Loire 2021 Releases

Around half this Pinot Noir is raised in oak, and half in tank. Antoine is clearly a skilled winemaker: this wine’s tannins are ripe and silky. The oak gives just a little lift and structure. This Pinot Noir stands out amongst its peers with genuine concentration of fruit.

This vineyard lies right next to the domaine and was the first single vineyard that Charles Joguet focused on. Its north-east facing slope and old vines planted on clay-limestone soils produce a wine with outstanding energy, and spicy density. Profoundly deep but with no heaviness. There is such a sweet intensity to the Cabernet Franc fruit, and a mouthwatering salinity.

This is the domaine’s ‘newest’ parcel, bought in 1976. Located near the cellar, in the south of the Chinon appellation, this is like a mini Clos de la Dioterie, on deep clay-limestone soils with colluvial topsoil. It typically shows great balance between tannins and acidity, so smooth and composed in 2019. It glides to an effortlessly elegant and long finish.

This parcel is quintessential Chinon: at the top of the hill overlooking the Loire river, its flood plains, and the charming eponymous town. It is named after the huge and statuesque oak tree that grows at its edge. Its excellent position affords it good ripening and drainage. The soil here is clay and sandstone, and produces a wine with a pretty red fruit structure, and some distinctively spicy notes. In 2019 it has harmonious balance, a little lighter in weight than the Varenne and Dioterie, it has this amazing freshness to the fruit.

Of the many Sancerre Rouges we tasted, this stood out as one of the best in the charming, early drinking style. It has lovely concentration of fruit with well managed ripeness. Whole bunch vinification gives it a delicate juiciness. Extremely pretty and nicely weighted. Drink this young and slightly chilled for a superbly refreshing glass of red.

This Pinot is all vinified and aged in stainless steel tank. This method helps capture the variety’s purest fruit, which in this case is ripe raspberries and redcurrants, with a charming minty lift. There’s a subtle graphite note running through the palate, and slightly more weight and persistence than in previous vintages, though overall it remains light-bodied and thirst-quenching in style.

This is made from two parcels, both planted in the 1940s. Jérôme uses the fifteenth-century tuffeau cuve in the old cellar to do a long, slow fermentation to bring out some delicious complexity in this Cabernet Franc. This has a subtle, sophisticated nose, and the palate is fine and enticing. Supple tannins, a juicy dark fruit core, and a long flow with a mineral finish.

This juicy, fruity style of Chinon has a vibrant violet aroma, with notes of sour cherry and graphite. Its leafy lift is typical of Cabernet Franc, as is the freshness of the palate. This is a zappy fresh red, perfect enjoyed a little chilled.

All the fruit for this blend comes from two parcels found at the bottom part of the slope. Some vines here are as old as 80 years, so although the attack of this wine is juicy, upfront, and invitingly drinkable, the finish is sustained and persistent with that old vine concentration taking this above a simple easy-drinking wine. This 2019 has a leafy, sour cherry note, with lightly smoky, vegetal notes so typical of Cabernet Franc. It really opens up in the glass, promising it should age well.

This is the sweet spot of Domaine de la Butte - from right in the middle of the slope - and as such, produces the most complex and ageworthy of this triptych. Jacky and Jean-Philippe hold the wine back for an extra six months in the cellar before release as they know: this wine needs time. Its huge concentration and tannic stature are matched to slightly more new oak than the other wines. The density of fruit is more than a match.

As the name suggests, this fruit comes from the top of the slope. The fruit feels darker than that of the Pied de la Butte, and the tannins are more present. There’s a graphite, savoury complexity to the dark fruit. The texture on the palate is great, quite structured and tight now, but with the potential to carry this wine for many years.

This is one of the most unusual and exciting wines we have on the list. It is made from Malbec, a variety that has long been grown in the Loire, known locally as Côt. Today it’s hard to find much Côt, and this wine gets snapped up quickly every year. The 2019 has juicy ripe black fruits on the nose with a leafy lift. The palate pitches concentrated black cherry flavours against soft, light tannins and a peppery, bright freshness. Fleshy, spicy, and delicious.

The perennial red-wine-bargain of the list, this great little wine has succeeded again in 2020. After a short period of ageing the wine is bottled, and even in its first year it offers an upfront, fruity and refreshing style of red, centred on red cherry fruits with detailed little tannins, that give it a nice grip, but also slip down a treat, even in youth.

This is made from various parcels of old vines that are all located on the hillsides, with good drainage. This is a benchmark Chinon that has flourished in the 2019 vintage. There is nicely fragrant red fruit on the nose, with a touch of graphite and seaweed, giving it an iodine edge. The palate has a spicy, lightly herbaceous weight and fine, firm tannins, with lovely acidity.

This comes from a blend of parcels in the village of Bué, thought to be the best source of Pinot Noir in the Sancerre appellation. 50 year old vines and low yields of around 30hl/ha give wonderful concentration. This means volumes are small, and demand will far outstrip supply for this wine. It has deliciously fresh, ripe red fruit at its core, and silky tannins, it is an exceptionally well made Pinot Noir in any context.