Côte de Nuits 2022

Cyprien makes two Bourgognes, and this is the one that comes from the domaine’s single parcel which lies just beyond the village boundary of Gevrey Chambertin, but a stone’s throw from the village’s grands crus. It is a fairly serious Bourgogne, with an expressive, chewy core to it, offering up the density of Gevrey, with the open fruit to drink well from early on.

This comes from various parcels the domaine owns around the village, mostly located on the Morey side of the village. It shows a certain austerity, mingled with Chambolle’s signature texture: silky, dense, and refined.

The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The 2022 has a fragrant and salty dynamism. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a top contender for promotion to premier cru status.

The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The 2022 has a fragrant and salty dynamism. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a top contender for promotion to premier cru status.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes Mares, and the Clair parcel is an extension of their lauded Bonnes Mares plot. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru, really. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has abundant blackberry and wild strawberry aromas, tightly-wound tannins, and a fragrant energy.

This is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part of the vineyard to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest is in Chambolle-Musigny). It is muscular, yet tender, with a deep and concentrated core. There is an unbelievable length on display here, with a finish that fans out across the palate.

Bruno Clair is one of only five producers of this revered premier cru, that many regard as equal to the Gevrey grands crus. The Clairs refer to it as ‘the Prince of Gevrey’. It is steep by Burgundian standards, with clay-rich soil. A dramatic storm in June hit the Combe de Lavaux meaning yields were once again down here in 2022, bucking the general trend. But what they did make shows a suave power, and a cool, controlled, elegance.

Domaine Duroché can do no wrong these days. Everything Pierre Duroché touches turns to gold, from his village wine right up to his grands crus. This is a fantastic entry point to one of the most in-demand names in the region.

This is fast becoming one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. The vineyard was planted in 1920, and you can feel the power of the old vines in the glass. It is intense and opulent, with plenty of spice on the nose. The palate is impeccably balanced, with vibrant acidity alongside an impressive mouthfeel. This is powerful, yet retains poise and elegance. It deserves plenty of time in the bottle.

Les Cazetiers is situated right alongside Clos Saint-Jacques on the Combe de Lavaux. Its easterly exposure combined with cool, elevated position make for outstanding freshness in the wines. This is serious yet sensual in 2022. Lovely rose petal and Maraschino cherry notes on the nose, and fresh, intense palate: voluminous, creamy density, with velvety tannins.

This special cuvée comes from the oldest vines in Faiveley’s Clos de Bèze holding, and was first produced in 2011. The name is an homage to the family’s connection with the artist, Rodin, and the cuvée is only ever produced in tiny quantities. Powerful, deep, and dramatic. This will reward the patient.

The 70-year-old vines planted on the poor, stony limestone soil of Les Charmes make for a structured mineral and very long wine in 2022.

This hails from the cool climes in the hills above the Ladoix-Serrigny in the Côte de Beaune. It is peachy and smooth, with nice roundness and a silky texture.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s most substantial premiers crus, famous for producing particularly long-lived wines. This shows brilliantly crystalline Pinot fruit - pure, red-fruited and ethereal. The intensity is dialled up, and the saline length promises much to come.

This might just be the best village Vosne out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy structure. It is powerful and beautiful with silky tannins, and fresh red fruit, packing lots of energy.

This well-positioned vineyard on the Vosne side of the appellation sits on the slope, enjoying plenty of sunshine and the cooling ventilation of a constant breeze, keeping the fruit in excellent health during the growing season. The vineyard is on the border with Vosne-Romanée and the wine shows so much of its neighbour’s finesse as well as concentration, with Nuits’ bite and grip.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It makes such a sweetly-scented and elegant wine, with a brilliantly deep fruit core. Perfumed and spiced, with great tension.

Since 2016, the domaine has added a little whole-bunch to this cuvée. It really works here, giving it superb aromatic lift. 65% of the fruit comes from Rouges du Bas, the rest from the Quartier de Nuits section of the Echézeaux grand cru. So elegant and balanced.

Ruchottes is a fairly small grand cru, just 3.3 hectares in total. The Mugneret-Gibourg parcel is in Ruchottes du Bas, and makes a beautiful wine, with chewy density and a luxurious, voluptuous finish. This is rightly regarded as a high-point in the Mugneret-Gibourg cellar.

This is a fairly recent addition to Maxime’s portfolio. As with all his wines it shows depth of fruit and suave tannins, with a long finish, tempered by the freshness of the vintage.

Les Petits Monts is a superbly positioned premier cru, lying just above Richebourg and alongside Cros Parantoux. Maxime is in full command of his craft when it comes to Vosne premiers crus, so owners of this will be in for a treat in years to come.

This comes from a single parcel just across the road from Chambolle-Musigny in Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, called Les Bons Bâtons. It is so red-fruited, with fragrant length, and lacy tannins. It feels more like a Chambolle than a Bourgogne, and comes with considerable ageing potential.

You won’t find much better than this at village level. This is a wine of terrific complexity and nuance, with much of the texture and nuance you can find in her premiers crus, just with a slightly more forward and open fruit, and lighter tannins. It comes from nine plots across the village, and shows wonderful definition.

Charles van Canneyt’s Vosne is a mini-masterclass in its style. It comes from a single parcel called Basses Mazières, just below Suchots. It is smoky, spiced, and has Vosne’s velvet power.

This is brilliant in 2022: aromatic, silky, and refined. Its ample body and smooth tannins are off-set by its red-fruit freshness. The clay soils of this part of Nuits are really coming into their own with these dry summers.

Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath premier cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and as a result it’s a major step up on your regular village cuvée. It shows clarity, energy and density, floral salty notes, and beautiful structure.

This is always one of the prettiest in the Grivot cellar, and 2022 is no exception. There is a sweet balance between the graceful tannins and red berry fruit, with fresh drive and elegant body.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. Etienne says that Henri Jayer made him promise to never, ever rip out these vines. He has kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar.

This single vineyard Côtes de Nuits-Village is a true cut above its classification. Every year it comes out as a team favourite for the character, precision, and quality it delivers for the price. In 2022 its 40% whole-bunch fruit gives it peppery fragrance, with a gliding silkiness on the palate. It outplays many wines from grander communes every year, and 2022 is no exception.

Alix’s Echézeaux is a blend of three plots across the grand cru. It has a formidable intensity, with kirsch, menthol, dark spice, and black tea all vying for attention. It shows magnificent structure in its tannins.

Clos de Vougeot is a huge vineyard, so it matters where you’re placed. Alix Millot’s plot is in Grand Maupertui, which borders Grands-Echézeaux, often considered the finest part of the vineyard. It’s a big wine, with black licorice, raspberry, and salty minerality.

This parcel came to Alix through her mother’s family. Les Suchots is a decent sized premier cru (13ha), and shared amongst many of the finest growers of its village. Yet it’s often Alix’s Suchots that steal the show. Her 2022 has the vineyard’s broad-shoulders, with a complex layering of fruit and tannin building to a powerful finale.

In spite of appearances, Grands-Echézeaux is much smaller than Echézeaux, and its wines much rarer. In the right hands, it often holds the edge in terms of quality. Where the rest of Alix’s 2022s are structured and handsomely muscular, this is refined and ethereal.

This large seven hectare vineyard in the hills above Nuits-St-Georges is a monopole of the Michel Gros domaine, and offers up great value from the Vosne grower. It has wonderful limestone soils, similar to those found on the hill of Corton, though with a much fresher climate, thanks to its elevation. The vines were planted in the 1970s and 1980s, and at full maturity are producing great concentration, leading to interesting and complex layers in the wine. It has a chewy density in 2022 and a firm tannic backbone.

These vines are around 60 years old and come from four parcels, which Maxime gives a very representative snapshot of the village. The wine has a beautiful nose, scented with sweet red berries, followed by a palate displaying exciting freshness.

Although they account for a minute percentage of overall production the white wines of Nuits-St-Georges have a proud history. Interestingly, Pinot Blanc, as well as Chardonnay, is permitted under the AOC, and this cuvée from the Rions has a little dash in the blend. It’s zesty and fragrant, with peachy stone fruit and white blossom intertwined. It’s clearly much more than a curiosity: this is an important bit of Nuits’ living history, and a delicious white which matches the calibre of the estate’s fantastic range of reds.

High up on the hill overlooking the village, this is one of Vosne’s greatest premiers crus. In the hands of Maxime Rion, it is an absolute beauty. Dense but supple, with a velvet structure.

2022 sees the village Vosne come back under the domaine label, since vineyard ownership has been transferred back to them. It’s a very smart Vosne, too, showing great intensity, and a gliding, persistent grace. It comes from some excellent sites across the village, including Aux Raviolles, La Croix Blanches and Les Hauts Beaux Monts. We’re very happy to see it back.

Maxime casually shows his Nuits village after his Vosne premier cru when you taste the full line up in his cellar: that says really quite a lot. When you taste it you understand why. This is a sensational Nuits St Georges. Most of the fruit is from the domaine’s own vineyards, with a small balance from purchased grapes. In 2022 Maxime destemmed all the fruit, and the resulting wine is so elegant and fine, with aromatic purity and gorgeous, fluid energy. Classical Burgundy through and through.

One third of the Méo vines in this parcel were planted in 1920, and their vines reach metres deep into the soils, producing formidably concentrated fruit. The rest of the blend is made up of fruit from vines planted in the 1960s. The overall effect is of great maturity and finesse.

This is a bright and lively, salty and fruity white from the cool, chalky-soiled village of Saint-Romain.

This comes from the premier cru part of the Monts Luisants parcel. The domaine chooses not to use that name on the label to avoid confusion with their unusual and lauded Aligoté from there. The vines sit just above Clos de la Roche, and have the power you might expect.

This is the pinnacle of the Ponsot cellar: their most famous and emblematic cuvée, and the one most demanding of time in the cellar. It comes from two parcels: the first is from the Monts Luisants part of the vineyard, which is home to both the oldest (some are over 80 years old) and youngest vines in the blend. The tannins of Monts Luisants are structural and firm, and will gain in tenderness with age. The rest comes from the original Clos de la Roche parcel in the heart of the hillside, which adds expressive fruit to the blend. Less dense on the palate, but with a lithe and silky fruit core, it brings a perfect balance to the finished wine. In all, the cuvée draws from 3.4 hectares, and is vinified in 5 separate tanks. They continue through their élevage as distinct parts, only blended towards the end before bottling.

This is one of the handful of Côte de Beaune parcels the domaine inherited from their Rossignol roots in Volnay. Their vines sit at the very top of the cru, in the vineyard’s sweet spot between Aux Cras and Les Grèves. The red stony soil and sunny exposition here make a silky, sweet-scented style of wine. It’s a wine that is vibrant and inviting in its youth, with plenty of depth to the fruit, slightly crunchy tannins, freshness, and a detailed, smooth length.

This is one of the most complete Gevrey village wines you will find: nine parcels scattered around the village which are vinified in three parts. One part comes from the light stony soil at the bottom of the valley, giving a cool elegance; the second is a cluster of parcels in the middle of the village on clay soil, giving body and structure; the third is a group of parcels below the grands crus, giving a complexity and finesse. The vines are all aged between 45 and 85 years, and the concentration and complexity this wine delivers for the price is hard to beat. It is an elegant wine in 2022, intricately structured with layers of concentration leading to a fine, poised finish.

This is the only parcel the domaine bottles separately from the other Gevrey village parcels. That is thanks to its incredible position, and the consistency of quality it delivers every year. It is sandwiched between grands crus Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. It’s almost unbelievable it’s only a village lieu-dit. The Rossignol-Trapet vines lie right alongside the Joseph Roty Charmes Vieilles Vignes parcel, but the soil is more like Griotte-Chambertin just to the north. The nose displays attractive floral/red fruit aromas, and there’s an abundance of depth within the well-formed tannins, offering supporting structure to the wine.

Cool air comes down the valley between Morey-St-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, meaning Latricières is a little slower to mature than the other Gevrey grands crus. The wine shows tender, sweet red fruit on the nose, with a more serious, savoury palate. Graceful already, with some age this will take on even more depth and weight.

This was the first parcel they converted to biodynamics in 1997, so this lovely vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin has now benefitted from over two decades of low-intervention farming. It is also planted with a north/south orientation, and has fared well in the recent series of warm vintages. 2022 is no departure. Pretty aromatics, powerful depth to the fruit and a delightfully long, fresh finish.

As one should expect from a Morey grower, this village wine is a firecracker. It’s a blend of two parcels, Les Congées and Clos Solon, with an average vine age of nearly 60 years. The deeper clay soils in these parcels means the vines were well protected against the summer drought. It has that quintessential Morey character: black fruit and spice, density and precision, with a delicately wild edge.

Stéphane’s parcel of 65-year-old vines lie right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. It shows delicate salinity and fragrant fruit depth. Understated but hugely impressive.

This was a new addition to the Cathiard cellar in 2021. This comes from 3 different parcels. The 2022 shows plenty of rich fruit concentration laced with smoky, toasty notes.

This always feels slightly richer than the Chaumes, with some decadent berry depth and complex, weighted length. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

This is from the original domaine inherited by Sébastien from Sylvain, and always over-delivers. You get the style and swagger of the Cathiard signature, with the open, accessible fruit of Bourgogne Rouge. It’s got abundant red berry notes on the nose, with a toasty kick from the new oak, and a long, satisfying length.

This is a blend of several parcels in the hills above Vosne-Romanée with vines aged between 10 and 70 years. It is floral, bright, saline and charming. The cuvée is a recent addition of Sébastien’s to bolster the estate he inherited from his father, Sylvain.

Aux Murgers is close to the border with Vosne, and has some of that neighbouring appellation’s signature elegance. Half the vines are over 70 years old, the other half 50+. It produces one of the most sumptuous and satin-like expressions of Nuits-St-Georges. Full-bodied and beautifully voluminous.

A well-placed village parcel sits right in the middle of the appellation beneath premier cru Les Charmes and produces a complex, lacy, and layered Chambolle, with particularly smooth and silky tannins.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, and the one on which its considerable reputation has been built. Often the most closed in youth, it has the power and structure to evolve magnificently with time. Phenomenally complex and compelling.

The heart of the domaine lies in Gevrey, and their village wine is one any keen follower of the estate should be familiar with. It comes from seven parcels around the village, including La Justice, Forneaux, and Clos Prieur Bas. It has a tendency to display beautiful cherry fruit characters, and in 2022 it is a paradigm pinot. A well-judged amount of whole-bunch adds just a hint of lift.

This is a very special village lieu-dit. It is sandwiched between two grands crus: Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin. Most people who own vines here bottle it separately, as its character is of such high quality, it approaches premier cru levels of complexity. This has Gevrey’s classical sour cherry density, and a sweet amplitude of fruit on the palate. It delivers everything you’d look for in quality Gevrey.

Most of the fruit comes from the Côte de Nuits, with the majority from around Nuits itself, with the balance from the Côte de Beaune. It is a fresh and crunchy style of bourgogne, with enough bite to give it a vibrant length. It should drink well from a young age, and buyers will note, it comes in at a pretty tidy price.

This is Grand Cru in every sense: it is sumptuously perfumed and effortlessly refined, with graceful and persistent power. Where the Tawse Mazoyères is broad, this is long and fine, with a velvety energy. The domaine owns three parcels in this wonderful Gevrey-Chambertin grand cru, including one where the vines are well over 75 years old. It sits at the high point of the Tawse cellar, a culmination of the seriously good winemaking going on here, and a reason why the domaine is singled out year-after-year for critical acclaim. It is hard to overstate the quality on display here, with its long, red-berry, fragrant finesse.

Tuvilains is a lovely vineyard on the Pommard side of the town. In 2022 the wine is tightly wound, with grippy, compact tannins, and a fresh cherry bite. It will need some time to come around in bottle.

This monopole vineyard spans over seven hectares of limestone hillside, accounting for almost half the domaine’s production. In 2022 it steals the show, with its plush fruit, and beautifully rounded tannins. Excellent length that plays with fruit and spice gives it a persuasive power.

This is the historic flagship monopole of the domaine, and lies just outside the cellar door. Its distinctive amphitheatre shape is planted with some very old vines, meaning production is low, even in more plentiful years. The wine is aromatically complex, gourmand and delicate at the same time, with a spiced, rose-petal character drawing you in. Ethereal.

This is one of few prestigious whites of the Côte de Nuits, and comes from one of the estate’s two monopole vineyards. In 2022 all the younger vines that had previously gone into La Gerbotte, have been incorporated into the senior cuvée. It is easily one of the best white wines you’ll find in the Côte de Nuits, showing bright, elegant fruit, and an appetising bitterness. It’s all really coming together for this cuvée.