Austria’s spectacular 2021s

This was picked early, to ensure that a Federspiel could be made. It’s cool on the nose, with notes of lemon sherbet, and then grapefruit and plenty of freshness. There’s outstanding minerality, and plenty of precision on the finish. This lingers. Lovely.

This is the largest production of the estate, from two plots at the top of the hill, Postaler and Gaisberg, and then one from the bottom of the hill. It balances the richness and power of the bottom of the hill with the freshness of the top. This is so precise with lovely weight, and there’s salinity, a slightly oily texture, and an almost sweet and sour character. There’s lots of spice on the long finish.

The altitude here means it is picked late: one part at the end of October, and the other parts on November 10th and 11th. The resulting wine is so complex and intense, with an explosive palate of apricots, sea spray, and so much freshness. This is incredibly ripe, but is impeccably balanced with intense acidity. It’s a spectacularly pure, long, wine: one of the best we’ve tried this year.

From the bottom of the Kollmitz hill, Spitaler is a single vineyard, and this cuvée comes from just the old vines here, which were planted in 1962. This is so energetic with dark spice and an earthy character. This has so much phenolic freshness, with lots of intense, creamy fruit. Voluminous in the mouth, it all comes back together on the finish.

Some of the vines here were planted in the 1950s, with a small portion in 2002. This is intense and stony, with more vibrant acidity than the Spitaler. It’s more angular in the mouth, with lots of wild flowers and plenty of nervy acidity. It needs time, but when it comes together it will be spectacular.

Planted at 500 metres altitude in the Sieber vineyard, this 1 hectare plot is made up of 25 different Riesling clones from 1980s plantings. The acidity is always zesty and energetic from a site that benefits from diurnal temperature shifts. This wine is mineral driven on the core with a saltiness and spice that is breathtaking, yet there is a denisty and richness that also contributes towards this wine's delisciousness. It would definitely benefit from a bit of time in bottle and you will be rewarded with a wine that is complex and showcases what incredibly Austrian Riesling can offer.

Klaus was planted in the early 50s and is situated next to Achleiten on Bodenstein's steepest vineyard sites that is a small 0.73 hectares. This wine is often quite strict in its profile until it has had some time in bottle, yet the 2021 is singing already. Red apple, lemon and grapefruit citrus combine with a steely and herbal note. White peach and jasmine aromas combine with a pithiness on the finish.

The Riesling vines are situated on 25 incredibly steep terraces on a site that is gneiss rich on the East of Weissenkirchen. Expect mandarin, fleshy peach and lemon citrus notes combined with a breadth and concentration on the palate that is perfectly balanced against the crisp acidity. The length on the finish is stunning.

Steinriegel is to the West of Weissenkirchen on a 4.6 hectare plot that compared to Prager's pther sites contains no gneiss, but is dominated by a distinct and rare white chalk silicate marble. This is a cool site and demonstrates peach, lime and jasmine notes. Subtle ginger spice notes and red apple aromas combine with a juicy core.

Coming from vines in the village of Weissenkirchen and translated as 'behind the castle', this Federspiel level wine at 12.5% is glorious and one that you don't have to wait to drink to appreciate. Red apple and citrus notes are supported by a juicy acidity. The palate has an approachable creaminess, yet it is carefully balanced with a grapefruit pithiness on the finish that provides clarity and focus.

With over 70 terraces of vines in the highly regarded Achleiten vineyard in Weissenkirchen, this vineyard is extremely diverse with plantings over 60 years old. This wine always displays an attractive white blossom aroma with hints of citrus and pear. The palate has a weight and silkiness as well as having a steely character and crisp acidity that provides a linear profile.

"Stockkultur" refers to the individually staked vines trained low on seriously steep terraces from the Achleiten vineyard, that is incredibly labour intensive. The vines come the family's oldest vineyard holdings, from 1930s plantings that are situated in the middle terrace on a 0.65 hectare plot that is dominated by micha schist soils. Slightly richer in style, expect more exotic fruits and spice, yet the salinity on the core and the brisk acidity gives the wine direction and precision.

Situated at the top of the Achleiten vineyard planted at 500 metres this wine is considered to be one of Prager's Grand Cru wines. Crazily the vineyard is made up of 110 different clones that helps produce wine that is so interesting and complex. There is a lot to happening in this wine and it will surely get better and better with time in bottle. Pear, white flowers, stony and flinty notes are supported by a ginger spice and phenolic grip on the palate. The concentration and length is sensational and this wine does not disappoint.

2015 was the first vintage of Zwerithaler (meaning "nestled in the valleys" for Prager, who have a 100 year lease on this site that is owned by the monestary. Kammergut is a 0.34 hectare parcel that was planted before World War I on ungrafted vines, in a site that Toni Bodenstein likens to Klaus with paragneiss and calcareous soil. Production is limited on this Buschenberg plot and this wine shows restrained concentration. Still so, so youthful and with incredible potential for the future. Flinty, stony and white blossom aromas combine with a saline and edgy core.

A blend of some of Knoll's prime vineyards surrounding the village of Unterloiben, this wine offers layers of complexity that a multi vineyard site can offer. Jasmine, lime, red apple and steely aromas are supported by notes of white blossom and grapefruit pith. There is a focus and linear character to the core as well as a creaminess that adds body and depth.

Gelber Muskateller is one of the oldest grape varieties and rather sadly, very little is still planted today. Attractive floral notes of jasmine combined with elderflower and sweet spice are evident on the nose and are supported by layers of citrus and yellow peach on the palate. The wine displays similar qualities to the Muscat variety, yet the Muskateller delivers a greater vibrancy and level of acidity that gives the wine an energy and salinity.

Delicious aromas of white peach, grapefruit and pepper spice. The linear palate is balanced to perfection with a concentration and juiciness that can be attributed to the superb 2021 vintage.

Knoll has a south facing plot that helps create a perfectly generous and almost edging towards the exotic style of Gruner. Its almost 100% Loess soil however helps retain more water to enable the grapes to keep their freshness as well as the additional texture and roundness you would expect from Loibenberg. Ginger spice, pineapple and lemongrass aromas continue on the palate, combined with juicy apricot and red apple as well as a crisp acidity on the palate. Long and concentrated core.

This comes from mineral vineyards, not from Loess. It’s delicate, with notes of iodine and then a floral element. The finish spreads out and then there’s a bitterness here, too. This is explosive and very pure. This is a spectacular Grüner. So much oyster shell on the finish, and brilliantly balanced. Love this: very driven style.

This is the vineyard up the Spitzergraben, the coolest site, on the corner of the valley, where the cool air comes down from the plateau. Very precise and quite savoury on the nose. There’s notes of mint and plenty of stone fruit, and then an orange blossom character, too. So much vibrancy here: this has so much acidity, but nothing sticks out. This has everything dialled up.

Seven different batches, then blended together. Have vines from bottom to very top of hill. Bottom much riper typically, while the top is focussed. Together they are greater than the sum of its parts. The nose here is beguiling. Quite restrained, there’s some floral and spice, while the palate is concentrated and powerful. It fills the palate, with weight and texture, this is muscular and complex, and spectacularly long. Oyster shell and spice and pure fruit. Astounding. But rare.

From 100% Loess Soil, near the church. This borders where Honivogl comes from (which could also be called Axpoint). Creamier on the nose, lots of pineapple. Lots of palate weight here, there’s tons of ripe and intense fruit, and an amazing weight and length. This is supple and lots of spice: an almost christmassy feel to the finish.

Honivogl was the old owner’s name. On the border of Singerriedel and Axpoint, so it’s found in the outflow of Singerriedel. This smells pretty spectacular. So much intensity and then there’s a coolness to the fruit, and that lovely palate weight. Lots of dark spice here, and there’s opulent fruit, but there’s so much minerality and salinity on the finish, and so much power. This is impressively textured, and very long.

The ‘baby Heiligenstein’ is astonishing in 2021. There’s incredible richness to the fruit, and there’s a weight and density here. The palate has a purity and detail to the yellow fruit, and there’s a texture and expressiveness that goes on and on.