2019 Burgundy: All Wines

This is undoubtedly one of the greatest premier cru sites in the Côte de Nuits. Clos Frantin are the proud owners of 1.75 hectares. It has a powerful but controlled aroma, laden with rich red fruits and oak spice. On the palate there is that core of sweetness you find only in the best examples of Pinot Noir, where freshness, ripeness, and power are all in perfect balance. Satin-like tannins and a powerful length.

This plot was once considered in the same breath as Chambertin and other great sites, so it now constitutes a real bargain. It is fruit, flamboyant, and fragrant in 2019, bursting with the scent of crushed raspberries. There is some stony minerality on the palate and delicious, crunchy little tannins. Bright and enticing.

Where Les Vaucoupins is discreet and reserved, Les Clos is expressive and powerful, with the full, luscious weight of the warm year behind it. 25% is raised in oak, of which only a tiny portion is new. This is a buttery, weighted, striking, and satisfying Les Clos, given exciting precision by the vintage’s wonderful acidity. Pretty smart for the money.

There are few premiers crus prized as highly as this. Many put Les Amoureuses on a par with grands crus, and it has stolen the hearts of many. It is the quintessential expression of Chambolle-Musigny, brimming with sweet redcurrant fruit, and gliding along on silky tannins.

Clos Frantin owns 0.63 hectares of the Clos, running from the bottom to top on the south side of the vineyard. This is yet another example where this vineyard - sometimes dismissed in the company of other grands crus - has excelled in 2019. Pure and poised, with smooth edges and delicious fruit depth.

This wine is not only where his cellars are based, it is also the calling card of the domaine. It shows a burst of juicy red berries on the nose, with a lifted, minty freshness. The tannins are so strawberry-soft and supple that the overall impression is of an incredibly silky texture, that might feel like it were missing some structure if it weren’t for the elegant freshness of the Hautes-Côtes acidity. Nice peppery nuance to the cranberry fruit palate.

From next vintage, Ch de Fuissé will finally be able to put ‘premier cru’ on the label of this wine. Le Clos, a 2.7 hectare monopole vineyard that lies just next to the Château, has been selected as one of the finest parcels in the appellation and deserving of this historic upgrade. The oldest vines here were planted in 1929, and the youngest in 1984. There is such a chiselled intensity in this wine, with smoky tension, and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is precise, energetic and persistent. It is no surprise this will be upgraded to premier cru.

This is arguably the most famous and celebrated of Puligny’s premiers crus, whose chalky soils have produced some of the finest bottles of white Burgundy ever. There is such a precise attack here, with a marked salinity. Notes of grapefruit and spring flowers on the nose, with a palate that is so distinctly racy, this couldn’t be anything other than Puligny.

Since 2012, Alain has been exchanging juice with a neighbour, for just one barrel of this astonishing grand cru that he vinifies and ages in his cellar along with his premiers crus. It has a big bite, and nectarine plump juiciness underneath. This has richness and definition, and a long saline finish.

The plot of Charmes in Puligny is a continuation of 1er Cru Charmes in Meursault, and shares many of its characteristics, like the light, fine, stony soils. It certainly merits single bottling, with its fine-boned nervous freshness and delicate richness underneath. Plenty of fragrant, fresh yellow fruit and a light blossom note. Great value.

Aux Réas is an excellent village lieu dit that a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It sits at the southern end of the village, and its wines can offer some of neighbouring Nuits’ structure and firmness, with the supple, rippling fruit of classical Vosne.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice. It has an intensity and volumes that will unfurl with time.

Sweet-fruited, red berries, with some rounded silky tannins and the vintage’s signature freshness on the finish.

This is the largest premier cru at Ballot-Millot, and can be relied upon to produce a sensational wine year-in year-out. It is so savoury, weighty, but not heavy, dense and with fabulous purity. Outstanding.

This sits amongst a clutch of the top premiers crus in the village. The vines are over 80 years old, and have weathered the hot summer well. This is enticing and floral, with a poised edge. It has brilliant tension and precision, with a staggering length.

Morgeot borders Santenay at the south end of the village, and is not only the largest premier cru in Chassagne, but the largest cru in the Côte d’Or. This wine is a blend of two lieux dits within: Les Fairendes and La Cadeuse, found at either end of the large cru. There is such intense fruit here, with plump orange pulp character, some white blossom, and light citrus oil, enrobed in zinging freshness.

The fruit comes from a number of parcels, all within the Chassagne commune. Alex says he looks for energy rather than too much ripeness in his Bourgogne. This has a wonderfully sweet core of nectarine, and some tart freshness balancing the natural roundness of the wine. A fragrant and charming Bourgogne Blanc, you will never regret having a few bottles of this in the cellar.

Consistently one of the finest sites in St-Aubin, towards the crest of the hill approaching Chassagne and its grands crus. Vibrant lime green flecks in the glass. The wine has a vibrant aroma of greengages, ripe peaches and blossom. Pure and very balanced.

This wine has been bottled as a single vineyard cuvée by Amélie’s father for many years, and remains the flagship wine of the estate. It is just over a hectare and sits right in the heart of the appellation, just below the village itself. The alluvial soils, particularly at the bottom of the parcel, are well-draining. The vines age between 15 and 70 years, and the wine has a brilliantly grippy fresh fruit drive with ample tannins and a spicy backbone.

This comes from a parcel of 60-year-old vines grown on the granite slopes of Mont Brouilly. These volcanic soils produce a wonderfully persistent style of Beaujolais, with the charming strawberry and cherry fruits on the nose. The palate abounds with dark juicy fruit and ripe, grippy tannins and a vibrat length. This has the structure to age extremely well.

This comes from the older vines in one of the domaine’s three large vineyards above Nantoux, named Bignon, where the elevation measures precisely 421 metres. Much like the young vine cuvée, this has a mellifluous fluidity and charm, with an added intensity of red fruit: delicious crunchy cranberry flavours, with a little new oak toastiness to support. Expertly done, this is a stunning debut.

This remarkable village lieu dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has a dark-fruited depth, with a tannin structure that feels so sumptuous and silky. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru.

These are the oldest vines of the domaine, and were planted in 1902. Their concentration and complexity shows on the nose, which is chalky, floral, pretty, and spicy. The wine has so much energy, tightly coiled, and sinewy, with a pomegranate weight and floral power.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. There is a spicy depth of fruit on the nose, and a surprisingly fine, elegant frame on the palate. It always has a sweet salinity to it, which complements the nicely ripe fruit in 2019. A charming Gevrey premier cru that should drink well from early on. One of Bruno’s personal favourites.