Côte de Beaune 2022

Charles Ballot is making some of the greatest Chardonnays in Burgundy these days, and his Bourgogne Blanc is an excellent place to get a taste of the style on offer at this address. 70% of the fruit is sourced from his home village of Meursault, with the balance coming from Puligny-Montrachet. It was easily one of the best Bourgogne Blancs we tasted this vintage.

This is the defining wine of this famous grand cru, the one to which everyone looks as the quintessential Corton-Charlemagne. The west-facing aspect of the hill means the vines enjoy the long rays of the afternoon sun, making for rich textures and a sumptuous depth of fruit. It is always exhilarating to taste, with rich layers of exuberant fruit and creamy, lightly spiced notes giving freshness and balance.

Maranges is the final limit of the Côte d’Or, and a source of crunchy, great value reds, if you follow the right grower. This is actually a blend of village and premier cru fruit (from 1er Cru Clos Rousseau), which David declassifies to give his village Marange more volume and quality. It’s a smart move, and a smart buy. It’s light-bodied, lithe, crunchy, juicy and vibrant.

Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by premiers crus on well-draining soil. It makes for a floral, ethereal style of Pinot with lovely proportions. This floral character is a natural expression of the site which David sees emerge every year. It makes for a compelling introduction to Santenay for first-timers.

Amongst a strong line up of premiers crus in David’s cellar, this is always our favourite. It comes from a parcel with a hard limestone bedrock, producing a wine that is marked by its surprising suppleness. In 2022 it is so fine, so Pinot. This is the work of a winemaker at the peak of his abilities, coaxing an ephemeral beauty from his Pinot.

Charles Ballot’s Narvaux sits in a sweet-spot for Burgundy buyers. It has the character, definition, energy and complexity far above a village wine, yet a price that falls well below that of a premier cru. This makes it a very smart purchase. Furthermore, Narvaux is acknowledged as one of Meursault’s finest lieux-dits. It has a racy, luscious vitality in 2022: both ample and energetic. Exactly how we like our Meursault.

Smooth, silky, bright and incisive. There is a lot to like here. The Ballot-Millot vines sit at the top of the parcel right next to Lafon’s. This location gives a dialled-up minerality, setting it apart from the richer examples produced further down the slope. As classical as they come in Meursault.

Along with Genevrières, you can rely on Perrières to be a sensational wine from Charles Ballot. In 2022 it shows the most sophisticated reduction in the cellar, with limestone bite on the palate and a mineral flourish on the finish. Scintillating.

In the Ballot-Millot cellar, Genevrières and Perrières are usually only split by a hair, as is the case in 2022. They are both outstanding. The vines in Genevrières are over 80 years old, and have weathered the hot summers well. The wine has weight and persistence, gorgeous amplitude and fabulous length.

This magnificent wine is only made in tiny quantities. There is superb precision on the palate, which is vibrant and mouth watering with a chalky structure. This complexity is no surprise, given that Les Caillerets is one of the finest sites in the village, with particularly stony soils, producing tense, vibrant, acid-driven wines.

La Maltroie is one of the larger premiers crus in Chassagne, and is often one of the most restrained, backward wines in Alex’s cellar. The vines sit right in the middle of the village, opposite the cellar. The 2022 has a savoury length, and a tight, refined power. It feels young, and will enjoy a long life ahead.

Morgeot borders Santenay at the south end of the village, and is not only the largest premier cru in Chassagne, but the largest cru in the Côte d’Or. Alex’s parcel has the benefit of old vines - 50 years old, and their concentration combined with Alex’s practice of long, slow fermentation has resulted in a smoky, textural, delicious expression.

This is always the wine Alex is most proud of in his cellar, which is telling praise. This is because it offers the complexity and depth on par with some other producers’ premiers crus. It represents the lion’s share of his cellar, and is drawn from many sites across the village, half of which are tucked up in the pocket of vineyards that hug the premiers crus. The other half comes from the village’s border with Puligny-Montrachet. The texture of these wines is exceptional, nowhere better displayed than in this Chassagne-Montrachet. They have tension and direction, without the phenolic extraction of some more worked wines. Effortlessly pure and persistent.

This is one of our most in-demand Bourgogne Blancs, and with good reason. It’s a window onto the style of one of the Côte de Beaune’s hottest winemakers of the moment. It’s racy, and fresh, with a burst of citrus fanning out across the palate. At 12% abv it’s the epitome of refreshing, balanced, and delicious Burgundy. The fruit comes from various parcels all within the Chassagne commune. As with all his wines, Alex looks for energy rather than too much ripeness in his Bourgogne. You will never regret having a few bottles of this in the cellar.

Sur Gamay is a little known premier cru, but it’s rather well positioned, finding itself between Les Murgers des Dents de Chien, Champlots, and Chatenière.It’s beautifully expressive, with a vibrant, pure and balanced length.

This is the first year we’ve picked up some Chassagne Rouge from Alex, so impressed we were when tasting from barrel. The vintage’s natural charm and ease suit his style well. While the focus of attention will remain on his whites, his reds offer up an approachable and delicious expression from this talented winemaker.

This comes from a blend for the domaine’s young vines with a small dash of extremely old vines, from multiple parcels scattered around the village of Nantoux. It has a crunchy acidity giving it a fresh profile, which is twinned with the ripe blueberry/raspberry fruit character. Whole-bunch has been upped to 60% in 2022 giving it a spiced, graceful length.

This is a new addition to the list in 2022: we just couldn’t resist. It’s made from old vine Gamay grown on the steep slopes of Nantoux (true to its name, unlike many other Coteaux Bourguignons which are grown on the flat plains on the other side of the route nationale). It was vinified with 50% whole-bunch fruit, gently handled in the cellar with low extraction. Some of the vines are getting on for ninety-years-old, and the concentration and kick this gives to the wine is notable. It’s gorgeous: juicy, fruit-forward, and joyful. Don’t miss this little rocket.

The Bignon parcel has red clay soil, not dissimilar to that found in pockets of Pommard. It usually produces an easy-going, fruit-forward wine, but I’m struck by the excellent structure found in this 2022. It still has the signature smooth fruit, but with fine, lightly grippy tannins from well-handled 60% whole-bunch fruit.

Boris Champy burst onto the scene in 2019, and is now a leading light of the Hautes-Côtes and of biodynamic viticulture in Burgundy. Le Clou is a single vineyard in Nantoux sitting at a precise 377 metres elevation. Its soil is similar to Volnay, with chalky, rocky topsoil over limestone marl bedrock. 100% whole-bunch has been used to great effect here: it has a fine, elegant aroma of red berries and cinnamon spice, with silky tannins and impressive concentration on the poised finish.

This tiny 0.09 hectare plot near the border with St-Aubin provides a sumptuous, smoky, powerful wine. It made its mark in this strong line-up, with its enticing nose of exotic fruit. The palate sings with zesty pink grapefruit length. It shows amazing energy and drive through the finish, with the ripeness of fruit perfectly offset by compelling freshness.

En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. At 300m altitude, with very little topsoil, Bruno’s two parcels (one of which touches Chevalier-Montrachet) make a magnificent wine: concentrated, opulent, mineral and energetic, with a precision you only find in Chardonnay grown on limestone.

An energetic and vibrant Bourgogne Blanc: it comes from parcels across Santenay and St-Aubin, wonderful fleshy fruit on the mid-palate paves the way for an impressively long finish. It is deliciously zesty and refreshing.

This tiny parcel is a family treasure, handed down to Bruno from his father - Michel Colin-Deléger. It is truly complex, graceful, with power and finesse in equal measure. Truly grand cru.

This premier cru shares borders with two grands crus: Le Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. It takes its name from the white, chalky soils found here, and it delivers everything in the glass you might expect from such a superb position and soil-type. It displays white blossom and stone fruit aromatics on the nose, with outstanding concentration following on the palate. It is the most complex of the premiers crus in Bruno’s cellar, but only made in tiny volumes since the parcel is so small and the vines bear such low yields. It is a captivating wine with impeccable balance in 2022.

This is the most linear and precise of Bruno’s premiers crus, with a zippy line running through the palate. It is tightly mineral and intricate, and in fact, feels quite a lot like a Puligny, yet there is a depth and texture to the fruit that draws you back to Chassagne. Saline and enduring in the finish. Outstanding.

This is a fantastic example of village Chassagne, with bright, vivid nectarine fruit character and a sumptuous, silky palate. It gets its intensity from the old vines (some are approaching 70 years) from nine parcels scattered across the village. A smattering of new oak gives it structure and support. Long and satisfyingly saline finish.

2022 sees the first year back in production of this magnificent site since Bruno replanted the old vines he inherited from his father. Les Demoiselles is a tiny premier cru, sandwiched between Chevalier-Montrachet, Le Montrachet, and Bâtard-Montrachet. It is classically Puligny on the nose - mineral, nervous, with fruit concentration. The palate is immediately opulent, concentrated and subtly exotic. The vibrant freshness means the wine culminates in a long salty finish. This will go the distance in the cellar for those patient enough to keep it.

This Volnay is so balanced and complete. Pillowy, gently spiced red fruit leads to a silky, aromatically complex palate, spiced through with wild strawberry fruit. It is a blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. There is a touch of sweetly-scented dry extract, making it both tender and mineral.

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable, with surprising ageing potential. It is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: Les Bréterins and Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep and well-draining, with limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant and inviting in its youth.

Les Frémiets sits on the border with Pommard, and the wine often shows the character of both villages. It is the most fine-boned, and restrained wine in the cellar this year, its charm derived from its elegant restraint. Its high proportion of old vines make a concentrated and deep wine. This is a polished, refined, and soulful Volnay.

Auxey-Duresses is a relatively unknown village of the Côte de Beaune, tucked up above Meursault, next to Monthelie, on the way to St Romain. This anonymity is in spite of its association with Lalou Bize-Leroy. Comte Armand's vines - in lieu-dit Largillas - sit just above her Les Clous vines. Largillas gives the most spectacular views of the pretty village, and have an enviable mid-slope position for a village parcel. It is always one of the best value and most characterful reds on our list. In 2022 it has a nervous, energetic character, with a fresh and juicy body.

This is a secret gem to know about. It’s made from a blend of young vine fruit and some incredible 95-year old Aligoté Doré grown in Meursault, whose tiny, golden berries are packed with vibrant flavours. The 2022 shows brilliant freshness, with verve and spice. It’s one of our buyer’s favourite whites from the region, and finds its way into her cellar every year.

This is an important vineyard both in terms of its size (a substantial 5.23 ha) and its historical stock of old vines (some now over 100 years old) which are used as a source of top quality massale selection by nurseries. That’s because its plant material is simply supreme. High-density planting and old vines means low yields are the norm, but 2022 set a new record. At 36 hl/ha this is the most abundant vintage that current régisseur, Paul Zinetti, has made since taking over in 2014. To put this in context, the limit for Pommard premier cru is 56hl/ha, so even in a bigger vintage, the concentration here is exquisite. It is another great example of the Clos, and another chance for Paul to rewrite the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only: instead this is powerful, svelte, profound, and intense. It is truly one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

This is indisputably one of the greatest premiers crus of Chassagne. 2022 is the final vintage from Domaine Fontain-Gagnard for a while as they have decided to replant the old vines in 2023, so anyone who gets the chance to buy this will no doubt treasure it. Céline mentions that their parcel is so steep that neighbours refer to it as “the ski slope”. This is a supreme example of the Fontaine-Gagnard style: savoury, salty, and long.

La Maltroie is located just up the road from the winery, near the heart of the village. The domaine owns two parcels, one of 0.56 hectares and the other 0.17 hectares. Céline says it is always approachable from early on, and is hence one of the first premiers crus to be bottled. It has a purity and freshness in 2022 that I haven’t seen before, and is clearly the fruit of not only an excellent growing season but a master in control of her art. It is more weighty than the village wine, with an extra level of depth.

Le Montrachet is the greatest of all white grands crus, and in 2022 Céline has knocked it out of the park. She chose to use exclusively second fill barrels (ie, there is no new oak here), because she wanted to let the power and majesty of the site speak for itself. She has achieved that and more, with a sensational result in 2022.

Criots is a tiny grand cru, just one and a half hectares, making Fontaine-Gagnard one of the largest owners, with one third of a hectare. The south-east-facing slope, with poor limestone soils, yields a wine with superb power and tension. But this is only achieved when the parcel is picked at just the right moment. Céline says she watches it like a hawk, catching it before the fruit ripens into the tropical spectrum.

Chassagne-Montrachet is a top pick in 2022, and Fontaine-Gagnard is a domaine to follow. This is a gorgeous wine: quintessentially Chassagne with its deliciously sleek, nutty fruit, and perfectly pitched new oak (20%). It abounds with pulpy ripe lemon that leads to a chiselled texture on the palate, and a long, appetising finish. It’s a benchmark Chassagne from one of our favourite producers, and a smart buy in 2022.

Caillerets takes its name from the tiny stones that litter the vineyard’s soil, and it’s one of the village’s most highly-prized sites. This wine in 2022 is chalky, chiselled, and distinctly of its limestone terroir. There’s spiced pear fruit on the mid-palate, too. A triumph.

Bâtard-Montrachet is never short of showy power, even in youth. It seems to have loved the style of 2022, and thrived in the conditions. It’s smoky, weighty, and concentrated, and overall an incredibly handsome wine.

This is one of many Volnay premiers crus that Marc-Olivier has at his fingertips. The site’s generous topsoil makes for a wine of appealing charm, marking it out as one of the earliest drinking of the Buffet Volnay premiers crus. The fruit is completely destemmed, and the wine has a sumptuous, succulent texture on the palate. It is sweetly scented, with intense purity of fruit. That aromatic fruit is enrobed in plush tannins, and the finish is graceful and long. Cellar for a few years, then don’t hold back.

This Volnay is floral and gently spiced, with layers of delicate aromatics. It comes from a blend of two parcels: the evocatively named Les Famines, whose paucity of soil makes the roots dig deep; and a small dash of the tiny lieu-dit, La Gigotte, which lifts this village wine up a notch. It’s entirely destemmed and the wine has a sapid, fruity, and accessible profile, with nicely grippy tannins.

This is arguably the greatest site in Volnay. Marc-Olivier is lucky to have two parcels here. The ‘young vines’ are a mere 50 years old, and the old vines very much older. Their concentration and natural complexity are honed through one third whole-bunch used in this cuvée. It is pretty racy in 2022 with an edgy freshness and a little more structure to the tannins than in Carelle sous la Chapelle.

This superb cuvée is made in tiny volumes, so there is very little to go around. Its one third whole-bunch adds a plush, pillowy texture that cushions the savoury backbone of this wine. This was absolutely brilliant in 2022.

Like the Volnay Taillepieds, this is one of the smaller cuvées in the Buffet stable. It comes from the upper part of the vineyard, planted with vines that are now well over their hundred year mark. All work here is done by horse, and the attention to detail continues in the cellar. It is swish and stylish, with plenty of toothsome power and muscular drive. Unlike some of the Volnay premiers crus from this domaine, this wine will need some time, so tuck it away for a few years.

It is well worth following Olivier’s reds, particularly in recent vintages. This vineyard had previously been owned by M. Duvault-Blochet, former owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Today, high density planting and organic farming mean low yields, which does a great service to the fruit - red berries with a smoky graphite scent lingering over them. Mineral and defined.

Les Frionnes is one of Olivier’s most important and favourite vineyards. He has an impressive clutch of five parcels within Frionnes, with vines ranging in age from 10 to 80 years old. The soil here is decomposed Kimmeridgian limestone, similar to that found in Chablis and Sancerre. This is not just an academic point - you can really feel it in the wine, which brims with oyster shells on the nose, and a Chablis-esque chiselled frame on the palate.

Clos de la Chatenière is a steep south-facing parcel enclosed by a wall, with 65-year-old vines. There are warmer red soils here, on the Puligny side of the village, and the wine is rich and exuberant. A high level of millerandages amongst the old vines produces an added concentration, and the wine displays a salty, complex character, with a serious and persuasive length.

Easily one of Burgundy’s most talked-about and fascinating wines, yet also one of its rarest, produced only in tiny quantities. It comes from a parcel high up in the hill, protected by a fringe of forest above, where Olivier has planted the vines at a density of 30,000 vines per hectare. That’s three times the density of your average Burgundy vineyard. The concentration this gives to the wines is hard to capture in words.

Santenay is one of the southern-most villages of the Côte d’Or. This sunny spot on a steep limestone slope is always picked early, and is unusually part-vinified in a glass wine globe. It has a pretty and delicate nose of white blossom and citrus peel, followed by wonderful tension and crystalline purity on the palate.

En Remilly is considered the finest vineyard in St-Aubin. Olivier Lamy’s wine is always one of its greatest, and his 2021 is truly magnificent, with soaring flavour and energy. It is so many things at once: smoky, chalky, mineral, vibrant.

The Bachelets have four parcels in this premier cru, the oldest of which were planted in 1927 and 1960. It carries the superb concentration of old-vine fruit, with juicy pineapple intensity. Harmonious, deep and precise.

Les Aubues is an enclave within Puligny’s excellent Enseignères, just below Le Bâtard-Montrachet. Les Enseignères has long been on the radar of collectors as one of the sweetest spots for any village wine on the whole Côte. This 2022 shows unbelievable persistence for a village wine, and surely any blind taster would jump to a premier cru conclusion, thanks to the layered complexity, length and texture of the wine.

Le Charmois is on a hill just next to Chassagne-Montrachet’s 1er Cru Les Chaumées. Its cool, poor limestone soil makes for a tightly powerful wine with straight, chalky freshness. There’s a spicy, fresh ginger twist to the fruit, perhaps thanks to the playful reduction going on here. It’s salty, taut and extremely good.

There are many who consider Bachelet’s Blanchot-Dessus on a par with its grand cru neighbours, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet and Le Montrachet. The vines were planted in 1927, and this old-vine wine has the presence and stature of its grand cru neighbours. Its shyness in youth will be transformed into majesty with age. Put it away for a few years to see what it can really do.

The domaine used to - technically - rent these vines from Jean-Marc’s mother, Lydie’s grandmother. She passed away three years ago and since then the domaine has inherited the two parcels, from which they make this fabulous wine. It has a power and depth that sets it apart from the premiers crus, with precision and length promising a superb evolution in bottle.

With seven parcels scattered across three hectares, of which five are located in Enseignères (a highly-regarded vineyard that touches the grands crus), this Puligny is one of the most complete and quintessential you’ll find. In 2022 you’ll find both richness and freshness. It is packed with a pure and juicy peach character, and a saline thread of acidity driving right through to the finish. Great tension.

This is one of the finest sites in Puligny. It has some of the poorest soil in the village, and the wines it produces often soar to another level, 2022 being no exception. It has a cool, steely, mineral style, and a delicious bitterness, like that of freshly sliced pink grapefruit. It’s concentrated, showing impressive linear attack to the acidity, continuing right through the long, saline finish.

This comes from the Meursault side of the village, and has attractive yet delicate white blossom and peach notes on the nose, followed by great weight, impressively bright stone fruit concentration, and a linear drive to the acidity on the palate. As always, this promises a complex development.

The Boillots’ tiny but highly-regarded Combettes is situated between Les Referts and Champ Canet, at the top of the Puligny slope. It’s outstanding in 2022, with its peachy, rich, voluminous yet deceptively tender fruit, and taut acidity. There is grand cru-esque complexity here.

The Boillot family have two parcels here, which together amount to just over one hectare. It is scented with pithy citrus and just a hint of mango, and the palate has a zingy, salty drive. This is tightly coiled, concentrated, textural Puligny with laser-sharp definition.

The Pillots don’t rush anything these days, even the bottling of their Bourgogne, which along with their Chassagnes, spends two winters in the cellar before being bottled. This time allows the wine to fill out, and take on a seriousness and depth which pitches the wine well above its lowly classification. It has a sweet nectarine intensity and a fleshy, vibrant length. It comes from various parcels all around the village of Chassagne, which is 100% domaine fruit.

Jean-Marc makes some of the best Chassagne Rouge around. With many old vines planted on the clay soil pockets around the village, he has produced a great example in 2022. This old vine cuvée has a fabulous spiced plum aroma on the nose, with textural red fruit detail on the palate. You’ll find lacy, fine-grained tannins of the highest order here.

This is a brilliant example of what Pinot Noir can do in Chassagne when you combine old vines and serious winemaking. The poor soils of Clos St Jean have long been one of the hotspots for Pinot in the village, and Jean-Marc counts himself lucky to have inherited this parcel of 100+ year old vines. He likes to make a gourmand style you can approach from youth, but don’t let that make you think this is lacking in concentration or sophistication. This 2022 is sitting emphatically in the elegant red fruit spectrum, and the wine shows a level of freshness, detail and precision that lifts it up to great heights.

Les Vergers sits at the village’s northern border with St-Aubin, on the slope just above Les Chenevottes. The wine is floral, detailed, and open and charming in its youth. The palate is concentrated and textured: there’s real weight to the fruit. It finishes with impressive power.

This excellent vineyard is on the lower slopes of Puligny, just above Les Enseignères, and directly below the grands crus. It’s classically Puligny on the nose, mineral and restrained, while the palate is peachy and elegant. It is a highlight in 2022, showing an intricate balance between density of fruit and juicy acidity.

This is from three of the village’s best communal sites: Les Pierres (94-year-old vines), Mazures (40+), and Houillères (30+). The younger vines give lift, elegance and a vibrant drive, while the older vines give depth and power. It shows a light lemon scent on the nose, with a fresh, linear drive of acidity on the palate.

Les Chenevottes has slightly deeper soils than some neighbouring vineyards, and the 70-year-old vines, with their deep roots, have endured the extreme summer heat of recent years in relative comfort. The wine is taut and chiselled yet there’s a suppleness to the fruit, and a citrus, salty twist on the nose. It shows excellent control and delicious texture.

There are Nuits’ classic structured, abundant, open tannins, giving the wine a broad feeling across the palate. The fruit shows great red fruit character, with a little spice and lift. It should do well with a few years in bottle.

This vineyard bordering Pommard did once produce wines with some robust, muscular tannins. But now that they have reached 70+ years, the tannins have begun to soften, becoming distinctly finer in recent years. It shows a touch of blueberry fruit, with plush, structural tannins.

Along with Ghislaine’s Beaux Bruns in Chambolle, this is always one of the first parcels to be picked in the Boillot/Barthod cellars. It shows some nice red fruit angles (no pun intended), with ripe, fine tannins. There’s a little cinnamon and pink peppercorn spice in the background, too.

This outstanding premier cru in St-Aubin sits on top of the hill that peaks between Chassagne and St-Aubin, just behind Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. The wine is a blend of five parcels within En Remilly, with different soils and elevation. It expresses the vineyard’s natural tendency to floral, peachy fruit, with mineral tension underneath. The 2022 has an aromatic ripeness, with a controlled volume and rippling freshness.

The cuvée is named after Damien and Caroline’s grandmother, Lucie, whose nickname was ‘Luce’. Its personalised moniker hints at how fond the family are of this wine, which is a blend of three parcels in the village. It’s a brilliant portrait of St-Aubin, with chalky intensity and tender stone fruit length.

This vineyard straddles the village boundary between Puligny and Chassagne and is well regarded as a top-flight village parcel, with the likes of Coche-Dury also producing a single vineyard cuvée from this site. Its position just beneath Bâtard-Montrachet goes a long way in explaining its superior quality. It is detailed, lacy and precise. The 70-year-old vines in this parcel deliver wonderfully sophisticated and complex fruit; its ageing potential for its village status is astounding. Treat this like a premier cru, and don’t hesitate to hold for ten years if you can resist.

This is a blend of three parcels, from Chassagne, Puligny and St-Aubin. The Chassagne fruit gives fleshiness, with Puligny and St Aubin giving tension and persistence. It’s got a length and clarity that set it above your average Bourgogne Blanc, and a smart buy.

Blagny sits high up, 400m above the heart of the Meursault commune. This altitude brings a focused freshness to the wines. It has notes of ripe citrus and yellow apricot, with a richly mineral seashell note - not unlike Chablis - on the nose. The soil is white limestone up here, and this makes for a scintillating palate. It feels straighter than the Grands Charrons, in many ways, more like a Puligny in profile than a Meursault. Saline, mineral, and powerful.

You can feel the character of the poor stony soil found in Puligny here in this wine’s floral, racy delicacy. It has a piercing, slightly spicy intensity accompanied by a tenderness of fruit on the finish. Enticing, with intricate structure and superb definition.

This is one of Meursault’s finest vineyards, shared amongst some of its greatest growers. It’s a clear step up in the Bouzereau line-up: textural, precise and enduring. Complexity abounds.

This is a Bourgogne full of lemony freshness and delicious energy. The fruit for this blend comes from three sites in Meursault (making up 60%), with the remainder from a single plot in Puligny. In spite of their Bourgogne classification, these sites are high quality, knocking on the door of village level, with shallow topsoil and lots of small stones, aiding drainage.

This is one of the gems on our list: it may be village on paper, but this exceptionally well-placed parcel - an east-facing limestone vineyard that extends just beyond the band of premiers crus - delivers well beyond its status in the glass. It has a peachy definition and that great Meursault structure - plenty of ripeness combined with the thrilling freshness of the year. It has more ample fruit than the Bourgogne with a voluminous length.

Only in years of relative abundance and quality do the domaine make this cuvée which is a selection of fruit from only the oldest vines (70-75 years old). They sit just below Santenots-du-Milieu, and the wine shows an even greater level of intensity and length than the already impressive village Meursault.

In 2022 the vines celebrated their 101st birthday (not that anyone’s counting), and lay claim to being oldest vines of the domaine. And although their home village of Volnay is what many people think of when they hear Lafarge, their noble Beaune holdings are equally highly regarded, with Grèves the finest. This is a complete thrill in 2022.

This vineyard has been owned by the Lafarge family since the domaine was founded, and is arguably their most famous wine. It is often serious and intense in its youth, but can also show wonderful sweetness of fruit and pretty minerality in youth, it’s hard to imagine it shutting down. Nevertheless, experience dictates that this wine will benefit from some time in the cellar, and given time, its true potential will be realised.

For many, Lafarge is Volnay. This is a blend of their lower-lying parcels of village Volnay, four of which lie on the Pommard side, and two on the Meursault side. This wine is always elegant and perfumed, with an expressive silky frame. The fruit spectrum is distinctly red here, and the wine feels poised and sweetly ripe, whilst remaining taut and fresh.

The Lafarge family’s parcels of Chardonnay lie on the Volnay side of Meursault, naturally. The vines are over 50 years old, and the wine shows lovely freshness and volume of fruit in 2022.

The Lafarges always pick their Aligoté a couple of weeks after the main harvest, and rely on the small clutch of family members rather than the main harvest team, to bring the fruit in. The vines are approaching 90 years of age, and yield only tiny volumes of beautiful, characterful fruit, producing a wine with superb phenolic complexity. The small golden-skinned berries of the ‘raisins dorés’ clone produce a richness and incredible energy.

This comes from a small parcel of the oldest vines (100 years+) at the top of the Lafarges’ co-planted Pinot Noir and Gamay parcel. It’s the third appearance for this cuvée, which was also made in 2018 and 2020. Frédéric sees it as a Passetoutegrains with the ability to age, and will therefore only bottle it in magnum format.

This parcel, right in the centre of the village, has been owned by the Lafarge family since 2005. It has an ideal mid-slope position, and produces a floral wine with great tension and an intense fruit core: quintessential Volnay. So pure and long, with a velvety structure.

Produced in every vintage since the foundation of the domaine, this 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, produced from co-planted vines, is one of Burgundy’s bargains. It shows a fine fruit expression with appetising astringency and a moreish sour cherry character.

Although their home village of Volnay is what many people think of when they hear Lafarge, their noble Beaune holdings are equally highly regarded. This is fine-boned, with grip, focus and fabulous tension, and will make fine old bones.

This tiny monopole vineyard is just 0.57 hectares, and along with the Clos des Chênes, is the jewel in the Lafarge crown. They have bottled it separately since 1985, and it has since become their most sought-after release. The grapes are destemmed by hand, such is the reverence in which the family hold this site: in their eyes, a grand cru. It has a texture that can only be described as lacy: so fine, so complex, intricate, and detailed.

This comes from the family’s best parcels in the village - in Les Grands Champs, Les Pluchots, La Gigotte, and Ez Echards, all of which border the premiers crus just above. It has a dialled up complexity and depth of fruit, with slightly more emphatic tannins, making it a great candidate for ageing.

This is the Pillots’ largest premier cru, and it lies just up the road from their cellar. It is the emblematic cuvée of the domaine, and a brilliant buy every vintage. The 2022 has tension and saline length, with a nervous energy that lingers long after tasting.

Les Pitangerets straddles Chassagne-Montrachet and St-Aubin, and sits just above Les Chenevottes. It’s a St Aubin of considerable tension, with the signature Pillot energy running through the middle. Racy and so long.

This vineyard is widely regarded as one of the finest in the village. The white pebbly limestone soils make for racy wines, sharing much in common with the best Puligny-Montrachets, but with the nutty, savoury twist of Chassagne. Old vines give it a richness and density setting it apart.