2020 Côte de Nuits

Bruno Clair has an impressive 10 hectares in his home village of Marsannay. He bottles five separate cuvées, including this wonderful iteration from a single parcel at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its name (meaning “fat heads”) refers not to anybody involved in its cultivation, but rather the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2020 it is muscular and athletic, reminding me of Gevrey-Chambertin. It can often be difficult to taste so young, but its powdery tannins and fleshy, energetic red-fruit freshness make this 2020 feel accessible already, though with the structure to age. Like the 2019, this is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, between the grand cru slope and the Combe de Lavaux. It experienced lots of millerandages in 2020 (small berries) and the wine has an incredible concentration expressed with exquisite finesse. This is absolutely delicious, with red-fruit power and mineral length. Clos du Fonteny is always one of Bruno’s personal favourites.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. Arthur uses up to 30% whole bunch on the young vine parcel, which he vinifies separately from the older vines, blending later to build layers of complexity. It has a summer hedgerow aroma - blackberries and wild strawberries - with tightly-wound tannins giving the palate a nervous energy. Truly excellent.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard as equal to the Gevrey grands crus. The Clairs refer to it as ‘the Prince of Gevrey’. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. This wine shows so much power and suave elegance on the palate. Its cool, controlled nose suggests the moderating influence from the valley breeze. You cannot imagine this wine was made in a warm vintage when you taste it. It has so much exhilarating tension and freshness. Profoundly refined and elegant.

What a wine this is in 2020. Clos de Bèze is a slightly steeper and warmer site than Chambertin, and the potential heights of complexity and concentration it can produce are remarkable. It has hit the bullseye in 2020. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s, which are affectionately still referred to as the young plants. The old vines produce a wine that is so perfumed on the nose and gourmand on the palate. It has an almost endless finish, with fabulously svelte tannins.

Bruno Clair’s is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest falls within Chambolle-Musigny’s borders). It also happens to be one of the grand cru’s consistently finest examples. The 2020 shows an irresistible combination of black and red fruits. The tannins at first feel firm, almost austere. But with a little air they begin to mollify. There is an unbelievable length here. In the short time of tasting it shows so many facets, which suggests this will enjoy one of the most exciting evolutions in bottle of any 2020 we tasted.