Bigger bottles for Bank Holidays

The 2019 Bricco delle Ciliegie from Giovanni Almondo is an astonishingly good expression of the Arneis grape. Incredibly complex, notes of orange blossom, rosemary, and pine needles swirl from the glass. The palate is textured and savoury, with a core of fresh conference pears, and a thread of acidity that makes this so thirst-quenching.

Undoubtedly the standout wine of the Roero zone, the 2017 Bricco delle Ciliegie doesn't disappoint. There's richness and roundness here, that comes from some clay in the soil, but also stunning tension and coolness to the fruit. The texture on the saline finish is wonderful - it has you reaching straight for another glass.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

With a few years of bottle age, this is hitting its stride. Pithy and mineral, with just a hint of honey and freshly cut herbs, the price of this is astonishing. Complex, long, and stunningly delicious.

Brazen is a blend of Fernao Pires - from 37 year old vineyards in the Swartland - alongside amphora-aged Palomino from a 47 year old vineyard in Piekenierskloof, and Grenache Blanc from the Voor Paardeberg. It’s a savoury, textured, vibrant white, with a mineral finish that lasts for minutes.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.

This is the flagship wine of the estate, and offers the best of Muscadet: pale lemon yellow, a little citrus and blossom on the nose, an elegant, defined length, with some savoury structure from lees ageing bringing it all together. This is an absolutely charming Muscadet. In 2019 it has an effortless freshness, and poised balance.

From seven different vineyards, planted on different soils, with planting dates ranging from 1968 to 1985. This is the best yet: suave and silky, with just enough palate weight and a lovely thread of acidity.

A contender for Italy's greatest white, the 2018 La Rocca has loads of bright peach fruit, notes of greengage, and lots of stem ginger on the finish. It's a real joy: a wine that blossoms in the glass. And these magnums are beautiful.

The 2018 Batàr is absolutely brilliant. Tense and vibrant, and incredibly fine-boned, there's such potential here. One of Italy's greatest whites.

Taittinger's Brut Reserve is always a benchmark, and this is just gorgeous. So much freshness and purity on the palate, with brioche notes and a long, seashell infused finish. Brilliant.

Brut Premier is dead, long live Collection! The first major release of the new Collection - 242 - is based on the 2017 harvest, but in fact, the house did make a Collection wine the year before, and decided to bottle the wine exclusively in magnums. The Roederer house dates back to 1776, and the name pays homage to the 241st harvest since then. Its arrival marks the end of the line of the Brut Premier cuvée. It was an idea that started in 2002, deep in the Roederer cellars, that has finally been realised by master winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon. He wanted to make a multi-vintage wine that captured the essence of the Roederer style, and differentiated the nuance of the vintages in the blend. In 2012 he started a perpetual reserve, with young vine fruit from the biodynamic parcels usually dedicated to the production of Cristal. The heart of the 241 blend comes from the 2016 harvest, 10% from reserve wines (spanning 2009 to 2015), and 34% from the perpetual reserve. It’s only a small step up in price on the Brut Premier, but we are convinced it is a huge leap up in quality and style.

La Genelotte is a monopole of Laurent’s, to the north of Blagny itself and high on the hill above Meursault. Incredibly mineral and structured, this is quite lovely. There’s explosive, juicy fruit, real drive and a satisfyingly clean finish. It’s nervy and young, but very impressive.

The dry white from Yquem, the 2020 is gorgeous. Pithy and savoury, with loads of tension and a long, mineral finish. This is just so drinkable - and it looks stunning, too.