfolio from Burgundy's 'other' white grape. Fresh, bright, and invitingly balanced.

This is only ever made in tiny volumes, as is the case in 2019. The power and complexity of the fruit matched with the new oak are transporting. No wonder it is so highly prized.

Suchots of one of the largest and most famous premiers crus in Vosne-Romanée, just below Les Beaux-Monts and Aux Brûlées, with Echezeaux to its north, and Romanée-Saint-Vivant to its south. It makes a powerful, structured, and spicy wine, with fresh elegance beneath.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, the one on which its considerable reputation has been built. Often the most closed in youth, it has the power and structure to evolve magnificently with time. Phenomenally complex and compelling.

From five parcels in four different sites, this Vosne is spicy, fragrant, and incredibly long. Beautiful energy on the finish.

This well-placed village parcel sits right in the middle of the appellation beneath premier cru Les Charmes. It produces a charming and delicately inviting wine with floral notes, and a red berry core.

One of three new additions to the Cathiard cellar in 2019, along with two Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. This comes from a single parcel, Champ Franc. It has a lovely dark fruit nose and some supple tannins.

Aux Murgers is close to the border with Vosne, and has some of that appellation’s signature elegance. Half the vines are 70 years old, the other half 50+. It produces one of the most sumptuous and satin-like expressions of Nuits-St-Georges.

The Reignots vineyard sits on the steep incline of the hill as it rises up just above La Romanée. It was only replanted a few decades ago, and the young vines produce a fragrant and elegant style of Vosne.

Half of En Orveaux is included within Echezeaux grand cru. This comes from the upper half of the lieu dit as the slope rises up, and the views from here are spectacular. The wine is intense with a beautifully controlled power harnessed from the 70 year old vines.

A new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2019. The vineyards Sébastien has taken on he says are in excellent condition, and now farmed along organic lines. This is a blend of several parcels with wines aged between 10 and 70 years. It shows spicy fresh fruit, with some lovely crunch and drive.

This remote east-facing vineyard sits at an elevation of 400m. Mark explains that on a crisp summer morning you can see all the way to Mont Blanc from here. Its position means, although bathed in morning sun, it does not have much hot afternoon sun. The fruit ripens slowly here, and it is often the last parcel of the domaine to be picked. It is suave, refined, and effortlessly elegant.

This is a very special village lieu dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. You can really appreciate the calibre of this vineyard in the delicious profile of this 2019, introduced by the sumptuous but cool red fruit fragrance, and followed by a crystalline palate with perfectly expressed velvet tannins. All the fruit was destemmed for this cuvée, and the gentle supporting note of new oak in the background is on song.

This parcel actually used to be classified as a village parcel, and winemaker Mark seems particularly fond of it: there’s definitely a suggestion of that Gevrey spice and structure beneath the refined and elegant Bourgogne fruit. One of the best Bourgogne Rouges you’ll find.

This is pale ruby and has a deliciously cool crystalline nose of blue and red fruit. It’s a restrained and understated Pinot. The palate is peppered with some grippy tannins which support the earthy fruit well. A nice minty lift on the finish gives it a mineral tang.

This has become the signature wine of the domaine and is unquestionably the jewel in the crown of a very strong set of 2019s. It is drawn from three parcels, one of which was planted over 75 years ago. The fruit from these very old vines goes in as whole bunch, whilst the rest is destemmed. This wine is so detailed and restrained, with a supple, fresh texture. Wild berries and light toasty spice. Completely delicious.

This wine bursts with cranberries and sweet spice, with the lift of freshly cracked pink peppercorns. The palate has a nice texture with some firm acidity weaving through soft red fruit. The tannins are fairly soft and gentle but provide just enough grip to give the wine a long, detailed finish.

A wonderfully ethereal, elegant style of Gevrey, sourced from eight parcels across the southern section of the appellation. The density of tannins is silky and refined. It feels light-footed and flowing, with a tantalisingly fresh and balanced length. A small, well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. Skilfully done.

This grand cru needs little introduction. It is, in the eyes of many, the greatest site in Burgundy, where Pinot Noir reaches its apogee.The Tawse Musigny is always a fine-boned wine, and made in an elegant style that means it approaches its drinking window ahead of some neighbours’, but with the signature Musigny svelte-like tannins on full display. Destemmed by hand. Volumes in 2019 are small, and demand will far outstrip supply.

This comes from two plots: Treux & Rouges du Bas. The tiny volume is raised in 100% new oak, and the wine has a luxurious, toasty feel. There is so much body and structure within, which carries the oak brilliantly. It has an intense and lifted nose with dramatic concentration. The palate is bursting with crushed raspberries; there is real power and umph here. Opulent and textured.

Only produced in tiny quantities. This cru did extremely well in 2019, and has produced powerful wines that should last for decades. 50% whole bunch and 50% new oak. Great depth and mineral precision.

This comes from vines planted in the original Clos St-Denis, in the heart of the grand cru. 25% whole bunch is played off against the new oak with commanding skill. A full and energetic wine with plenty of depth.

This sits just below Clos St Denis, in the heart of the village. It offers up a deep and rich nose, laden with wild hedgerow fruit. It is a powerful wine from one of the top performing villages in 2019. Only 450 bottles made.

This is a success story in 2019: prickly cool red fruit on the nose gives the wine a luminous character. The quality of the fine but grainy tannins gives excellent bite to the cherry stone palate. Sappy, savoury freshness at its best.

Most of the fruit comes from the Côte de Nuits, with the majority from around Nuits itself. It is a brilliant crimson colour, transparent and bright. The nose has a pretty red fruit and floral aroma, with hints of blueberries and cinnamon spice. The body is particularly supple with soft, sleek tannins. This should drink well from early on. Juicy and easy to drink.

This was exceptionally pretty and delicate, with charming red fruit on the nose and meltingly fine tannins on the palate. Good freshness too.

This comes from the Rognet and Hautes Mourottes sectors of the Corton hill. A spiced nose with wild rosemary on rose hips, and some savoury bloody orange mineralit on the palate. Plenty of drive and intensity.

40 parcels scattered across 46 hectares go into this blend, which is open, flinty, fruity, and charming. With yields down 30-50% across the various parcels, there won’t be much available this year.

This comes from the parcel at the bottom of the slope, by the river. Its soil always lends wines lots of saltiness and minerality, Didier says. In 2019 it has superb freshness, with a tight, green apple energy and tremendous length. Persistent and tingling, with some attractive bitterness just at the edge.

Vaillons is a warm, sunny premier cru, and Fèvre has 3.5 hectares plum in the middle of the slope. Their 55 year old vines produce concentration and ripeness in the wine. The 2019 has thrilling acidity to balance the ripe white fruit of the palate. They picked early here, and have captured the vibrant energy of the vintage.

Bright and zippy, this is the freshest and zingiest of the Fèvre grands crus. The amphitheatre-like shape of the vineyard is a sun trap, and as a result this is always one of the first picked sites. In 2019 it has richness and a full, aromatically expressive minerality, with a green apple edge on the palate. They picked at just the right moment.

Three parcels are blended here, creating a complex and crystalline wine. Some of the vines were planted in 1936, and these add beautiful freshness along with density of fruit. It is restrained, taut, sea-salty fresh, and long. It is a highlight amongst a stellar set of wines. This is every inch a premier cru, if not even a little grand cru.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site. They are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. This is, simply put, a fully realised expression of everything that you could hope for from William Fèvre and the greatest site in Chablis.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site. They are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. This is, simply put, a fully realised expression of everything that you could hope for from William Fèvre and the greatest site in Chablis.

William’s father planted some of these vines in 1948. Since then, the domaine has expanded its holdings, and is now the largest owner of Chablis’ greatest site. They are at the top of the hill, in a cool site, where the best soils are found. This is, simply put, a fully realised expression of everything that you could hope for from William Fèvre and the greatest site in Chablis.

This has a gorgeous nose of sweet, floral fruit. It seems so harmonious, but is actually a blend of two parcels, one adding freshness and tension, the other depth and richness. They are matched so seamlessly that the overall effect is of a mellifluous and complete wine. Elegant, pure, deep, rich, fresh, and arrestingly beautiful.

This has a gorgeous nose of sweet, floral fruit. It seems so harmonious, but is actually a blend of two parcels, one adding freshness and tension, the other depth and richness. They are matched so seamlessly that the overall effect is of a mellifluous and complete wine. Elegant, pure, deep, rich, fresh, and arrestingly beautiful.

William Fèvre owns half of this grand cru, so it’s no wonder theirs is the best example you will find. The deeper clay soils make a wonderfully early drinking style, with all the power and finesse you would expect from a grand cru. Ripe, lush, approachable, and very temptingly priced for a wine of this level.

Vaulorent is technically part of Fourchaume, the largest premier cru in Chablis. It is also usually the ripest, but the site is highly heterogeneous, and Vaulorent is undoubtedly the best parcel within, and the only one on the same hill as the grand cru. It has very chalky soil and produces a wine of power and silky tension. The 2019 is so stylish, it seems weightless, yet its long finish shows such vibrant concentration. Outstanding.

These 60 year old vines in Mont de Milieu are prone to millerandages, and so always produce small yields, which is particularly the case in 2019. There is astounding power and energy here, with plump fruit and zinging freshness, with a fine, salty finish. Wonderful.

Nicolas sees these vineyards, around Corgoloin just south of Nuits St Georges, as the future of his domaine. Land prices here aren’t impossibly high, yet the quality of terroir is terrific. It means he can make this enormously characterful and interesting wine for an outstanding price. This is a great success in 2019, with juicy, inky dark fruits, creamy tannins, and satisfyingly firm freshness. It shall no doubt continue to be one of the most popular wines on our list.

Nicolas has put his reputation on the line here. He says this is “the best bourgogne I’ve ever made”. It is so lifted and juicy, with masses of fruit energy, and the palate show good density and length. You get an awful lot of wine here for the price. It is perfect for everyday drinking. Sadly 2019 is the final vintage of this cuvée, so snap it up whilst you can.

These vines are now well over 60 years old, and the wine has such a distinctive freshness and flow. It is very classically Pinot, with a light frame and fresh balance of sweet red fruits. A very pure, berry-driven style.

Amongst some stiff competition, this is regarded as one of the finest premiers crus in Vosne. It’s up-hill position gives it lots of light, and exposure to cooling breezes. Nicolas has been buying the fruit from this particular parcel since 1997: it is his oldest contract, and represents a special place in his offering. Nicely spiced, and with a good body of dark, ripe fruits, and a floral note on the finish. Glossy tannins remind you this couldn’t really be anything other than top drawer Vosne.

Nicolas has the oldest vines in these greatly revered premiers cru. They were planted in 1904. The wine has this arresting sappy freshness with sweet tones of berry fruit. This concentration from such old vines married with the outstanding quality of the site culminates in a fragrant intensity and stunningly long finish.

These vines were planted in 1927, and lie just under Echézeaux and next to Clos de Vougeot and a stone’s throw from Suchots, which is pretty unbelievable positioning for a village parcel.This is, as always, intense and structured, with beautiful, dark energy, and muscular but svelte tannins.

Caillerets is an excellent Volnay cru, sitting just beneath the lauded Clos des Chênes. It feels, even at this early stage, wonderfully complete and composed. Smooth and balanced. Great value, too.

Ah Richebourg… where to start with you. The potency within is astonishing. It has this incredible combination of herbal red fruit and spicy sucrosity. Made in such limited quantities, this was a great privilege to taste.

This was so powerful, toasty, and deep. Absolutely spectacular in its quality of fruit, powerful structure, and nuanced length. Wait a while for this to reach its peak.

This is an opulent, aromatically enticing example from one of the smaller, lesser-seen, but nevertheless highly-prized grands crus. So fruity and spicy, this is an absolute triumph. Impressively exuberant yet refined.

This was truly brilliant. Notes of spice and violets, with dark cherries and pomegranate molasses. Surprisingly delicate on the palate, it yet has a might power underneath.

A village Pommard might be in danger of being overlooked, when in amongst such a marathon tasting, as one does with Nicolas. But this really held its own. It’s at the top of the Pommard valley, and is kept cool by the breeze than is drawn down from the Hautes-Côtes: a distinct advantage in a hot year. It is so floral, fragrant, and graceful, and one of the prettiest Pommards you could find.

This Corton-Charlemagne is all about fruit: intense and luscious, with a thrilling freshness. The texture is bold and silky: it is everything you’d hope from this outstanding grand cru. The weight is powerful, but never heavy; it holds its frame well, and retains a brilliant energy.

Pézerolles produces some of the prettiest wines in Pommard. The limestone vineyard lies on the Beaune side of the village, just above Les Epeneaux. It has supple dark fruits, with some beautiful chalky freshness from the fine-grained tannins.

This was another important purchase that the domaine made in 2005, which saw them take over 1.37 hectares of prime Vosne-Romanée premier cru. The deal saw Dujac take another slice of the cru - the parcel just next to de Montille. It has such amazing lift and expression. The 100% whole bunch technique is fully justified here and the wine has such delicious tannins. Highly in demand, and for very good reason.

This is one of the finest sites in Beaune, and de Montille’s wine is exemplary. The majority comes from very old vines, and the nose of this 2019 is so fragrant and perfumed, with a lightly spiced note. A well-judged one-third whole bunch gives the body agility and finesse. This is a terrific wine, savoury, mineral, bright and fresh, with the structure for graceful ageing.

Le Cailleret is high up on the hill, cornering Le Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet, just above Les Pucelles. In terms of location, you can’t do much better. The soil is stony and poor up here, and de Montille’s 70 year old vines produce an intense, steely style. Tight, mineral, and pretty fabulous. This stands out amongst a strong set of whites.

De Montille bought this lovely parcel of grand cru in 2005 from a fastidious vigneron who had looked after the vines with impeccable attention. They have continued his good work with these 80 year old vines. The wine is brimming with sweet ripe fruit and the palate is defined by its silky freshness. Clos du Roi has a reputation as the most elegant of the Corton grands crus, and this is abundantly clear in 2019.

Les Rugiens-Bas has long been a candidate for elevation to Grand Cru status in Pommard. There is something dark and brooding, powerful and concentrated on the nose, followed by an amazing crunchy freshness on the palate. It has brilliant energy and persistence, and substantial tannins to carry this through the cellar for many years to come.

This parcel lies at the bottom of the hill, beneath Rugiens. On this side - the Volnay side - of the village, the soils are ferrous, with the iron oxide colouring them red. Low yields combined with 50% whole bunch fermentation means this vigorous soil is tamed, and the wine expresses big, dark fruits kept fresh with crunchy tannins. A nice flicker of blood orange running through the dark fruit gives nuance and complexity.

Amongst a strong list of contenders, this can lay claim as de Montille’s most well-known and celebrated cuvée, and over the years has gained a huge following. In 2019, it is at once powerful and delicate, so nuanced and complex, with notes of violets and dark berries. The hillside site has gravelly soil over limestone. Winemaker Brian Sieve likes to use a full whole bunch fermentation here, but warns it takes careful management. In 2019 he has got it just right: the wine is focused and supple, with serious poise.

This comes from a blend of some of the village’s best parcels, including Les Narvaux, Casse Têtes, and Petits Charrons. It has a wonderful balance between crunchy green fruit with fennel freshness, and a creamy backbone

This comes from a blend of some of the village’s best parcels, including Les Narvaux, Casse Têtes, and Petits Charrons. It has a wonderful balance between crunchy green fruit with fennel freshness, and a creamy backbone

This cuvée is a Lay & Wheeler exclusive in the UK. It’s a clever purchase of négociant grapes that the domaine makes from the Côte Chalonnaise. All the vinification is done by the domaine’s team at their cellars in Meursault. White peach, vivid acidity, and a fine, creamy length.

This Corton-Charlemagne is all about fruit: intense and luscious, with a thrilling freshness. The texture is bold and silky: it is everything you’d hope from this outstanding grand cru. The weight is powerful, but never heavy; it holds its frame well, and retains a brilliant energy.

This premier cru is all too often overlooked, overshadowed by the classic white villages of the southern Côte de Beaune. But to miss out on this Beaune 1er Cru would be a mistake. It sits high up on the hill, where the soils are poor and high in limestone. The vines struggle and strive, and the wines are full of life. The 2019 is perfumed with sweet nectarine fruit, and the palate has a wonderful grapefruit bitterness. Delicious, and good value, too.

A delicate, floral, lemon-fresh and easy-drinking style of Bourgogne Blanc, from vineyards around Puligny-Montrachet.

A delicate, floral, lemon-fresh and easy-drinking style of Bourgogne Blanc, from vineyards around Puligny-Montrachet.

Poruzots is a premier cru in the heart of the Meursault hillside, and the de Montille vines lie in the upper half, generally thought to be the finest part of the cru. It has a deliciously fragrant nose of ripe Amalfi lemon and a superbly sustained finish.

Poruzots is a premier cru in the heart of the Meursault hillside, and the de Montille vines lie in the upper half, generally thought to be the finest part of the cru. It has a deliciously fragrant nose of ripe Amalfi lemon and a superbly sustained finish.

Le Cailleret is high up on the hill, cornering Le Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet, just above Les Pucelles. In terms of location, you can’t do much better. The soil is stony and poor up here, and de Montille’s 70 year old vines produce an intense, steely style. Tight, mineral, and pretty fabulous. This stands out amongst a strong set of whites.

Le Cailleret is high up on the hill, cornering Le Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet, just above Les Pucelles. In terms of location, you can’t do much better. The soil is stony and poor up here, and de Montille’s 70 year old vines produce an intense, steely style. Tight, mineral, and pretty fabulous. This stands out amongst a strong set of whites.

When he purchased his Malconsorts parcel in 2005, Etienne decided to vinify this section, which forms a small enclave within the grand cru La Tâche, separately. The cuvée is named after his mother. It is so toasty and refined, voluptuous and deep. It is a masterclass in controlled power and floral finesse.

When he purchased his Malconsorts parcel in 2005, Etienne decided to vinify this section, which forms a small enclave within the grand cru La Tâche, separately. The cuvée is named after his mother. It is so toasty and refined, voluptuous and deep. It is a masterclass in controlled power and floral finesse.

When he purchased his Malconsorts parcel in 2005, Etienne decided to vinify this section, which forms a small enclave within the grand cru La Tâche, separately. The cuvée is named after his mother. It is so toasty and refined, voluptuous and deep. It is a masterclass in controlled power and floral finesse.

De Montille bought this lovely parcel of grand cru in 2005 from a fastidious vigneron who had looked after the vines with impeccable attention. They have continued his good work with these 80 year old vines. The wine is brimming with sweet ripe fruit and the palate is defined by its silky freshness. Clos du Roi has a reputation as the most elegant of the Corton grands crus, and this is abundantly clear in 2019.

De Montille bought this lovely parcel of grand cru in 2005 from a fastidious vigneron who had looked after the vines with impeccable attention. They have continued his good work with these 80 year old vines. The wine is brimming with sweet ripe fruit and the palate is defined by its silky freshness. Clos du Roi has a reputation as the most elegant of the Corton grands crus, and this is abundantly clear in 2019.

This was another important purchase that the domaine made in 2005, which saw them take over 1.37 hectares of prime Vosne-Romanée premier cru. The deal saw Dujac take another slice of the cru - the parcel just next to de Montille. It has such amazing lift and expression. The 100% whole bunch technique is fully justified here and the wine has such delicious tannins. Highly in demand, and for very good reason.

De Montille holds just 0.29 hectares of this grand cru, and their vines are nestled right in the middle of this large clos. This wine is savoury and muscular, with structural tannins and brawny power. One of the many hugely successful Clos de Vougeots in 2019.

De Montille holds just 0.29 hectares of this grand cru, and their vines are nestled right in the middle of this large clos. This wine is savoury and muscular, with structural tannins and brawny power. One of the many hugely successful Clos de Vougeots in 2019.

De Montille holds just 0.29 hectares of this grand cru, and their vines are nestled right in the middle of this large clos. This wine is savoury and muscular, with structural tannins and brawny power. One of the many hugely successful Clos de Vougeots in 2019.

In this cuvée, you can really feel the influence of whole bunch fermentation: sweet strawberry fruit, blueberries, and silky tannins. This is full of flavour, without a marked tannic grip. This will be wonderful from early on, all juice and freshness.

In this cuvée, you can really feel the influence of whole bunch fermentation: sweet strawberry fruit, blueberries, and silky tannins. This is full of flavour, without a marked tannic grip. This will be wonderful from early on, all juice and freshness.

Mitans lies plum in the middle of the Volnay slope. Winemaker Brian Sieve decided on 100% whole bunch fruit for this small cuvée, whose yields are invariably tiny. The results are impressive: a pale colour with a delicate perfume of peonies and cherries. It is light, elegant, and rather beautiful. The tannins are fine-grained and slick.

Mitans lies plum in the middle of the Volnay slope. Winemaker Brian Sieve decided on 100% whole bunch fruit for this small cuvée, whose yields are invariably tiny. The results are impressive: a pale colour with a delicate perfume of peonies and cherries. It is light, elegant, and rather beautiful. The tannins are fine-grained and slick.

Mitans lies plum in the middle of the Volnay slope. Winemaker Brian Sieve decided on 100% whole bunch fruit for this small cuvée, whose yields are invariably tiny. The results are impressive: a pale colour with a delicate perfume of peonies and cherries. It is light, elegant, and rather beautiful. The tannins are fine-grained and slick.

This is a blend of parcels from the lower half of Volnay, and some old vines around Puligny-Montrachet. It has a juicy body with some peppery red fruit. Refreshing and balanced, it’s a lovely Bourgogne Rouge in 2019.

This is a blend of parcels from the lower half of Volnay, and some old vines around Puligny-Montrachet. It has a juicy body with some peppery red fruit. Refreshing and balanced, it’s a lovely Bourgogne Rouge in 2019.

Les Rugiens-Bas has long been a candidate for elevation to Grand Cru status in Pommard. There is something dark and brooding, powerful and concentrated on the nose, followed by an amazing crunchy freshness on the palate. It has brilliant energy and persistence, and substantial tannins to carry this through the cellar for many years to come.

Les Rugiens-Bas has long been a candidate for elevation to Grand Cru status in Pommard. There is something dark and brooding, powerful and concentrated on the nose, followed by an amazing crunchy freshness on the palate. It has brilliant energy and persistence, and substantial tannins to carry this through the cellar for many years to come.

Pézerolles produces some of the prettiest wines in Pommard. The limestone vineyard lies on the Beaune side of the village, just above Les Epeneaux. It has supple dark fruits, with some beautiful chalky freshness from the fine-grained tannins.

Pézerolles produces some of the prettiest wines in Pommard. The limestone vineyard lies on the Beaune side of the village, just above Les Epeneaux. It has supple dark fruits, with some beautiful chalky freshness from the fine-grained tannins.

Amongst a strong list of contenders, this can lay claim as de Montille’s most well-known and celebrated cuvée, and over the years has gained a huge following. In 2019, it is at once powerful and delicate, so nuanced and complex, with notes of violets and dark berries. The hillside site has gravelly soil over limestone. Winemaker Brian Sieve likes to use a full whole bunch fermentation here, but warns it takes careful management. In 2019 he has got it just right: the wine is focused and supple, with serious poise.

Amongst a strong list of contenders, this can lay claim as de Montille’s most well-known and celebrated cuvée, and over the years has gained a huge following. In 2019, it is at once powerful and delicate, so nuanced and complex, with notes of violets and dark berries. The hillside site has gravelly soil over limestone. Winemaker Brian Sieve likes to use a full whole bunch fermentation here, but warns it takes careful management. In 2019 he has got it just right: the wine is focused and supple, with serious poise.

This vineyard spans over 7 hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. It has a slightly darker, more deeply structured and brooding presence than the Mont des Oiseaux, with firmer, more savoury fruit. The palate swirls with mulberries and spiced blackberries, with a long, tense finish, and superbly sustained freshness.

This cuvée first appeared in 2015. It is made from the young(er) vines of the Clos de l’Arlot that had once been labelled ‘Petit Arlot’. It consistently proves its worth as a separate bottling with every new vintage: this is sweet and precise on the nose, with bursting redcurrants, violets, and graphite. The palate shows a wonderfully classical freshness, and some attractive, firm tannins that are expertly married to the red berry volume, making it ready for drinking in just a few years, I expect.

Like the Suchots, this was another canny purchase that the domaine made in the 1990s. This an electrifying 2019. Such luxurious tannin texture and depth of fruit, with fantastic freshness. Purity and density par excellence.

This cuvée uses the fruit from the younger vines in the Clos de l’Arlot premier cru, found at the southern side of the vineyard. It is brightly perfumed with honeysuckle and lemon meringue pie. The palate has a smooth, lemon curd texture, and some nice Conference pear character on the length.

This is one of few prestigious whites of the Côte de Nuits, and comes from one of the estate’s two monopole vineyards. Clos de l’Arlot is the steep, walled, amphitheatre vineyard just next to the cellars. There is fabulous structure here, with intense orchard fruit, and a weighty palate with plenty of dry extract and vibrant freshness. Serious stuff, and not to be underestimated.

The domaine purchased this plot of Vosne premier cru in the 1990s, and since then has been making this superb cuvée. The nose of the 2019 announces a magnificent 2019: red berries, gentle toasti spice, it is the quintessential Pinot Noir. The palate has a remarkable smoothness, with creamy, dense but agile tannins, and a sweet fruit core on the back palate make the finish seemingly endless. Outstanding.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

The pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Macon. It would give many far pricier wines from the Côte d'Or a run for their money. It has so much pop and zing in 2019. The later ripening terroir produces a succelence and ripeness twinned with delicious freshness. Excellent.

This always striked the fine balance between richness and finesse. Volumes in 2019 are severely reduced due to the spring frost, with one parcel of the two being entirely wiped out. But what remains has superb concentration, with smoky lime aromas and a firm, long, mineral finish.

This 2 hectare plot lies in the north of the region, and typically has the gentlest acidity of the domaine’s wines. Nevertheless, it is always one of the most balanced, as the mineral freshness comes through the perfectly ripe fleur d’orange scent and peachy fruit. Already very approachable, this will drink well from the off, but will age well too, with its slightly exotic, exuberant character.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

Many parcels are blended into this brilliant wine, all from the Viré side of the appellation. The old vines thrive in the village’s clay-rich top soil over limestone subsoil. It is impressively round and powerful and shows the domaine’s attention to detail paying dividends in its fine and complex structure. It is subtle and very finely done. A highlight in 2019.

The small yields that come from this stony site produce a wine with big intensity, and great density. Only available in limited volumes this year due to reduced yields, this floral, exotic wine is such a crowd-pleasing style.

Fruit, fleshy and seemingly light in the nose, but with the weight and drive derived from the high altitude parcels on the palate, making for a charming example of what the Mâcon can do in talented hands.

Fruit, fleshy and seemingly light in the nose, but with the weight and drive derived from the high altitude parcels on the palate, making for a charming example of what the Mâcon can do in talented hands.

In the south of the Mâconnaise is this tiny south-facing plot. Yields were severely reduced by the summer heatwave, and what a pity there is such a tiny volume available. Lucky you if you get some: it has a deliciously delicate bitterness on the palate, keeping it serious and savoury, whilst the pretty fruit gives it finesse and style. Dominique calls it his Genevrières of the Mâconnaise.

Monthélie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. The Lafon example is one of its leading lights. This is so juicy and attractive, with red fruit purity and beautiful cherry stone lift.

This comes from 0.7 hectares of premiers crus across the village: La Riotte, Les Sorbès, and Le Village (was there ever a more inaptly named premier cru?). The new style of vinification has drawn out the finest qualities of the fruit here: tight red berries, but with a fine silky texture to the tannins, and an elegant thread of acidity. Well played.

This is Jacques Devauges’ first vintage at the helm, and what a mark he has made. We tasted a blend of the various plots, carefully assembled by Jacques from barrel. The depth and dimensions of this Clos are extraordinary. It has notes of wild berries on the nose, with hints of flowers, tobacco and spice. The palate is drenched in fruit concentration, but there is nothing overpowering or heavy here - it has the natural grace and freshness of the best 2019s, with the underlying, subtle power of the fine grand cru terroir. This should prove one of the most fascinating Clos de Lambrays of the past 20 years. Conversion to organic farming twinned with the 2019 growing conditions resulted in a very small yield (just 15 hl/ha) and as a result this wine is released in tiny quantities.

Compared to its neighbour, Morgon, Régnié is one of the less well-known crus in Beaujolais. But when well made, its wines are fragrant and light, with a tasty acidity and fine structure, thanks to the granitic soils and slight elevation. Breton’s 2019 is a case in point: pale, 12.5%, lightly scented, and wonderfully thirst-quenching.

This Morgon has an impressive concentration with some charming, light-footed tannins that are enrobed by its crunchy redcurrant fruit. It has slightly more body than previous vintages, but with more acidity too, so that it glides effortlessly across the palate. This was tasting wonderfully in its youth, but it certainly has the structure and balance to age beautifully too. A highlight chez Breton.

This cuvée is all about freshness and elegance. It is lively and delicate, with pretty violet notes on the nose. There is succulent and surprising depth to the raspberry fruit of the palate. And whilst delicate, it has a refreshing frame derived from its elevation and granitic and schist soils, making it a quintessential example of Chiroubles, the highest of the Beaujolais crus, and of the Breton style.

This cuvée is all about freshness and elegance. It is lively and delicate, with pretty violet notes on the nose. There is succulent and surprising depth to the raspberry fruit of the palate. And whilst delicate, it has a refreshing frame derived from its elevation and granitic and schist soils, making it a quintessential example of Chiroubles, the highest of the Beaujolais crus, and of the Breton style.

Like all the Breton wines, this was made using the region’s classic carbonic maceration technique, where the whole bunch berries start their fermentation under a protective blanket of carbon dioxide, and flavours of sweet strawberries, violets, blueberries, and kirsch emerge. This is a little bit wild, but deliciously crunchy and quenching. With only the lightest tannin frame, and with perfumed blueberry and strawberry fruit, it is a charming example of a vin de soif, best enjoyed a little chilled.

This is consistently one of the finest cuvées in Jean-Claude’s line-up, and in 2019 it is truly excellent. 80% whole bunch fruit in this blend results in a pretty style, which is concentrated but also so fresh and lively with raspberry and blueberry fruits. The tender fruits on the palate culminate in a long finish with some distinguishing structure beneath. Tannins and fruit are harmoniously balanced here. Poised, with granitic minerality; a classical and delicious Brouilly.

This is made from a high quality Beaujolais village parcel, but after the wine was rejected in 2012 for being ‘too pale’, Jean-Claude decided to change its classification to the much freer Vin de France, valuing the innate character of the wine over the AOC’s regulations. It remains one of the most interesting in his range. The palate is so light on its feet, with a lifted red berry energy. 100% whole bunch fruit gives it a cool, bright structure with lacy tannins. No sulphur dioxide is added at all here. Equally well suited as a chilled aperitif red or a superb lighter style to finish an evening off: this is natural winemaking at its finest, least-faddy best.

You can tell when tasting with Jean-Claude that this cuvée holds a special place in his heart. He only makes it in great years, from a selection of the best bunches he spontaneously keeps separate as the pickers pass through the vineyards. As a result, it comes from various parcels: a bit of Brouilly, a bit of Côte de Brouilly, a bit of Beaujolais Villages. Unlike his other wines, it is completely destemmed, and undergoes a seven month maceration in large clay amphorae. This unusual vinification makes for a surprisingly energetic wine, with a juicy body, and ripe, clean freshness on the palate that overflows with hedgerow fruit. It’s certainly not run of the mill Gamay.

This, unusually, comes in a Bordeaux bottle rather than a Burgundy one: a quirk from a strange request years ago that has been embraced as a fond tradition for this structured cuvée. Some of these vines were planted in 1900, and the concentration and depth of the wine are a notable distinction to his other cuvées. Cool blueberry fruit on the nose, and an emphatic, tannic structure on the palate, bursting with black cherry flavours. This is voluptuous Beaujolais.

This might just be the best value grand cru in Burgundy. For the sheer weight of character, depth, and precision, you couldn’t do much better for the same price anywhere else. It is smoky, taut, so intense. The palate has elevated power and freshness. This should make great old bones.

Initially this is a little shy, but a quick swirl releases an intense nose of classical saline lime and apple. There is a harmony here between the ripeness of the vintage, with ripe stone fruit, and the nervous freshness of this style of Chablis. Fennel and fresh flowers weave through the texture of the wine. This is excellent.

It is hard to overemphasise how much more than a standard Chablis this is. The old vines range from 40 to 68 years old, and are scattered across seven different parcels, with a variety of soil structures and exposures. It takes the prize for ‘hidden gem’ of our Chablis range, with its crunchy, lime-juice zing, and compelling mineral freshness. The palate has weight and drive. This may be a wine of humble communal classification, but it has a profound character, and deserves special attention.

Fourchaume is one of the warmest sites in Chablis, thanks to its southerly exposure. In the hands of the Bessins, it retains its punchy freshness in an explosive bright pineapple style. Vibrant, juicy, with a little touch of yellow spice, and a long, fresh finish. This is a prime example of the ‘alive’ style of wines here: it has so much expression, even in youth.

This is the only white that Catharina makes. The grapes come from Volnay, and, though Aligoté can tend to underripeness, these have achieved a very elegant and ripe 13.5%. She vinified it in two parts: one with five days skin contact, the other without, and blended them after malolactic fermentation. There is a brilliant concentration and energy in the wine, with an apple and lemon zing. Who needs Chardonnay when Aligoté can be this good?

This is packed with flavour. It has a full and deep palate, and more structured, meaty tannins than the rest of the Horées wines, showing all the muscle and density Gevrey is known for. The fruit is a dark, intense, cassis-laced delight.

This is a particular highpoint in the Horées cellar, but sadly only made in tiny quantities. Deliciously salty, savoury and silky. It is so complete; and combines a weightless flow with real intensity. It is a brilliant example of this premier cru. Snap it up whilst you can.

Les Prévolles is the emblematic cuvée of this young estate. It was the first vineyard Catharina bought, and she tends it like a garden. A moderating 50% whole bunch sees this cuvée succeed in a cool-fruited style with great purity of expression. It has a sweet, fine length, and delicate, supple tannins. This is skilled winemaking - coaxing finesse and precision from the fruit.

This is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Beaune and 40% Gamay from Pommard. Previously these wines were known as Passetoutgrain; the change in appellation name a few years ago has coincided with a renewed interest in this unusual style of red from Burgundy. Some are simple and fruity, others, like this, are more serious, with a savoury density and precision in the fruit. Blue fruit, with a sweet core, and fresh, crunchy tannins.

Catharina’s Bourgogne Rouge vines are in Pommard, and she has got the whole bunch (80%) just right here - it is so perfumed, with chalky tannins and a fruity length, and just a little hint of wild herbs coming through.

This 3.7 hectare parcel is nicely positioned in the middle of the slope and has produced a wonderful wine, with sweet fruit, pomegranate and toasted spice. It is fairly structured, but with an agile frame, so it should start to drink well from early on. It is one of the bargains of the list.

Clos des Mouches is best known for its association with Drouhin, whose vines entirely surround the substantial 4.3 hectare parcel belonging to Chanson. This is an ethereal, elegant expression, with soft, lifted red fruits and an abundance of fresh fine-grained tannins.

This vineyard became a monopole of Chanson back in 1968, and since then has become the emblematic cuvée of the domaine. It is structured around dark fruit, and has unfurling layers of spice and minerality.

This village parcel is in the north of the commune, bordering Puligny-Montrachet. If you turn your gaze up the hill, you’ll notice it is spitting distance from Bâtard-Montrachet, with only the thin sliver of Vide Bourse 1er Cru separating them. The soil is slightly more humid here, which is no bad thing in a warm year like 2019 to help guard the vines against the drought conditions. It is quintessentially Chassagne in style: firmly structured, with a saline, savoury, nutty palate. But its Puligny proximity peaks through in that refined, steely finish. More than an average village wine, yet pleasingly, still priced as such.

There’s a good reason this is one of the most popular wines on our list. It captures everything you’d want from a classic Bourgogne Blanc and is keenly priced. The 2019 is 55% down in volume after some parcels were frosted in early April. Most of the fruit comes from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Puligny Montrachet, and Meursault, and the character of the 2019 is floral, fine, and energetic, with superb length for a wine of this level. It is a brilliant ambassador wine for the poised, flavourful, and sophisticated style of the wines in the Olivier Leflaive stable.

This has that stinging, vibrant Puligny nose, and is unmistakably premier cru at the first sip. Prickly green fruit and freshly cut flowers. This is all lemon verbena and saline tension on the palate. You really can feel the influence of the chalky soil here in the precision and persistence of the wine. Only 5 barrels were made in 2019.

It is just amazing how the Olivier Leflaive wines can be at once the most benchmark example of their appellations, and also some of the most exciting in their category. This is everything Puligny should be, and more: tight, steely, nervous, and fantastically long. Fine mineral tension with piercing freshness, and just the right amount of fruit power beneath the elegant frame.

Less than half the volumes of a normal year came from this site, tucked up at the top of the village on the border with Auxey Duresses. The cooler hilltop position helped the wine retain a terrific mineral drive in 2019, matched by ripe, rich fruit. The weight of a little glycerol gives this wine that classic Meursault weight. Highly satisfying.

Only 5 barrels of this were made in 2019. This site has an exceptional exposition, enjoying the sunshine all day long. The result is a wine bursting with ripe fruit character: pineapple and nectarine, with some pretty floral spice on the nose. This is swish and stylish, and is a perfect match for the powerful, nutty style of the Olivier Leflaive winemaking.

Just a pair of 300-litre barrels of this were made in 2019. It’s always the way! There’s never enough of the wine that steals the show. With dramatic aromatics of freshly sliced lime and a spiced lift, there is something here that recalls a young Riesling on the nose. But it zooms right back to the distinctive terroir of Truffières with the powerful elegance of the palate. This is an exceptional wine. So many dimensions, so complex, so compelling. It soars.

This is 100% domaine-owned fruit from the tiny clos of just 1.7ha in the climat of Vergers on the Chassagne/St-Aubin border. It is flecked with gold green, and its fruit expression is as brilliant as its crystalline appearance. This has impressive fruit weight and powerful freshness. The 25% new oak is woven seamlessly through its core.

Like the Truffières, this was made in very limited quantities, with just one 300-litre barrel and one 350-litre barrel in 2019. Folatières’ place in the firmament of truly great Burgundian terroirs has been assured for many years. In the hands of Franck in 2019, it fulfills its remarkable potential. Bursting with power, this has an unparalleled depth of fruit and mineral complexity. Give this a few years in bottle, and be blown away by the quality.

This is a blend of three terroirs and is vinified almost exclusively in oak, with just a fraction of it new. It has a gorgeously sumptuous, ripe fruit core. And what’s more, it tastes so fresh - the juiciness and fully ripened apricot and peach fruit flavours wrap around an energetic, zippy acidity. A very smart buy.

There’s a good reason this is one of the most popular wines on our list. It captures everything you’d want from a classic Bourgogne Blanc and is keenly priced. The 2019 is 55% down in volume after some parcels were frosted in early April. Most of the fruit comes from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Puligny Montrachet, and Meursault, and the character of the 2019 is floral, fine, and energetic, with superb length for a wine of this level. It is a brilliant ambassador wine for the poised, flavourful, and sophisticated style of the wines in the Olivier Leflaive stable.

There’s a good reason this is one of the most popular wines on our list. It captures everything you’d want from a classic Bourgogne Blanc and is keenly priced. The 2019 is 55% down in volume after some parcels were frosted in early April. Most of the fruit comes from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Puligny Montrachet, and Meursault, and the character of the 2019 is floral, fine, and energetic, with superb length for a wine of this level. It is a brilliant ambassador wine for the poised, flavourful, and sophisticated style of the wines in the Olivier Leflaive stable.

This brilliant value Bourgogne Blanc comes from limestone parcels scattered around the Puligny side of Meursault. It has a pretty floral reduction and a flattering, full, luscious palate, with the vintage’s ripe but fresh acidity shining through. 25% new oak is relatively high for a Bourgogne, adding savoury definition - you get a lot of bang for your buck here. It is a great introduction to the Côte d’Or.

This cuvée is a blend of two parcels: predominantly the hillside vineyard Les Clous, with a touch of Les Crotots lower down, which sits just next to Poruzots. Marion explained how the styles of the two parcels always complement each other. In 2019 it is smooth and complete, and it is a great shame volumes are down due to frost. No new oak is used here; this wine is all about pure fruit expression, with wonderful texture.

This is the jewel in the crown of this estate. Just four barrels were made (all one year old). The vines are on the Aloxe-Corton side of the sill, south-facing, with clay/limestone soil. This 2019 has the classic Corton Charlemagne smoky bacon notes on the nose, and rich, deep, chewy pineapple fruit on the palate. The acidity sings through the silky texture. Brilliant weight and persistence.

A blend of Les Casses Têtes with Les Murgers de Monthélie, bottled as a blend since 1996. It is a straighter, more driven expression of Meursault, with a narrow, piercing finish. Of all the Javillier Meursaults, this is the most refined and elegant. Leave for a year or two before diving in.

This comes from the top of a limestone slope, which has very little top soil, and vines need to dig deep for sustenance. Its notes of grapefruit and bitter orange are wrapped around by the warm support of 30% new oak, giving a little ginger spice on the finish. This should drink well from youth, but could go on many years.