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David Moreau
Critic Score
88.5/100
2023 Maranges Aux Gryphées, David Moreau Dry | Red | Still | 13%

Maranges is the final limit of the Côte d’Or, and a source of crunchy, great value reds, if you follow the right grower. This is actually a blend of village and premier cru fruit (from 1er Cru Clos Rousseau), which David declassifies to give his village Maranges more volume and quality. The name Gryphée is a type of fossilised mollusc found within the limestone soil. This year David used around 15% whole bunches which has given a little peppery lift to the charming dark cherry fruit tinged with crushed violets. Lithe and supple, this is a great buy.

Ready: 2025 - 2031
Critic Score
90/100
2023 Santenay Les Hâtes, David Moreau Dry | Red | Still | 13%

Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by Premiers Crus on well-draining red-tinged soil. It is an early-ripening terroir that makes for a floral, ethereal style of Pinot with lovely proportions. David uses around 10% whole bunches and aims to focus on the floral character as a natural expression of the site which David sees emerge every year. A compelling introduction to Santenay with bright, red berry fruits and a lick of blood orange on the juicy finsh.

Ready: 2026 - 2033
Domaine Ballot-Millot
Critic Score
88.5/100
2023 Meursault, Domaine Ballot-Millot Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

Charles Ballot's village Meursault is as complete a white Burgundy as you'll find in this excellent vintage. It's a blend of parcels from around the village, and shows 2023's gorgeously silky fruit, with layers of citrus flavours and fresh, saline lift.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
Domaine Boris Champy
Critic Score
91/100
2023 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Altitude 377 Le Clou, Domaine Boris Champy Magnum Dry | Red | Still | 12.5%

Le Clou is a single vineyard in Nantoux sitting at a precise 377 metres elevation. Its soil is similar to Volnay, with chalky, rocky topsoil over limestone marl bedrock. 90% whole-bunch has been used to great effect here: it has a fine, elegant aroma of maraschino cherries and cinnamon spice, with silky tannins and impressive concentration on the poised finish. 100% 1 year old oak - this is the wine that Boris is making to try and elevate / demonstrate what he is doing in the Hautes-Côtes.

Ready: 2026 - 2036
Critic Score
89.5/100
2023 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Altitude 421 En Bignon, Domaine Boris Champy Dry | Red | Still | 13%

The Bignon parcel has red clay soil, not dissimilar to that found in pockets of Pommard. It usually produces an easy-going, fruit-forward wine, but the excellent structure found in this 2023 is striking. It still has the signature smooth fruit, but with fine, lightly chalky tannins from well-handled 60% whole-bunch fruit. The 20% new oak rounds out the concentrated cherry character.

Ready: 2026 - 2034
Critic Score
89/100
2023 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Altitude, Domaine Boris Champy Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This comes from a blend of the domaine’s young vines with a small dash of extremely old vines, from multiple parcels scattered around the village of Nantoux. It has a crunchy acidity giving it a fresh profile, which is twinned with the rose petal and ripe raspberry character. Whole-bunch has been upped to 60% in 2023 giving it a spiced, graceful length on the finish.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté Doré, Domaine Boris Champy Dry | White | Still

New to our range for 2023, this comes from 2 parcels at the top of the hill near En Bignon, lying at 421 metres above sea-level. It is fermented in 500 and 600-litre barrels, and has a pure and open nose showing hints of white peach and honeysuckle. The palate is expertly balanced, slickly textural and focussed all the way through the slightly, spicy, saline finish. Wow.

Ready: 2025 - 2038
Critic Score
86.5/100
2023 Coteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Boris Champy Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This is a new addition to the list in 2023: we just couldn’t resist. It’s made from old vine Gamay grown on the steep slopes of Nantoux (true to its name, unlike many other Coteaux Bourguignons which are grown on the flat plains on the other side of the route nationale). It was vinified with 50% whole-bunch fruit, gently handled in the cellar with low extraction. Some of the vines are ninety-years-old, and the concentration and kick this gives to the wine is notable. It’s gorgeous: juicy, fruit-forward, and joyful. Don’t miss this little rocket.

Ready: 2025 - 2031
Critic Score
91/100
2023 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Altitude 377 Le Clou, Domaine Boris Champy Dry | Red | Still | 12.5%

Le Clou is a single vineyard in Nantoux sitting at a precise 377 metres elevation. Its soil is similar to Volnay, with chalky, rocky topsoil over limestone marl bedrock. 90% whole-bunch has been used to great effect here: it has a fine, elegant aroma of maraschino cherries and cinnamon spice, with silky tannins and impressive concentration on the poised finish. 100% 1 year old oak - this is the wine that Boris is making to try and elevate / demonstrate what he is doing in the Hautes-Côtes.

Ready: 2026 - 2034
Domaine Bruno Colin
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, Bruno Colin Dry | White | Still | 13%

This is the most linear and precise of Bruno’s Premiers Crus, with a zippy line running through the palate. It is tightly mineral and intricate, and in fact, feels quite a lot like a Puligny, yet there is a depth and texture to the fruit that draws you back to Chassagne. Saline and enduring in the finish. Outstanding.

Ready: 2026 - 2036
2023 Bourgogne Blanc, Bruno Colin Dry | White | Still | 13%

A serious Bourgogne Blanc: it comes from parcels across Santenay and St-Aubin, ripe peach and lemony fruit on the mid-palate paves the way for a long finish. It is delicious and refreshing.

Ready: 2025 - 2029
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet, Bruno Colin Dry | White | Still | 13%

This is a fantastic example of village Chassagne, with attractive nectarine fruit character and an expressive, bright palate. It gets its intensity from the old vines (some are approaching 70 years) from nine parcels scattered across the village. A smattering of new oak gives it structure and support. Long and satisfying finish.

Ready: 2026 - 2033
Domaine Comte Armand
Critic Score
89.5/100
2023 Volnay, Comte Armand Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This Volnay is so balanced and complete. Pillowy, gently spiced red fruit leads to a silky, aromatically complex palate, spiced through with fresh wild strawberry fruit. It is a blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. There is a touch of sweetly-scented dry extract, making it both tender and mineral.

Ready: 2026 - 2036
Critic Score
89.75/100
2023 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru, Comte Armand Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable, with hints of cassis, sapid, black cherry and sweet spice. It is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: 70% Les Bréterins and 30% Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep and well-draining, with limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant and inviting in its youth. A standout in 2023.

Young: 2027 - 2038
Critic Score
93.5/100
2023 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux, Comte Armand Dry | Red | Still

This is an important vineyard both in terms of its size (5.23 hectares) and its historical stock of 100+ year old vines. The concentration here, in 2023, is exquisite. It is another great example of the Clos and one of the finest we have tasted - another chance for Paul Zinetti, régisseur, to rewrite the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only. Instead this is powerful, svelte, profound, and intense. It is truly one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

Young: 2029 - 2045
Critic Score
88/100
2023 Côtes de Beaune Blanc, Les Monsnières, Comte Armand Dry | White | Still | 13%

The grapes for this new négoce cuvée come from just south of the Montagne de Beaune, on the border with the forest. Energetic, and packed full of fresh yet ripe citrus fruit. This is joyous and offers excellent value.

Ready: 2025 - 2029
Critic Score
89.5/100
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Frémiets, Comte Armand Dry | Red | Still

Les Frémiets sits on the border with Pommard, and the wine often shows the character of both villages. It is the most fine-boned, and restrained wine in the cellar this year, its charm derived from its elegant restraint. Its high proportion of old vines make a concentrated and deep wine. This is a polished, refined, and soulful Volnay. Another highlight in 2023.

Young: 2028 - 2040
2023 Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc, Le Mont, Comte Armand Dry | White | Still | 13%

Matured in 600-litre demi-muids without batonnage, this new négoce cuvée is the epitome of balance. There’s plenty of pure, ripe yellow orchard fruit, a pretty texture and a mineral, fresh finish.

Ready: 2025 - 2029
Critic Score
88/100
2023 Hautes Côtes de Beaune Rouge, Le Polent, Comte Armand Dry | Red | Still | 13%

100% de-stemmed fruit from Nolay, near Maranges goes into this tiny production new négoce cuvée. Light, bright, pretty with pure red fruit. This is delightful.

Ready: 2025 - 2031
Critic Score
88/100
2023 Auxey-Duresses, Comte Armand Dry | Red | Still | 13%

Auxey-Duresses is a relatively unknown village of the Côte de Beaune, tucked up above Meursault, next to Monthelie, on the way to St-Romain. This anonymity is in spite of its association with Lalou Bize-Leroy. Comte Armand's vines - in lieu-dit Largillas - sit just above her Les Clous vines. Largillas gives the most spectacular views of the pretty village, and have an enviable mid-slope position for a village parcel. It is always one of the best value and most characterful reds on our list. In 2023 it has a nervous, vibrant energy, with brilliant concentration and a fresh and juicy body.

Ready: 2026 - 2033
Critic Score
88/100
2023 Bourgogne Rouge, Comte Armand Dry | Red | Still | 13%

The grapes for this new négoce cuvée come from Saint-Sernin-du-Plain, next to Maranges. Vibrant, and packed full of pretty, floral red fruit with supple tannins. 40% whole bunch gives this a wonderful, spritely lift.

Ready: 2025 - 2031
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
Critic Score
92/100
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

La Maltroie is located just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village. The domaine owns two parcels of old vines of up to 70 years old, one of 0.56 hectares and the other 0.17 hectares. Céline says it is always approachable from early on, and is hence one of the first Premiers Crus to be bottled. It has once again outstanding purity and freshness in 2023, the fruit of not only an excellent growing season but a master in control of her art. Packed full of fresh, peachy fruit, this is finely balanced and precise with a long, moreish saline finish. A top pick.

Ready: 2026 - 2034
Critic Score
95/100
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

Bâtard-Montrachet is never short of showy power, even in youth. It seems to have loved the style of 2023, and thrived in the conditions. It’s smoky, weighty, and concentrated, and overall an incredibly handsome wine.

Young: 2028 - 2039
Domaine François Buffet
Critic Score
91/100
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Carelle sous la Chapelle, Domaine François Buffet Dry | Red | Still | 14.5%

This is one of many Volnay Premiers Crus that Marc-Olivier has at his fingertips. The site’s generous topsoil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay Premiers Crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a fleshy, succulent texture on the palate. There is a slight ferrous note with accents of wild herbs and liquorice root. The silky red and dark berry fruit wrap around the palate leading to a bright and graceful finish.

Ready: 2025 - 2036
Critic Score
91.75/100
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, Domaine François Buffet Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This is arguably the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines even more venerable. This year the grapes are totally destemmed and there is a natural concentration and complexity from the old vines offering small, tight bunches. The wine has a beautiful, sinewy structure with accents of cherry blossom and detailed hedgerow fruit on the finish. Refreshing and very fine.

Ready: 2025 - 2036
Critic Score
89/100
2023 Volnay, Domaine François Buffet Dry | Red | Still | 14%

This Village level Volnay comes from two parcels: the evocatively named Les Famines, whose paucity of soil makes the roots dig deep; and a small dash of the tiny lieu-dit, La Gigotte, which lifts this village wine up a notch. As always, this is entirely destemmed, showing all the accessibility and charm of this vintage. The wine offers ripe dark cherry fruit, violets and a lift of allspice. The tannin is very fine-grained and fluid on the palate with a delicate salinity on the finish.

Ready: 2025 - 2033
Critic Score
93/100
2023 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, Domaine François Buffet Dry | Red | Still | 13%

Like the Volnay Taillepieds, Les Rugiens is one of the smaller cuvées in the Buffet stable. It comes from the upper part of the vineyard, planted with vines that are now well over their hundred year mark. All work here is done by horse, and the attention to detail continues in the cellar. Rather tense and vibrant, there is a muscular power that hums beneath the surface of redcurrant and red cherry fruit. The 2023 shows real purity and salinity – a wine of terroir. Unlike some of the Volnay Premiers Crus from this domaine, this wine will need some time, so tuck it away for a few years.

Young: 2027 - 2042
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Critic Score
88/100
2022 Santenay Clos des Hâtes, Hubert Lamy Dry | Red | Still | 13%

It is well worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. This vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Today, high density planting and organic farming mean low yields, which does a great service to the fruit - red berries with a smoky graphite scent lingering over them. Mineral and defined.

Ready: 2025 - 2035
Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet et Fils
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet, Le Concis des Champs, Jean-Claude Bachelet et Fils Dry | Red | Still | 13%

The most structured of the Bachelet brothers' red, this opens with dark cherry fruit, fresh earth, cocoa and crushed violet petals. There is a course of freshness running through the palate with a supple and powdery feel to the tannins, which suggests it will age gracefully.

Ready: 2025 - 2030
Critic Score
91.25/100
2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Aubues, Jean-Claude Bachelet et Fils Dry | White | Still | 13%

Les Aubues is an enclave within Puligny’s excellent Enseignères, just below Le Bâtard-Montrachet. Les Enseignères has long been on the radar of collectors as one of the sweetest spots for any village wine on the whole Côte. This village wine is much more than just a village wine. There are generous golden fruit flavours, with a hint of peach stone bitterness adding the feeling of power and structure here. A very fine, vibrant Puligny this year.

Young: 2027 - 2036
Critic Score
91/100
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles, Jean-Claude Bachelet et Fils Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

The Bachelets have four parcels in this Premier Cru, the oldest of which were planted in 1927 and 1960. In total it represents around 0.5 hectares of vines easterly exposed on the mid-slope. In 2023 the Marcherelles is a stunning wine. Intense, dense and focused yet with an almost miraculous purity. Notes of grilled peach, white grapefruit and at its core, an unrelenting focus of mineral. One of the picks from the range this year.

Young: 2027 - 2037
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Critic Score
92/100
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes, Jean-Marc Boillot Dry | White | Still | 14%

The Boillots’ tiny but highly-regarded Combettes is situated between Les Referts and Champ Canet, at the top of the Puligny slope coming from three small parcels. It’s a truly brilliant wine in 2023, finding the perfect interplay of freshness and richness. It is assertive on the palate with vibrant notes of orange peel, white peach, and spiced pear. The finish offers a tightly coiled wave of minerality. There is grand cru-esque complexity here.

Ready: 2026 - 2038
Critic Score
93/100
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, Jean-Marc Boillot Dry | White | Still | 14%

This comes from two plots on the Meursault side of the village and has appealing spiced quince notes with fresh honeysuckle. The palate is rather dense showing impressive concentration of stone fruit, yet the finish is etched with an oyster shell minerality. Excellent potential here.

Ready: 2025 - 2036
Critic Score
96/100
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Jean-Marc Boillot Dry | White | Still | 14.5%

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

The domaine used to - technically - rent these vines from Jean-Marc’s mother, Lydie’s grandmother. She passed away three years ago and since then the domaine has inherited the two parcels, from which they make this fabulous wine. This year they made three barrels and used one new barrel for ageing. It has a power and depth that sets it apart from the premiers crus. For the moment the wine is a little closed, just giving a glimpse of the power and intensity below the surface. With a little air there are flickers of mineral and ocean spray, floral notes of acacia and white flowers and harmonious stone fruit. A wine that will need time but supremely impressive.

Young: 2027 - 2042 Maximum quantity (6 bottles) limit apply
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
Critic Score
89/100
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Mes Vieilles Vignes, Jean-Marc Pillot Dry | Red | Still | 13%

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With 50-60 year old vines planted on the clay soil pockets around the village, he has produced a great example in 2023. This old vine cuvée has a pretty spiced plum aroma on the nose, with textural red fruit detail on the palate. You’ll find slightly chalky, fine-grained tannins of the highest order here.

Ready: 2026 - 2037
Critic Score
91.5/100
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru Clos-St-Jean, Jean-Marc Pillot Dry | Red | Still | 13.5%

This is a brilliant example of what Pinot Noir can do in Chassagne when you combine old vines and serious winemaking. The poor soils of Clos St Jean have long been one of the hotspots for Pinot in the village, and Jean-Marc counts himself lucky to have inherited this parcel of 100+ year old vines. He likes to make a gourmand style you can approach from youth, but don’t let that make you think this is lacking in concentration or sophistication. This 2023 is sitting emphatically in the enticing, expressive red fruit spectrum, and the wine shows a level of freshness, complexity, concentration and precision that lifts it up to great heights.

Young: 2027 - 2038
Critic Score
94/100
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Jean-Marc Pillot Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

The Pillot’s steep, stony limestone parcel is a triumph in 2023. An alluring intensity on the nose of fresh pear and white flowers is followed by a more opulent palate. Layered and detailed with an exceptional texture, this powers through to the finish with its tangy, slightly spicy energy and a beautiful chalky undertone. An excellent example of this regal site.

Ready: 2026 - 2038
Critic Score
93/100
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, Jean-Marc Pillot Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

Les Vergers sits at the village’s northern border with St-Aubin, on the slope just above Les Chenevottes. The wine is floral, detailed, and open and charming in its youth. The palate is concentrated, vibrant and textured: there’s real weight to the fruit. It finishes with impressive power and delicious salinity.

Critic Score
90/100
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet, Jean-Marc Pillot Dry | White | Still | 13%

This is from three of the village’s best communal sites: Les Pierres (94-year-old vines), Mazures (40+), and Houillères (30+). The younger vines give lift, elegance and a vibrant drive, while the older vines give depth and power. It shows a pretty, slightly floral scent on the nose, with a fresh, energetic drive of acidity on the palate.

Domaine Louis Boillot
Critic Score
89/100
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards, Louis Boillot Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This vineyard bordering Pommard did once produce wines with some robust, muscular tannins. However, with vines reaching 70+ years, the tannins have begun to soften, becoming distinctly finer in recent years. The fruit character is darker here with black cherry and violet notes with hints of incense and earthiness. The finish is fleshy with a bright line of acidity.

Ready: 2026 - 2037
2023 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers, Louis Boillot Dry | Red | Still | 13%

The vines here are now around 80-90 years old – with a total of four barrels made in 2023. The wine offers spiced cherry fruit, wild strawberry with a fine grained and seamless texture on the palate. Quite a beautiful and seductive style of Nuits but with plenty of stuffing.

Young: 2027 - 2038
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Les Angles, Louis Boillot Dry | Red | Still | 13.5%

Always one of the first parcels to be picked due to the richer clay and limestone soils. This has a creamy and silky texture with detailed red berry fruits. There is a beautiful aerial character with a lift of rosehip and pink peppercorn on the finish.

Ready: 2026 - 2036
Domaine Marc Colin et Fils
Critic Score
92.25/100
2023 St-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, Marc Colin et Fils Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

This outstanding Premier Cru in St-Aubin sits on top of the hill that peaks between Chassagne and St-Aubin, just behind Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. The wine is a blend of five parcels within En Remilly, with different soils and elevation. It expresses the vineyard’s natural tendency to floral, peachy fruit, with an elegant, mineral tension underneath. The 2023 has an aromatic ripeness, with a controlled volume and rippling freshness.

Ready: 2026 - 2035 Maximum quantity (6 bottles) limit apply
Domaine Michel Bouzereau
Critic Score
87/100
2023 Bourgogne Côte d'Or Chardonnay, Michel Bouzereau Dry | White | Still | 14%

This is a Bourgogne full of peachy freshness, great volume and delicious energy. The fruit for this blend comes from three sites in Meursault (making up 60%), with the remainder from a single plot in Puligny. In spite of their Bourgogne classification, these sites are high quality, knocking on the door of village level, with shallow topsoil and lots of small stones, aiding drainage. A favourite Bourgogne.

Ready: 2025 - 2029
Critic Score
91/100
2023 Meursault 1er Cru Blagny, Michel Bouzereau Dry | White | Still | 13%

Blagny sits high up, 400m above the heart of the Meursault commune. This altitude brings a focused freshness to the wines. It has notes of ripe citrus, with a richly mineral seashell note - not unlike Chablis - on the nose. The soil is white limestone up here, and this makes for a scintillating palate. It feels straighter than the Grands Charrons, in many ways, more like a Puligny in profile than a Meursault. Saline, mineral, elegant and powerful.

Ready: 2025 - 2035
Critic Score
91.75/100
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gains, Michel Bouzereau Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

You can feel the character of the poor stony soil found in Puligny here in this wine’s floral, light-on-its-feet delicacy. It has a piercing, slightly spicy intensity accompanied by a tenderness of fruit on the textured finish. Enticing, with intricate structure and superb definition.

Ready: 2025 - 2032 Maximum quantity (6 bottles) limit apply
Critic Score
91/100
2023 Meursault Le Limozin, Michel Bouzereau Dry | White | Still | 13%

Quite classic in style, this opens with a little almond pastry, white peach and hints of butterscotch. The palate is juicy delivering plenty of well-defined stone fruit with a elegant freshness and focus. A hint of spice and fresh floral notes mingle on the finish.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
Critic Score
93.5/100
2023 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, Michel Bouzereau Dry | White | Still | 13%

Strictly limited to 6 bottles per customer

This is one of Meursault’s finest vineyards, shared amongst some of its greatest growers. It’s a clear step up in the Bouzereau line-up: textural, precise and enduring. Complexity abounds.

Ready: 2025 - 2035 Maximum quantity (6 bottles) limit apply
Critic Score
89.75/100
2023 Meursault Les Grands Charrons, Michel Bouzereau Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

This is one of the gems on our list: it may be village on paper, but this exceptionally well-placed parcel - an east-facing limestone vineyard that extends just beyond the band of Premiers Crus - delivers well beyond its status in the glass. It has a white peachy definition and that great Meursault structure - plenty of ripeness combined with the thrilling freshness of the year. It has more ample fruit than the Bourgogne with a voluminous, spicy, mineral length.

Ready: 2025 - 2032
Domaine Michel Lafarge
Critic Score
91/100
2023 Volnay, Michel Lafarge Dry | Red | Still | 13%

For many, Lafarge is Volnay. This is a blend of their lower-lying parcels of village Volnay, four of which lie on the Pommard side, and two on the Meursault side. This wine is always elegant and perfumed, with an expressive silky frame. In 2023 this is a seamless and beautiful wine offering notes of red and dark cherries, hints of fresh violets with a subtle spiced note on the finish.

Ready: 2026 - 2040
Critic Score
92.25/100
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans, Michel Lafarge
Cellar Circle Exclusive
Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This parcel, right in the centre of the village, has been owned by the Lafarge family since 2005. It has an ideal mid-slope position, and produces a floral wine with great tension and an intense fruit core: quintessential Volnay. A more ethereal feel this year with fine texture and a lift of wild strawberry and cherry blossom.

Young: 2027 - 2044

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Critic Score
93.5/100
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs, Michel Lafarge Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This tiny monopole vineyard is just 0.57 hectares, and along with the Clos des Chênes, is the jewel in the Lafarge crown. They have bottled it separately since 1985, and it has since become their most sought-after release. The grapes are destemmed by hand, such is the reverence in which the family hold this site: in their eyes, a Grand Cru. It has a texture that can only be described as lacy: so fine, so complex, intricate, and detailed. Intense purity and length to this wine, there is a seriousness and gravitas that shows through on the dark cherry fruit laced with a mineral accent. Extremely fine.

Young: 2027 - 2046
Domaine Paul Pillot
Critic Score
94/100
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, Domaine Paul Pillot Dry | White | Still | 13%

This vineyard is widely regarded as one of the finest in the village. The white pebbly limestone soils make for racy wines, sharing much in common with the best Puligny-Montrachets, but with the nutty, savoury twist of Chassagne. Old vines give it a richness and density setting it apart.

Young: 2027 - 2038
Domaine Violot-Guillemard
Critic Score
88/100
2023 Pommard En Brescul, Domaine Violot-Guillemard Dry | Red | Still | 14%

100% whole-bunch lifts this village Pommard up a notch or two. It’s such a fragrant and appetising style, mineral with lacy tannins and the best we’ve seen from Joannes since he took over in 2019. It is a great entry point for one of Pommard’s most promising new voices.

Ready: 2026 - 2035
Critic Score
89/100
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards, Domaine Violot-Guillemard Dry | Red | Still | 13.5%

When Joannes Violot-Guillemard turns his hand to Pommard, it’s with the same finesse and silky tension that he brings to the precise and perfumed character of his Pommards. Les Brouillards borders Pommard, and shows a little of the muscle and brawn of its neighbour, with a distinctly floral tone to the fruit. Refined, detailed and utterly delicious.

Ready: 2026 - 2038
2023 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches, Domaine Violot-Guillemard Dry | Red | Still | 14%

This is a wonderful site in Beaune, high up on the hill to the south of the town. Joannes cleverly uses the whole-bunch here, and the wine is aromatically spiced with strawberries and ginger. 60% of the wine is aged in ceramic tanks for the first time in 2023, adding an extra layer of freshness and precision to the fruit. The silky tannins contribute to a sensational length. This is really worth seeking out.

Ready: 2026 - 2038
Critic Score
91.5/100
2023 Pommard 1er Cru Les Petits Epenots, Domaine Violot-Guillemard Dry | Red | Still | 13%

The vines here have an average age of 70+ years and, along with Rugiens, enjoy one of the finest positions in the village. The soil on this side of the village, nearer to Beaune, is extremely complex, with a high mineral and limestone content towards the top of the slope. 100% whole-bunch, with 50% of the wine being aged in ceramic tanks for the first time in 2023, adding an extra layer of freshness and precision to the fruit. This makes for a more ethereal, delicate, precise and elegant expression of Pommard than perhaps we are used to. It will need a little time, but this is a diamond in the making.

Young: 2028 - 2039
Critic Score
91.5/100
2023 Pommard 1er Cru La Platière, Domaine Violot-Guillemard Dry | Red | Still | 13.5%

This south-facing parcel is tucked up the valley slope, so on the Beaune (i.e. north) side of the village, facing directly towards Volnay. It’s a cool site, thanks to the fresh breeze that is drawn down through the vines, but the white soil and south-facing exposure means it can heat up pretty quickly when the sun shines. It strikes a brilliant balance between ethereal juiciness and mineral bite.

Young: 2027 - 2039
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Critic Score
92/100
2022 Monthelie 1er Cru Les Duresses, Comtes Lafon Dry | Red | Still | 13%

Monthelie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. The Lafon example is one of its leading lights. Indeed, the red wines at Lafon have come on a great deal in recent years, and this is one of the most affordable entry points to the domaine. Juicy, crunchy, and elegant Côte de Beaune Pinot at its finest.

Ready: 2026 - 2036
Critic Score
94/100
2022 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu, Comtes Lafon Dry | Red | Still | 12.5%

The Lafons declassify the fruit of young vines grown in the 4-hectare plot into the village Volnay, meaning the 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu cuvée is the exclusive product of old vines. It is a complex red, with aromatic density, sour cherry freshness and a long, mineral finish, and for close followers of the domaine, one of the greatest wines in the cellar, whose reputation is more closely linked with its whites.

Young: 2027 - 2039
Critic Score
94/100
2022 Meursault 1er Cru Porusots, Comtes Lafon Dry | White | Still | 13%

The domaine only bought this parcel in 2011, and it still feels like a newcomer on their list, even though it’s been a decade of releases already. The clay soils of the vineyard make a wonderfully rich wine that never shows any heaviness. It is crystalline with great presence.

Young: 2027 - 2040
Justin Girardin
2023 Santenay Blanc Sous la Roche, Justin Girardin Dry | White | Still | 13%

This delicious white comes from a plot of limestone soil high up on the hill. It’s floral, mineral and zippy, with fantastic energy. This delivers the quality and complexity of a village wine for the price not far off others’ Bourgogne Blancs.

Ready: 2025 - 2031
2023 Santenay Vieilles Vignes, Justin Girardin Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This is a blend of multiple parcels of older vines (the average age is 55 years), which all share in common their mid-slope position. There is quite a lot of flat land and heavy clay at the bottom of Santenay which is less good, so this is an important distinction. These vines are all in the upper part of the village on limestone, and make for an expressive, vibrant, fresh, and distinctive red wine packed with cherry and damson notes. It shows good clarity, elegance, and a long, saline, peppery finish. Cracking value.

Ready: 2026 - 2032
Olivier Leflaive
2023 Saint-Romain, Olivier Leflaive Frères Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

Saint-Romain’s wines used to sit at the high-acid end of Burgundy. The elevation here gives the wines a coolness and austerity in cooler years. But in recent vintages, the appellation has come into its own, and now proves a source of deliciously fresh but poised wines, where other appellations are teetering into the overripe camp. This wine comes from various plots, including Sous le Château and En Poillange. It's a refreshing and crunchy white, with limestone minerality and a racy edge.

Ready: 2025 - 2030
2023 Meursault Les Vireuils, Olivier Leflaive Frères Dry | White | Still | 13.5%

Compared with the Olivier Leflaive wines of Puligny, this Meursault is weighted and structured, with satisfying depth and tension. It’s ample, without being cloying or heavy. The vineyard of Vireuils sits tucked up at the top of the hill, on the border with neighbouring Auxey-Duresses. Its cool hilltop position helps the wine retain a terrific mineral drive, and 50-year-old vines produce concentration and savoury length.

Ready: 2026 - 2033
2023 Montagny 1er Cru, Olivier Leflaive Frères, Côte Chalonnaise Half Dry | White | Still | 13%

Floral, precise, and energetic. This Montagny Premier Cru is a classic example of why the appellation is recognised as one of the top communes in the Côte Chalonnaise. This wine itself is a blend of various sites, and is vinified almost exclusively in oak, with just a fraction of it new. It has this tight, fruit-based minerality and a textural structure, with plump lemon pulp at its core.

Ready: 2025 - 2030
2023 Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles, Olivier Leflaive Frères Half Dry | White | Still | 13%

Les Sétilles is an outstanding Bourgogne Blanc, and one of the most popular wines on our list. Much of the fruit comes from around Puligny-Montrachet, blended with some from further afield, like the Hautes-Côtes, which brings welcome freshness and tension. Two-thirds of the wine is raised in oak, with just a touch (10%) new. It is precise, full of character, with a mineral bite and a lovely seam of acidity. It is great value for money.

Ready: 2025 - 2029
Critic Score
89.5/100
2023 Puligny-Montrachet, Olivier Leflaive Frères Dry | White | Still | 13%

You’d expect this wine to be one of the best in the stable: from home turf, made from a magnificent blend of 25 parcels from across the commune (seven of them the domaine’s own). It is one of the most complete and compelling portraits of the village you’ll find, and it’s a wine to remind you that these Olivier Leflaive wines are not only the most benchmark example of their appellations, but also some of the most exciting in their category. This is everything Puligny should be, and more: filigree, tight, nervous, and fabulously long.

Ready: 2026 - 2035
2023 Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles, Olivier Leflaive Frères Dry | White | Still | 13%

Les Sétilles is an outstanding Bourgogne Blanc, and one of the most popular wines on our list. Much of the fruit comes from around Puligny-Montrachet, blended with some from further afield, like the Hautes-Côtes, which brings welcome freshness and tension. Two-thirds of the wine is raised in oak, with just a touch (10%) new. It is precise, full of character, with a mineral bite and a lovely seam of acidity. It is great value for money.

Ready: 2025 - 2029
Patrick Javillier
Critic Score
89/100
2023 Bourgogne Blanc Côte d'Or Cuvée Oligocène, Patrick Javillier Dry | White | Still | 13%

This brilliant-value Bourgogne Blanc comes from limestone parcels scattered around the Puligny side of Meursault. This wine always delivers: in 2023 it’s brimming with fresh pear on the nose. On the palate, it’s so textured and long, and particularly persistent for a Bourgogne. It sees 25% new oak, which is relatively high for a Bourgogne, adding savoury definition - you get a lot of bang for your buck here. It is a great introduction to the Côte d’Or.

Ready: 2025 - 2030
Critic Score
92.5/100
2023 Meursault Tête de Murger, Patrick Javillier Dry | White | Still | 13%

Like Les Clousots, this is a blend of two sites in Meursault rather than a single lieu-dit. It is a combination of Les Casses Têtes and Les Murgers de Monthélie. This cuvée has been bottled since 1996, and is a foundation of the Javillier range. It is always the most direct and driven of the range. In 2023, there is an openness and particularly vibrant expression of Chardonnay on the striking finish. As ever, very elegant, mineral and refined.

Ready: 2026 - 2033
Critic Score
92/100
2023 Meursault Les Tillets, Patrick Javillier Dry | White | Still | 13%

This comes from the top of a limestone slope, which has very little topsoil, so the vines need to dig deep for sustenance. It’s pretty on the nose, with a subtle white blossom note. The palate is saline, with a hint of bitterness, recalling pink grapefruit. The length of the wine is carried on the shoulders of 30% new oak which gives it depth and grip. The vintage’s signature freshness is particularly vibrant in Les Tillets.

Ready: 2025 - 2031
Critic Score
95/100
2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Patrick Javillier Dry | White | Still | 13%

This is the jewel in the crown of this estate. The vines are on the Aloxe-Corton side of the hill, south-facing, with clay/limestone soil. It sees no new oak (instead, the small volume is vinified in one-year-old barrels), so it has a fresher style. It always has that classic Corton-Charlemagne smoky bacon nose, and a palate of profound and concentrated fruit. The freshness of the vintage works excellently here with the natural weight and power of the site.

Young: 2027 - 2036
Critic Score
91/100
2023 Meursault Les Clousots, Patrick Javillier Dry | White | Still | 13%

This is a blend of the hillside vineyard Les Clous, with a touch of Les Crotots, hence the blended name (nothing to do with the detective). Les Clous provides the body and drive, with Les Crotots, which sits just next to Premier Cru Poruzots, definition and zip. It is refined and floral in 2023, with additional juicy stone fruit in the mix. It shows beautiful weight and texture with impressive concentration of fruit and a mineral length.

Ready: 2025 - 2033