2020 Côte de Nuits

This monopole vineyard spans over seven hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. It has a dark, swirling concentration of blackberries and spice. The tannins in this young wine are firm, and built for the long haul. Rich and powerful, long and tense.

This cuvée first appeared in 2015. It is made from the young(er) vines of the Clos de l’Arlot that had once been labelled ‘Petit Arlot’. It consistently proves its worth as a separate bottling with every new vintage: in 2020, whisper it, it might even steal the show. It is so intense, but with a crunchy purity and red fruit drive, a sophisticated aromatic profile, silky tannins, and a long elegant finish. Everything is in perfect balance.

The domaine purchased this plot of Vosne premier cru in the 1990s, and since then has been making this superb cuvée. Creamy, dark cassis fruit, and briary notes announce a serious Suchots. One third whole bunch helps the palate stay agile and fresh. It has a touch of licorice spice on the finish. Impressive.

This is one of few prestigious whites of the Côte de Nuits, and comes from one of the estate’s two monopole vineyards. Clos de l’Arlot is the steep, walled, amphitheatre vineyard just next to the cellars. The 2020 shows an intensity of fruit, wrapped around by some gorgeous toasty notes. It is rich, but with zingy freshness. I can’t think of a better Clos de l’Arlot Blanc from any previous vintage.

This cuvée uses the fruit from the younger vines in the Clos de l’Arlot premier cru, found at the southern side of the vineyard. This is easily one of the best vintages for the white wines at Arlot. La Gerbotte has a fabulous nose of ripe lemon and chalky freshness, with some light, floral perfume.

Like the Suchots, this was another canny purchase that the domaine made in the 1990s, and marks a high point in the cellar. There is a serious amount of wine here, ably supported by some generous oak that will integrate within a few years. This is a grand cru to be reckoned with. Such density! It has a luxuriously amplified volume and concentration.