France's wild frontier

What a delicious white wine. This salty, expressive white from this enterprising estate in Languedoc offers outstanding value for money. Aromas of fresh white flowers and the salty spray of the Mediterranean make this citrus scented white the perfect aperitif. Balanced, refreshing, unfussy and delicious.

If you’ve ever enjoyed fresh seafood with piquant aioli in the charming Provencal seaside town of Cassis, you probably washed it down with this - the classic white from the appellation’s greatest domaine. It is bursting with floral, tangy, citrus aromas. The soft palate is the perfect foil to summer seafood dishes, and will disappear faster than you can get the next bottle cool.

This barrel fermented Grenache Gris from a brilliant estate in Roussillon delivers a level of precision and elegance one wouldn't normally associate with this wild southwest corner of the French coast. Coume del Mas’s wines exemplify the terrific quality of still dry wines emerging from a region previously associated with sweet, fortified ones. Perfumed with almonds and an exotic touch from some salty reduction, its well-judged oak gives weight and balance, and rounds out this silky, delicious white.

Gérard Gauby established this domaine in the foothills of the Pyrenées, cherishing the spot for the freshness and expression it produced in these old vine whites. This is an esoteric blend, including Sauvignon Blanc and Vermentino, among many others. The 2016 is their current release, showing how much Le Soula believe in the ageing potential of their wines. Notes of greengage, fennel and orange blossom on the nose, with a taut yet intense palate. Totally delicious.

Brothers Yves and Hugues Ricome have run Domaine La Croix Gratiot for over thirty years, but only started bottling their own wines in 2005. This comes from a limestone plateau right by the sea, and is a bright, energetic, textured expression of the Picpoul grape. Notes of grapefruit pith and sea spray, and a long and savoury finish. Very good value.

The raw and ruggedly beautiful wind-beaten hillsides of the Pyrenées as they dip into the azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea produce tiny quantities of intensely flavoured wine from gnarled old vines. This has such a rich and complex nose, its flavours range from mango to wild tarragon to salted peanuts all in one swirl of the glass. There is astonishing, salty concentration on the palate; it’s hard to believe this is only 12.5% abv. It is in a perfect moment of maturity right now.