Alpine Wines

The first, and the most important wine of the estate, is the Sassella Valtellina Superiore ‘Grisone’. In 2017, it was the only wine they made, and therefore includes fruit from all three of the estate’s vineyards, with schist terraces between 350m and 550m above sea level, including the old Mossino vineyard, with vines of over 100 years old. Delicate in colour, but with incredibly vibrant fruit, notes of wild berries, freshly cut herbs, and lots of floral notes, this is a brilliant Nebbiolo.

Alfio makes a tiny quantity - just 2,000 bottles - of Sforzato di Valtellina: an Amarone-like dry wine, made from dried Nebbiolo grapes. Still delicate in colour, the nose is beautifully perfumed: this is recognisably Nebbiolo. The palate has a weight and power to it, and notes of dried fruit and dried herbs, but it doesn’t have the overripeness of Amarone. Brilliantly balanced, and very long and finely judged.

In the finest vintages, such as 2016, Alfio makes a tiny quantity of Riserva, with just 2,500 bottles produced in 2016. This all comes from the Mossino vineyard, their highest plot, planted in an amphitheatre that points due south. A blend of old and young vines, and a little of the high-acid Rossola, creates a wine of incredible focus, purity, and intensity. The nose here is so mineral, with a slight iodine note and blood orange, and a very long finish.

This comes from a few different vineyards, at 400 metres above sea level, with vineyards cooled by the Ora del Garda wind that blows in the afternoon here. A beautiful salmon tinge to this, and the nose points to real complexity. Lovely vibrancy, notes of peach skin and orange blossom, and also a hint of phenolic bitterness keeping everything balanced. Really lovely.

Nosiola is the only autochthonous (indigenous) white variety in Trentino, with its origins dating back at least to the 16th century. There are debates as to the origins of its name: some claim it’s due to the hazelnut (“nocciola”) colour that the grapes and stems take on at full ripeness; others point to the slight aroma of fresh hazelnuts when the grape is picked. An almost Riesling note on the nose, with hints of lime blossom and loads of intense fruit. There’s a savouriness here, and also a weight on the palate. Very finely judged, with just a hint of more exotic fruit coming through on the back palate, and a lovely, mouthwatering, phenolic finish.

From the historic Olivar vineyard comes a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Bianco: a serious and complex white that blossoms with a few years in the bottle. The vineyard, and the wine, take their name from a centuries-old olive tree that overlooks the vines, and here the altitude of 450m as well as protection from northerly winds makes a very special microclimate. There’s lots of palate weight here, with hints of oak spice, ripe peaches, and a lovely thread of acidity. More weighty than the other wines, there’s a long and savoury finish.

Les Murets comes from the commune of Villette. It’s a delicate, elegant expression of Chasselas: the perfect introduction to the grape. From sandy, chalky soils, it’s a mineral, floral wine, ideal with lighter dishes. Notes of rose petal and watermelon, and a lovely savoury lift on the finish. Very good value.

Les Hauts de Pierre is the pinnacle of Blaise’s production. It comes from a single parcel of old vine Chasselas, and is powerful, textured, and intense, almost reminiscent of top Burgundy. This 2019 is a little closed, but with texture and purity on the palate, it points to a long life ahead. The salinity and leesy complexity on the palate lasts an age, with notes of citrus and more savoury elements unfurling over time: this is a remarkable Swiss white.

These vines are planted on degraded Lias clay, which contributes to the soaring tension on the mid-palate of this wine. It has a smoky base, with citrus top notes. Tingling minerality swirls throughout. There is a magnificent density to this wine. Tuck it away for a few years to enjoy it in its full glory.

This is the ‘insider’s tip’ in the Tissot range. It comes from a 0.6 hectare parcel of very old Chardonnay vines planted within the Château-Chalon appellation (usually planted with Savagnin for the world class vins jaunes produced there). "Sursis" means "reprieve" in French - Stéphane had planned to grub the vines up when he bought the plot to plant Savagnin for Vin jaune, but the limestone soils here produce such a fantastic, mineral wine that he couldn't bring himself to do it. It has a purity and freshness that sets it apart. Ageing on lees gives it a subtle richness that counterbalances its austere tension. Rare and wonderful.

Indigène is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot noir and 5% each of Poulsard and Trousseau. Its name refers to the use of only natural ingredients in its winemaking: primary fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and secondary fermentation initiated by the addition of Stéphane's own liqueur de tirage, made from the domaine’s own, fermenting straw wine. It is creamy and gently sparkling, with a vinous character running through the palate. It is one of the finest examples of its type

This wine is a labour of love. The Trousseau bunches are hand destemmed before undergoing carbonic maceration for three weeks, followed by a further two weeks maceration with gentle plunging. The wine has a beautiful aroma of rhubarb and raspberries, with a pure, red berry thread of acidity weaving through the palate. Light, but firm, this is a fresh and energetic example of Jurassic reds.

This cuvée is an homage to Stéphane's father, André (dédé/DD) who began making this wine. It is a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard which is made in a "glouglou" style without sulphur for easy drinking. Its long, gentle fermentation and ageing in hundred-year-old foudres preserve the natural freshness of the varieties. It is bottled with a little more CO2 than most wines to compensate for the lack of added sulphur dioxide. This provides a prickle of freshness, and a quick carafing might be advised. This quintessentially Jurassic red is wonderful for early, easy drinking.

As the name suggests, this is made up of a patchwork of terroirs across the domaine, and produces a benchmark Jura Chardonnay. It is the perfect introduction to the Chardonnay range here, which is a tour de force of single site expression. The average age of vines is around 50 years, which is fairly senior for an ‘entry’ wine. The long fermentation in barrel (10% new) has produced complex layers of flavours, with curry, fenugreek and saline freshness, with a silky texture. There is that classica nutty Jura reduction on the finish. Some attractive fruitiness on the palate means it will drink well from early on.

Unlike the Savagnin barrels that go into the production of vin jaune and Château-Chalon, these are topped up regularly, protecting the wine from developing the characteristic oxidative notes of those wines. Instead this is fresh, bright, and vibrant with a pithy, waxy citrus fruit energy. An increasingly popular style, nevertheless still produced in tiny quantities.

This is a south-facing site with Trias clay soil. It often displays the most warmth of Stéphane's single-vineyard Chardonnays, and in 2018 it has the power and silky persistence of the vintage on full display. Smoky, spicy, nutty, energetic, and perfectly weighted.

This cuvée is an homage to Stéphane's father, André (dédé/DD) who began making this wine. It is a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard which is made in a "glouglou" style without sulphur for easy drinking. Its long, gentle fermentation and ageing in hundred-year-old foudres preserve the natural freshness of the varieties. It is bottled with a little more CO2 than most wines to compensate for the lack of added sulphur dioxide. This provides a prickle of freshness, and a quick carafing might be advised. This quintessentially Jurassic red is wonderful for early, easy drinking.

This limestone site sits on the lower part of the slope beneath the Tour de Curon. This is the most Burgundian of the single vineyard sites, with a serious savoury and citrus expression, with a plump cushion of stone fruit at its core.

This is Stéphane's "Grand Cru", and comes from a superb walled vineyard that encloses the eponymous tower, overlooking the town of Arbois. Its old vines and limestone soils produce outstanding wines every year, though in tiny quantities. There is huge intensity in the wine, that benefits from a little air when poured. As you swirl it, layers of nutmeg, Amalfi lemon, crystalised ginger, and jasmine scent emerge. It has so much drive and persistence on the palate, and it is not unreasonable to compare it with Grand Cru white Burgundy. World class.

This vin jaune always has a deeper fruit expression than the others. It is quivering with energy, and salty intensity on the length. Wonderful.

Stéphane Tissot is at his best when making vins jaunes. This single vineyard example comes from a site with a mixture of Lias and Trias soils. Its smoky aroma recals whilsky, and its nutty, zappy, dry palate is just crying out to accompany some 24 month aged Comté.

Château-Chalons are some of the most age-worthy and unique wines in the world. The Lias clay and limestone soils of the appellation, that clings to the steep slopes that rise up to the eponymous fortified hilltop village produce a complexity and intensity of fruit in the Savagnin grown here. The biological ageing - much like that found in Sherry - where the barrels are left to slowly evaporate over time allowing a layer of flor (wild yeast) to form on top of the wine, makes for some of the most complex flavour profiles in the wine world. Incredibly intense, but also so pure and light on its feet. One of the finest examples of its type.

Château-Chalons are some of the most age-worthy and unique wines in the world. The Lias clay and limestone soils of the appellation, that clings to the steep slopes that rise up to the eponymous fortified hilltop village produce a complexity and intensity of fruit in the Savagnin grown here. The biological ageing - much like that found in Sherry - where the barrels are left to slowly evaporate over time allowing a layer of flor (wild yeast) to form on top of the wine, makes for some of the most complex flavour profiles in the wine world. Incredibly intense, but also so pure and light on its feet. One of the finest examples of its type.

This special cuvée of Vin Jaune has been aged for two years more than the required six year minimum for this wine style. The extra ageing adds intensity of expression and concentration of nutty, almond flavour. It is made from a 50/50 blend of vines in En Spois (grown on Trias clay soils) and a parcel just next to the Tour de Curon (grown on Lias clay soil). Just 6 barrels were made, and aged uniquely in a warm cellar. By the time of bottling, 4 of the barrels had no flor veil so the wines aged along the lines of an Amontillado, giving a more oxidative and powerful expression of Vin Jaune.

65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan. A beautiful pale ruby from a super-star Savoie domaine. It is lightly scented with wild cherries, Alpine strawberries, and a light graphite smokiness. Its sappy adicity and fine sweet tannins combine in this distinctive and delicious mountain red.

65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan. 2018’s warm season has lent this a depth of dark cherry and wild berry core, married with the cool smoky freshness of the high-altitude region. Supple, salty tannins, and a long balanced finish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Mondeuse Blanche. Apple-scented, textured, and refreshing. The slight yeasty character adds depth and weight, and its soaring acidity gives it a tangy grip, with its briny length making it so moreish. Domaine des Ardoisières on top form.

Schiste, from a blend of Jacquère, Roussanne, Mondeuse Blanche, and Pinot Gris, is a wine that’s astonishingly tense and vibrant, that comes from the vineyards that overlook Cevins. It benefits from decanting, and could do with a year or two in bottle.

From the remarkable vineyards overlooking Cévins comes the red Améthyste, a blend of Persan and Mondeuse that’s as pure and mineral a red as you’ll come across.

Schiste, from a blend of Jacquère, Roussanne, Mondeuse Blanche, and Pinot Gris, is a wine with beautiful tension from this super-star Savoie domaine. It comes from the vineyards that overlook Cevins in the Savoie's Alpine foothills. It benefits from decanting, and could do with a year or two in bottle. Notes of thyme and anise, with a core of citrus fruit, give way to a long and stony finish.

From the remarkable vineyards overlooking Cévins comes the red Améthyste, a blend of Persan and Mondeuse that’s as pure and mineral a red as you’ll come across. Notes of blueberry and mountain herbs on the nose, with a silky, smoky palate that has remarkable poise. This is a stunning wine from Brice.

The Petite Arvine is intense and savoury. There’s peaches here, and plenty of savoury spice, with notes of fresh ginger and a long and textured finish. Very saline on the finish: makes you reach for another glass.

Heida, made from the Savagnin Blanc grape, is citrus, driven, and ageworthy. Lots of lime blossom and fresh lemons on the palate, with lovely texture. Very good.

Robert’s Chasselas, here known as Fendant, comes from old vines and is delicate and floral. Notes of rose petal and fresh orange peel, and a vibrant thread of acidity. Delicious.

The Cornalin is floral, delicate, and a brilliant example of a mountain red. Notes of wild herbs and very pure morello cherry fruit make this a brilliant match for charcuterie, and other mountain fare.

The Humagne Rouge is juicy and floral, with silky tannins, and a slightly savoury finish. Notes of cherries and plenty of fresh spice complete the picture on a delicious wine.

Of Robert’s international varieties, his Syrah is our pick: it’s a peppery, dark fruited wine, with silky tannins and an elegance that wouldn’t look totally out of place a few hundred kilometres down the Rhône in Côte-Rôtie.

Always a real favourite, this Petite Arvine balances ripe, mouthfilling fruit, with taut acidity and a real savouriness. It's a charming white, and brilliant when paired with mountain food

This cool, unoaked Chardonnay is a beautiful pale gold colour, with a crisp, fresh, and inviting nose. Understated and racy, the palate is pretty and delicate, with a fine line of acidity and nicely detailed fruit: greengage and zippy lemon. It’s a brilliant aperitif wine from the cool Jura hillsides, and outstanding value for money.

Les Filles has earned a cult following. Each year the humorous label changes, and many of the 2016's predecessors have become collector's items. The wine is made from Bergeron, which is the local Savoie name for Roussanne. It shares much of the peachy, stone fruit ripeness you'd find in the Rhône, but with a verve all of its own. It is rich, bright, vibrant, and superbly long. Its weight and poise make it a great match with food. Gilles Berlioz is a passionate practicioner of organic farming and a benchmark producer in the Savoie.

‘Le Pape d’Arbois’, Jacques Puffeney, retired in 2014, selling his vineyards to Marquis d’Angerville and Domaine du Palican. He retained, however, his stock, including the slowly ageing vins jaunes - his most sought after and venerable wines. This 2011 therefore represents one of the final vintages that will bear Jacques’ name; its scarcity cannot be over-emphasised. Neither can its quality. This late-harvest Savagnin has been aged under flor in oak barrels for six years, developing a dizzyingly complex character: ginger, cardamom, walnuts, preserved lemons, curry. A superb match with the local Jura cheeses, or one of the most satisfying aperitifs you could find. One of the rarest wines on our list.

Macle produces just a tiny amount of topped-up Chardonnay barrels, and even then, only in certain years. The fruit is drawn from the vineyards surrounding Château-Chalon on limestone-clay soils. The wine is vibrating with energy, with a rich, profound texture. Characteristic salinity marks it out as typically Jurassic, in spite of its non-oxidative style.

This is a 100% Chardonnay wine, aged sous voile (under flor), has classic oxidative notes. The fruit comes from limestone-clay soils on north-facing slopes surrounding Château-Chalon. Whilst the ageing is much shorter than for a vin jaune, this wine shares much of its characteristics, with saline depth, and spicy complexity. Its lighter frame makes it ideal for earlier drinking than a vin jaune, and is a brilliant foil for food.

Vin jaune is a Macle speciality, and Château-Chalon is the grand cru appellation for the style. This Savagnin wine was aged for six years ‘sous voile’ in their cellars, developing complex aromas of curry, crystalised ginger, dried figs, and salted nuts. Ageing amplifies the grape variety’s natural tendency to these complex, savoury flavours. 2010 is one of the finest recent vintages for this style of wine in the Jura. Do not serve too chilled (cellar temperature is fine), and enjoy over a few days to appreciate the flavours developing.

This is actually a blend of 50% Savagnin and 50% Chardonnay. It's a bit of a one off. A 'voile' (layer of flor yeast) did not develop over the Savagnin, which has been blended with Chardonnay that was aged sous voile. It was blended and bottled in 2013 and has continued to develope complex utty, citrus, and spiced notes, with a satin-like texture. Not to be missed.