Austria’s spectacular 2021s

This was picked early, to ensure that a Federspiel could be made. It’s cool on the nose, with notes of lemon sherbet, and then grapefruit and plenty of freshness. There’s outstanding minerality, and plenty of precision on the finish. This lingers. Lovely.

This is the largest production of the estate, from two plots at the top of the hill, Postaler and Gaisberg, and then one from the bottom of the hill. It balances the richness and power of the bottom of the hill with the freshness of the top. This is so precise with lovely weight, and there’s salinity, a slightly oily texture, and an almost sweet and sour character. There’s lots of spice on the long finish.

This sees a little skin contact. It’s really textured, with incredible density. This fills the mouth, there’s a coolness here, but also explosive fruit, floral notes, and just a hint of herbal notes too. This is brilliant.

Stein is a district within Krems, at the most western end of the area, near Wachau. This comes from a terraced vineyard, with plenty of sand in the soil. Lots of spice on the nose, lots of stone fruit too. Slightly smoky, really nice vibrant fruit, and there’s a breadth that comes across the palate. A hint of bitterness on the finish,

Traditionally every house would have some vines to ensure they had a yield every year. This is a field blend of 7 different varieties: Frühroter Veltliner, Grüner Veltliner, Neubeuger, Moscatella, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Müller-Thurgau. It comes from the north, from the Aiglesee above krems - so vines at high altitude, at 450m above sea level. Formerly this was too cold for quality grapes, but with climate change it’s now realising its potential. This has lovely freshness, good concentration, and good sense of acidity. This is really delicious and approachable. It’s very pure and tangy and pithy.