2020 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.

This is the village where you’ll find the cellar, and it makes what we think of as the most classic example from the domaine. The wine is always so fruity, juicy, and bright, and 2020 is no exception. It has a good volume on the palate too, thanks to the concentration of the fruit which comes from high-altitude parcels.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique would put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say: crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or.

Many parcels are blended into this brilliant wine, all from the Viré side of the appellation. The old vines thrive in the village’s clay-rich topsoil over limestone subsoil. The wines from this side of the appellation tend to be straighter and tighter than the more generous and rounded Clessé side. In 2020 it is wonderfully restrained. There’s nothing showy or flamboyant here; it’s all class, as seen on its long, refined finish.