2020 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

In spite of a decent sized harvest in 2020 in the region, because of the extremely small vintages either side of it, this wine’s astonishing value and huge popularity mean that only a small amount of the 2020 will be released en primeur, so you’ll need to move quickly to secure some. It comes from three parcels, two of which come from the limestone soils near the distinctive Solutré rock, and the third from a richer clay site near Pouilly. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has great freshness and lovely balance in 2020.

After many years, Pouilly-Fuissé has finally been recognised with premiers crus. Château de Fuissé are delighted and proud that their superb monopole vineyard that sits just next to the historic château has been recognised with this classification. It is a 2.7 hectare vineyard, home to many old vines, some of which were planted as far back as 1929. Indeed, the youngest vines you’ll find here are from 1984. This is a truly great outing for Le Clos, and a fittingly brilliant rendition for its premier cru debut. Thoroughly well deserved.

This premier cru, in the south of the appellation, is a south-facing sun-trap. It was the first to be picked in 2020, and Vincent has captured the voluminous ripeness and agile freshness of the vintage perfectly. Its character is not unlike a Volnay - red-fruited, with tender fruit core, lacy freshness, and just enough structure to mean it will age brilliantly, but can be enjoyed fairly young too.

Clos du Roy is one of the finest sites in Mercurey. The 2020 shows wonderful freshness, which is derived from both acidity and minerality. There is so much fruit here, wrapping around some silky tannins. It feels concentrated, almost dense, but so fresh, and subsequently, displaying great fluidity and appeal.

This is the combination of three parcels in the south of the appellation from one lieu-dit. The vines are now over 75 years old on average, and the wine they make is one of the most juicy and delicious reds you can find at this level. It has a well-balanced body, and a long, fine finish.

This wine was not produced in 2019, due to the harsh spring frost that decimated production. But it has bounced back in 2020. The vines lie near Saint-Véran, and they tend to ripen early. The wine is perfumed and charming: white blossom, crisp apple, and just a touch of cream. Uncomplicated but delightful.

This 2-hectare plot lies in the north of the region, and typically produces a wine with gentler acidity than the domaine’s others. Nevertheless, it is always one of the most balanced, and one of the freshest feeling. This freshness is derived from the minerality of fruit, grown on the marl soils of Uchizy. It wraps around the perfumed fruit and makes for an impeccably balanced wine.

This is the village where you’ll find the cellar, and it makes what we think of as the most classic example from the domaine. The wine is always so fruity, juicy, and bright, and 2020 is no exception. It has a good volume on the palate too, thanks to the concentration of the fruit which comes from high-altitude parcels.

In the south of the Mâconnais, near the cellar, is this tiny south-facing plot. Its red clay soils and steep incline make wine with a heady concentration. The plot is so small (less than a quarter of a hectare) it only makes enough for one foudre, but Dominique and Caroline insist it merits being bottled on its own rather than blended into a larger cuvée because it is, simply, that good every year. 2020 shows the wine’s typical tension and very slight bitterness – it is straight, serious, savoury, less fruity and open than some others, and more demanding of attention by the drinker. It’s what Dominique calls the Genevrières of the Mâconnais.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique would put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say: crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or.

Many parcels are blended into this brilliant wine, all from the Viré side of the appellation. The old vines thrive in the village’s clay-rich topsoil over limestone subsoil. The wines from this side of the appellation tend to be straighter and tighter than the more generous and rounded Clessé side. In 2020 it is wonderfully restrained. There’s nothing showy or flamboyant here; it’s all class, as seen on its long, refined finish.