France's wild frontier

“Sea and Mountains” is an evocative name, and goes some way in describing this wine’s salty, poised balance. And a bonkers label featuring a cow floating above the sea and mountains, airborne by colourful balloons, goes some way in describing the unusual and off-the-beaten track nature of this domaine, and this wine. At just 12.5% abv, with a savoury texture and light but juicy, crunchy berry flavours, this is a brilliant aperitif red.

At just 12.5% abv, translucent in colour, and with a peppery, herby freshness on the nose, this might not be what springs to mind for the warm climes of the south. The palate has that sweet, silky flow of sun ripened fruit, so that it manages to be both restrained and indulgent all at once. The altitude of the Côtes Catalanes are the secret to this style. Tiny volumes mean this has remained a well-kept secret. It is well worth discovering.

The raw and ruggedly beautiful wind-beaten hillsides of the Pyrenées as they dip into the azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea produce tiny quantities of intensely flavoured wine from gnarled old vines. This has such a rich and complex nose, its flavours range from mango to wild tarragon to salted peanuts all in one swirl of the glass. There is astonishing, salty concentration on the palate; it’s hard to believe this is only 12.5% abv. It is in a perfect moment of maturity right now.