This stretch, between Nuits St Georges and Dijon, is home to the greatest Pinot Noirs in the world. The 2020s have a combined richness and freshness that set them apart, and promise excellent ageing potential.
Fixin doesn’t have any grand crus, but in Amélie’s eyes, this is a pretty close estimation. It has very shallow soils, and the vines, now aged 30-80 years old, dig deep. 60% whole bunch (higher than usual) brings a floral, spiced fruit. This is an incredibly successful 2020.
Releasing Spring/Summer 2022
In Aux Allots we find the domaine’s oldest vines, though how old precisely is unknown. The family bought the vineyard which sits on the Vosne-Romaéee side of the village in 1969. It had been planted long before then, although the exact date has been lost to history. This wine has an enthralling depth of berry fruit, with a minty lift on the nose, and just a hint of licorice adding a further dimension. Textural and complex, this is an outstanding Nuits-St-Georges.
This is a flagship wine of the domaine, and at two hectares represents around a third of production. It’s an incredibly steep site just above Les Vaucrains which had been abandoned since the phylloxera crisis until Bertrand terraced and planted it in 2001. There is slightly darker, fuller fruit than that found in the 2019, but with the brightness of acidity it feels balanced and very complete, unforced and charming.
Bruno Clair has an impressive 10 hectares in his home village of Marsannay. He bottles five separate cuvées, including this wonderful iteration from a single parcel at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its name (meaning “fat heads”) refers not to anybody involved in its cultivation, but rather the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2020 it is muscular and athletic, reminding me of Gevrey-Chambertin. It can often be difficult to taste so young, but its powdery tannins and fleshy, energetic red-fruit freshness make this 2020 feel accessible already, though with the structure to age. Like the 2019, this is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair.
This wine is exclusive to Lay & Wheeler in the UK. It is a steep site that sits right up against Aux Boudots on the Vosne side of the appellation. It has the finesse of Vosne and the power of Nuits - a pretty appealing combination. Some of the very old vines were recently replaced, so the production of this site is strictly limited at the moment.
This is one of the most exciting Hautes-Côtes de Nuits out there. It comes from a parcel in Concoeur-et-Courboin, on the hills just above Vosne. It has prickly red fruit, and light and fragrant body, with delicate but peppery tannins giving it agile length.
This might just be the best village Vosne out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy structure. It is powerful and beautiful with silky tannins, and fresh high-acid fruit.
This comes from just one parcel in Vosne-Romanée, planted in 1955. The wines are yielding such low volumes that the domaine is in the process of replanting, uprooting one quarter of the parcel at a time. The yield in 2020, like 2019, was just 20 hl/ha, and the result is a staggeringly concentrated Bourgogne Rouge. It has a sweet density and deep, structured fruit, with profound persistence for a Bourgogne. It will easily age for a decade, which is not something you can say of every Bourgogne.
Late Release
This has a dark cherry fruit core, with a density and structure that should ensure a long drinking window for this village wine. The tannins are expertly knit together.
Maxime has made an outstanding Boudots in 2019. It feels more Vosne than Nuits with its dark cherry and raspberry density. Sensational structure.
Gevrey provides the structure and savoury stature, Maxime provides the silky texture and long, poised finish.
You won’t find much better than this at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and nuance, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her premiers crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins. It comes from nine plots across the village, and shows such a wonderful definition in 2020.
This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny in Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, called Les Bons Bâtons. It is so red-fruited, with fragrant length, and lacy tannins. It feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne. Considerable ageing potential.
Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. When tasting, Etienne mentioned that Henri Jayer made him promise to never, ever rip out these vines. He has since kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. It’s a more slender wine than the 2019, and is focused and vibrant with lively red fruits.
Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath 1er Cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and it’s quite a step up on your regular village cuvée. This 2020 shows clarity, energy and density. What a wonderful wine this vintage. Excellent grip and length.
This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits-Village wine is a firm Lay & Wheeler favourite. In 2020 it has a pretty frame, built around fragrant, peppery red fruit. The palate has a straight and incisive mineral line, giving it wonderful freshness. This outplays many wines from grander communes every year, and 2020 is no exception.
This comes from two sites in Vosne, one bordering Suchots (Hautes Maizières) and the other Clos Vougeot (Les Violettes). It has a fresh, bright drive, with a silky fluidity to the cherry fruit palate. Voluminous and sophisticated, and every inch of its prestigious communes.
This large seven hectare vineyard in the hills above Nuits-St-Georges has wonderful limestone soils, quite similar to those found on the hill of Corton, though with a much fresher climate, thanks to its elevation. The vines were planted in the 1970s and 1980s, and at full maturity are producing great concentration, and some interesting and complex layers in the wine. It is expressive, with vibrant acidity and some tannin oomph so sustain a long finish.
There can’t be many village parcels with a better position than this. Indeed, the bottom half of the vineyard is premier cru. The top half runs above Les Fuées and meets with Bonnes-Mares at its northern edge. This wine has so much drive and precision, and a lovely pink peppercorn lift on the nose. 50% whole bunch is expertly judged. The wine shows absolutely no stress at all from the heat of the year. This is classical Pinot Noir at its best.
This is a Vosne with some punch. It comes from some excellent sites across the village, including Aux Raviolles, La Croix Blanches and Les Hauts Beaux Monts. It has a note of blood orange and sour cherry, and a long, finely textured length with pleasing grip.
This superbly placed vineyard is on the Vosne-Romanée side of the village. It is towards the bottom of the slope with deeper soils than the premiers crus above it. The wine feels so beautifully smooth, with a lovely deep core of sweet fruit. Classic Burgundy through and through.
These vines are around 60 years old and come from four parcels, which Maxime gives a very representative snapshot of the village. It has a beautiful nose, with a discreet violet aroma that opens slowly in the glass. The palate has a chalky length, and a really balanced juicy character. Utterly delicious.
This vineyard is in the hills above Vosne, and enjoys a cooler microclimate thanks to its 437m elevation. There is a tiny bit of Pinot Blanc grown amongst Chardonnay here. The wine has a gorgeous lemon verbena zingy freshness, citrusy and lightly grassy, with a chalky palate.
This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: multiple parcels scattered around the village which are vinified in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the grands crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 45 and 85 years, and the concentration and complexity this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It is a serious wine in 2020, with excellent depth of flavour and a distinctly dry, savoury finish.
Another new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2019. The 2020 feels slightly richer than the Chaumes, with some decadent berry depth and complex, weighted length.
Cherries and raspberries on the nose, some toasty warmth from a little new oak, and 2020’s ripe structure of fresh acidity.
This is the first vintage for this new white cuvée in Sébastien Cathiard’s cellar. Chalky and refreshing.
One of three new additions to the Cathiard cellar in 2019, along with two Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. This comes from a single parcel in Gevrey, Champ Franc. Spicy, grippy, and sophisticated in 2020.
This comes from a parcel between Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée, and contains 40% Gamay and 60% Pinot Noir. It is full of sweet spice and berry fruits with a lovely long finish.
A new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2019. The vineyards Sébastien has taken on he says are in excellent condition, and now farmed along organic lines. This is a blend of several parcels with vines aged between 10 and 70 years. It is floral, bright, saline and charming.
This comes from five parcels in four different sites, and combined they make a spicy, fragrant, and incredibly long Vosne. It abounds with red berries and the scent of peonies.
This is drawn from a couple of parcels on the south side of the commune towards Fixin and Gevrey-Chambertin. Its fruit profile is quite nervous, with an edge of cranberry and pomegranate, and some brambly, structural tannins giving it the slightly wild edge you often find in Marsannay. Lots of cracked pepper on the nose. It has body and impact.
Most of the fruit comes from the Côte de Nuits, with the majority from around Nuits itself, with the balance from the Côte de Beaune. 20% whole bunch and no new oak is the perfect combination here to let the fruit sing. It is a fresh and crunchy style of bourgogne, with enough bite to give it a vibrant length. It should drink well from a young age. And it’s an absolute bargain.
This cuvée is the main reason we started buying the wines from Marchand-Tawse. It is a winner every year. A generous, but well-judged, 60% whole bunch gives it a transparent purity, and the wine displays a tender and delicious blackcurrant fruit pastel core. The vineyard sits just below Clos St Denis, in the heart of the village, and offers up a deep and rich expression of the village. What a pity it is made in such tiny quantities.
This comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It is so precise and lengthy, with a vibrant cherry red fruit that seems to go far beyond what a village usually delivers. It’s one of Mark’s favourites in the cellar, and we can see why. A small, well-judged amount of whole bunch adds just a hint of lift. It is a resounding success in 2020.
Nicolas sees these vineyards, around Corgoloin just south of Nuits St Georges, as the future of his domaine. Land prices here aren’t impossibly high, yet the quality of terroir is terrific. It means he can make this enormously characterful and interesting wine for an outstanding price. The 2020 has deep, dark, black cherry and damson character, both richly ripe and with a little sour kick of the vintage’s fresh acidity. Satisfyingly firm.
This cuvée first appeared in 2015. It is made from the young(er) vines of the Clos de l’Arlot that had once been labelled ‘Petit Arlot’. It consistently proves its worth as a separate bottling with every new vintage: in 2020, whisper it, it might even steal the show. It is so intense, but with a crunchy purity and red fruit drive, a sophisticated aromatic profile, silky tannins, and a long elegant finish. Everything is in perfect balance.
This is one of few prestigious whites of the Côte de Nuits, and comes from one of the estate’s two monopole vineyards. Clos de l’Arlot is the steep, walled, amphitheatre vineyard just next to the cellars. The 2020 shows an intensity of fruit, wrapped around by some gorgeous toasty notes. It is rich, but with zingy freshness. I can’t think of a better Clos de l’Arlot Blanc from any previous vintage.
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