2020 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, 4 of which are now actually premiers crus but produced in too small volumes to be bottled separately. This all makes for a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half the parcels are on Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest on limestone and sandy schist soils. 75% of the wine is aged in oak, with 10% of that new oak. The wine has a classic white peach aroma, with a smooth, silky body, and vibrant freshness. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year.

In spite of a decent sized harvest in 2020 in the region, because of the extremely small vintages either side of it, this wine’s astonishing value and huge popularity mean that only a small amount of the 2020 will be released en primeur, so you’ll need to move quickly to secure some. It comes from three parcels, two of which come from the limestone soils near the distinctive Solutré rock, and the third from a richer clay site near Pouilly. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has great freshness and lovely balance in 2020.

After many years, Pouilly-Fuissé has finally been recognised with premiers crus. Château de Fuissé are delighted and proud that their superb monopole vineyard that sits just next to the historic château has been recognised with this classification. It is a 2.7 hectare vineyard, home to many old vines, some of which were planted as far back as 1929. Indeed, the youngest vines you’ll find here are from 1984. This is a truly great outing for Le Clos, and a fittingly brilliant rendition for its premier cru debut. Thoroughly well deserved.

This is found in the south-east of the appellation, near Mercurey. It has an amplitude of fruit that plays off so well against the pink grapefruit twist of bitterness, making this feel both satisfyingly weighted and deliciously fresh.

This south-east facing stony site, not far from the town of Chagny in the northeast of the appellation, is a brilliant example of what Claudie Jobard is up to. The wine is so bright and citrusy, with a fine saline thread of acidity running through the fruit.

Claudie’s father, in his days of running a plant nursery with access to a huge range of plant material, planted seven different clones of Pinot Noir in this 2.5 hectare site. Now at 45 years old, this diversity, twinned with the quality of vineyard husbandry, means the vineyard is thriving. The different clones call for pruning and harvesting at different times, but it’s an effort worth making, as the wine is texturally sophisticated, juicy, and full of Pinot nuance. So balanced and extremely drinkable.

This wine from the Côte Chalonnaise is one of the bargains of Burgundy. It performs every year, and offers excellent value. The 2020 is so juicy, The acidity of the vintage serves it well. This is textured, berry-fruited, with crunchy freshness and a bright, satisfying finish.

This parcel of young vines (around 15 years old) lies right next to Marcel’s house. He says it’s a wine to open and enjoy young. Given what good value it is you certainly can get stuck in. It has a bright and fruity character, with the vintage’s wonderful natural freshness.

Marcel believes this is his best vineyard. It has limestone marl soils and makes a wine with silky ripeness and plenty of freshness. Blind, it could easily come from its grander and more expensive neighbour, Pouilly-Fuissé. In 2020 it has a delicious grapefruit bitterness on the finish, making it mineral and mouthwatering.

This comes from three parcels, across which there is a high proportion of old vines. This is such an enjoyable wine: it has ripeness and personality in spades, with a razor-sharp line of acidity slicing through to a long finish.

This is the combination of three parcels in the south of the appellation from one lieu-dit. The vines are now over 75 years old on average, and the wine they make is one of the most juicy and delicious reds you can find at this level. It has a well-balanced body, and a long, fine finish.

This premier cru, in the south of the appellation, is a south-facing sun-trap. It was the first to be picked in 2020, and Vincent has captured the voluminous ripeness and agile freshness of the vintage perfectly. Its character is not unlike a Volnay - red-fruited, with tender fruit core, lacy freshness, and just enough structure to mean it will age brilliantly, but can be enjoyed fairly young too.

Clos du Roy is one of the finest sites in Mercurey. The 2020 shows wonderful freshness, which is derived from both acidity and minerality. There is so much fruit here, wrapping around some silky tannins. It feels concentrated, almost dense, but so fresh, and subsequently, displaying great fluidity and appeal.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.

This is the village where you’ll find the cellar, and it makes what we think of as the most classic example from the domaine. The wine is always so fruity, juicy, and bright, and 2020 is no exception. It has a good volume on the palate too, thanks to the concentration of the fruit which comes from high-altitude parcels.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique would put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say: crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or.

Many parcels are blended into this brilliant wine, all from the Viré side of the appellation. The old vines thrive in the village’s clay-rich topsoil over limestone subsoil. The wines from this side of the appellation tend to be straighter and tighter than the more generous and rounded Clessé side. In 2020 it is wonderfully restrained. There’s nothing showy or flamboyant here; it’s all class, as seen on its long, refined finish.

Dominique owns 2 hectares in Saint-Véran. It’s one of his more recent purchases, with two parcels picked up in 2014 and 2016. In 2020, these sites have made a powerful example of the appellation, with some waxy yellow fruit notes on the nose and a deliciously textured palate and a lemon oil weight. It balances richness with freshness in style, and shows this cuvée is back with a bang after a difficult 2019 where frost wiped out over half the production.

This wine was not produced in 2019, due to the harsh spring frost that decimated production. But it has bounced back in 2020. The vines lie near Saint-Véran, and they tend to ripen early. The wine is perfumed and charming: white blossom, crisp apple, and just a touch of cream. Uncomplicated but delightful.

This 2-hectare plot lies in the north of the region, and typically produces a wine with gentler acidity than the domaine’s others. Nevertheless, it is always one of the most balanced, and one of the freshest feeling. This freshness is derived from the minerality of fruit, grown on the marl soils of Uchizy. It wraps around the perfumed fruit and makes for an impeccably balanced wine.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.

Clos des Four is a particularly stony site, and it produces naturally low yields, which results in a wine with intense concentration and fleshy depth. The 2020 is bursting with peaches and pears, with a nicely exotic hint and a long refreshing finish. It’s a highlight in 2020.

This is the village where you’ll find the cellar, and it makes what we think of as the most classic example from the domaine. The wine is always so fruity, juicy, and bright, and 2020 is no exception. It has a good volume on the palate too, thanks to the concentration of the fruit which comes from high-altitude parcels.

In the south of the Mâconnais, near the cellar, is this tiny south-facing plot. Its red clay soils and steep incline make wine with a heady concentration. The plot is so small (less than a quarter of a hectare) it only makes enough for one foudre, but Dominique and Caroline insist it merits being bottled on its own rather than blended into a larger cuvée because it is, simply, that good every year. 2020 shows the wine’s typical tension and very slight bitterness – it is straight, serious, savoury, less fruity and open than some others, and more demanding of attention by the drinker. It’s what Dominique calls the Genevrières of the Mâconnais.