Côte de Nuits 2022

This is an exceptionally pretty Chambolle-Musigny, offering up wild strawberry and blueberry notes. If you like the sweet aromatic fruit of 100% whole-bunch winemaking, this is the wine you’re looking for. Fine, silky tannins are extremely well-expressed on the poised finish.

Hautes-Côtes de Nuits might be the most humble appellation in Aurélien’s portfolio, but this wine is also his flagship, and we think, one of his best. It offers outstanding value for money. It smells like a basket of freshly picked wild strawberries, with a light dusting of cinnamon sugar. The whole-bunch vinification is an excellent match for the terroir, whose cool freshness gives the wine structure. This will drink well from early on.

Cyprien makes two Bourgognes, and this is the one that comes from the domaine’s single parcel which lies just beyond the village boundary of Gevrey Chambertin, but a stone’s throw from the village’s grands crus. It is a fairly serious Bourgogne, with an expressive, chewy core to it, offering up the density of Gevrey, with the open fruit to drink well from early on.

This comes from various parcels the domaine owns around the village, mostly located on the Morey side of the village. It shows a certain austerity, mingled with Chambolle’s signature texture: silky, dense, and refined.

This is one of the parcels that Cyprien and his team farm organically all year round and harvest themselves, under the négociant label. It is an excellent village lieu-dit at the southern end of Vosne, which a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It shows lots of energy and power, with a bright length, with plenty in reserve.

This vineyard is at the north end of the village, on the border with grand cru, Mazoyères-Chambertin. The soils are high in limestone, and produce a wine that is rich in dark wild berries and clove spice, with a lean and persistent freshness.

Bonnes Mares is a magnificent vineyard, and makes a compelling and beautiful wine in 2022 in Cyprien Arlaud’s hands. It’s got power and drive, also control and depth. This should age wonderfully well.

This is a clear stand-out in the Arlaud cellar. It’s the most dramatic wine in the line up, outpacing the other grand cru with its grip and swagger. A truly great Clos de la Roche.

This comes from the very highest point of Mazoyères-Chambertin, which can also be labelled as Charmes-Chambertin. It has sensational volume with a crystalline purity driving through the finish.

This vineyard sits just below Clos St Denis, in the heart of the village, and offers up a deep and textured expression of Morey St Denis. It is delicate, with creamy red fruit leading the wine. WHile not particularly intense, it offers up a balanced length of great distinction. With some time in bottle to take on a little more weight and precision, and this could be the dark horse of the stable.

This always delivers huge complexity from the start. It is so deep, and with such a sustained finish you’ll be thinking about it long after tasting.

This can often have the broadest shoulders of the Rousseau grands crus, and is certainly one that requires some serious ageing.

Rousseau’s Gevrey might be their least grand cuvée, but it remains nevertheless one of the most sought-after wines, and a window onto their supreme style which can be drunk a little earlier than their premiers and grands crus.

Voluminous and with profound length, this is an exquisite wine from the Rousseau cellar, with layers that build up in a subtle but melodic crescendo.

Lavaux St Jacques is a lovely vineyard on the Combe de Lavaux which enjoys the cooling influence of the cold air drawn down the valley. The wine is chiselled and precise.

The Ruchottes always abounds with small red berry fruit, making it a lively and vibrant grand cru. It nevertheless has the gravitas of its grand cru status, and will evolved for many years in bottle.

Only five domaines own Clos St Jacques, and Rousseau’s wine is frequently the pinnacle. This shows the complexity, suave power, and finesse of a grand cru, with incredible freshness.

2022 is the first proper vintage of Fixin Blanc at Amélie’s domaine. It comes from young vines, and has made a deliciously quenching and refreshing wine. Up-front, pithy, and delicious.

With Richebourg and Cros Parantoux as neighbours, you can expect great things from this vineyard. Amélie has five separate plots across half a hectare (although she gives some of the production back to her aunt, so there is never ever enough to meet demand). The site is so steep and inaccessible that no tractors can reach it, and all work is done by horse or hand. The 2022 has 50% whole-bunch, which helps give the already exceptionally concentrated fruit some lift and flow. She’s worked hard on this cuvée, which could tend towards reduction. Switching to concrete tanks for fermentation has helped, and the potential of quality here is already easy to see tasting from barrel. So persistent, with Vosne’s powerful, velvet-like tannins.

Fixin doesn’t have any grand crus, but in Amélie’s eyes, this is the greatest site in the village. It has very shallow soils, and the vines, now aged 30-80 years old, dig deep. 50% whole-bunch brings a floral, spiced fruit. Defined, characterful, and the work of a winemaker at the top of her game.

If Les Crais is her father’s cuvée, then this is Amélie’s. It used to go into their village blend, but Amélie has been bottling it separately since 2013. The vines are now over 70 years old, and its mid-slope position near the premiers crus is excellent. A bold 50% whole-bunch here is executed with deft skill: the wine is fragrant and dancing, with agile freshness and sweet energy.

Les Crais is a flagship wine at Amélie’s estate, having been bottled separately from the other village parcels since her father’s tenure. The one-hectare vineyard sits right in the heart of the appellation, just below the village itself. Its alluvial soils are well-draining, and the parcel is always one of the first picked. In 2022 Amélie has captured the bright fruit purity of the vintage in a wine whose fragrant scent is bursting with strawberries and spice. 30% whole-bunch gives it lift and zip. This is Fixin at its best.

This parcel in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, right next to Axelle’s cellar, sits at 450 metres altitude. The isolated parcel is naturally low yielding anyway, and, she says, naturally pruned by the local deer. As a result, it's an Aligoté with the yield of a grand cru, Axelle laments in jest. The vines are around 50 years old and around 10% of the vineyard is an old Burgundian variety, Melon de Bourgogne, more commonly found in Muscadet these days. The wine is energetic and delicious, brimming with apples and apricots, and a lacy, fine texture.

In Aux Allots we find the domaine’s oldest vines, though how old precisely is unknown. The family bought the vineyard which sits on the Vosne-Romaéee side of the village in 1969. It had been planted long before then, although the exact date has been lost to history. This wine has an enthralling depth of berry fruit, with a minty lift on the nose, and just a hint of licorice adding a further dimension. Textural and complex, this is an outstanding Nuits-St-Georges.

Fragile old vines planted in 1964 produce a wine of surprising structure from this site. The concentration of fruit, the frame of tannins, and the long drive on the back-palate are perhaps more in line with the traditional image of Nuits-St-Georges than Axelle’s Vallerots cuvées. This quintessential Nuits cuvée has superb length, with some welcome Nuits-St-Georges structure giving it power and presence.

This is a flagship wine of the domaine, and at two hectares represents around a third of production. It’s an incredibly steep site just above Les Vaucrains which had been abandoned since the phylloxera crisis until Bertrand terraced and planted it in 2001. There is slightly darker, fuller fruit than that found in the 2019, but with the brightness of acidity it feels balanced and very complete, unforced and charming.

The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The 2022 has a fragrant and salty dynamism. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a top contender for promotion to premier cru status.

The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The 2022 has a fragrant and salty dynamism. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a top contender for promotion to premier cru status.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes Mares, and the Clair parcel is an extension of their lauded Bonnes Mares plot. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru, really. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has abundant blackberry and wild strawberry aromas, tightly-wound tannins, and a fragrant energy.

This is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part of the vineyard to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest is in Chambolle-Musigny). It is muscular, yet tender, with a deep and concentrated core. There is an unbelievable length on display here, with a finish that fans out across the palate.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard as equal to the Gevrey grands crus. The Clairs refer to it as ‘the Prince of Gevrey’. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. A dramatic storm in June hit the Combe de Lavaux meaning yields were once again down here in 2022, bucking the general trend. But what they did make shows a suave power, and a cool, controlled, elegance.

This precious site was Bruno’s father’s favourite, and is now his son Arthur’s favourite too. It’s planted with the oldest vines of the domaine, which date back to 1902. Its east-facing amphitheatre-like form catches the sun’s rays, and the wine it produces is sappy, concentrated and complexly textured. There’s a clear density from the old vine fruit, and the energy of the vintage. Sumptuous, spiced, and poised.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, next to Ruchottes-Chambertin. It always has lots of millerandages (small berries) and so the wine has an intense concentration and exquisite finesse. It’s all red-fruited power and mineral length, typical of senior Gevrey terroirs.

Where the Bonnes Mares is muscular and persuasive, this is fragrant and fine, with a compelling thread of crystalline red fruit reaching to an astonishing finish. Clos de Bèze is a slightly steeper and warmer site than Chambertin next door, and the potential heights of complexity and concentration it can produce are remarkable. Most of the vines were planted in 1912, with the rest in the 1970s - affectionately still referred to as the young vines. This will be a tour de force with some years in bottle.

Dujac are on form in this grand cru, which is opulent and refined, with a huge depth of flavour and complex length.

Malconsorts is considered by many as equal in quality, and certainly as in-demand, as most grands crus, and you’ll be hard pushed to find a finer example than Dujac’s.

Pure, incredibly densely concentrated with crystalline fruit, and silky, satin-like tannins. This is wonderfully long, and, although a mere village wine, carries the calibre of its domaine on full display.

Combottes sits on the border of Morey and Gevrey, surrounded on all sides by grands crus. There are many theories as to why this isn’t a grand cru itself, most of which centre on the political angle (a popular theory is that because it is mostly shared amongst growers from Morey, the authorities in Gevrey enjoyed snubbing it). Nevertheless, it is a wonderful wine, with extraordinary ageing potential, and one of the finest premiers crus in the Côte de Nuits.

Domaine Duroché can do no wrong these days. Everything Pierre Duroché touches turns to gold, from his village wine right up to his grands crus. This is a fantastic entry point to one of the most in-demand names in the region.

This is fast becoming one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. The vineyard was planted in 1920, and you can feel the power of the old vines in the glass. It is intense and opulent, with plenty of spice on the nose. The palate is impeccably balanced, with vibrant acidity alongside an impressive mouthfeel. This is powerful, yet retains poise and elegance. It deserves plenty of time in the bottle.

Pierre owns the last parcel of Latricières before Chambertin begins, and while attention is usually focused on his Clos de Bèze, this is quickly becoming as in demand. It is suave, dark, and cool: somehow opulent and restrained at the same time.

Pierre has just 0.4 hectares in Charmes-Chambertin, which is divided into five separate parcels, two of which are on the border with Griotte-Chambertin, on more stony soils. The wine is always tightly coiled, with some noble austerity in its youth.

Duroché owns a sizable 1.2 hectare parcel of this premier cru, and it is arguably the cuvée that best defines the estate. There’s a coolness here, with dancing tannins and incredible purity. Lavaut balances a freshness, due to its position at the base of the Combe, with an opulence of fruit from the vineyard’s south facing aspect.

Les Cazetiers is situated right alongside Clos Saint-Jacques on the Combe de Lavaux. Its easterly exposure combined with cool, elevated position make for outstanding freshness in the wines. This is serious yet sensual in 2022. Lovely rose petal and Maraschino cherry notes on the nose, and fresh, intense palate: voluminous, creamy density, with velvety tannins.

This special cuvée comes from the oldest vines in Faiveley’s Clos de Bèze holding, and was first produced in 2011. The name is an homage to the family’s connection with the artist, Rodin, and the cuvée is only ever produced in tiny quantities. Powerful, deep, and dramatic. This will reward the patient.

Faiveley are the largest landowner in this fêted corner of Chambertin, with three parcels to their name. It is one of the consistently most complex wines in their range, and offers staggering ageing potential. In 2022, aromas of rose petal and cranberries combine, leading to gorgeously silky tannins, a fresh line of acidity driving through to a spicy finish.

This super monopole vineyard in the Côte Chalonnaise village of Mercurey is one of the bargains of Burgundy. It’s lively and juicy, with the freshness of the vintage serving it well. There is textural, red berry-fruited, with supple tannins and a gourmand finish.

Latricières always feels a little cooler than Charmes-Chambertin, its neighbouring Grand Cru. A gentle but cool breeze draws down the valley, keeping freshness and minerality in the grapes. The 2022 exudes freshly-sliced red fruit, scents of raspberry and red plum. There is a fleshy weight in the mid-palate but also a delicious bite to the fruit on the finish. A very accomplished example of the vintage.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian grands crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). This is complex and fascinating in 2022, with sweet, smoky spice wrapping around concentrated red fruit, with a long,mineral length.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey grands crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. This is elegant and seductive, with a spicy, rich, lavishness about it.

The 70-year-old vines planted on the poor, stony limestone soil of Les Charmes make for a structured mineral and very long wine in 2022.

This hails from the cool climes in the hills above the Ladoix-Serrigny in the Côte de Beaune. It is peachy and smooth, with nice roundness and a silky texture.

This ‘other’ white grape from Burgundy is enjoying a well-deserved moment: the wines are fresh, vibrant, wonderful for early drinking and offer unparalleled value. The balance of the wines also seems to be coping particularly well with climate change. Are they the future of white Burgundy? The Felettig example is everything we’re looking for: salty, fresh, and moreish.

There’s notable concentration and grip in this dark-scented, structured Fixin. 30% whole-bunch and 60% new oak make for a baroque style, recalling the energy and density of many 2020s. Its 300m elevation and 20% incline give it freshness and grippy precision.

This is a spectacularly well placed vineyard that enjoys a commanding view above the village. It is separated by just a small road from Clos de Tart Grand Cru. It is one of the more tannic and structured in the Felettig cellar in 2022. Gilbert mentions it’s always one of the final parcels to be harvested as it ripens a little later. The density is impressive.

This is one of the best-known premiers crus of Chambolle, and the domaine is lucky enough to have a tiny slice, just 0.17 hectares. It is supremely long in 2022, with a staggeringly pretty red fruit precision.

Les Fuées enjoys a wonderful position, just alongside Bonnes Mares, and as a result is one of the most sought-out crus in the village. It’s one of the riper wines in the cellar, but at 13.5% it’s by no means out of balance. Indeed, the fruit maturity only gives it greater depth.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). So as you might expect the soil is high in limestone, and the wine it produces is highly mineral. There is a sweet tenderness to the fruit, with a creamy length.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). The wine is full of black cherries, with a creamy texture and silky length. 80% whole-bunch fruit results in big energy, and a dense, complex finish.

As the name suggests, this monopole vineyard is situated in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny. At 0.5 hectares, it is the Felettigs’ largest single parcel. There’s lots of limestone in the soil here, and the 50-year-old vines dig deep. It is rich and resplendent, with a full-on torrefaction, toasty new oak nose wrapped around the floral fruit detail.

This cuvée has only been made by Domaine Felettig since 2018. It comes from a half hectare plot in the centre of the commune. It will be ready to approach early on, with its juicy structure.

The domaine has vines in two plots on either side of Nuits: Les Chariots in the south and Aux Lavières in the north. There is a Chambolle signature woven through the Nuits fruit here; the wine has nice firm structure yet remains silky overall.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s most substantial premiers crus, famous for producing particularly long-lived wines. This shows brilliantly crystalline Pinot fruit - pure, red-fruited and ethereal. The intensity is dialled up, and the saline length promises much to come.

This monopole grand cru in the heart of Vosne-Romanée between two Domaine de la Romanée-Conti monopoles - La Tâche and La Romanée-Conti - is the flagship wine of the estate. Its increased quality in recent years is the primary reason Nicole Lamarche’s star is in the ascendancy. It smells so young and pure: like a basket full of freshly picked strawberries. An exquisite fine thread of acidity weaves through the finish.

This wine is exclusive to Lay & Wheeler in the UK. It is a steep site that sits right up against Aux Boudots on the Vosne side of the appellation. It has the finesse of Vosne and the power of Nuits - a pretty appealing combination. Some of the very old vines were recently replaced, and 2022 is the first vintage that sees their production return to the blend - something that Nicole says makes this a much more interesting wine now.

This is one of the most exciting Hautes-Côtes de Nuits out there. It comes from a parcel in Concoeur-et-Courboin, on the hills just above Vosne. It has prickly red fruit, and light and fragrant body, with delicate but peppery tannins giving it agile length.

This is one of three grand cru sites in Nicole’s cellar. It is often the most understated, yet it offers up a remarkable persistence. Its fine, lacy texture makes for a graceful finish.

Nicole has three parcels within this grand cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. The three add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is a highly complete and poised wine in 2022. There’s a spiced density to the fruit-packed tannins, and a long savoury finish.

This might just be the best village Vosne out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy structure. It is powerful and beautiful with silky tannins, and fresh red fruit, packing lots of energy.

This well-positioned vineyard on the Vosne side of the appellation sits on the slope, enjoying plenty of sunshine and the cooling ventilation of a constant breeze, keeping the fruit in excellent health during the growing season. The vineyard is on the border with Vosne-Romanée and the wine shows so much of its neighbour’s finesse as well as concentration, with Nuits’ bite and grip.

Ruchottes is a fairly small grand cru, just 3.3 hectares in total. The Mugneret-Gibourg parcel is in Ruchottes du Bas, and makes a beautiful wine, with chewy density and a luxurious, voluptuous finish. This is rightly regarded as a high-point in the Mugneret-Gibourg cellar.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It makes such a sweetly-scented and elegant wine, with a brilliantly deep fruit core. Perfumed and spiced, with great tension.

Since 2016, the domaine has added a little whole-bunch to this cuvée. It really works here, giving it superb aromatic lift. 65% of the fruit comes from Rouges du Bas, the rest from the Quartier de Nuits section of the Echézeaux grand cru. So elegant and balanced.

This vineyard lies right next to the family home and winery, extending out like a garden from the cellar doors. Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée’s father had rented it to a neighbour, but the well-maintained vineyard came back under the domaine’s control again from 2017. It is a full-bodied, deeply-fruited village wine with superb density and a cool, voluminous length.

This comes from just one parcel in Vosne-Romanée, planted in 1955, and for the past few years has sported the vineyard’s name, Les Lutenières, on its label. The wines are yielding such low volumes that the domaine is in the process of replanting, uprooting one quarter of the parcel at a time. The wine has a sweet density and deep, structured fruit, with profound persistence for a Bourgogne. It will easily age for a decade, which is not something you can say of every Bourgogne.

Mugneret-Gibourg has just one parcel within this sizable grand cru, planted in 1954, just next to the château. It is one of the finest examples of the vineyard, with depth, structure, and complexity, red cherry fruit and a full-bodied length.

This is a fairly recent addition to Maxime’s portfolio. As with all his wines it shows depth of fruit and suave tannins, with a long finish, tempered by the freshness of the vintage.

Les Petits Monts is a superbly positioned premier cru, lying just above Richebourg and alongside Cros Parantoux. Maxime is in full command of his craft when it comes to Vosne premiers crus, so owners of this will be in for a treat in years to come.

This comes from parcels scattered across the village that Maxime inherited from his grandmother. It has delicious red fruit energy woven through the velvet-like tannins. Quintessential Vosne.

Maxime’s lightness of touch combined with Nuits-St-George’s naturally muscular style make for a compelling village wine. It has a dark cherry fruit core, with the density to ensure a long drinking window.

The Chaume vineyard lies in the centre of the village, and is strongly associated with the Georges Noëllat name - it sweeps right down into their garden. The wine is supremely silky and supple, with deep berry fruit. It couldn’t be anything other than top class Vosne.

This is Maxime at the top of his game, and this cuvée is one of the most sought-after in his collection. It shows the delicious combination of grand cru structure and length, with the sweet fruit note of morello cherry.

Maxime’s Boudots is always one of the top picks from his cellar showing both the silky control of Vosne and the muscular depth of Nuits in its complex character.

Of all the wines under the Maxime Cheurlin Noëllat label, this will need the longest to come around. It comes from lieu-dit Le Petit Maupertui, one of the finest parcels in the substantial grand cru.

The Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is proving a popular spot for growers in Vosne who are looking for wines that are a little more forward, accessible, and with vibrant freshness, as is the case in this excellent example.

This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny in Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, called Les Bons Bâtons. It is so red-fruited, with fragrant length, and lacy tannins. It feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne, and comes with considerable ageing potential.

You won’t find much better than this at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and nuance, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her premiers crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins. It comes from nine plots across the village, and shows wonderful definition.

This vineyard lies right in the middle of the village in a small dip, making it a cool spot, giving it an edge in warmer years. In 2022, she finds it the most Chambolle of the cellar. The vines are now 40 years old, and are really hitting their stride. It has superb floral intensity, and a delicate restraint. Only one and a half barrels made, even in the plentiful 2022 vintage.

This is one of Ghislaine’s greatest cuvées. Its slightly deeper soil than other Chambolle premiers crus means the vines often ripen early here, and it’s always the first harvested. Ghislaine describes it as a loyal friend - it’s always there with open arms, from youth right through to old age.

This wine’s power and energy dominate when young, and the promise of its future are clear to see when tasting from barrel. This is an exceptional Cras from Ghislaine, with grand cru texture through and through. It’s the most structured wine in the cellar, and possibly the best, too.

Charles van Canneyt’s Vosne is a mini-masterclass in its style. It comes from a single parcel called Basses Mazières, just below Suchots. It is smoky, spiced, and has Vosne’s velvet power.

This comes from an astonishing 18 different parcels, many clustered around the village of Chambolle-Musigny. It shows a huge amount of concentration for a Bourgogne, with intense berry fruit and glossy tannins.

This is a supreme example of Clos de Vougeot. Charles has two excellent parcels, one of which is just next to the château in the sweet spot of the Clos. It shows density without heaviness, intensity without extraction.

Les Murgers is one of the finest positioned vineyards in Nuits, in the heart of the hillside on the Vosne-Romanée side of the town. It is scented and sophisticated, with a salty, savoury quality and tremendous length.

Les Beaumonts sits high up the hill, on the limestone slope which is home to Vosne’s finest premiers crus. The wine is dark, brooding, with mineral freshness and elegant spice. It has backbone, but also a tenderness. This should evolve with great grace in the cellar.

This is the pinnacle of the Hudelot-Noëllat cellar. It shows such an amplitude of fruit, such fine, textural layers, and a beautifully perfumed length.

This is brilliant in 2022: aromatic, silky, and refined. Its ample body and smooth tannins are off-set by its red-fruit freshness. The clay soils of this part of Nuits are really coming into their own with these dry summers.

Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath premier cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and as a result it’s a major step up on your regular village cuvée. It shows clarity, energy and density, floral salty notes, and beautiful structure.

This is always one of the prettiest in the Grivot cellar, and 2022 is no exception. There is a sweet balance between the graceful tannins and red berry fruit, with fresh drive and elegant body.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. Etienne says that Henri Jayer made him promise to never, ever rip out these vines. He has kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar.

“Très Bourguignon” declares Etienne of his village Vosne. It’s made from a blend of many small parcels across the village, and the result is a wonderfully complete and complex portrait of Vosne. There is all the requisite fruit and fragrant pinot aromas in place, and silky plentiful tannins, marking it out for distinction in 2022.

The Grivots have a substantial single parcel in Clos de Vougeot, which is easy to spot, with its magnificent gate on the roadside. The wine is finely woven, detailed and poised, with both power and length. Blood orange and violets perfume the nose, with a little tobacco spice and pepper on the palate.

This is one of the most in-demand wines in Burgundy, and with good reason. It is truly grand cru in stature: profound, complex, with supreme length.

This wine has earned a strong following for its consistently superb quality. It is suave and intense, with an opulent freshness. It finishes with a lingering aromatic note.

Les Beaux Monts is always one of the most impressive wines from this cellar. It is a beautiful vineyard in Vosne, and one of Etienne’s personal favourites. It is intense and energetic, with elegantly constructed tannins. The ageing potential is dialled up here. It is a wine of tremendous finesse already, but also one that promises much more in the years to come.

Les Beaux Monts is always one of the most impressive wines from this cellar. It is a beautiful vineyard in Vosne, and one of Etienne’s personal favourites. It is intense and energetic, with elegantly constructed tannins. The ageing potential is dialled up here. It is a wine of tremendous finesse already, but also one that promises much more in the years to come.

This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits-Village is a true cut above its classification. Every year it comes out as a team favourite for the character, precision, and quality it delivers for the price. In 2022 its 40% whole-bunch fruit gives it peppery fragrance, with a gliding silkiness on the palate. It outplays many wines from grander communes every year, and 2022 is no exception.

Alix’s Echézeaux is a blend of three plots across the grand cru. It has a formidable intensity, with kirsch, menthol, dark spice, and black tea all vying for attention. It shows magnificent structure in its tannins.

Clos de Vougeot is a huge vineyard, so it matters where you’re placed. Alix Millot’s plot is in Grand Maupertui, which borders Grands-Echézeaux, often considered the finest part of the vineyard. It’s a big wine, with black licorice, raspberry, and salty minerality.

This parcel came to Alix through her mother’s family. Les Suchots is a decent sized premier cru (13ha), and shared amongst many of the finest growers of its village. Yet it’s often Alix’s Suchots that steal the show. Her 2022 has the vineyard’s broad-shoulders, with a complex layering of fruit and tannin building to a powerful finale.

In spite of appearances, Grands-Echézeaux is much smaller than Echézeaux, and its wines much rarer. In the right hands, it often holds the edge in terms of quality. Where the rest of Alix’s 2022s are structured and handsomely muscular, this is refined and ethereal.

This comes from two sites in Vosne, one bordering Suchots (Hautes Maizières) and the other Clos Vougeot (Les Violettes). Voluminous and sophisticated, and every inch of its prestigious commune.

This large seven hectare vineyard in the hills above Nuits-St-Georges is a monopole of the Michel Gros domaine, and offers up great value from the Vosne grower. It has wonderful limestone soils, similar to those found on the hill of Corton, though with a much fresher climate, thanks to its elevation. The vines were planted in the 1970s and 1980s, and at full maturity are producing great concentration, leading to interesting and complex layers in the wine. It has a chewy density in 2022 and a firm tannic backbone.

2022 is the first vintage we see Richebourg under the Michel Gros label. The vines have been returned to this branch of the Gros family from Gros Frères et Soeurs, and it now falls to Pierre Gros to bottle what is one of the most incredible parcels in the whole of Burgundy. This 2022 was magnificent. The statuesque character of the vineyard was on fine display, even in the young wine still in barrel. It should reward the patient.

This premier cru neighbours Richebourg, and has a lot of limestone on the soil. This gives the wine great definition and drive on the palate. As ever, it is quite a broad-shouldered wine, with good stature promising ageing potential. But there is also Vosne’s classic velvet power in the fruit, matched with some toasty oak.

This vineyard is a monopole of the estate which has been in the hands of the family since 1860. Where the Brûlées is firm and structured, Clos de Réas is more lithe and supple, with a sophisticated flavour palette of blood oranges, crushed raspberries, and smoky spice.

If you are looking for good value in Vosne-Romanée, you’re on the right track here. It comes from three well-placed parcels, including Aux Réas which extends on from the premier cru, along with La Colombière, and Au Dessus de la Rivière. There’s a grippy balance at play here between some blackberry fruit and some herbal aromatics. It has a good, firm length with a high level of density for a village wine.

This parcel sits just under one of Nuits-St-Georges’ most celebrated premiers crus, Les Vaucrains. It has a more refined structure than the straight village cuvée. It has concentrated, dark fruit, and some lifted aromatics.

These vines are around 60 years old and come from four parcels, which Maxime gives a very representative snapshot of the village. The wine has a beautiful nose, scented with sweet red berries, followed by a palate displaying exciting freshness.

Although they account for a minute percentage of overall production the white wines of Nuits-St-Georges have a proud history. Interestingly, Pinot Blanc, as well as Chardonnay, is permitted under the AOC, and this cuvée from the Rions has a little dash in the blend. It’s zesty and fragrant, with peachy stone fruit and white blossom intertwined. It’s clearly much more than a curiosity: this is an important bit of Nuits’ living history, and a delicious white which matches the calibre of the estate’s fantastic range of reds.

High up on the hill overlooking the village, this is one of Vosne’s greatest premiers crus. In the hands of Maxime Rion, it is an absolute beauty. Dense but supple, with a velvet structure.

2022 sees the village Vosne come back under the domaine label, since vineyard ownership has been transferred back to them. It’s a very smart Vosne, too, showing great intensity, and a gliding, persistent grace. It comes from some excellent sites across the village, including Aux Raviolles, La Croix Blanches and Les Hauts Beaux Monts. We’re very happy to see it back.

Maxime casually shows his Nuits village after his Vosne premier cru when you taste the full line up in his cellar: that says really quite a lot. When you taste it you understand why. This is a sensational Nuits St Georges. Most of the fruit is from the domaine’s own vineyards, with a small balance from purchased grapes. In 2022 Maxime destemmed all the fruit, and the resulting wine is so elegant and fine, with aromatic purity and gorgeous, fluid energy. Classical Burgundy through and through.

There can’t be many village parcels with a better position than this. Indeed, the bottom half of the vineyard is premier cru. The top half runs above Les Fuées and meets with Bonnes-Mares at its northern edge. 40-50% whole-bunch gives it a vibrant, sweet-fruit energy, balancing the considerable concentration. Expertly judged.

This vineyard between Chambolle Musigny and Gilly-lès-Citeaux is one of the best parcels of Bourgogne in the Côte de Nuits. Neighbour Ghislaine Barthod’s Bourgogne Rouge is another exceptional example of this vineyard. It’s a highly concentrated, espresso coffee of a Bourgogne, with huge concentration thanks to the vineyard's tendency to millerandages (small berries). Like Ghislaine’s, you can cellar this with confidence.

This vineyard is planted with very old vines, and they produce a wine of incredible substance and precision. It shows Chambolle’s density and texture, with its exceptionally fine tannins, and a controlled power within.

The beating heart of the domaine lies in this small monopole vineyard, just opposite their cellars in Premeaux-Prissey. It’s amazing, but undeniable, that in a line up that contains some of Chambolle and Vosne’s finest sites, this is always the highlight of the cellar, the whole tasting seemingly building to the moment you taste it. It has a long, sinewy tension, with remarkable depth. Truly sensational.

One third of the Méo vines in this parcel were planted in 1920, and their vines reach metres deep into the soils, producing formidably concentrated fruit. The rest of the blend is made up of fruit from vines planted in the 1960s. The overall effect is of great maturity and finesse.

This vineyard is up in the hills above Vosne, and enjoys a cooler microclimate thanks to its 437m elevation. There is a tiny bit of Pinot Blanc grown amongst Chardonnay here, and the wine has a gorgeous lemon verbena zing to it: citrusy and lightly grassy, with a chalky palate.

This parcel sits in the mid-slope of the hill of Corton, and is one of its finest vineyards, noted for its elegance and finesse. This has intense floral and spicy notes as the new oak wraps around the fruit. There’s a dialled up intensity to the ripeness here, making it stand out in 2022.

This is a blend of two parcels, one planted in the 1970s and 1980s, the other in the 1950s. It is raised in around half new oak, giving the silky fruit texture and luxurious depth.

This is sourced from two parcels, one with very old vines that yields small, concentrated berries. It always shows a wonderful balance between acidity and fruit, and Chambolle’s classical silky tannins.

Aux Boudots is a magnificent vineyard that borders Aux Malconsorts in Vosne. It produces some of the most luxurious and decadent wines of Nuits, with much of its neighbour’s character intertwined with its structured and muscular frame.

This vineyard lies just below La Tâche towards the centre of the village. It is dark and compact in 2022, with some spicy drive on the finish. The tannins are particularly velvet-like in texture.

These vines were planted in 1965 and 1972. Aux Murgers is one of the warmer, and therefore earlier ripening sites in Nuits, and this 2022 is silky and seductive.

This is a bright and lively, salty and fruity white from the cool, chalky-soiled village of Saint-Romain.

This comes from the premier cru part of the Monts Luisants parcel. The domaine chooses not to use that name on the label to avoid confusion with their unusual and lauded Aligoté from there. The vines sit just above Clos de la Roche, and have the power you might expect.

This is the pinnacle of the Ponsot cellar: their most famous and emblematic cuvée, and the one most demanding of time in the cellar. It comes from two parcels: the first is from the Monts Luisants part of the vineyard, which is home to both the oldest (some are over 80 years old) and youngest vines in the blend. The tannins of Monts Luisants are structural and firm, and will gain in tenderness with age. The rest comes from the original Clos de la Roche parcel in the heart of the hillside, which adds expressive fruit to the blend. Less dense on the palate, but with a lithe and silky fruit core, it brings a perfect balance to the finished wine. In all, the cuvée draws from 3.4 hectares, and is vinified in 5 separate tanks. They continue through their élevage as distinct parts, only blended towards the end before bottling.

This can proudly lay claim as the only Premier Cru Aligoté in Burgundy. It’s an unusual wine that has gained a loyal following over the years, and deservedly so, not just for its niche appeal, but also for its superb quality, texture, and freshness. 30% of the blend comes from younger vines, while 70% is drawn from the vines planted in 1911. It offers up gorgeous acidity, lively fresh fruit flavours and silky flow in its youth. With age the wine can develop a complex curry/spiced orange character not unlike an old Chenin Blanc or Riesling. A remarkable wine.

This is the most flamboyant, exotically perfumed, and heady of the Ponsot white wines. It has a creamy, silken texture, and delicious greengage and orange blossom notes on the palate. It comes from two parcels, Languettes and Le Charlemagne.

This is a blend of three vineyards from the hill of Corton: 60% Les Paulands, 20% Les Perrières and 20% Clos du Roi. It has an enticing fruit profile that is both juicy and tight, with a defined and elegant flourish on the end of the palate. Alexandre likes to keep the fermentation temperature a little lower compared to the Clos de la Roche, wanting to retain the vibrant fresh red fruits of the Corton hill.

The Monts Luisants vineyard spans village, premier and grand cru (Clos de la Roche) in the commune of Morey-St-Denis. Cuvée des Grives comes from the highest part of the vineyard (around 350m), designated village level. Here, at the top of this hill, tucked just beneath the forest, is the coolest part of the vineyard, and the vines dig deep into the cool Comblanchian limestone. A mini Clos de la Roche.

This is just the second vintage for this lovely Gevrey from Alexandre Abel and his team at Domaine Ponsot. It comes from a half hectare parcel in the Les Epoitures lieu-dit, not far from Petite Chapelle. It was replanted in 2014 by Laurent Ponsot before his departure, and is now producing a bright and elegant wine, with a gorgeous red cherry character, and fine lacy tannins.

This draws on a high proportion of young vines, and is one of the earlier drinking in the Ponsot cellar, though it will of course mature with interest if you choose to lay it down. It has a deep fruit core, and such a juicy expression, thanks to the domaine’s low yields and high ripeness levels.

Chapelle-Chambertin chez Ponsot is always a lesson in understatement and classical Pinot nobility, unadorned by oak or winemaking overtones. It remains bursting with fruit intensity, with a lively energy. Often the lightest on its feet of the grands crus in the cellar, but with a lithe power that stands it in great stead for ageing.

This is the pinnacle of the Ponsot cellar: their most famous and emblematic cuvée, and the one most demanding of time in the cellar. It comes from two parcels: the first is from the Monts Luisants part of the vineyard, which is home to both the oldest (some are over 80 years old) and youngest vines in the blend. The tannins of Monts Luisants are structural and firm, and will gain in tenderness with age. The rest comes from the original Clos de la Roche parcel in the heart of the hillside, which adds expressive fruit to the blend. Less dense on the palate, but with a lithe and silky fruit core, it brings a perfect balance to the finished wine. In all, the cuvée draws from 3.4 hectares, and is vinified in 5 separate tanks. They continue through their élévage as distinct parts, only blended towards the end before bottling.

This is one of the handful of Côte de Beaune parcels the domaine inherited from their Rossignol roots in Volnay. Their vines sit at the very top of the cru, in the vineyard’s sweet spot between Aux Cras and Les Grèves. The red stony soil and sunny exposition here make a silky, sweet-scented style of wine. It’s a wine that is vibrant and inviting in its youth, with plenty of depth to the fruit, slightly crunchy tannins, freshness, and a detailed, smooth length.

This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: nine parcels scattered around the village which are vinified in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the grands crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 45 and 85 years, and the concentration and complexity this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It is an elegant wine in 2022, intricately structured with layers of concentration leading to a fine, poised finish.

This is the only parcel the domaine bottles separately from the other Gevrey village parcels. That is thanks to its incredible position, and the consistency of quality it delivers every year. It is sandwiched between grands crus Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. It’s almost unbelievable it’s only a village lieu-dit. The Rossignol-Trapet vines lie right alongside the Joseph Roty Charmes Vieilles Vignes parcel, but the soil is more like Griotte-Chambertin just to the north. The nose displays attractive floral/red fruit aromas, and there’s an abundance of depth within the well-formed tannins, offering supporting structure to the wine.

Cool air comes down the valley between Morey-St-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, meaning Latricières is a little slower to mature than the other Gevrey grands crus. The wine shows tender, sweet red fruit on the nose, with a more serious, savoury palate. Graceful already, with some age this will take on even more depth and weight.

This was the first parcel they converted to biodynamics in 1997, so this lovely vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin has now benefitted from over two decades of low-intervention farming. It is also planted with a north/south orientation, and has fared well in the recent series of warm vintages. 2022 is no departure. Pretty aromatics, powerful depth to the fruit and a delightfully long, fresh finish.

Rossignol-Trapet owns two very fine parcels of this outstanding grand cru. The vines were mostly planted in the 1950s, with a small section of young vines planted in 2000, and another small section planted way back in 1919. This is such a handsome grand cru, with magnificent structure and length. It builds and builds, and offers buyers long ageing potential.

The clay soils of this well-placed parcel produce a wine of depth and roundness. Like the Etelois, there is some black fruit mingled in with the red, and an expressive, aromatic depth. The tannins provide a little more grip than the village wines, and will demand a few more years in the cellar.

As one should expect from a Morey grower, this village wine is a firecracker. It’s a blend of two parcels, Les Congées and Clos Solon, with an average vine age of nearly 60 years. The deeper clay soils in these parcels means the vines were well protected against the summer drought. It has that quintessential Morey character: black fruit and spice, density and precision, with a delicately wild edge.

This vineyard has the unusual honour of spanning grand cru (Clos de la Roche), premier cru, and village. Stéphane’s parcel lies right in the middle of the lieu-dit, and thus the premier cru sector. It’s made in tiny volumes, and is as brilliant as it is scarce.

Stéphane’s parcel of 65-year-old vines lie right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. It shows delicate salinity and fragrant fruit depth. Understated but hugely impressive.

This premier cru is one of Chambolle’s finest, right on the border with Morey, just beneath Bonnes Mares. A quarter of the vines are extremely old, having been planted in 1902, with the rest between 1950 and 1980. It shows great depth and intensity, a fine tapestry of tannins weaving through the Chambolle fruit.

Faconnières is one of the great terroirs of Morey, sitting just below Clos de la Roche. The fruit is vibrant and fresh, spanning the red berry spectrum. The palate is bright and poised, with an impressive volume. I ask this every year: is this the best value premier cru red on the list?

This was a new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2021. This comes from 3 different parcels. The 2022 shows plenty of rich fruit concentration laced with smoky, toasty notes.

This always feels slightly richer than the Chaumes, with some decadent berry depth and complex, weighted length. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

This is a blend of several parcels in the hills above Vosne-Romanée with vines aged between 10 and 70 years. It is floral, bright, saline and charming. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

This is as fine a village Vosne as you’re likely to find. It comes from five parcels in four different sites, giving a rounded portrait of the commune. It is spicy, fragrant, and incredibly long, with a fragrant, lingering quality.

This is from the original domaine inherited by Sébastien from Sylvain, and always over-delivers. You get the style and swagger of the Cathiard signature, with the open, accessible fruit of Bourgogne Rouge. It’s got abundant red berry notes on the nose, with a toasty kick from the new oak, and a long, satisfying length.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, and the one on which its considerable reputation has been built. Often the most closed in youth, it has the power and structure to evolve magnificently with time. Phenomenally complex and compelling.

This comes from a parcel between Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée, and contains 40% Gamay and 60% Pinot Noir. It is full of sweet spice and berry fruits with a lovely long finish. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

This comes from a single parcel in Gevrey, Champ Franc. It is spicy, grippy, and sophisticated. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

Aux Murgers is close to the border with Vosne, and has some of that neighbouring appellation’s signature elegance. Half the vines are over 70 years old, the other half 50+. It produces one of the most sumptuous and satin-like expressions of Nuits-St-Georges. Full-bodied and beautifully voluminous.

Suchots of one of the largest and most famous premiers crus in Vosne-Romanée, just below Les Beaux-Monts and Aux Brûlées, with Echezeaux to its north, and Romanée-Saint-Vivant to its south. It makes a structured and spicy wine, with powerful length and wonderful balance.

The Reignots vineyard sits on the steep incline of the hill as it rises up just above La Romanée. It has very thin, poor topsoil, and produces a wine with scintillating drive and precision.

Half of En Orveaux is included within Echezeaux grand cru. This comes from the upper half of the lieu-dit as the slope rises up, which is classified as premier cru. The views from here are spectacular. It produces a wine with the intense freshness of crushed red berries. A layered and complex palate will reward the patient.

A well-placed village parcel sits right in the middle of the appellation beneath premier cru Les Charmes and produces a complex, lacy, and layered Chambolle, with particularly smooth and silky tannins.

The grandest wine in the cellar, and also the one made in the smallest volumes. The power and complexity of the fruit matched with the new oak is extraordinary.

This premier cru has an enviable exposure, similar to Clos St Jacques in Gevrey. These 65 year old vines were planted by Sébastien’s great-grandfather when he was a tenant farmer. Wonderfully cool blue fruit with some ripe acidity giving it lift and drive.

The heart of the domaine lies in Gevrey, and their village wine is one any keen follower of the estate should be familiar with. It comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It has a tendency to display beautiful cherry fruit characters, and in 2022 it is a paradigm pinot. A well-judged amount of whole-bunch adds just a hint of lift.

This is a very special village lieu-dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. Most people who own vines here bottle it separately, as its character is of such high quality, it approaches premier cru levels of complexity. This has Gevrey’s classical sour cherry density, and a sweet amplitude of fruit on the palate. It delivers everything you’d look for in quality Gevrey.

Most of the fruit comes from the Côte de Nuits, with the majority from around Nuits itself, with the balance from the Côte de Beaune. It is a fresh and crunchy style of bourgogne, with enough bite to give it a vibrant length. It should drink well from a young age, and buyers will note, it comes in at a pretty tidy price.

This is Grand Cru in every sense: it is sumptuously perfumed and effortlessly refined, with graceful and persistent power. Where the Tawse Mazoyères is broad, this is long and fine, with a velvety energy. The domaine owns three parcels in this wonderful Gevrey-Chambertin grand cru, including one where the vines are well over 75 years old. It sits at the high point of the Tawse cellar, a culmination of the seriously good winemaking going on here, and a reason why the domaine is singled out year-after-year for critical acclaim. It is hard to overstate the quality on display here, with its long, red-berry, fragrant finesse.

Tuvilains is a lovely vineyard on the Pommard side of the town. In 2022 the wine is tightly wound, with grippy, compact tannins, and a fresh cherry bite. It will need some time to come around in bottle.

This is drawn from a couple of parcels on the south side of the commune towards Fixin and Gevrey-Chambertin. 35% whole-bunch gives the fruit a bright, crystalline, sapid quality, reminiscent of cranberries and pomegranates. There is some brambly, structural tannins typical of the village on display.

This grand cru needs little introduction. It is, in the eyes of many, the greatest site in Burgundy, where Pinot Noir reaches its apogee.The Tawse Musigny is always a fine-boned wine, and made in an elegant style that means it approaches its drinking window ahead of some neighbours’, but with the signature Musigny svelte-like tannins on full display. Destemmed by hand, it has a lightness of touch about it that sets it apart. Volumes in 2022 are mercifully better than in 2021, but this is still a rare and highly sought-after wine that has queues of buyers for just a handful of bottles.

This is a fabulous year for Clos de la Roche, making a juicy but restrained wine with huge potential It displays both the brawny swagger of the Clos de la Roche vineyard, and the suave handling of the Marchand-Tawse cellar combined.

This comes from vines planted in the original Clos St-Denis, in the heart of the grand cru. 15% whole-bunch is played off against the new oak with commanding skill. It is massive and powerful, and clearly has a lot to say, for those who are patient enough to give it the time.

This cuvée is the main reason we started buying the wines from Marchand-Tawse. It is a winner every year. A generous, but well-judged 60% whole-bunch gives it a transparent purity, and the wine displays a tender and delicious blackcurrant fruit pastel core. The vineyard sits just below Clos St-Denis, and next to Faconnières, in the heart of the village. We always lament that it is made in such tiny quantities.

This remote east-facing vineyard sits at an elevation of 400m. Mark says that on a crisp summer morning you can see all the way to Mont Blanc from here. Its position means, although bathed in morning sun, it does not have much hot afternoon sun, and fruit ripens slowly here. It is often picked last, and in 2022, Mark upped the quantity of whole-bunch to around 40%, succeeding in producing a Gevrey with silky fine tannins and a velvety length.

This really works in 2022. The fully destemmed fruit has been given 25% new oak, and the balance is just right. It is sweetly scented, with pliant tannins and a pretty and delicate finish.

Pascal thinks 2022 might just be the best Frémiets they have ever made. It is packed with concentrated red currant energy. It is opulent and deep, with the tension across the palate to give it a staggeringly long finish. This should be beautiful in a few years.

Mark Fincham isn’t one to mince his words, so when he says this is the best Mazoyères he’s made at Tawse, it’s worth listening to him. It’s got 66% whole-bunch, and shows Mark’s skill and confidence with this style. It’s savoury, decadent but fresh, and ready for the long haul.

This monopole vineyard spans over seven hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. In 2022 it steals the show, with its plush fruit, and beautifully rounded tannins. Excellent length that plays with fruit and spice gives it a persuasive power.

This is the historic flagship monopole of the domaine, and lies just outside the cellar door. Its distinctive amphitheatre shape is planted with some very old vines, meaning production is low, even in more plentiful years. The wine is aromatically complex, gourmand and delicate at the same time, with a spiced, rose-petal character drawing you in. Ethereal.

This is one of few prestigious whites of the Côte de Nuits, and comes from one of the estate’s two monopole vineyards. In 2022 all the younger vines that had previously gone into La Gerbotte, have been incorporated into the senior cuvée. It is easily one of the best white wines you’ll find in the Côte de Nuits, showing bright, elegant fruit, and an appetising bitterness. It’s all really coming together for this cuvée.

This cuvée first appeared in 2015. It is made from the young(er) vines of the Clos de l’Arlot that had once been labelled ‘Petit Arlot’. It consistently proves its worth as a separate bottling with every new vintage. The 2022 is vibrant and energetic, with succulent tannins wrapped around fluent red fruit.

Like their Suchots, this was another canny purchase that the domaine made in the 1990s, and marks a high point in the cellar. It is so ample and voluminous, wrapping around the palate with its peppery intensity, and succulent, deep tannins.

The domaine purchased this plot of Vosne premier cru in the 1990s, and since then has been making this superb cuvée. Creamy, aromatic red fruit notes announce a serious Suchots. Impressive spice and structure.

Jacques has maintained the longstanding tradition here of fully destemming the fruit for this village cuvée. The domaine’s two parcels (Les Larrets and Rue de Vergy) sit high up on the slope, just above the grands crus on limestone soils. This shows delicious red fruit crunch, in a floral and enticing attitude.

This comes from 0.7 hectares of premiers crus across the village: La Riotte, Blanchards, and Le Village. The gentle handling in the cellar draws out the finest qualities of the fruit here: tight red berry fruit, with a fine silky texture to the tannins, and an elegant thread of acidity. 40% whole bunch means the riper, richer fruit from the clay soils retains ethereal balance, and supple length.

Jacques Devauge has settled in and is now really hitting his stride in this magnificent Clos de Lambrays. He vinifies the Clos in 11 separate parcels, and in so doing, masterfully draws out the exuberance and tension of the site. There is a delicious roasted/torrefaction quality to the reductive, svelte nose: this is extremely smart Pinot Noir. It shows massive potential on the palate, being both voluminous and gentle at the same time. It has depth, dimension, texture, light and shade.