New Producers

Claudie’s father, in his days of running a plant nursery with access to a huge range of plant material, planted seven different clones of Pinot Noir in this 2.5 hectare site. Now at 45 years old, this diversity, twinned with the quality of vineyard husbandry, means the vineyard is thriving. The different clones call for pruning and harvesting at different times, but it’s an effort worth making, as the wine is texturally sophisticated, juicy, and full of Pinot nuance. So balanced and extremely drinkable.

This is found in the south-east of the appellation, near Mercurey. It has an amplitude of fruit that plays off so well against the pink grapefruit twist of bitterness, making this feel both satisfyingly weighted and deliciously fresh.

This south-east facing stony site, not far from the town of Chagny in the northeast of the appellation, is a brilliant example of what Claudie Jobard is up to. The wine is so bright and citrusy, with a fine saline thread of acidity running through the fruit.

Amongst a strong line up of premiers crus in David’s cellar, this was the stand-out. It comes from a parcel which has some very hard limestone bedrock, though the wine is marked by its surprising suppleness. It seems to be the most fluent expression of the village in 2020, without the straighter edge of some of the other premier crus, but rather a tenderness all of its own.

Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by premiers crus on well-draining soil. It is so red-fruited and floral - bursting with grenadine and red currant aromas - that you’d be forgiven for thinking it probably has a high proportion of whole bunch fruit. But, in fact, David says only 3-5% whole bunches went into the tank. The floral character is a natural expression of the site, and makes it a delicious introduction to the village for first-timers.

This is a blend of two parcels. Just over half (55%) comes from a village parcel, but the other 45% comes from the 1er Cru Clos Rousseau vineyard, which is an extension of the vineyard of the same name in Santenay. It is so bright and energetic, with a crunchy texture and well-handled tannins, giving it bite, but no hard edges. This is vibrant, red-fruited, light-bodied, crisp Pinot Noir. 15% whole bunch fruit gives it a sweet and lifted air.

This parcel in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, right next to Axelle’s cellar, sits at 450 metres altitude. The isolated parcel is naturally low yielding anyway, and, she says, naturally pruned by the local deer. As a result, it's an Aligoté with the yield of a grand cru, Axelle laments in jest. The vines are around 50 years old and around 10% of the vineyard is an old Burgundian variety, Melon de Bourgogne, more commonly found in Muscadet these days. The wine is energetic and delicious, brimming with apples and apricots, and a lacy, fine texture.

In Aux Allots we find the domaine’s oldest vines, though how old precisely is unknown. The family bought the vineyard which sits on the Vosne-Romaéee side of the village in 1969. It had been planted long before then, although the exact date has been lost to history. This wine has an enthralling depth of berry fruit, with a minty lift on the nose, and just a hint of licorice adding a further dimension. Textural and complex, this is an outstanding Nuits-St-Georges.

Fragile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure from this site. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, with some welcome Nuits-St-Georges structure giving it power and presence.

Whilst most of the vineyard is terrassed (and goes into the blend bearing that name), a small half hectare section is not, having been planted in 1984. It might be difficult to farm, and very hard work to harvest, but it’s well worth it for the wine it produces. It is rich in berry fruit, with a wonderful structure that sees a seamless marriage between fruit, body, tannin and acidity. There is so much purity and energy here. A crystalline snapshot of the more elegant side of Nuits.

This is a flagship wine of the domaine, and at two hectares represents around a third of production. It’s an incredibly steep site just above Les Vaucrains which had been abandoned since the phylloxera crisis until Bertrand terraced and planted it in 2001. There is slightly darker, fuller fruit than that found in the 2019, but with the brightness of acidity it feels balanced and very complete, unforced and charming.

What a Bourgogne Rouge this is. It comes from a parcel in Nuits-St-Georges, at the south end of the commune, not far from Les St Georges. The soils here are stony and poor, not as deep as some Bourgogne vineyards can be, and make a superbly balanced wine, sweetly fruited and with a wonderful fluidity.

A rare Vosne-Romanée from Axelle whose vineyards mostly lie in Nuits-St-Georges. As gorgeous as it is scarce, with deep velvety fruit and a long, refined finish.

This village wine has an inviting floral and gently spicy nose. It’s a blend of two parcels: the evocatively named Les Famines, whose paucity of soil makes the roots dig deep; and a small dash of a tiny premier cru, La Gigotte, which is nestled just beneath the larger and more renowned Mitans cru, and lifts this village wine up a notch. Grapes from both parcels were entirely destemmed, and the wine has a chewy, sapid, fruity, and accessible profile, with nicely grippy tannins. It’s a Volnay full of up front joy.

This cuvée is made in tiny volumes - only two and a half barrels in 2020. Its one third whole bunch adds a plush, pillowy texture that couches the structured backbone of this wine. This is a truly great expression of the village.

This has the detailed nose of sweet red berry fruit and floral lift we love in Volnay. The site’s generous top soil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay premiers crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a sumptuous, succulent texture on the palate. Cellar for a few years, then don’t hold back.

For many, this is the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines very much older. Their concentration and natural complexity are honed through one third whole bunch used in this cuvée. It is a precise and exquisite expression, whose delicate power should not be underestimated.

Like the Volnay Taillepieds, this is one of the smaller cuvées in the Buffet stable. It comes from the upper part of the vineyard, and is a stylish wine with a powerful, deep, and muscular drive. Its one-hundred-year-old vines are responsible for its dense layers of complexity. Unlike some of the Volnay premiers crus from this domaine, this wine will need some time, so tuck it away for a few years.

Le Charmois is on a hill just next to Chassagne-Montrachet’s 1er Cru Les Chaumées. Its cool, poor limestone soil makes for a tightly powerful wine with straight, chalky freshness. It has a glinting green colour in the glass, and so much tension on the palate. This will need a little time to unwind, but when it does, will reveal the superb savoury freshness of St-Aubin’s top sites. There is so much in store here.

The Bachelets have four parcels in this premier cru, the oldest of which were planted in 1927 and 1960. It carries the superb concentration of old-vine fruit, with juicy nectarine freshness. On the nose there is the scent of freshly cut spring flowers. The wine is harmonious and balanced, with depth and precision.

There are many who consider Bachelet’s Blanchot-Dessus on a par with its grand cru neighbours, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet and Le Montrachet. The vines were planted in 1927, and the old-vine wine is nothing short of epic in 2020.

Les Aubues is a parcel within Puligny’s excellent Enseignères, just below Bâtard-Montrachet. Les Enseignères has long been on the radar of collectors as one of the sweetest spots for any village wine on the whole Côte. The wine is, quite simply, scintillating. So fragrant, stony, zingy, and vibrant, but with a silkiness on the palate that marks it out. Truly wonderful.

These vines are around 60 years old and come from four parcels, which Maxime gives a very representative snapshot of the village. It has a beautiful nose, with a discreet violet aroma that opens slowly in the glass. The palate has a chalky length, and a really balanced juicy character. Utterly delicious.

This is a Vosne with some punch. It comes from some excellent sites across the village, including Aux Raviolles, La Croix Blanches and Les Hauts Beaux Monts. It has a note of blood orange and sour cherry, and a long, finely textured length with pleasing grip.

These vines were planted in 1947, and the wine they have made in 2020 is exquisitely svelte, with exceptionally fine tannins. There is a controlled power within. Absolutely glorious.

There can’t be many village parcels with a better position than this. Indeed, the bottom half of the vineyard is premier cru. The top half runs above Les Fuées and meets with Bonnes-Mares at its northern edge. This wine has so much drive and precision, and a lovely pink peppercorn lift on the nose. 50% whole bunch is expertly judged. The wine shows absolutely no stress at all from the heat of the year. This is classical Pinot Noir at its best.

This small monopole vineyard sits opposite the cellar, and it’s where the heart of the domaine lies. It’s amazing, but undeniable, that in a line up that contains some of Chambolle and Vosne’s finest sites, this was the highlight of the cellar. It is so complete and composed, with a sensationally long finish. Don’t miss this.

This superbly placed vineyard is on the Vosne-Romanée side of the village. It is towards the bottom of the slope with deeper soils than the premiers crus above it. The wine feels so beautifully smooth, with a lovely deep core of sweet fruit. Classic Burgundy through and through.

This vineyard between Chambolle Musigny and Gilly-lès-Citeaux is one of the best parcels of Bourgogne in the Côte de Nuits. Neighbour Ghislaine Barthod’s Bourgogne Rouge is another exceptional example of this vineyard. Maxime describes his Bons Bâtons in 2020 “like a ristretto”, where everything - acidity, fruit, tannin - is concentrated, giving this Bourgogne serious impact. But it’s also the wine’s purity and elegance that I find so attractive. This will be a go-to in your cellar if you get some.

High up on the hill overlooking the village, this is one of Vosne’s greatest premiers crus. In the hands of Maxime Rion, it is an absolute beauty. Dense but supple, with a velvet structure. Vosne at its best.

This is the combination of three parcels in the south of the appellation from one lieu-dit. The vines are now over 75 years old on average, and the wine they make is one of the most juicy and delicious reds you can find at this level. It has a well-balanced body, and a long, fine finish.

This premier cru, in the south of the appellation, is a south-facing sun-trap. It was the first to be picked in 2020, and Vincent has captured the voluminous ripeness and agile freshness of the vintage perfectly. Its character is not unlike a Volnay - red-fruited, with tender fruit core, lacy freshness, and just enough structure to mean it will age brilliantly, but can be enjoyed fairly young too.

Clos du Roy is one of the finest sites in Mercurey. The 2020 shows wonderful freshness, which is derived from both acidity and minerality. There is so much fruit here, wrapping around some silky tannins. It feels concentrated, almost dense, but so fresh, and subsequently, displaying great fluidity and appeal.

This south facing parcel is tucked up the valley slope, so on the Beaune (i.e. north) side of the village, facing directly towards Volnay. It’s a cool site, thanks to the fresh breeze that is drawn down through the vines, but the white soil and south-facing exposure means it can heat up pretty quickly when the sun shines. Joannes has used 100% whole bunch fruit in the vinification here, and from it he has conjured a remarkably sweet length, and a fabulous elegance, without any heavy-handedness whatsoever. This was a diamond.

This is a wonderful site in Beaune, high up on the hill to the south of the town. The 100% whole bunch works extremely well here, making for a salty, charming wine with depth and length, and a hint of sucrosity at the end - not from any residual sugar in the wine, but from the beautiful sweetness of fruit.

This magnificent vineyard in Pommard is a hot contender for promotion to grand cru. The wine shows a nicely spicy hint of reduction, and the tannins build in layers. Unlike some Rugiens, which can need the best part of a decade to even approach their drinking window, this should, thanks to the graceful structure of its tannins (again from 100% whole bunch fruit) be relatively accessible from five years onwards.

The vines here have an average age of 70 years and enjoy one of the finest positions in the village, along with Rugiens. The soil on this side of the village, nearer to Beaune, is extremely complex, with a high mineral and limestone content towards the top of the slope. This makes for a more ethereal, delicate, and elegant expression of Pommard than perhaps we are used to, and Joannes has managed to extract the most perfumed, supple tannins in this 2020 from 100% whole bunch fruit. Really excellent.

This is a blend of multiple parcels of older vines (the average age is 55 years), which all share in common their mid-slope position. There is quite a lot of flat land and heavy clay at the bottom of Santenay which is less good, so this is an important distinction. These vines are all in the upper part of the village on limestone, and make for an aromatic, vibrant, fresh, and distinctive red wine packed with black cherry and damson notes. It is full and fruity without being heavy or hard work.

Beauregard is one of Santenay’s finest premiers crus, lying at the eastern end of the village, near the border with Chassagne. It’s a particularly picturesque site, with a windmill in the vineyard - a good indication there is a steady breeze here, helping to keep the fruit cool as it matures. The limestone soil gives the wine a freshness and acidity that make it hugely appealing in its youth. Where the Vieilles Vignes is all about black fruits, this is scented with red berries: cranberries and red currants. Its tannin structure is particularly fine-grained, and its finish is long and graceful.